Instructor`s manual
Contents
1. care and activating ingredients and artease peroxide care ingredients and peroxide initiates a series of processes that are fundamental for great hair color How it Works e Opening of the cuticle surface of hair e Absorption of the color molecule in the hair e Release of oxygen The release of oxygen initiates e Diffusion lightening of natural melanin e Oxidation and color deposit Note 100 results are achieved when using artease colors together with artease peroxide artease colors artease peroxide Color a Color pigment a even release of oxygen a Brilliance b Protecting cream base b Care ingredients b Even result c Ammonium hydroxide c Long lasting Ammonium hydroxide activates oxidation and opens cuticles 6 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 4 THE NUMBERING SYSTEM artease colors shades are identified through a number system Level System Level 2 Level 10 Level the lightness or darkness of a color All hair colors can be placed on a scale from 2 10 2 black the darkest 10 ultra light blond the lightest The artease colors numbering system is identified by 3 4 numbers The first number Level The second number Primary color direction The third number Secondary color direction The fourth number Intensity Placed in front of level number Second Number Primary Color Direction e g gold l First Number 7 37 Third Number Color Level2. emulsify Rinse till water runs clear 3 If desired follow with a light second shampoo Rinse and towel dry Use a shampoo for color treated hair 7 5 Follow Up Care Choose color save conditioner or color save treatments Do not use strong reconstructing deep conditioners right after color services 15 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 7 HOW TO USE 7 6 artease cream BLEACH Special size 500 g 17 63 oz artease cream BLEACH is a blonding paste with a specially developed shine protector for brilliant color results The cream is enriched with re structurizing protective oils suitable for all high lightening techniques easy to use Directions Use a non metallic bowl 1 part artease cream BLEACH 2 parts artease activator 1 9 7 vol or artease peroxide 3 10 vol 6 20 vol 9 30 vol 12 40 vol Depending on desired lift Mix to a creamy consistency and apply with desired technique Before applying toners gently shampoo and condition in order to neutralize the hair How to use Mixing ratio Development time Depending on desired lift 1 2 20 60 minutes use Check frequently 1 9 7 vol 3 10 vol No heat 6 20 vol 9 30 vol 12 40 vol Bleach wash 25g artease cream BLEACH 5 10 minutes 10ml shampoo Check frequently 50ml artease peroxide Note Because of the conditioning ingredients artease cream BLEACH is ideal for lighte
3. Mixing Ratio artease colors 1 1 1 part artease colors 1 part artease peroxide Ultra Lights 1 2 1 part artease colors Ultra Lights 2 parts artease peroxide Lightener 000 1 1 1 part artease colors 1 part artease peroxide Lightener 000 with Ultra Lights 1 1 2 1 part artease colors Ultra Lights 1 part Lightener 000 2 parts artease peroxide Special Toners 1 1 1 3 1 part artease colors Special Toners 1 part to 3 parts artease peroxide The entire artease colors product line is very easy to use but requires a disciplined work ethic Rest assured artease colors are dependable versatile and professional 13 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 7 HOW TO USE 7 2 Application e Section hair e Use mixed color immediately so that the oxidation can take place on the hair completely Pay special attention to the application All you need is careful attention to detail and care excellent results are guaranteed e Take thin sections e Apply thoroughly make sure all hair is covered e Exact measurements are essential e On tone on tone as well as darker colors apply to most resistant hair first i e temples front hair line e When lightening bleaching begin application where melanin concentration is greatest i e nape back of head 7 3 Development Time Development time varies according to desired color result see table Development time Result 30
