Super Jacket - PatternMaker
Contents
1. I 00 N O jo gt Oo Oo Straight line not along the outside hip curve Crotch depth can also be measured from a pair of old well fitting pants Crotch depth is the difference between outside and inside length of pants Desired cuff circumference not ankle circumference Desired jacket length from waist elastic to hem Desired skirt dress length from waist elastic to hem Important things to be taken into consideration when measuring The most important measurements are the ones written in on the measuring chart in BOLD CAPITAL LETTERS waist height back length back width and pants crotch depth If one of these four measurements is wrong the result may be a distorted pattern and it is difficult to figure what measurement is wrong If some other measurement is wrong you get either a too tight or a too loose garment and you can easily see what measurement to correct and to what direction A N Figure 3 normal Figure 2 back width Figure 1 waist height back length sloper wrong wrong Normally the pattern for basic sloper is more or less like Figure 1 Front and back shoulders slope downwards to shoulder tip Armscyes curve inward Back armscye can be rather straight but should never bulge outward If the pattern is like in Figure 2 i e front armscye curves strongly inward a and back armscye bulges outward b back width has been measured wrong and is too much Measure back width anew Please note that this m2. PataenMake Software Women s SuperJacket Dress Collection Designer Leena Lahteenmaki AIH SIR na m Lo Det TiN TETEA INTRODUCTION Welcome to the PatternMaker SuperJacket Dress Collection By mixing and matching combinations of necklines pockets lapels sleeves and lengths you can create over 1000 different garments With the extensive selection of options available you can easily create anything from a breezy summer windbreaker to an elegant evening gown to an ankle length raincoat TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS POP Me SUPE SEULES collection you will need several of the same measurements as for Neck circ other PatternMaker macros Use Bust Span Bust circ Bust Height the standard measuring chart and instructions that are included with Waist circ Waist Height this macro package The Abdomen clrc Back Length illustration at the right shows the first of two measurements dialog boxes Hip circ Back Width RUNNING A MACRO When you first start the PatternMaker program you will see a blank drawing area To run the SuperJacket Dress macro select the MACRO command from the File menu or click on the icon which has the word MAC Users of PatternMaker Basic should select OPEN from the File menu or click the OPEN icon PatternMaker Software and Leena Lahteenmaki SuperJacket Dress Collecion Rev 1 00 SuperJacket Dress Collection A dialog box will ask you to select a file Each macro is a separ
3. ate file in your PatternMaker directory The SuperJacket Dress macro is called SUPERJKT MAC Click on the name of the file and then click OK It may take a few seconds for PatternMaker to load the macro You will now see a series of dialog boxes which ask questions and offer choices To continue through the macro you must use your mouse to click on one of the options If you click Cancel or if you click OK without making a selection the macro will abort and you will be returned to the drawing screen Also be aware that you cannot move backwards through the options You may wish to write down which options you choose THE DIALOG BOXES First you will select how much ease you want in your garment There are 10 ease categories from close fitting underwear to a loose fitting overcoat The next dialog box asks you to choose a collar neckline style Choose one of the following tailored collar tailored collar round shawl collar tuxedo convertible collar mandarin collar jewel neckline raised neck v shape asymmetrical front All the garments in this collection have princess seams The next dialog box gives you the choice of drawing the seams to the armscye or to the shoulder Work your way through the dialog boxes making your choices for e sleeve style one piece two piece short e shoulder pads no shoulder pads e pocket style patch welt buttonhole round flap rectangular flap none HGR TST Then depending on the optio
4. easuring error causes the garment to be too loose at back and too tight at front Therefore the situation cannot be corrected by only reducing width of back piece The pattern must be redrawn using the correct back width measurement If waist height in relation to back length is wrong refer to Figure 3 the result is either a shoulder that slopes to wrong direction a or a shoulder which is too steep b If you measure waist height as instructed in PatternMaker measuring instructions i e double around back neck and divide the result by 2 there seldom is any error in waist height Therefore the error usually is in back length If shoulder slopes in wrong direction a back length is too much and if shoulder is too steep b back length is too little Change back length 2 3 cm in the needed direction and see if it is enough to correct the situation If it looks good you see to which point at neck back length has to be measured to be OK lf the subject stands in a very upright military position with bust out and abdomen in also waist height may be too much Please make sure that the subject stands in a relaxed position when she is being measured In some cases a steep shoulder may be due to the subject s body shape This is the case if the subject has a very prominent bust And conversely if a subject has a very flat bust and or a very round back the shoulder can be rather Straight Thus there are cases where the patterns are all right eve
