La Casetta - a User`s Manual
Contents
1. and chocolates Honey Local honey is one of the area s specialities and includes the produce from our own hives In local food shops look for honey from Catria e Nerone produced by Fausto Feligioni who looks after our hives SHOPPING Conad is a well stocked supermarket that is open daily even at lunchtime and also on Sunday mornings you will see its distinctive black glass building just outside Cagli on the left heading in the Fano direction Opening hours for all other shops are generally from 8 30 am to 1pm and from 4 30 until 7 30pm All food shops except the above Conad close on Thursday afternoon while non food shops tend to be closed on Monday mornings In most of the town s supermarkets the food is on the shelves for you to help yourself except for the delicatessen counter where you also need to ask for bread When ordering from the counter most things are sold in units of etti un etto due etti one etto 100 grams or slightly less than a quarter pound For small quantities it is common to use a half etto un mezz etto The following wordlist may be of use see also our menu amp shopping translator in this manual cheese formaggio pecorino nostrano ewe s milk cheese local parmigiano gratuggiato parmesan cheese freshly grated milk full semi skimmed latte intero parzialmente scremato fresh cream panna fresca there is no single or double cream all panna fresca2. DENTISTS If you have medical or dental problems during your stay we can put you in contact with a local doctor and dentist European Union guests can claim back the cost of treatment but this is not always easy unless treatment is going to be costly it is much simpler and not expensive to see the doctor as a paying private patient Cagli hospital has an excellent 24 hour casualty department look for the red Primo Intervento sign by the first set of traffic lights as you arrive from Fano A number of our guests have had minor problems solved there without difficulty PHARMACIES There are two pharmacies in Cagli one in the main square and one just off by the Duomo between them they run a duty pharmacist rota with Sunday and holiday opening EMERGENCIES In emergencies dial 112 for the police 115 for the fire brigade or 118 for an ambulance These numbers must clearly only be used in a real emergency OPENING TIMES Pergola Bronzi Dorati 10 00 12 30 and 15 30 18 30 closed Mondays July amp August 10 00 12 30 and 5 30 19 00 open every day Fonte Avellana Monastery Guided tours inside the monastery Monday to Saturday on the hour 10 00 11 00 15 00 16 00 17 00 Sunday and feast days every 30 minutes from 10 30 to 12 00 and 15 00 to 17 30 Urbino Palazzo Ducale Mondays 8 30 14 00 last entry at 12 30 From Tuesday to Sunday 8 30 19 15 last entry at 18 00 Closed Christmas amp N
3. order with smaller signs marking each 100 metres using Roman numerals Our turning is after the 50 kilometre sign and immediately after the 50 km 200 metre smaller one If all this sounds incomprehensible the picture below shows the junction with the sign to look out for as an inset If you are using GPS you may find that strada Santa Barbara is not listed the co ordinates for San Cristoforo are North 43 32 48 East 12 42 23 EATING OUT Here are a few of our suggestions do tell us about your own restaurant discoveries Note that smoking is prohibited in all restaurants and bars unless they have a separate room for smokers or an outdoor eating area Few of these places require booking in advance those that do are mentioned below The nearest place is Le Fontane closed Mon the restaurant on the left on the road from San Cristoforo towards Cagli a feasible walk on a warm evening It has an attractive terrace and a wide menu It also has a wood oven producing good pizza in the evenings Alternatively a short drive up to Frontone the village with the medieval castle that you can see directly in front of San Cristoforo gives you a choice of a number of restaurants Down below in the modern part of town Hotel Daino closed Mon looks uninviting from outside but is well known for its traditional local cookery Good wine list reasonable prices and attentive service Best of all is the grilled kid or capretto for
4. La Casetta San Cristoforo A user s manual 2015 House notes Shopping amp banks Beaches amp swimming Medical Opening times Transport amp directions Eating out Menu translator 50 ways to pass the time History of San Cristoforo Walk this way 2 to 5 6 to 8 10 11 to 12 13 to 14 15 to 16 17 to 18 19 to 20 21 www sancristoforo info HOUSE NOTES BOOKS amp MUSIC You are welcome to borrow books and CDs from our large library just ask when you want to browse There is a CD player in La Casetta if you bring your iPod iPad or other device we can provide you with a cable link to the stereo system BREAKAGES amp THINGS THAT DON T WORK If anything breaks during your stay please let us know as soon as possible so that we can replace it speedily for you Please also tell us if light bulbs go drains block or anything else doesn t work so we can put it right CLEANING If you are staying for more than a week we will change your bed linen and towels at a time which suits you You might like to know that we use a range of organic fair trade low allergy seriously cleaning products in La Casetta COFFEE MOKA MACHINE The moka espresso coffee pot is easy to use It unscrews into three parts Fill the lowest part with water up to the safety valve Drop the coffee container in and fill it with coffee without pressing it down Then screw the top back on and put on a low flame As the water b