4. to copper to gold to natural use a bleach wash to remove deeply deposited color pigments e Reflection change from gold red to ash pearl or vice versa e To remove all unwanted reflections Mixing ratio 1 scoop artease powder BLEACH 50ml artease activator 1 9 7 vol 10ml shampoo Development time is 5 10 minutes Application e Apply to parts that need to be changed e Emulsify and comb through work carefully observe development time e f undesired reflection is removed rinse carefully e Apply the desired shade Note Shampoo amp Condition hair between operations 25 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 8 GUIDELINES 8 11 Lightening Summary Target Type Development Application time Remove too much Bleach wash 5 10 minutes Emulsify color unwanted reflection 1 2 levels lighter Powder Bleach or 10 30 minutes Apply to mid Cream Bleach length and ends Activator first then to re 1 9 7 vol growth 3 4 levels lighter Powder Bleach 20 30 minutes Same as above Peroxide 6 20 vol or 9 30 vol 8 12 Darken Color Treated Hair If light colored hair is to be darkened additional color needs to be deposited Different methods are available depending on the condition of the hair and how many levels darker are desired This determines if a 1 step deposit or pre pigmentation filling and deposit is necessary Guidelines for color deposit Synthetic color pigments tha
5. 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 6 artease peroxide Highly stabilized peroxide Ph factor 2 5 to 3 5 In contrast to most oxidation emulsions artease peroxide releases oxygen gradually and consistently making artease peroxide extremely gentle to the hair structure Enriched with high quality waxes artease peroxide protects the hair structure during the chemical process enhancing the quality of the color Shiny vibrant and balanced hair color is the result Depending on the desired color result artease peroxide is available in four strength levels artease activator Mixing Ratio artease peroxide Degree of Lift artease colors 1 1 artease activator Tone on tone 1 9 7 vol 3 10 vol artease colors 1 1 6 20 vol 1 level artease colors 1 1 9 30 vol 2 levels artease colors 1 1 12 40 vol 3 levels artease colors 12 40 vol 4 levels 1 Ultra Lights 1 2 The following processes are the result of mixing artease peroxide with artease colors e Color development the color intermediaries oxidize color develops e Lightening Ammonia and peroxide release oxygen This causes a diffusion lightening of natural melanin in the hair Add 000 Lightener 12 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 7 HOW TO USE 7 1 Mixing artease colors Please note e Do not use metallic bowls cups etc e Use immediately after mixing e Use scales or measuring glass for exact quantities
6. Secondary Color Direction e g blonde artease colors e g Brown All colors are intermixable This provides an endless variation of colors Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 5 THE COLOR CHART The color chart aside from being an invaluable communication tool with clients is the ultimate support for the hairdresser to achieve the best color results level tone application formulation choice of peroxide strength Color Direction Natural 0 primary pigment blue Ideal to achieve depth in levels and improve gray coverage Ash 1 primary pigment gray green Ideal to neutralize unwanted red orange copper effects To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Intensive Ash 11 primary pigment green blue Ideal to neutralize intensive Gold yellow yellow effects To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Gold 3 primary pigment yellow Ideal to achieve natural gold tones To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Gold Brown 37 primary pigment yellow brown Ideal to achieve deep gold tones To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Red 4 primary pigment red orange Ideal to achieve copper red tones To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Copper Gold 43 primary pigment red orange yellow Ideal to achieve deep tones with red gold reflex To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Intensive Red 44 primar
7. a lift However the re growth area should not be longer than 1 inch If the re growth is longer even if the hair is lighter than level 5 pre lightening is required to achieve 4 levels of lift Mixing Ratio Up to 4 levels 1part artease colors Ultra Lights 2 parts artease peroxide 12 40 vol 1 2 4 levels or more Equal part artease colors Ultra Lights and Lightener 000 plus 2 parts artease peroxide 12 40 vol 1 1 2 8 8 Lightening Options Level of Lift Technique Peroxide Mixing Ratio 1 2 artease colors 6 20 vol 1 1 or 9 30 vol 3 artease colors 12 40 vol 1 1 up to 4 artease colors Ultra 12 40 vol 1 2 Lights up to 5 artease colors Ultra 12 40 vol 1 1 2 Lights Lightener 000 5 artease cream 12 40 vol 1 2 BLEACH up to 8 artease powder 6 20 vol 1 2 BLEACH or 9 30 vol 23 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 8 GUIDELINES 8 9 Lighten Color Treated Hair It is important to remember that color cannot lighten color To achieve a lighter color it is necessary to remove the existing color The removal eliminates the level and tone Always go 1 level lighter than target color Previously colored hair can be a lightened b change tone nuance c made darker deeper colors Lighter color requires de coloration i e remove existing color to reach desired result Step one de coloration step two toning 1 De coloration Please follow