5. n if they look odd When the patterns are drawn according to a person s own measurements they should not be compared with patterns drawn according to normal or average measurements If you are not sure of the measurements taken you have a very good and simple way to check them sew a muslin with the basic bodice patterns If it fits on the subject you can be sure that all other garments sewn with PatternMaker macros will fit well If you get an error message value out of range in line coord 32 33 sqrt op op oke oke oke it means the measuring error is so drastic that the program is unable to draw the patterns at all Front shoulder does not meet armscye line Then either back length is too little or waist height too much It may also be that shoulder length has some influence shoulder length may be too short Also in some other cases there may be reason for checking shoulder length measurement If shoulder is too short there will be a corner inward where front and back shoulder meet at shoulder tip and vice versa
6. ns you have chosen you will see further dialog boxes for any or all of the following pocket direction straight slant breast pocket style same as above lapel height bust mid waist bust waist single breasted double breasted Regardless of which garment you have selected the macro will ask you whether the pattern pieces should be printed with seam allowances or not and whether you want to use inches or centimeters for your measurements Use your mouse or arrow keys to select your choices SuperJacket Dress Collection After you have made your choices a dialog box will ask you for the measurements Fill these in from your measurement chart Note the field called Jacket Length is referring to the desired length of your garment from the waist You can enter any number including O if you want a jacket that ends at your waist Remember to use decimal numbers so 8 3 4 inches is 8 75 inches and so forth Be careful to enter the right numbers in the right spaces When you are ready click OK or press the Enter key You may have to wait for the macro to run especially if you do not have a fast computer You will know the macro is done when the hourglass cursor changes back to an arrow and the word Command appears on the prompt line If you cannot see the pattern or if you only see part of it press the lt END gt key on your keyboard Note Refer to the PatternMaker User s Manual for instructions on running the
7. program and printing the pattern pieces SEWING THE JACKETS Sewing instructions for this collection are not available at this time If you are unfamiliar with the necessary techniques for sewing these jackets you may wish to refer to additional sewing reference material PattanVieker Software Measuring for Women s Macros 1 neck circumference Measure bust height 7 and waist height 2 bust circumference 8 around neck double and divide by 2 3 waist circumference 4 abdomen circumference 5 hip circumference 6 bust span 7 bust height 8 waist height 9 back length 10 back width 11 shoulder 12 waist abdomen 13 waist hip 14 biceps 15 wrist circumference 16 overarm 17 outside seam 18 crotch depth Following are the instructions on how to measure for PatternMaker women s macros Don t try to take the measurements yourself Ask someone else to take them Stand straight but relaxed when you are being measured You will receive the best results if the measurements are taken over underwear Set 1 inch wide elastic bands around your waist and hip Search carefully for the correct places of these elastic bands Keep these elastic bands on their places during the whole measuring process Hip elastic is fastened on the level where hip circumference is maximum Examine whether it is on your buttocks 7 8 inches 18 20 cm below the waist or on top of your thighs 10 12 inches 25 30 cm below the waist Meas
8. t as a link around neck double and divide the result by 2 see picture BACK LENGTH Measure from center of back neck to lower edge of waist elastic BACK WIDTH hang your arms relaxed on your sides The measurement is taken horizontally between shoulder blades i e from sleeve seam to sleeve seam from and to the point where your arm meets your body but not to armpit about 4 10 cms from neck downwards Shoulder length Measure from neck to shoulder tip Shoulder tip is found when you raise your arm to horizontal position and feel where there is hollow pit between shoulder and arm bones Hold your arm horizontal if necessary to find this point 2 Waist Abdomen Measure vertically from lower edge of waist elastic to lower edge of abdomen elastic Measure at front center Waist Hip Measure vertically from lower edge of waist elastic to lower edge of hip elastic Measure at the side Biceps circumference Measure at widest point of upper arm Wrist circumference Measure over wrist bone Overarm Arm length from shoulder tip as described above to wrist Bend arm slightly and measure over outside of elbow Outside seam Measure from waist over the outside curvature of the hip to the desired cuff length CROTCH DEPTH Sit on unpadded bench or chair Measure vertically from waist elastic to chair level on both sides and use the longer measurement Measure in a _h a e a a N or A D
9. urements are taken from the bottoms of the bands Except for pants cuff circumference and skirt dress length all measurements are body measurements DO NOT ADD ANY EASE to the measurements The program does it for you DO NOT TIGHTEN MEASURING TAPE Please refer to the picture related to this measuring form BE ESPECIALLY CAREFUL WHEN TAKING THE MEASUREMENTS WRITTEN IN CAPITAL LETTERS They are crucial for good fitting patterns After having taken all the measurements take these important measurements once again You can use either centimeters or inches Give inches in fractions PattarMaker Sditware Women s Measuring Chart Name Date Neck Circumference Measure around lowest part of neck at the base Bust Circumference Marked with elastic Measure around the fullest part of the bust keeping the tape high at the back Waist Circumference Measure waist at the elastic tape Abdomen Circumference Measured on the level where abdomen circumference is maximum Hip Circumference Measured over the largest part of your bottom thighs at elastic Bust Span Horizontal distance between bust apexes also called bust bridge Measured along bust elastic Bust Height Measure from center of back neck over shoulder to apex of one breast WAIST HEIGHT Measure from center of back neck over shoulder to breast apex and from there vertically to lower edge of waist elastic To be sure to get right measurements take this and bust heigh
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