5. Lupo closed Mon excellent traditional Umbrian fare but at rather higher prices but then you are in Umbria rather than the Marche There are a host of places in Urbino but nothing that really stands out We often make for Tre Piante closed Mon on the edge of town but really just for the pretty summer terrace and Taverna degli Artisti closed Tues just up from the botanic gardens and with a frescoed dining room both everyday places with reasonable prices Opposite the entrance to the Palazzo Ducale is Il Cortegiano which has both light snacks and a proper restaurant and an appealing outdoor courtyard in summer 14 OUR MENU amp FOOD SHOPPING TRANSLATOR Items with an asterisk are Le Marche specialities aceto vinegar affettato sliced cured pork meats aglio garlic agnello lamb anatra duck anguilla eel antipasto hors d ouvres arrabbiata spicy angry pasta sauce arrosto roast asparaghi asparagus baccala salt cod basilico basil in bianco white ie dish without tomato bietola chard bistecca maiale manzo steak pork beef bollito boiled alla brace cooked over embers braciola chop usually of pork branzino sea bass brodetto Marche fish stew in brodo in broth bruschetta toasted bread with oil amp garlic burro butter cacciagione game alla cacciatore with sweet pepper and tomato calamari squid cappelletti in brodo hats of stuffed
6. ard Dixon and Peter Greene bought San Cristoforo in 1988 and over the next 16 years carried out the slow restoration of the whole complex The chapel in 1988 SA of Stone Age fi ni and Otigin chee is D Probable site of 1934 discovery of 3rd C BC tombs n 20 gt FAZEI TRI ol y meli se ent 7 rote ni Po RITO eae 3 ye gt x AI i N 5 Il Castello X ge te Sa ie ice A CEdenani A local walk to Frontone around 1hr 30mins Beware of mud if it has rained recently 21
7. e baccala tacchino turkey tartufo tartufato truffle flavoured with truffles tiramisu sweet with eggs sponge and mascarpone cheese tonno tuna tortellini stuffed pasta rings triglia red mullet trippa tripe trota trout UOVO eggs verdura cotta green vegetables cooked vincisgrassi Marche version of lasagne vitello calf or veal vongole baby clams zucchini courgettes Fifty ways to pass the time at San Cristoforo 1 See some of Europe s most dramatic caves at the Grotte di Frasassi 2 Discover that Rimini isn t all sun n sand package tourists the old centre boasts Roman remains one of Italy s most celebrated Renaissance buildings and the chicest designer stores Feast on snails at the annual snail festival in June at Pianello near Cagli Swim in the bracing mountain torrents at Cagli in the July amp August heat Join Italian families on the beach at Fano and wave at the trains as they pass Spot the portrait of the young Raphael in the splendid fresco by his father Giovanni Santi in Cagli s San Domenico church Walk the mountain meadows above San Cristoforo with a handbook to alpine flora in May or June when the wild flowers dare you to step on them 8 Buy smart shoes at low prices at Cagli s Wednesday market the Marche region makes a large part of Italy s shoes so it s a good place to pick up bargains 9 Pick up knock down fashion at the Union Moda factory outlet s
8. en broken down on a main road Diesel gasolio and LPG GPL in Italian are both freely available in the area and there is a methane metano station at Acqualagna Although petrol stations are closed for a long lunch break and all day Sunday you can buy petrol as long as you have some crisp Euro notes from the 24 hour machines in the forecourt of both petrol stations in Cagli RAILWAY STATIONS The nearest station on the Milano Bari main east coast line is Fano though some faster trains only stop at nearby Pesaro For trains on the Ancona Rome line see also Buses above drive to Fossato di Vico near Fabriano 45 minutes south of Cagli along the via Flaminia Full Italian train timetables in English are available on www trenitalia com DIRECTIONS BY CAR TO SAN CRISTOFORO If coming from the north or south take the A14 autostrada toll motorway on the Adriatic coast Exit at FANO and follow signs for ROMA and AREZZO onto the dual carriageway Just after the town of FOSSOMBRONE the road divides Do not take the turning for Urbino but bear right on the slip road following signs for ROMA and AREZZO You soon pass through a 3 km tunnel that by passes the Furlo Gorge Leave the main road at the CAGLI EST exit and follow the road for a couple of kilometres skirting the old town to your right as far as the town s only traffic lights actually there is another set just before by the hospital but they don t really count At the lights