8. ades 5 Ultra Lights 3 Special Toners 1 Lightener 000 4 Concentrates 5 Reflex Additives Mixtones 4 Boosters e Each shade delivers a predictable even color result when mixed with the exact amount of artease peroxide Mixing Ratio 1 1 1 part hair color 1 part artease activator 1 9 7 vol or 1 part artease peroxide 3 10 vol 6 20 vol 9 30 vol 12 40 vol Mixing Ratio Ultra Lights 1 2 1 part hair color 2 parts artease peroxide 9 30 vol or 12 40 vol Mixing Ratio Lightener 000 1 1 2 1 part Ultra Lights 1 part 000 2 parts 12 40 vol artease peroxide this achieves an additional level of lift Mix artease colors and artease peroxide for consistent perfect color results e Easy to use e Long lasting color results e 100 gray coverage Bleach and Lightner Assortment e artease cream BLEACH e artease powder BLEACH e artease color BLEACH e Fire Red e Copper Red e Copper Blonde e Copper Orange 5 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 3 THE SYSTEM artease colors system is the result of stringent quality controls The well balanced combination of artease colors ingredients makes formulating mixing and application simple creating a product that does not run or drip This multi dimensional professional product meets all the requirements of today s salons concerning reliability client satisfaction and profit The exact combination and mixing of artease colors pigments
9. colors USER S MANUAL colors CONTENTS PAGE 1 Hair Color and artease colors 3 2 artease colors Answers to All Questions 4 5 3 The System 6 4 Numbering System 7 5 The Color Chart 8 11 6 artease peroxide 12 7 How To Use 7 1 Mixing artease colors 14 7 2 Application 14 7 3 Development Time 14 7 4 Rinsing 15 7 5 Follow Up Care 15 7 6 artease cream BLEACH 16 7 7 artease powder BLEACH 17 7 8 artease color BLEACH 17 8 Guidelines 18 8 1 Covering Gray White Hair 19 8 2 Pre Pigmentation 19 8 3 Virgin Application 20 8 4 Tone on Tone and Darker Levels 21 8 5 Lightening 1 to 4 Levels 21 8 6 Lightening 4 or More Levels 22 8 7 Lightening with Ultra Lights 23 8 8 Lightening Options 23 8 9 Lighten Color Treated Hair 24 8 10 New Color Nuance 25 8 11 Lightening Summary 26 8 12 Darken Color Treated Hair 26 27 8 13 Guidelines to Deepen Darken Previously Colored Hair 27 Notes 28 31 2 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 1 HAIR COLOR AND ARTEASE COLORS Inspiration Individuality Creativity Throughout the ages hair has been an inspiration for men and women It is a major factor that positively influences activities charm and fascinations We love to change our appearance follow trends and events Business like and straight during the day sensual and sexy in the evening Freedom constant change lust for life the desire of wellness and beauty are the inspirations of the development of artease color
10. cream BLEACH up to 5 levels of lift artease powder BLEACH up to 8 levels of lift First phase pre lightening Mixing ratio 1 2 1 part artease powder BLEACH 2 parts artease peroxide 3 10 vol 6 20 vol or artease activator 1 9 7 vol Development time is 20 35 minutes depending on desired lift Follow these steps short and medium length hair only steps 2 and 3 1 Application to ends Development time 15 minutes 2 Application to mid length and ends Development time 15 minutes 3 Application to re growth mid length and ends Development time is 20 30 minutes Important Lighten hair half level lighter melanin residue than desired color Second Phase Pastel Coloration Carefully apply artease colors or artease colors Special Toners artease activator 1 9 7 vol mixing ratio 1 1 from re growth to ends Note Use mixing ratio 1 3 if hair is chemically sensitized This mixing ratio reduces the pigment concentration and counteracts the increased absorption level of the hair 22 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 8 GUIDELINES 8 7 Lightening with Ultra Lights artease colors Ultra Lights is artease colors one step high lift series If the natural level is not darker than light brown 5 0 Ultra Lights can be applied to re growth area It achieves up to 4 levels of lift If the natural level is darker or additional lift is needed adding Lightener 000 can bring up to 1 level of extr
