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1. A 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER A 2 REMOVE SET SCREWS AND C 3 TAKE THE TOP COVER D OFF WHEN YOU REPLACE THE TOP COVER SET THE PROJECTION E INTO THE GROOVE F OF THE BELT COVER SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 SERVICE ACCESS BASE PLATE 1 REMOVE 4 SET SCREWS A 2 REMOVE THE BASE PLATE B BED COVER E 1 REMOVE 2 SET SCREWS D 2 REMOVE THE BED COVER E WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BED COVER SET THE DROP LEVER F IN THE LEFT POSITION SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 SERVICE ACCESS BELT COVER BELT COVER PROJECTION LATCH m LOOSEN SET SCREW A AND REMOVE SET SCREW B PULL THE RIGHT SIDE OF BELT COVER IN THE DIRECTION OF ARROW AS ILLUSTRATED AND TAKE THE LATCH OFF THEN REMOVE THE BELT COVER WHEN YOU ATTACH THE BELT COVER SET THE PROJECTION INTO THE GROOVE OF THE FRONT COVER FREE ARM COVER NEEDLE PLATE FREE ARM COVER 1 REMOVE SET SCREW A AND THE NEEDLE PLATE 2 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE PAGE 7 3 REMOVE SCREW B AND THE FREE ARM COVER SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 SERVICE ACCESS FRONT COVER wb SPEED RANGE SWITCH OPEN THE FACE COVER REMOVE THE TOP COVER SEE P 6 THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 REMOVE SET SCREW A B LOOSEN SET SCREWS C D THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER E PULL THE FRONT COVER OFF THE LATCH F OF THE REAR COVER REMOVE THE LOWER PART OF THE THREAD GUIDE G TO R
2. G 25 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE TO CHECK 1 2 2 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT 3 REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN 468368 A TURN THE HAND WHEEL SLOWLY BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE TEST PIN AND THE SHARP END B OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK SHOULD BE BETWEEN 40 05 0 002 AND 0 10 MM C 0 004 ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE l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
3. TIGHT TURN THE LEAD SCREW D IN THE DIRECTION F C TO TIGHTEN D THREAD TENSION DIAL 4 B SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT TO CHECK 1 2 RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT A AND THE NEEDLE PLATE SHOULD BE 6 0 MM 0 24 IF THIS IS NOT THE CASE ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 OPEN THE FACE COVER RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER B AND LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW D ON THE PRESSER BAR HOLDER B ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT A AND THE NEEDLE PLATE C TO 6 0 MM 0 24 TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW D SECURELY NOTE WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW D MAKE SURE THE ZIGZAG FOOT A RUNS PARALLEL WIHT THE FEED DOG F FEED DOG SLITS 6MM LH SHOULD BE PARALLEL SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK IF THE NEEDLE BAR MOVES SIDEWISE WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC IN ZISZAG STITCHING ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS THE NEEDLE SHOULD START SWINGING WHEN 2 0 08 TO 0 12 ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE TOP COVER SEE P 6 SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT SELECT THE MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH 2 LOOSEN THE TWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM 3 WHILE HOLDING THE UPPER SHAFT WORM IN PLACE CAREFULLY TURN
4. NIE A ON A 15 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK SET THE STITCH WIDTH DIAL TO 0 AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION DROP THE FEED DOGS PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK NEEDLE POINT A ON A PIECE OF PAPER BY TURNING HAND WHEEL RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION TURN THE STITCH WIDTH DIAL TO 6 5 8 LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS B AND C ON THE PIECE OF PAPER BY TURNING THE HAND WHEEL 9 THE DISTANCE BETWEEN A B AND A C SHOULD BE EQUAL m gt N gt No WIDTH SELECTED PATTERN STICH WIDTH DIA 16 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 OPENTHE FACE COVER AND LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW D 2 MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER E EITHER DIRECTION UNTIL THE DISTANCES A TO B AND A TO C BECOME EQUAL 3 TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW D SECURELY D SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STIICH BALANCE TO CHECK 1 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT STITCH LENGTH DIAL AT STRETCH STITCH AND STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTER AT it 2 PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT 3 TURN THE HAND WHEEL TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS ON THE PAPER 4 THE NEEDLE SHO
5. ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSIMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION OIL ALL MOVING PARTS ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STITCH BALANCE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 1 SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 2 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 THREADING OF MACHINE THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS DOTTED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN IS PULLED TIGHT RAISE THE TAKE UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER PLACE SPOOL ON PIN WITH THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOOL 1 DRAW THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE 2 HOLDING THREAD TAUT WITH RIGHT HAND DRAW THREAD DOWN INTO THE TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER 3 FIRMLY DRAW THREAD UP AND THROUGH THE TAKE UP LEVER FROM RIGHT TO LEFT 4 PULL THE THREAD TO THE LEFT AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD GUIDE 5 THREAD NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK NOTE YOU MAY WANT TO CUT THE END OF THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS FOR EASIER NEEDLE THREADING SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 SERVICE ACCESS FACE COVER 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER A 2 REMOVE THE SET SCREWS B 3 TAKE THE FACE COVER A OFF TOP COVER
6. D WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT IS LOW OR IN THE DIRECTION OF E WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT IS HIGH TIGHTEN THE NUT A AND THE SET SCREW B SECURELY 2 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING 1 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT ZIG ZAG WIDTH AT 6 5 PREPARATION 1 REMOVE THE NEEDLE PRESSER FOOT NEEDLE PLATE AND BOBBIN HOLDER 8 2 INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 468497 ONTO THE HOOK 3 ATTACH THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT GAUGE 68168 D PUSH IT UP UNTIL IT STOPS 4 TIGHTEN THE NEEDLE CLAMP SCREW E TO CHECK 1 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR F REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION IF FINGER COMES DOWN ON TOP OF PIN OR IF PIN l TOUCHES THE SURFACE OF GAUGE K TOO FORCEFULLY ADJUST AS PER THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE NEXT PAGE 2 THE FACE OF FINGER G SHOULD HIT THE SIDE OF PIN AND THE END OF PIN 1 SHOULD TOUCH THE SURFACE OF GAUGE K WHEN THE NEEDLE BAR F REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION 22 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 OPEN THE FACE COVER LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW ON THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER L gt MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR F UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE POSITION OF THE NEEDLE BAR P SO THAT THE FACE OF FINGER G HITS THE SIDE OF PIN CH AND THE END OF PIN 1 TOUCHES THE SURFACE OF GAUGE K
7. SHAFT BUSHING ECCENTRIC BUSHING D IN DIRECTION E WHEN THE PLAY AT THE SHUTTLE HOOK TIP IS TOO SMALL TURN THE LOWER SHAFT BUSHING ECCENTRIC BUSHING D IN DIRECTION WHEN THE PLAY AT THE SHUTTLE HOOK TIP IS TOO LARGE TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW C SECURELY AFTER ADJUSTMENT LOWER SHAFT GEAR gt GROOVE OF LOWER SHAFT BUSHING O 27 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE TO CHECK 1 SET THE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS STITCH SELECTOR STITCH LENGTH DIAL BLUE ZONE STITCH WIDTH DIAL 6 5 2 ATTACH THE AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT 3 SEW BUTTONHOLE AND CHECK THE STITCH BALANCE BETWEEN THE RIGHT SIDE AND LEFT SIDE OF BUTTONHOLE 4 THE CORRECT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE IS WHEN THERE IS THE SAME COARSE ON THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDES OF BUTTONHOLE WIDTH TITCH WIDTH DIAL of 7S9 J LENGTH STITCH LENGTH DIAL SELECTED PATTERN 28 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE P 7 LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW A IF THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BUTTONHOLE IS TOO SPARSE TURN THE RING B IN THE DIRECTION OF IF THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BUTTONHOLE IS SPARSE TURN THE RING B IN THE DIRECTION OF D TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW A SECURELY RING B HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW A INCORRECT COR