9. ew Year s Day Casa Raffaello Urbino From 1 November to 28 February Monday to Saturday 09 00 14 00 Sunday and holidays 10 00 13 00 From 1 March to 31 October Monday to Saturday 09 00 13 00 and 15 00 19 00 Sunday and holidays 10 00 13 00 Closed Christmas amp New Year s Day Oratorio of San Giovanni Urbino Winter every day from 10 00 to 13 00 Summer weekdays 10 00 12 30 and 15 00 17 30 holidays 10 00 12 30 Closed Christmas amp New Year s Day TRANSPORT AND DIRECTIONS Guests should be aware that a car is essential at San Cristoforo although our own town of Cagli is only 5 kilometres or 3 miles away BUSES There is a daily service to Rome which might tempt you It leaves Cagli at 7 00am arriving in Rome at 10 30 It leaves Rome at 5 45p m bringing you back to Cagli at around 9pm This leaves you with a rather brief 7 hours to see the sights of one of the world s most historic cities Alternatively you might feel tempted to stay for a night and come back the following day Other bus services to and from Cagli connect local towns and tend only to coincide with school hours CAR Remember you must have your driving licence insurance and car registration documents with you when you re driving spot checks are common Italian law also requires you to keep your dipped headlights on during daylight while driving on all main roads and to wear a fluorescent waistcoat if you get out of your car wh
10. he region s most important labels Otherwise Conad sells popular if rather industrial Italian wines The region s best known wine is white Verdicchio available in two types Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica the latter is rarer but often rather better The most celebrated red is Rosso Conero which ranges from fairly cheap and cheerful versions up to some of the region s most expensive bottles at around 25 Euro a go Rosso Piceno is another commonly found Marche red go for the superiore version if you can The local white is Bianchello del Metauro a light highly drinkable wine good producers include Guerrini Fiorini San Liberio and Umani Ronchi local reds include Rosso dei Colli Pesarese again Fiorini and Guerrini make good versions Lacrima di Morro d Alba a delicious perfumed red from the little town of Morro d Alba and Vernaccia from Pergola Also from Pergola is Visner or Vino di Visciole a wonderful sweet digestivo made from visciole or wild sour cherries macerated in red wine If you want any assistance in buying wine do ask us BEACHES amp SWIMMING The closest beaches are at Fano 35 minutes drive Try the northern end of the town towards Pesaro where the beaches are sandy rather than pebbly There are also a number of small but friendly beaches on the road between Fano and Pesaro where you can wave at the passing trains If you want to try a little further afield drive southward
11. hop near Fano 10 Go downmarket at the Auchan hypermarket at Fano 11 Look perplexed at Piero della Francesca s Flagellation described by Sir Kenneth Clarke as the world s greatest small painting in Urbino s Palazzo Ducale 12 Thrill to the works of the master of bel canto at the Rossini Opera Festival at Pesaro in August having booked tickets a long time ahead 13 Eat piadina the local flat bread filled with prosciutto cheese or salami in the grounds of the medieval abbey of San Vincenzo in the nearby Furlo Gorge 14 Follow a pilgrim s trail of the works of Piero della Francesca from the Uffizi in Florence to see his famous twin portraits of Federico da Montefeltro and Battista Sforza Arezzo for his great fresco cycle of The Legend of the Cross Monterchi for the Madonna del Parto Sansepolcro for his Resurrection and Urbino for the Flagellation of Christ and the Madonna of Senigallia 15 Visit a handful of central Marche towns to see some of the best paintings by Lorenzo Lotto see www le marche com Marche html lotto htm for more 16 Find fascinating hardware and kitchen equipment at Mellifi hardware store in nearby Urbania 17 Break out the watercolours and try to render the magnificent views from the terrace 18 Explore the relics of ancient Rome that lie along the route of the via Flaminia through Cagli one of Rome s oldest great roads 19 Visit the truffle festival one of Italy s biggest at the end of October and beginn