11. es listed in the table above Copper with copper red with red and mahogany 8 13 Guidelines to deepen darken previously colored hair Levels Normal hair Fine sensitized hair 1 level darker Apply arte ase colors to re growth 2 levels darker approx 20 minutes then apply to mid length and ends 10 15 minutes Apply artease colors to re growth Moisten ends before applying color darker 3 4 levels Color deposit with artease colors 1 2 1 part color 2 parts artease activator 1 9 7 vol Color deposit to desired level mixing ratio 1 3 1 part artease colors 3 parts artease activator 1 9 7 vol 27 Revised on October 27 2008 NOTES 28 colors USER S MANUAL Revised on October 27 2008 NOTES 29 colors USER S MANUAL Revised on October 27 2008 NOTES 30 colors USER S MANUAL Revised on October 27 2008 NOTES 31 colors USER S MANUAL Revised on October 27 2008
12. igment brown brown Ideal to achieve rich natural brown tones To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Blue 8 primary pigment blue Ideal to achieve deepest black tones 9 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 5 THE COLOR CHART Ultra Lights Ideal to lift up to four levels Ultra Light Blonde 12 0 Ultra Light Ash Blonde 12 1 Ultra Light Ash Intensive Blonde 12 11 Ultra Light Golden Blonde 12 3 Ultra Light Blonde Brown 12 7 Mixing Ratio Ultra Lights 1 2 with 9 30 vol 12 40 vol artease peroxide Development Time 45 60 minutes always check Special Toners Silver 12 81 primary pigment blue ash Ideal to achieve silver tones on pre lightened hair Pearl 12 88 primary pigment blue Ideal to achieve pearl tones on pre lightened hair Centre 12 89 primary pigment blue gray Ideal to use for extra drabbing effect on pre lightened hair Mixing Ratio 1 part Special Toner to 1 1 to 1 3 7 vol 3 artease activator or 10 vol artease peroxide Development Time Varies depending upon intensity 5 minutes 15 minutes Note watch carefully Reflex Additives Mixtones Can be added to every shade to enhance the nuance of the shade The color appears brighter and has more brilliance Mixing Ratio 1 part mixtone 5 parts color Case study 10g 0 66 50g 3 6 60ml 6 20 vol 9 30 vol 12 40 vol or 120ml 1 9 7 vol or 3 10 vol for demi permanent color Importa
13. minutes 100 gray coverage tone on tone darker 100 gray coverage Lightening 1 2 levels 100 gray coverage Lightening 2 3 levels 100 gray coverage Lightening 3 4 levels 30 40 minutes 30 45 minutes 30 50 minutes 20 minutes Demi permanent coloring Development time can be shortened up to 50 when using color processors Rollerball Klimazone etc To avoid scalp irritation heat is not recommended when using Ultra Lights The effects of insufficient development time e Color may fade quicker e Coverage of gray hair may be too translucent e Target level of lightening may not be achieved e Underlying warmth may be left exposed when lightening or toning 14 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 7 HOW TO USE 7 4 Rinsing Rinsing of color is of great importance and should be done with great care in order to avoid e Unwanted staining of hair highlights dimensional coloring e Color residue on scalp and hair e Scalp skin irritations The following steps are recommended 1 Gently emulsify color and remove from hairline Do not massage scalp vigorously artease colors contains cleansing agents that help to remove the color from hairline and scalp Do not add water at this point this would dilute the effectiveness of the cleansing agent It would become more difficult to clean hairline and scalp 2 As soon as color residue is removed from hairline and scalp add water and
14. monia content is one of the lowest of all the color products available Mix artease colors cream color which consists of 92 natural extracts with artease peroxide The result is a creamy easy to apply hair color that delivers healthy silky shiny hair artease colors is a permanent and demi permanent cream hair color of the highest quality with the latest technological developments that satisfies the highest demands e Extremely mild and gentle G Even color results 100 gray coverage Predictable and long lasting color results Thanks to a great palette of brilliant and true Natural Tones artease colors is a multi faceted product Natural Hair Lightening with artease colors e 3 levels lift with artease colors base colors e 4 levels lift with Ultra Lights 12 0 12 1 12 11 12 3 12 7 e 5 levels lift with Ultra Lights plus Lightener 000 e 4 6 levels lift with artease cream BLEACH e 8 levels lift with artease powder BLEACH Silky Shine complex is unique ensuring great comb ability and shine KUPPLER color pigments Color affecting materials in oxydation coloration They connect themselves with the developer molecules and thereby nuance the color of the pigment The pigments do not dissolve like sugar in liquids but adhere and stretch out 4 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 1 ANSWERS TO ALL QUESTIONS Mixing and Application artease colors e One tube of artease colors contains 60 ml e 63 sh