8. 5 TOO LOW THREAD IS JAMMING AROUND THE BOBBIN THREAD BOBBIN CORRECTLY ADJUST THE POSITION OF STOPPER CLEAN THE SHUTILE CHANGE TO A HIGH QUALITY SEWING THREAD CLEAR OUT THE JAMMING THREAD 5 NEEDLE BREAKS NEEDLE IS HITTING THE NEEDLE PLATE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION CHANGE THE NEEDLE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTILE NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN NEEDLE IS HITTING THE SHUTTLE THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE THE NEEDLE 15 PIERCING IT OR THE NEEDLE ZIGZAGS WHILE IN FABRIC FABRIC IS BEING PULLED TOO GUIDE THE FABRIC GENTLY STRONGLY WHILE SEWING WHILE SEWING SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 CONDITION 6 NOISY OPERATION 7 DEFORMATION PATTERN 8 IMPROPER BUTTONHOLE BACKLASH BETWEEN SHUTTLE HOOK GEAR AND LOWER SHAFT GEAR IS TOO GREAT LOWER SHAFT GEAR IS LOOSE INAPPROPRIATE BELT TENSION NOT ENOUGH OIL UPPER SHAFT IS LOOSE INAPPROPRIATE FEED BALANCE INAPPROPRIATE ZIGZAG SYNCHRONIZATION UPPER THREAD TENSION IS TOO STRONG BUTTONHOLE BALANCE IS NOT CORRECT IMPROPER SIZE ON AUTO BUTTONHOLE CHANGING TO BAR TACK IS TOO FAST OR WILL NOT WORK MODEL 385 18630890 HOW TO FIX REFERENCE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BACKLASH LOWER SHAFT GEAR
9. EPLACE FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE IN REVERSE SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 SERVICE ACCESS REAR PANEL TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER PART FROM THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER REAR PANEL UNIT 1 OPENTHE FACE COVER 2 REMOVE THE TOP COVER UNIT SEE P 6 THE BELT COVER GEE P 8 AND THE FRONT COVER SEE P 9 3 REMOVE SET SCREWS C AND LOOSEN SET SCREWS D 4 LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND PULL AWAY THE REAR PANEL UNIT FROM THE MACHINE FRAME TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER PART FROM THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER WHEN YOU ATTACH THE REAR PANEL PUT THE WINDOW ON THE PLASTIC PANEL OVER THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER THEN REPLACE THE 6 SCREWS 10 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION TO CHECK 1 2 SET THE TENSION DIAL 4 AND RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT PASS THE THREAD A BETWEEN THE DISCS AND DRAW THE THREAD A DOWN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER AS IN FIG 1 LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT AND BRING THE THREAD A UP TOP TENSION SHOULD BE 75 90g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD A UP IN THE DIRECTION B USE POLYESTER SEWING THREAD 450 WHITE IT IS NOT WITHIN THE ABOVE LIMITS ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 REMOVE FRONT COVER UNIT SEE P 9 PULL SPRING AWAY FROM THE LEAD SCREW IF THE TOP TENSION IS TOO LOOSE TURN THE LEAD SCREW D IN THE DIRECTION IF THE TOP TENSION IS
10. LE RETHREAD USE THE RECOMMENDED SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD USE A 11 BLUE TIP NEEDLE ADJUST THE PRESSER BAR LEVEL TO MAKE THE PRESSURE STRONGER SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE ADJUST THE PRESSER BAR LEVEL TO MAKE THE PRESSURE STRONGER SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT RAISE THE F D LEVEL MAKE SURE TO BRING BOTH NEEDLE AND BOBBIN THREAD UNDER THE FOOT WHEN STARTING SEWING CHANGE THE FEED DOG SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 3 BREAKING UPPER THREAD ana INITIAL SEWING SPEED IS TOO FAST THREAD PATH IS INCORRECT NEEDLE IS BENT OR DULL START WITH MEDIUM SPEED USE THE PROPER THREAD PATH REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE ADJUST UPPER THREAD TENSION CORRECTLY USE APPROPRIATE NEEDLE AND THREAD FOR FABRIC IN USE CHANGE THE NEEDLE REPAIR THE HOLE OR REPLACE THE NEEDLE PLATE UPPER THREAD TENSION 15 TOO STRONG NEEDLE SIZE IS INAPPROPRIATE FOR FABRIC NEEDLE EYE 15 WORN NEEDLE HOLE IN NEEDLE PLATE IS WORN OR BURRED 4 BREAKING BOBBIN THREAD INCORRECTLY THREADED BOBBIN TOO MUCH THREAD IS AROUND ON THE BOBBIN LINT IS STUCK INSIDE THE BOBBIN HOLDER THREAD QUALITY 1
