mechanical adjustment
Contents
1. STRETCH LENGTH mt C 0 1 2 3 4 ch SELECTED PATTERN STITCH LENGTH CONTROL 32 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT ZERO FEEDING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 4 FORWARD REMOVE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT J AND THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT 0 PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW C IN DIRECTION A IF THE PAPER MOVES BACKWARD TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW C IN DIRECTION B BACKWARD 33 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BASIC NEEDLE POSITION THE LEFT NEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZIGZAG AND IN STRAIGHT SEWING ARE NOT THE SAME ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 REMOVE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 SELECT THE LEFT NEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZIG ZAG THEN SELECT THE LEFT NEEDLE POSITION IN STRAIGHT SEWING IF THE RESULT LOOKS LIKE A SEE BELOW TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN DIRECTION D IF THE RESULT LOOKS LIKE B SEE BELOW TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN DIRECTION REPLACE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 ADJUSTING SCREI NEEDLE POSITION IN 4 3 cs MAXIMUM ZIGZAG NEEDLE POSITION ED GO STRAIGHT SEWING A CORRECT INCORRECT 8 INCORRECT SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 1 A BUTTONHOLE THAT HAS BEEN SEWN2. 4 THE NEEDLE SHOULD PENETRATE THE SAME HOLE IN A FORWARD AND REVERSE DIRECTION WHILE TURNING THE HANDWHEEL TOWARDS YOU STRETCH LENGTH Y _ AI 0 t 2 3 4 00 j SELECTED PATTERN STITCH LENGTH CONTROL 7 og 18 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STITCH BALANCE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE CAP F 2 IF THE REVERSE STITCH LENGTH B IS SHORTER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH A TURN THE ADJUSTING SET SCREW E IN THE DIRECTION OF C IF THE REVERSE STITCH LENGTH B IS LONGER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH A TURN THE ADJUSTING SET SCREW E IN THE DIRECTION OF D F 19 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT TO CHECK 1 STRETCH LENGTH v nn CV D STITCH LENGTH CONTROL SET THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT 4 AND RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT AND PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE 68496 ON THE NEEDLE PLATE TURN THE HANDWHEEL AND CHECK THE FEED DOG HEIGHT THE FEED DOG HEIGHT SHOULD BE IN ACCORDANCE WITH CHART 1 CHART 1 GAUGE FEED DOG HEIGHT FACE A FACE B 0 95MM 0 75MM NOT MOVING CORRECT 0 1 2 3 4 A 20 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 REMOVE THE BED COVER LOOSEN THE NUT AND THE SETSCREW TURN THE
3. N PHILLIPS SCREW DRIVER p TEST PIN 468368 RADIAL TIMING GAUGE SHEET 013696 ALLEN WRENCH 45
4. REMOVE THE FOUR SETSCREWS A 2 REMOVE THE BASE PLATE B BED COVER 1 REMOVE THE TWO SETSCREWS D 2 REMOVE THE BED COVER E WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BED COVER SET THE DROP LEVER F IN THE LEFT POSITION SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 SERVICE ACCESS BELT COVER BELT COVER PULL OUT THE STITCH SELECTOR LOOSEN SETSCREW A AND REMOVE SETSCREW B PULL THE RIGHT SIDE OF BELT COVER IN THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROW AS ILLUSTRATED AND TAKE THE LATCH OFF AND THEN REMOVE THE BELT COVER WHEN YOU REATTACH THE BELT COVER SET THE PROJECTION INTO THE GROOVE ON THE FRONT COVER FREE ARM COVER NEEDLE PLATE FREE ARM COVER 1 REMOVE SETSCREW A AND THE NEEDLE PLATE 2 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE PAGE 7 3 REMOVE SCREW B AND THE FREE ARM COVER SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 SERVICE ACCESS FRONT COVER OPEN THE FACE COVER REMOVE THE TOP COVER SEE P 6 AND THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 REMOVE SETSCREWS A AND B LOOSEN SETSCREWS C AND D THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER E UNHOOK THE FRONT COVER FROM THE LATCH F OF THE REAR COVER TAKE OFF THE LEFT BOTTOM END OF THE FRONT COVER G DISCONNECT THE CONNECTORS FOR PRINT BOARD F AND SLIDE VOLUME H NOTE TO DISCONNECT THE CONNECTORS REMOVE THE CIRCUIT BOARD COVER REFER TO PAGE 39 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 TO REPLACE FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE IN REVERSE SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 SERVICE