15. ms can arise In addition if hair is longer than 2 inches the color may be lighter in the re growth area compared to the mid length and the ends artease colors solves these problems by formulating color with a higher level of peroxide for mid length and ends and a lower level of peroxide for the re growth area Correct lightening of all parts of the hair is determined by e Desired artease colors shade selected e Natural level e Determine peroxide strength The difference between natural level and target color is dictated in large part by peroxide strength 6 20 vol 9 30 vol and 12 40 vol Application to mid length and ends e Mix artease colors selected shade with higher volume artease peroxide then selected for the re growth area i e if 9 30 vol is selected for re growth use 12 40 vol for mid length and ends e Development time 30 50 minutes wW Application to re growth area e Mix artease colors selected shade with artease peroxide according to desired level of lift e Development time 35 50 minutes depending on desired lift 21 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 8 GUIDELINES 8 6 Lightening 4 or More Levels Lightening of 4 or more levels requires achieving the desired level of lightness first Only then can the desired depth and color reflection be obtained Operations involve pre lighten and pastel toning artease colors offers the following products artease
16. ning chemically stressed hair Caution Avoid contact with eyes If contact occurs thoroughly rinse with water Do not use to bleach eyelashes or eyebrows Always close lid Keep out of reach of children 16 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 7 HOW TO USE 7 7 artease powder BLEACH Suitable for all lightening techniques highlights overall blonding and lightening Up to 8 levels of lift Mixing Ratio is variable from 1 1 to 1 2 Note artease activator 1 9 7 vol is for a very gentle bleaching process Bleaching action is very fast A little goes a long way No heat Special ingredients Silica protects and nourishes the scalp 7 8 artease color BLEACH Is available in the following nuances Fire Red Copper Red Copper Blond and Copper Orange One step lightening and pigmenting For high lights and dimensional color only Recommended for dark or black tinted or natural levels Not recommended for gray white or bleached hair Up to 6 levels of lift Mixing Ratio 1 2 Note Extreme brilliance and long lasting when mixed with artease activator 1 9 7 vol 5 20 minutes Note Check frequently no heat 17 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 8 GUIDELINES To always have a successful color experience and avoid mistakes it is essential to follow these guidelines 6 Steps To Perfect Color Formulation Determine the natural level Determine the desired level Dete
17. nt Mixtones require peroxide and have to be included in the formulation 10 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 5 THE COLOR CHART Boosters Enhance the nuance and can be added to every shade Fashion shades appear deeper and richer Mixing ratio 1part booster 5 parts fashion shade Case study 10g 034 50g 9 34 50ml 6 20 vol 9 30 vol or 12 40 vol demi color add 100ml 1 9 7 vol or 3 10 vol Important No additional peroxide needs to be added Concentrates Correctors Used to correct unwanted color results and are predominantly mixed with Natural shades 001 gt corrects copper and red color directions 003 gt corrects violet color directions 004 gt corrects green color directions 006 gt corrects golden color directions Mixing Ratio 1 part Corrector 5 parts Natural shade Case study 10g 003 50g 9 0 60ml 1 9 7 vol or 3 10 vol Important Concentrates require peroxide and have to be included in the formulation 4 6 Lightener 000 Has the highest ammonia content of all artease colors Lightener 000 can be added to any shade The shade will be between 1 2 to one levels lighter Mixing Ratio 1 part 000 1 part fashion or natural shade Case Study 30 g 000 30g 12 0 120 ml 9 30 vol or 12 40 vol Note For soft diffusion of natural hair mix 1 part 000 2 parts artease peroxide 6 20 vol or 9 30 vol This gives a natural lightening effect 11 Revised on October 27