11. MENT ZERO FEEDING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 2 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR 4 AND THE STITCH LENGTH DIAL 0 3 PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE 4 IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD TURN ADJUSTING SCREW C IN DIRECTION A IF THE PAPER MOVES BACKWARD TURN ADJUSTING SCREW C IN DIRECTION FORWARD BACKWARD 33 SEWING MACHINE 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BASIC NEEDLE POSITION IF THE LEFT NEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZIGZAG AND IN STRAIGHT SEWING IS NOT THE SAME ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 REMOVE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 SELECT THE LEFT NEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZIG ZAG THEN SELECT THE LEFT NEEDLE POSITION STRAIGHT SEWING IF THE RESULT LOOKS LIKE A BELOW TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN DIRECTION IF THE RESULT LOOKS LIKE B BELOW TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN DIRECTION C REPLACE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 ADJUSTING SCREW NEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZICZAG il NEEDLE POSITION IN STRAIGHT SEWING A B CORRECT INCORRECT INCORRECT SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 1 A BUTTONHOLE SEWN WITH THE AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT WILL BE 0 12 LONGER THAN THE ACTUAL BUTTON THE LENGTH CAN BE ADJUSTED AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE R LOWER THE FEED DOG AND ATTACH FOOT R THEN LOWER THE PRESSER BAR 2 L
12. NG MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 OILING FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTS WILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING WITHOUT ROUTINE OILING BUT YOU SHOULD STILL CHECK FOR POSSIBLE LUBRICATION NEEDS WHENEVER SERVICING MACHINES OIL USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS A C D E F amp INDICATED BY THE BLACK ARROWS GREASE USE WHITE GREASE SUCH AS MOLYCOTE EM 40M AT THE POINTS H 1 amp J INDICATED BY THE WHITE ARROWS 39 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 WIRING OF TERMINAL BLOCK RIDGE L LAMP M MOTOR 5 SPEED RANGE WITCH SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE 68496 SLOTIED SCREW DRIVER NEEDLE HEIGHT GAUGE 48 168 PHILLIPS SCREW DRIVER U N TEST PIN 68368 ALLEN SCREW DRIVER 4 RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68497 RADIAL TIMING GAUGE SHEET U1369C ALLEN WRENCH 41 N
13. OOSEN SET SCREW A 3 PULLDOWN THE BH LEVER UNTIL IT TOUCHES FOOT R AND BAR B HITS THE FRONT BASE PLATE ALSO MAKE SURE BH LEVER ADJUSTING PLATE C TOUCHES FINGER D TIGHTEN SET SCREW A 4 RAISE THE FEED DOG AND SEW A BUTTONHOLE THEN CHECK THE LENGTH c EE EE SHORT STANDARD LONG FRONT BASE PLATE LEVER ADJUSTING PULLING BAR B PLATE C HITTING FRONT BASE PLATE TOUCHING SHORTER SET SCREW A D BH LEVER R TOUCHING FOOT R 35 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 2 IF THE BAR TACK ON THE BUITONHOLE OCCURS EARLY OR IF NO BAR TACK IS SEWN AT ALL ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 2 A IF BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO SOON TURN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E IN DIRECTION C B IF BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO LATE TURN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E IN DIRECTION D 3 AITACH THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 zx S EE mz BAR TACK IS SEWN BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO SOON TOO LATE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E 36 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION TO CHECK 1 IF THE MOTOR BELT TENSION IS TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE IT MAY CAUSE BELT NOISE ALSO A TIGHT BELT TENSION CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN SLOW AND WILL OVERLOAD THE MOTOR TOO LOOSE A MOTOR BELT TENSION HOWEVER MAY CAUSE THE BELT TEETH ON
14. PARTS Thread Spool Pin Upper Thread Guide Bobbin Winding Spindie Take up Lever Stitch Width Setting Display Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Setting Display Top thread Tension Control Stitch Length Control Face Caver Plate Stitch Selector Thread Cutter Sewing Gulde Display Needle Plate Reverse Stitch Control Hook Cover Plate Speed Range Switch Extension table Accessory storage box Carrying Handle Presser Foot Lever Buttonhole Pitch Balance Adjusting Lever Free Arm Stretch Stitch Adjuster Drop Feed Lever Power Switch Nomenclature Plate Machine Socket Buttonhole Lever c Snap on Button Presser Foot Needie Clamp Thumb Screw Presser Foot SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 1 SKIPPING STITCHES 2 FABRIC NOT MOVING MODEL 385 18630890 WHAT TO DO WHEN NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED PROPERLY NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN INCORRECTLY THREADED NEEDLE OR THREAD ARE INAPPROPRIATE FOR FABRIC BEING SEWN SEWING ON STRETCH FABRIC PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE IS TOO WEAK INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE TO SHUTILE TIMING INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE TO SHUTILE CLEARANCE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE 15 TOO WEAK _ INCORRECT F D HEIGHT ISIN DOWN POSITION THREAD ON BOTIOM SIDE OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP FEED DOG TEETH ARE WORN HOW TO FIX REFERENCE INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY CHANGE THE NEED