5. D TO LOOSEN THREAD TENSION DIAL PULL THIS WAY O SET AT Z 8 11 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT TO CHECK 1 2 RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER B THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT A AND THE NEEDLE PLATE SHOULD BE 6 0 MM 0 24 IF THIS IS NOT THE CASE ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 OPEN THE FACE COVER RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER B AND LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW D ON THE PRESSER BAR HOLDER E ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT A AND THE NEEDLE PLATE C TO 6 0 MM 0 24 TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW D SECURELY NOTE WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW D MAKE SURE THAT BOTH SIDES OF THE ZIGZAG FOOT A ARE PARALLEL WITH THE FEED DOG SLITS F FEED DOG SLITS Ay 6MM KEN SHOULD BE PARALLEL 12 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK IF THE NEEDLE BAR MOVES SIDEWAYS WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC IN ZIGZAG STITCHING ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS THE NEEDLE SHOULD START SWINGING 2 0 08 TO 3MM 0 12 ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE TOP COVER SEE P 6 SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT KE AND SELECT THE MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH LOOSEN THE TWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM WHILE HOLDING THE UPPER SHAFT WORM IN PLACE CAREFULLY TURN THE HANDWHEEL AND ADJUST I
6. OF PIN H AND THE END OF PIN 1 TOUCHES THE SURFACE OF THE GAUGE K TIGHTEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW M SECURELY 23 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING 1 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT lt gt AND THE ZIG ZAG WIDTH AT 6 5 PREPARATION 1 REMOVE THE NEEDLE PRESSER FOOT NEEDLE PLATE A AND BOBBIN HOLDER B 2 INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 468497 C SO THAT THE SMALL FINGER ON THE GAUGE FITS INTO THE SLOT NEAR THE TIP OF THE HOOK 3 PUT THE TEST PIN 68368 D IN TO THE NEEDLE HOLDER E PUSH UP IT UNTIL IT STOPS 4 TIGHTEN THE NEEDLE CLAMP SCREW F TO CHECK 1 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE TIP OF TEST PIN 468368 D SLIGHTLY TOUCHES THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68497 2 THE TIP OF TEST PIN 68368 D SHOULD BE BETWEEN THE TWO WHITE LINES OF THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68497 C IF THE TEST PIN DOES NOT FALL BETWEEN THE TWO WHITE LINES ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE ADJUST AS FOLLOWS 24 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE P 7 2 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES THE LOWEST POSITION 3 LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS G AND H 4 HOLD THE HANDWHEEL AND TURN THE LOWER SHAFT GEAR I UNTIL THE TEST PIN 68368 D COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO WHITE LINES OF THE RADI
7. ACCESS REAR PANEL TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER PART FROM THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER REAR PANEL UNIT 1 OPENTHE FACE COVER REMOVE THE TOP COVER UNIT SEE P 6 THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 AND THE FRONT COVER SEE P 9 3 REMOVE SETSCREWS AND AND LOOSEN SETSCREWS D E AND P 4 LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND PULL AWAY THE REAR PANEL UNIT FROM THE MACHINE FRAME TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER PART FROM THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER WHEN YOU REATTACH THE REAR PANEL PUT THE WINDOW ON THE PLASTIC PANEL OVER THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND THEN REPLACE THE SIX SCREWS 10 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION TO CHECK 1 2 SET THE TENSION DIAL AT 4 AND RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT PASS THE THREAD A BETWEEN THE DISCS AND DRAW THE THREAD A DOWN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER AS IN FIG 1 LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT AND BRING THE THREAD A UP THE TOP TENSION SHOULD BE BETWEEN 75 AND 90g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD A UP IN THE DIRECTION OF B USE POLYESTER SEWING THREAD 50 WHITE IF IT IS NOT WITHIN THE ABOVE LIMITS ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 REMOVE THE FRONT COVER UNIT SEE P 9 PULL THE SPRING C AWAY FROM THE LEAD SCREW D IF THE TOP TENSION IS TOO LOOSE TURN THE LEAD SCREW D IN THE DIRECTION OF E IF THE TOP TENSION IS TOO TIGHT TURN THE LEAD SCREW D IN THE DIRECTION OF F C DETACH i F