12. i Dorati at Pergola celebrated gilded bronze Roman equestrian statues 46 Eat ripe figs in late August early September straight from one of our four fig trees 47 Take a picnic up to the meadows of nearby Monte Catria 48 Have a barbecue in the La Casetta garden without worrying about smoking out the neighbours 49 Take a gentle stroll on the circular walk through our woods 50 Visit the Conero peninsula just south of Ancona for limestone cliffs and pretty coves with some that can only be reached by boat 18 A VERY SHORT HISTORY OF SAN CRISTOFORO The sola or Island of San Cristoforo stands above the confluence of two torrents the Screbbia and the Savino and thus provided a naturally secure and easily defended site for some of the earliest inhabitants of the area Worked flint tools probably dating back to Late Stone Age times have been found in the field above the steep slopes of the torrents although no formal archaeological investigation has so far been carried out in the area More concrete evidence of early settlers was unearthed in 1934 when the then parish priest Don Biagio Paoletti discovered three tombs furnished with black glazed Etruscan style ceramics dating from the 3 Century BC The grave goods were photographed see below but nothing is known of their whereabouts Fifty years earlier another tomb was found in a nearby cornfield containing an amphora and two oil lambs but no further detai
13. ing of November at Acqualagna near Cagli 20 Pick the growing tips of Clematis vitalba old man s beard in early May to use to make a memorable omelette 21 Experience the more contemplative side of Roman Catholicism at the venerable monastery of Fonte Avellana on the flanks of Monte Catria 22 Drive to the peak of nearby Monte Catria and see if you can see the Croatian coast on the other side of the Adriatic you Il need to walk the last 20 minutes 23 Avoid the Republic of San Marino and visit its twin peak across the valley San Leo not a republic but a very striking fortified town 24 Stay up late at an outdoor bar table in Cagli s main square you can make one or two drinks last the whole evening 25 Try some of Italy s best ice cream at Ghignoni near Sanseplocro see www ghignoni it for more 26 See a striking collection of massive canvasses by the 20 C painter Alberto Burri in former tobacco drying sheds at Citt di Castello DI N 17 27 Join the pilgrims at Loreto to visit the Holy House one of the most important of Europe s many Marian shrines 28 Light a candle at the tomb of the patron saint of ecologists as well as Italy s patrono Saint Francis of Assisi Admirers of the pre Christian era should also visit the remains of the Roman forum right underneath the town s central square 29 Borrow a sugar thermometer and some jars from us and make jam from the excellent local fruit 30 Switch off al
14. is halfway between the two and only just whips up thick with a lot of work If you want cream to go with a dessert use mascarpone cream cheese bread pane bought by the half kilo or kilo mezzo kilo un kilo parma ham prosciutto crudo cooked ham prosciutto cotto olives olive The best shop for fruit amp vegetables is the friendly vegetable shop on the right just before the roundabout on the way to Cagli which stocks depending on season apples mele garlic aglio peas piselli aubergine melanzane lemons limoni peppers peperoni bananas banane lettuce insalata potatoes patate broad beans fave melon melone rocket rucola courgettes zucchine nectarine pesche noce tomatoes pomodori cucumber cetriolo onions cipolle water melon fennel finocchio oranges arance cocomero or anguria french beans fagiolini peaches pesche At the butcher s shop you ll find beef manzo steak beef pork bistecca di chicken pollo manzo di maiale lamb agnello sausages excellent salsicce liver fegato turkey tacchino pork maiale mince lean carne macinata prima rabbit coniglio scelta WINE The vegetable shop mentioned above has the best stock of cheap local wine either in ordinary bottles or five litre flagons If you want to try the best Marche wines or indeed the best Italian wines Alimentare the smart little shop bar at the side of the Town Hall has an outstanding collection of t
15. l the lights and gaze into the amazing night starscape and millions of years back into the past 31 Sup artisan beer from nearby Apecchio a citta della birra 32 Take the chair lift up nearby Monte Acuto and mountain bike your way back down 33 Admire some of the world s greatest mosaics at Ravenna just over two hours drive away 34 Count the number of dogs in the renaissance Salimbeni brothers frescoes at the Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista in Urbino 35 Buy attractive terracotta pottery at the village of Barchi 36 See why the town of Jesi is known as the Milan of the Marche 37 Hear great voices under the stars at the Macerata open air opera festival 38 Sunbathe or fly a kite on the green meadows on the top of Monte Petrano way above Cagli in late spring daffodils carpet the place 39 Try and catch a glimpse of the golden eagles either on Monte Catria or in the nearby Furlo Gorge 40 Take the bus from Cagli to Rome it takes some three hrs 30 mins each way 41 Go and ponder the KT boundary just outside nearby Gubbio for the geologists 42 Browse designer sunglasses at the smart local optician s 43 Witness the annual Good Friday procession of Cristo Morto at Cagli 200 bare footed and hooded penitents carrying a baroque catafalque with the Dead Christ through the streets moving or scary or maybe both depending on your viewpoint 44 Go clubbing at Rimini Italy s nightclub capital 45 See the Bronz