18. res and hair structures need to be factored in 1 The surface temperature on the ends is lower Temperature at the root area is approx 96 degrees and decreases towards the ends where the temperature is only approx 68 72 degrees 2 Hair mostly consists of keratin The keratin structure in mid length and ends is harder As the basic substance it is layered and forms the hair structure This structure if not influenced by outside forces in the mid length and ends is much more resistant to effects of chemical products This can create problems since the color product reacts differently to different temperatures and hair structures than it is designed to do This results in an uneven color result the root area is always lighter or brighter the ends always darker or duller Various option of virgin application is available e Tone on tone or darker color e Lighten 1 to 4 levels e Lighten 4 or more levels with Ultra Lights Lightener 000 artease cream BLEACH artease powder BLEACH 20 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 8 GUIDELINES 8 4 Tone on Tone and Darker Levels Determine desired level and choose peroxide strength Mix artease colors with artease peroxide 1 9 7 vol 3 10 vol and apply immediately from re growth to ends Develop for 20 30 minutes rinse and use after color 8 5 Lightening 1 to 4 Levels When hair is lightened more than one level chemically and or physically proble
19. rmine the color direction Determine the of gray white hair Determine the texture of the hair i e fine medium or coarse Determine what hair needs to be lightened or darkened The following questions also need to be determined What is the darkest level of the clients hair to achieve the desired depth of color Can the desired level be reached What level and tone can be achieved in one color process or are other methods needed i e bleaching color removal pre pigmenting etc The existing hair color or lack of it is the single most important factor influencing the outcome of the color result regardless of the method used Choices are Color hair darker Maintain level and tone Lighten hair Most common services are 18 Covering gray hair Change natural hair color Change color of previously colored hair Change color reflex Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 8 GUIDELINES 8 1 Covering Gray White Hair People change their hair color for various reasons One of the main reasons is to maintain a youthful appearance The desire to cover gray hair is paramount artease colors Natural and Natural Plus series are specifically designed to cover gray white hair to the desired level By adding Reflex Additives Mixtones desired reflections can be achieved For correct results it is necessary to Determine the desired level and tone Determine the of gray white hair Mix artease colo
20. rs Natural series with the desired Reflex Additive Determine peroxide strength Depending on the desired result gray blending lift and deposit or deposit only 1 9 7 vol 3 10 vol 6 20 vol 9 30 vol is used Mixing ratio of Natural and Natural Plus series and Reflex Additive is determined by the of gray hair By adding more Reflex Additive the color result will be brighter and the desired reflex more visible Increase the amount of the Natural series to achieve a deeper tone regardless of level Attention Consider gray white in temple and hairline areas 8 2 Pre Pigmentation Pre pigmentation can be used on very resistant gray white hair Pre pigmentation has two predominant functions e Pre softening of cuticle e Color pigments are deposited on hair resulting in a light stain Take a small amount of color do not add peroxide one to two levels lighter than desired level and apply to resistant hair Avoid contact with skin Let sit for 10 minutes do not rinse out Apply desired color formulation to hair artease colors 3 43 46 73 75 77 are especially suitable for pre pigmentation 19 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 8 GUIDELINES 8 3 Virgin Application Three steps are vital to consider when formulating color for the first time e Natural level e Desired level e Length of hair The hair length is easily underestimated especially when lightening hair Different textu
21. s artease colors distributes only products of the highest quality and to the latest technical standards to meet the demands of the professional hairdresser and colorist The professional hairdresser and colorist has to be able to meet the demands of a descriminating clientele concerning quality result health and safety artease colors responsibility is to transmit fundamentaly sound information These statements are made by a technically developed and experienced company artease colors is committed to scientifically sound research The information in this book is based on these principles 3 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 2 ANSWERS TO ALL QUESTIONS artease colors an exceptional product of the highest quality artease colors meets the highest expectations thanks to it s unique Three Wheat Protein formulation The three proteins differ in size making the color and lightening processes exceptionaly gentle to the hair This enables artease colors to penetrate the hair structure more effectively resulting in healthy beautiful hair Even chemically sensitized hair has a soft satin sheen artease colors guarantees brilliant and natural looking colors thanks to the high quality and purity of its ingredients Natural Tones do not have a green sheen A combination of selected long lasting KUPPLER color pigments 99 unoxidized cover gray white hair up to 100 Very predictable color results The am