15. RECT INCORRECT X X ALU 29 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION TO CHECK 1 SET THE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS STITCH SELECTOR SAN STITCH WIDTH DIAL 65 2 TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO CENTER POSITION 3 THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT MOVE WHEN YOU TURN THE STITCH WIDTH DIAL TO 0 55 wom LT wom SELECTED PATTERN SICH WIDTH DIAL 30 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 B REMOVE THE TOP COVER SEE P 6 TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO THE CENTER OF THE SLIT IN THE NEEDLE PLATE LOOSEN SET SCREWS A AND B TIGHTEN SET SCREW A SLIGHTLY MOVE THE PLATE C TO EITHER DIRECTION AS SHOWN BY THE ARROW UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES MOVEMENT EVEN IF THE DIAL IS MOVED FROM MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH TO ZERO 31 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT ZERO FEEDING TO CHECK 1 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR TO P AND THE STITCH LENGTH DIAL TO 0 2 PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE 3 CHECK IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN YOU TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU 4 THE MACHINE SHOULD NOT FEED A PIECE OF PAPER AT THIS SETTING i c C9 umen SELECTED PATTERN STHCH LENGTH DIAL 32 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUST
16. SERVICE MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385 18630890 JUNE 1998 CONTENTS LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS 2 2 2 22 WHAT TO DO WHEN E THREADING OF MACHINE 2 2222222 2 22 2 2 0 0 SERVICE ACCESS BELT COVER u ya vad EO FREE ARM COVER ia HR EC AS FRONT COVER waza odda Ja EC REAR PANEL TET Asta MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT lt TOP TENSION nn PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT 222 2 2 NEEDLE SWING Wed Hansa NRAJSNEDUICHNO ida cor hen pd opea DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE 8 2 2 2 ac SIRETGCHSITCH BALANCE ied aate tri lec nds tnn NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT a etri avan d rene ian NEEDLE TO SHUHLE TIMING a owi oi W NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE u zi BACKLASH LOWER SHAFT GEAR Rey BUTIONHOLE 5 BALANCE ac i Ru bed e NEEDLE POSITION x iio eite tte Ed ZERO FEEDING GA As BASIC NEEDLE POSITION dui se an BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION OD nennen BUTIONHOLE FUNCTION ein MOTOR BELT TENSION es REPLACING THE INDICATOR PLATE ao s eem WIRING OF TERMINAL BLOCK Lae SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED aa Vio SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE
17. THE BALANCE WHEEL AND ADJUST SO THAT LATERAL NEEDLE SWING STARTS FROM A POSITION 2MM 0 08 TO 0 12 ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE IN RIGHT OUTFLOW 4 TIGHTEN THE TWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM 5 ATTACH THE TOP COVER UNIT NOTE FOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE TOP COVER UNIT SEE TO PAGE 2 AFTER ADJUSTMENT OF THE TIMING OF LATERAL NEEDLE SWING MAKE SURE THAT THERE I5 NO BACKLASH BETWEEN THE UPPER SHAFT WORM AND THE OTHER GEAR AND THAT SMOOTH ROTATION IS OBTAINED THE BACKLASH THE BACKLASH IS DECREASED IS INCREASED i UPPER SHAFT HEXAGONAL NOTE O MAKE SURE THE WORM DOSE NOT MOVE SIDEWISE WHEN TURNING THE UPPER SHAFT OTHERWISE THE BACKLASH BETWEEN THE WORM AND GEAR WiLL CHANGE 2 3MM i RIGHT OUTFLOW START POSITION SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRAIGHT STITCHING TO CHECK 8 1 SET THE STITCH WIDTH DIAL AT 0 AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT 2 TURN THE HAND WHEEL BY HAND 3 THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT SWING SIDE TO SIDE AT THIS SETTING won SELECTED PATIERN STITCH WIDTH DIAL 14 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRAIGHT STITCHING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE TOP COVER SEE 6 2 LOOSEN SET SCREW A 3 MOVE THE ZIGZAG WIDTH ROD B UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES ITS ZIGZAG MOVEMENT WHEN YOU TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU 4 TIGHTEN SET SCREW A SECURELY NE 0 lt