16. ls of this find have come to light The earliest written records referring to San Cristoforo are tithe accounts dating from around 1290 and suggest an already lengthy history It appears to have taken its name from a fortification that earlier stood on the site It seems that the priest lived on the site of the original church until Don Orazio Nucci 1565 1588 built a new canonica or presbytery on the current site of San Cristoforo The old church however remained in use until 1727 when the then parish priest Don Angelo Amatori built the present church at the side of the presbytery In his description of the sacristy of the new chapel Don Angelo refers to a washbowl in stone cut and decorated by myself which is still in place in what is now the bedroom of La Pieve A report by Monsignor Cosci during a pastoral visit in 1743 described how the floor of the old church had been removed revealing human remains in varying states of decomposition He ordered their removal and gave permission for the church to be demolished and the stone to be put to other uses it is probable that some of the stone for La Casetta came from the old church The last priest to live at San Cristoforo was Don Biagio Paoletti After his death in 1942 the chapel was served by the priest from the nearby parish of Sant Angelo in Maiano 19 The last mass was celebrated around 1970 The small church school at San Cristoforo was also closed in the 1970s Rich
17. n the cottage for these rare eventualities GARDEN We will need to water the garden and pots on the terrace from time to time during the summer months and hope that it will not inconvenience you You will find sun loungers and cushions for the swing chair in the store room by the terrace If you want a barbecue just ask us HEATING AND COOLING In winter the central heating system is controlled by two thermostats downstairs in the sitting room and upstairs in the twin bedded room Should you feel chilly in spring or autumn months you are welcome to light a fire We will happily supply you with logs kindling and scout style training in how to light it Both bedrooms have good quality quiet running ceiling fans for the few really hot weeks of the year INSECTS As we live in the countryside insects are all part of life s bounty however San Cristoforo is relatively free of mosquitoes and the bedroom and bathroom windows of La Casetta have insect screens Ask us for a plug in mosquito repellent if you have trouble INTERNET There is free wireless broadband in La Casetta Our 2 MB connection is fine most of the time but we usually disconnect the router if there is any threat of a thunder storm We also ask guests not you use it for such bandwidth guzzlers as streaming video gaming or file sharing KITCHEN We have left some basic ingredients and condiments for your arrival coffee tea sugar salt pepper vinegar and extra virgin
18. oils it is forced up through the coffee into the upper pot When you hear a marked gurgling sound the coffee is ready and should immediately be taken off the flame Two things not to do with the machine never wash it with washing up liquid like a teapot it should just be rinsed in water and don t bang the coffee holder to get used grounds out if it distorts it won t work anymore ELECTRIC IRON We can let you have one board should you really feel the need to use it ELECTRICITY Power as in UK is 220V 50 AC As with many country homes our supply is limited This means that if say the grill the water pump and an electric iron are on at the same time the power might cut out If the power does fail you Il need to tell us or check in two places if we re not around Firstly look at the electricity meter in the grey electricity box at the foot of the path up to the main house If the switch is on O then push it in to I If you find that the switch is already on I then check the fuse boxes next to the meter occasionally one of the trip switches cuts out especially during a thunder storm If any of the switches are in the middle position i e neither up nor down then all you have to do is push the switch down then up to the top again If the switches are all pointing upwards then the problem is probably external and it is just a matter of waiting for the power to come back on You should find a supply of candles i