22. t have faded either through natural or chemical sun bleaching influences need to be replaced It is recommended to select warm tones gold copper red The intensity varies case by case usually 1 or 2 levels lighter The intensity of gold copper red tones are determined by the target color which is influenced by the weakness of the hair and the existing hair color pigments Examples of color deposits 1 pre pigmentation fillers 2 color deposit after re growth touch up 3 color refreshing emulsifying 5 minutes before the end of the development time deposit of natural shades on pre lightened hair x n wm 4 26 Revised on October 27 2008 8 GUIDELINES colors 8 12 Darken Color Treated Hair continued Step 1 USER S MANUAL Up to 4 levels darker no filler is necessary More than 4 levels select the correct color deposit to achieve natural results Suggested Fillers Mixed at 1 2 1 3 with artease activator 1 9 7 vol Desired Level Very light blonde Platinum Black 2 Medium brown 4 5 37 5 37 Light brown 5 6 0 plus 034 Booster 6 0 plus 034 Booster 6 0 plus 034 Booster 6 0 plus 034 Booster Dark blonde 6 8 3 8 3 Medium blonde 7 8 3 8 3 Light blonde 8 9 3 Step 2 Apply desired color formulation with artease activator 1 9 7 vol 1 1 1 3 To achieve results with red copper and mahogany reflections substitute the ton
23. these steps short and medium length hair step 1 2 and 1 3 only 1 1 Application on ends development time 15 minutes 1 2 Application on mid length and ends development time 15 minutes 1 3 Application on roots mid length and ends development time 20 30 minutes Two products to choose from artease cream BLEACH gentle cream up to 5 levels of lift artease powder BLEACH excellent for de colorization 5 levels Important Lighten hair half level lighter melanin residue than desired color 2 Toning Apply the desired artease colors shade mixed 1 1 with artease activator 1 9 7 vol carefully from re growth area to ends Note Use mixing ratio 1 2 if hair has been chemically sensitized This mixing ratio reduces the pigment concentration and counteracts the increased absorption level of the hair 24 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 8 GUIDELINES 8 10 New Color Nuance A change of shade poses a challenge to the most professional colorists If the color reflection should change without influencing the color depth it is important to determine if a color can be applied directly or if de colorization i e bleach wash is necessary a Direct application Warm reflections can be intensified e From natural to gold copper red violet red e From gold to copper red violet red e From copper to red violet red b Application after bleach wash indirect If a less intensive tone is desired from red
24. y pigment red orange red Ideal to achieve very intensive copper tones with a lively red reflex To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Red Mahogany 45 primary pigment red Ideal to achieve cool reds To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones 8 Revised on October 27 2008 colors USER S MANUAL 5 THE COLOR CHART Red Violet 46 primary pigment red violet Ideal to achieve cool reds To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Red Brown 47 primary pigment red brown Ideal to achieve cool reds To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Intensive Mahogany 55 primary pigment red red Ideal to achieve very intense mahogany tones with a lively reflex To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Violet 6 primary pigment blue red Ideal to achieve deep cool violets Violet Mahogany 65 primary pigment violet red Ideal to achieve deep violet tones To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Brown 7 primary pigment brown Ideal to achieve natural beige brown tones To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Brown Gold 73 primary pigment brown yellow Ideal to achieve natural gold brown tones To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Brown Mahogany 75 primary pigment brown red Ideal to achieve natural cool brown tones To improve gray coverage mix with Natural Tones Intensive Brown 77 primary p
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