18. THE MOTOR PULLEY TO JUMP THE CORRECT MOTOR BELT TENSION IS ACHIEVED WHEN THE BELT PUSHES IN ABOUT 7MM 0 28 9MM 0 36 UNDER A PRESSURE OF ABOUT 300 GRAMS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 REMOVE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 LOOSEN SET SCREWS A AND B MOVE THE MOTOR UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE DEFLECTION TO ABOUT 7MM 0 285 9MM 0 36 TIGHTEN SET SCREWS A AND 300g LOAD DEFLECTION 7 9 MM B 37 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 7 REPLACING THE INDICATOR PLATE WHEN YOU REPLACE THE EACH INDICATOR PLATE DO AS FOLLOWS REMOVE THE FRONT COVER SEE 9 REMOVE THE SET SCREW A THEN REPLACE THE INDICATOR PLATE MATCH THE CENTER OF THE ARCING HOLE OF THE INDICATOR PLATE TO THE PIN AND SCREW HOLE IN THE BASE PLATE ATTACH THE PLATE HOLDER AND REPLACE THE SCREW ATTACH THE FRONT COVER MAKE SURE THE INDICATION APPEARS IN THE CENTER OF THE WINDOW IF POSITION IS OFF REMOVE THE FRONT COVER LOOSEN THE SET SCREW A AND MOVE THE INDICATOR PLATE ATIACH THE FRONT COVER SEE P 9 THEN CHCK THE POSITION NOTE MAKE SURE THE INDICATOR PLATES OVERLAP EACH OTHER IN THE CORRECT ORDER SEE FOLLOWING PICTURE INDICATOR PLATE WIDTH N R a 4 INDICA STITCH LENGTH ee 3 65 WIDTH INDICATOR PLATE STITCH INDICATOR PLATE BASE PLATE b EA PV Q RS H TOR PLATE z PATTERN INDICATOR PLATE 38 SEWI
19. TIGHTEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW M SECURELY 23 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHUTILE TIMING 1 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR cP ZIG ZAG WIDTH 6 5 PREPARATION 1 REMOVE THE NEEDLE PRESSER FOOT NEEDLE PLATE A AND BOBBIN HOLDER B 2 INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68497 SO THAT THE SMALL FINGER ON THE GAUGE FITS INTO THE SLOT NEAR THE TIP OF THE HOOK 3 PUT THE TEST PIN 68368 D IN THE NEEDLE HOLDER PUSH UP IT UNTIL IT STOPS 4 TIGHTEN THE NEEDLE CLAMP SCREW gt TO CHECK 1 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE TIP OF TEST PIN 68368 D SLIGHTLY TOUCHES THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68497 2 THE TIP OF TEST PIN 68368 D SHOULD BE BETWEEN THE TWO WHITE LINES OF THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68497 IF THE TEST PIN DOES NOT FALL BETWEEN THE 2 WHITE LINES ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE ADJUST AS FOLLOWS 24 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEED E TO SHUTTLE TIMING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE 7 2 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES THE LOWEST POSITION 3 LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS G AND H 4 HOLD THE HANDWHEEL AND TURN THE LOWER SHAFT GEAR 1 UNTIL THE TEST PIN 58368 D COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO WHITE LINES OF THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 58497 C 5 TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS AND
20. ULD PENETRATE THE SAME HOLES IN FORWARD AND REVERSE DIRECTION WHILE TURNING THE HAND WHEEL TOWARDS YOU II 20 LENGTH SELECTED PATTERN STIICH LENGTH DIAL Y 18 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STITCH BALANCE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE CAP P 2 IF THE REVERSE STITCH LENGTH B IS SHORTER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH A TURN THE ADJUSTING SET SCREW E IN THE DIRECTION OF C IF THE REVERSE STITCH LENGTH B IS LONGER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH A TURN THE ADJUSTING SET SCREW E IN THE DIRECTION OF D o lt 45 MAI by RY NY KU D 5 E F SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT L TO CHECK SET THE STITCH LENGTH DIAL AT 4 AND RAISE THE NEEDLE ITS HIGHEST POSITION RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT AND PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE 468496 ON THE NEEDLE PLATE TURN THE HAND WHEEL AND CHECK THE FEED DOG HEIGHT THE FEED DOG HEIGHT SHOULD BE AS PER CHART 1 CHART 1 GAUGE FEED DOG HEIGHT FACE A FACE B 0 95MM 0 75MM move CORRECT NOTMOVING NOTMOVING cm a 4 LENGTH SHTCH LENGTH DIAL A 20 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 REMOVE THE BED COVER LOOSEN THE NUT A AND THE SET SCREW TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW C IN THE DIRECTION OF

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