19. olive oil and ask that guests keep these replenished as they run out If you need small quantities of other ingredients that are not worth you buying in any quantity nutmeg flour for example do ask us There are plenty of different herbs growing around San Cristoforo depending on season we usually have rosemary sage thyme marjoram basil bay and chives with fennel and mint growing wild Feel free to ask us if you need to borrow any particular piece of kitchen equipment LAVATORIES Please do not flush anything down the bowl other than human waste and parsimonious amounts of loo paper Sewage is treated by septic tanks which easily become fouled up Chemical lavatory cleaners acids and antibiotics should be avoided at all costs as they inhibit the workings of the tanks Excessive use of toilet paper may block up the system and cause problems for the next guests if not for you Please be economical and use the bidet as much as possible MAPS The most useful road map of the area is the Touring Club Italiano Umbria Marche sheet at 1 200 000 or the equivalent sheet from Michelin We can lend you more detailed maps for walking in the nearby mountains PARKING The region s antique towns were never built for cars and you will find that some historic centres are now closed to unauthorized traffic do not pass beyond signs with a red circle on a white background Sometimes this restriction is limited to certain days or hours
20. ons all take them ITALIAN LANGUAGE The advantage of coming to this part of Italy is that you will bump into fewer foreign tourists The disadvantage is that locals are less likely to speak good English A few words of Italian help enormously In any event you will find the people of this area very patient and friendly and shop keepers anxious to understand what you are looking for As in every country in the world words like Good morning buongiorno please per favore per piacere and thank you grazie will help you a long way In SHOPPING below you ll find a list of useful words for buying food MARKET DAYS Here are the nearest weekly morning markets Cagli Wednesday Pergola Saturday Acqualagna amp Cantiano Thursday Gubbio Tuesday Urbino amp Fano Saturday Note that parking is not easy on market days and may require a longish walk PRESENTS If you are looking for presents to buy here are a few suggestions Pottery Brightly painted majolica ware is found in large quantities in Gubbio and to a lesser extent in Urbino When decorated well it can be charming but can otherwise be somewhat kitsch Alternatively the pottery at Barchi sells attractive terracotta ware Prodotti Tipici There is a smart speciality shop in Cagli called Alimentare you ll find it at the side of the town hall in via Leopardi They sell excellent olive oil cheeses salami real balsamic vinegar the best regional wines
21. pasta in broth carciofi artichokes carne meat carote carrots carpa carp castagne chestnut castrato older stronger tasting lamb cavolfiore cauliflower cavolo nero cabbage dark ceci chick peas cetriolo cucumber ciauscolo soft cured pork salame 15 ciliege cherries cinghiale wild boar cipolla onion coniglio in porchetta rabbit stuffed with wild fennel contorno vegetable dishes coratella d agnello tasty fry up of lamb s insides costarelle spare ribs cotto cooked cotechino excellent boiled sausage cozze mussels crostini toasted canapes crudo raw dolci sweets fagiano pheasant fagioli beans fagiolini french beans faraona guinea fowl farcito stuffed fave broad beans fegatelli pig s liver wrapped in caul fat fegatini chicken livers fegato liver fettina thinly sliced meat fettuccine pasta ribbons fichi figs filetto fillet finocchio fennel focaccia flat bread formaggio cheese formaggio di fossa strong cavern aged cheese fragole strawberries frittata omelette fritto fried frutta fruit frutti di mare shell fish funghi mushrooms gamberi prawns gelato ice cream gnocchi small potato dumplings alla graticola griglia grilled insalata verde mista salad green mixed in umido stewed involtini stuffed meat rolls lenticchie lentils lepre hare lon
22. rked carta and plastica and tins go in the white bins marked lattine Ask us if you have any problems finding bins You can put organic waste in the plastic bucket on your terrace which we put in our compost bin TELEPHONE If you need to contact us when we are not at home our mobile numbers are 39 339 2411737 Peter or 39 333 8159921 Richard You are welcome to give our telephone number 39 0721 790215 from abroad 0721 790215 within Italy to family friends and work colleagues in case they need to contact you in an emergency Mobile phone users will find a good signal at San Cristoforo for TIM Telecom Italia Mobile Italy s largest network Bear in mind that the thick walls in the cottage can weaken the signal in some points WATER Our water comes from our own spring near the house Regular analysis shows that it is bacteriologically and chemically sound Nevertheless we have installed a purification plant with reverse osmosis activated charcoal filters and UV treatment in the kitchen to provide you with high quality drinking water Please use this sparingly as it comes from a somewhat costly system that can only produce around 10 litres per day please don t use it for washing up cooking pasta etc WASHING MACHINE You are free to use the washing machine in the main house Please ask us and we will show you how to use it and give you detergent WHEN YOU LEAVE It is probable that there will be new g
23. s to the Conero Riviera just south of Ancona the most beautiful coastline along this stretch of the Adriatic It takes about an hour and a half by car In July and August though it gets very crowded However we think it is hard to beat Cagli s own rocky riverside swimming holes You will find them between Cagli and Cantiano on the old via Flaminia and also in the direction of Secchiano Gran Canyon as it is known locally lies on the road towards Secchiano Leave Cagli on the road which passes the Torrione and drive for about 4 km Passing a small roadside chapel on the left park on the right hand verge a further 500m on just after the end of the crash barrier Here there is a long narrow channel for swimming and rocks for paddling Further downstream clamber down over the rocks to explore the Gran Canyon itself a microscopic version of its Arizona counterpart but extremely beautiful You ll notice a rather undistinguished bar pizzeria which lies along the old via Flaminia about 4 km S of Cagli opposite a large stone quarry About 400m before you arrive there there are shallow rock pools and flat bathing areas as well as a large deep rock pool and an overhanging promontory for diving Note that most of these places require a certain amount of scrambling down slopes and so are not ideal for less able guests They are also not swimmable after heavy rain and usually only really inviting in July and August MEDICAL DOCTORS AND
24. secondi maybe avoid the antipasti Otherwise up by the castle La Taverna della Rocca closed Weds built in the old stables serves authentic local food essentially a choice of primi and a good selection of meats grilled on the large fire in front of you around 20 per head Nearby is the equally good if marginally less atmospheric Amabile closed Mon Cagli itself has a limited choice of places other than anonymous pizzerie La Gioconda closed Mon booking advised at weekends in an attractive cellar just off the street between the piazza and the oval Torrione with a creative take on local cooking served with a flourish at fair prices is listed by Michelin A good and cheap choice is Il Poggio closed Mon renowned for its spaghetti alla carbonara you ll find it signed off to your left on your way to Cagli Alimentare closed Sun the little specialist deli and wine shop see Shopping section also has a simple but imaginative lunchtime menu and excellent plates of mixed sa umi and or cheese you can sit at one of the few outdoor tables in summer In the centre of Acqualagna just off the main square Osteria del Parco closed Tues serves hearty traditional food at modest prices and has a large garden Just before you arrive at the Furlo Gorge from the direction of Cagli a good lunchtime snack place is the Abbadia di San Vincenzo open daily in summer This outdoor kiosk sells piadina the local flat bread filled with prosci
25. turn left over the bridge following signs for PERGOLA Coming from Tuscany or Umbria to the east navigate your way to GUBBIO then follow the signs for FANO and the SS 3 Having climbed up the hill and back down keep following signs for FANO As you approach Cagli take the exit marked SAN GERONZIO and CAGLI turn right at the bottom of the slip road and follow the road as it skirts the edge of Cagli until you reach the traffic lights where you turn right over the bridge Having turned at the traffic lights and crossed the bridge follow the main road through the modern part of town straight on at the roundabout and back into open countryside At the next roundabout take the second exit for PERGOLA After about 4 km from the traffic lights the road leaves the flat plain look out for the bar restaurant Le Fontane on your right at end of this straight stretch of road and twists down into a river valley over a small bridge and rises up again Now take the first left turn right on the brow of the valley Watch out for traffic on this blind corner there is a mirror on your left to help check for oncoming traffic You will see San Cristoforo on its small hillock to the left of you take the first left turn immediately after our small abandoned cemetery Ben arrivati For a more precise way of finding your way look out for the kilometre markers on the left hand side of the road as you come from Cagli these mark each kilometre in descending
26. uests arriving on the day of your departure In order to prepare for them we would be grateful if you would depart before 10 00 am If you have a late departure please feel free to leave your cases here to collect later you are welcome to use our own bathroom if you need to before leaving Don t be shy in telling us how you think we might improve what we offer Our website is at www sancristoforo info We re always pleased too when guests leave feedback on websites such as www sawdays co uk or www tripadvisor com SHOPPING amp MORE BANKS There are some five banks with 24 7 ATMSs in Cagli If you have a credit or debit card you will find these the easiest way to get money Banks are open from 8 30 until 13 30 and from 15 00 to 16 00 Monday to Friday only they are closed on Saturday BREAD Traditional local bread pane comune is unsalted and many guests used to salted bread find it tasteless Conad see below sells ciabatta and pane pugliese both salted if you want wholemeal bread ask for pane integrale Alimentare sell a particularly good integrale Remember that shops sell out of bread quickly and by the afternoon there is often little choice In emergencies you can buy packaged sliced white bread called pan carr which makes passable toast but is otherwise inedible CREDIT CARDS Most larger shops and restaurants in Cagli take them Down by the coast and in larger towns they are even more widely accepted Petrol stati
27. utto cheese or erba cotta cooked greens Further along the gorge is the Ristorante Antico Furlo wonderful food from celebrated local chef Alberto Melagrana but high prices some guests find it great for a special meal others find it overpriced 13 If you re in Cantiano try Ristorante Tenetra closed Mon near the traffic lights better than average local cooking some rarely found traditional dishes and fair prices For fish there are endless possibilities along the coast particularly at Fano and Pesaro note that nearly all fish restaurants close on Mondays For a budget piscine lunch try the self service Pesce Azzurro at Fano The set price menu last year 13 gives you a no choice four course lunch cooked by a fishermen s co operative plus a quarter bottle of wine a bargain though the noise can be a bit off putting You Il find the restaurant on the sea front between the Sassonia Beach and the fishing port A few doors up is Da Quinta one of Fano s oldest and most traditional trattorie serving fish For the grandest fish meal of all try Uliassi closed Mon booking suggested close to the port at Senigallia reckoned one of Italy s top restaurants not too fussy brilliant but relaxed service and right on the beach Seriously expensive but worth it around 140 per head including wine and what you d expect from two Michelin stars If you re going to Gubbio the best known restaurant in town is Taverna del
28. which will be marked on the sign for example weekends or market days Otherwise park in designated parking spaces spaces drawn with blue lines mean you need to pay at the nearby ticket machine and display the ticket in your windscreen yellow lined spaces are usually for disabled drivers or permit holders and spaces drawn in white lines are free parking Where signs indicate a time limit you will have to set a disco orario with your time of arrival you can buy the disc from most newsagents and garages In a hire car there should be one in the glove compartment or already stuck on the windscreen PAYMENT We would be grateful if you could settle up with us in good time before leaving You can pay the balance due in Euro either in cash by Visa MasterCard Maestro or Amex credit or debit card you ll need your PIN or by bank transfer the best way if you have a Euro zone bank account PETS We have two cats Fred and Ginger and ask guests to try not to feed them Unfortunately we are not able to play host to guests with their own dogs or cats RECYCLING amp RUBBISH There is no door to door rubbish collection in this part of the world Please take your general rubbish glass paper tins and plastic to the various bins at the side of the road on the way into Cagli The large plain green bins are for non recyclable waste while the smaller containers marked vetro are for glass Paper and plastics bins are the red and yellow ones ma
29. za cured fillet of pork luccio pike lumache snails macedonia di frutta fruit salad magro lean maiale pig pork mandorle almonds manzo beef marmellata jam mela apple melanzane aubergines merluzzo cod miele honey minestra soup minestrone vegetable soup misto mixed nocciole hazelnuts noce walnut nostrano nostrale locally produced oca goose olio d oliva olive oil orata gilt head bream osso buco shin of veal ostriche oysters pane bread panforte dried fruit spiced cake panino roll panna cream panzanella bread amp tomato salad pappardelle wide pasta noodles passatelli a pasta made of breadcrumbs amp cheese patate potatoes penne pasta quills peperoni peppers peperonata braised peppers and tomato pesce fish pescespada sword fish 16 piccione ripieno pigeon stuffed piselli peas pollo chicken polpette meatballs pomodoro tomato porcini boletus mushrooms cepes prosciutto crudo ham raw cured Parma ragu meat sauce ripieno stuffed stuffing riso rice rombo turbot or brill in rosso cooked with tomato salame di fichi figs pressed into salame shape salsiccia sausage seppie con piselli octopus with peas sogliola sole sott olio food preserved under oil spezzatino meat stew allo spiedo grilled on skewers spinaci spinach stoccafisso salt cod se
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