8. ADJUSTING SCREW C IN THE DIRECTION OF D WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT IS LOW OR IN THE DIRECTION OF E WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT IS HIGH TIGHTEN THE NUT A AND THE SETSCREW B SECURELY 21 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING 1 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT gt AND THE ZIG ZAG WIDTH AT 6 5 PREPARATION 1 REMOVE THE NEEDLE PRESSER FOOT NEEDLE PLATE A AND BOBBIN HOLDER B 2 INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 468497 C ONTO THE HOOK 3 ATTACH THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT GAUGE 68168 D PUSH IT UP UNTIL IT STOPS 4 TIGHTEN THE NEEDLE CLAMP SCREW E TO CHECK 1 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR F REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION IF THE FINGER G COMES DOWN ON TOP OF THE PIN H OR IF THE PIN 1 TOUCHES THE SURFACE OF THE GAUGE K TOO FORCEFULLY ADJUST IT IN ACCORDANCE THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE NEXT PAGE 2 THEFACE OF THE FINGER G SHOULD HIT THE SIDE OF PIN H AND THE END OF PIN 1 SHOULD TOUCH THE SURFACE OF THE GAUGE K WHEN THE NEEDLE BAR F REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 OPEN THE FACE COVER LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW ON THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER L MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR F UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE POSITION OF THE NEEDLE BAR F SO THAT THE FACE OF FINGER G HITS THE SIDE
9. AL TIMING GAUGE 68497 C 5 TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS G AND H G 25 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE TO CHECK 1 2 2 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN 68368 TURN THE HANDWHEEL SLOWLY BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE TEST PIN A AND THE SHARP END B OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK SHOULD BE BETWEEN 0 05 0 002 AND 0 10 MM 0 004 ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 4 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE P 7 LOOSEN SETSCREWS C D AND E TIGHTEN SETSCREW C TEMPORARILY MOVE THE PLATE F IN EITHER DIRECTION AS SHOWN BY THE ARROW UNTIL THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE TEST PIN A AND THE SHARP END B OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK BECOMES BETWEEN 0 05 AND 0 10 MM TIGHTEN THE SETSCREWS C D AND E SECURELY C B 26 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BACKLASH LOWER SHAFT GEAR TO CHECK 1 2 REMOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE AND BOBBIN HOLDER TURN THE HANDWHEEL SLOWLY TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE TIP OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK A IS BETWEEN BOTH ENDS B OF THE FEED DOG ROTATE THE HOOK RACE CLOCKWISE AND COUNTER CLOCKWISE BY HAND AND CHECK THE PLAY IT SHOULD BE WITHIN 0 8 MM 0 03 IF THERE IS MORE THAN A 0 8 MM 0 03 BACKLASH BETWEEN THE GEARS ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDUR
10. E 1 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE P 7 AND LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW C TURN THE LOWER SHAFT BUSHING ECCENTRIC BUSHING D IN DIRECTION E WHEN THE PLAY AT THE SHUTTLE HOOK TIP IS TOO SMALL TURN THE LOWER SHAFT BUSHING ECCENTRIC BUSHING D IN DIRECTION F WHEN THE PLAY AT THE SHUTTLE HOOK TIP IS TOO LARGE TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW C SECURELY AFTER ADJUSTMENT D LOWER SHAFT GEAR SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE TO CHECK 1 SET THE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS STITCH SELECTOR ll STITCH LENGTH CONTROL BLUE ZONE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL 6 5 2 ATTACH THE AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT 3 SEWABUTTONHOLE AND CHECK THE STITCH BALANCE BETWEEN THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDES OF THE BUTTONHOLE 4 THE CORRECT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE IS WHEN THERE IS THE SAME COARSE ON THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDES OF THE BUTTONHOLE I1 WIDTH O 1 2 3 4 5 6 5 STITCH WIDTH CONTROL STRETCH LENGTH y n s gt 3 4 6 D STITCH LENGTH CONTROL SELECTED PATTERN 28 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BED COVER SEE P 7 2 LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW A 3 IFTHERIGHT SIDE OF THE BUTTONHOLE IS TOO SPARSE TURN THE RING B IN THE DIRECTION OF C IF THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BUTTONHOLE IS TOO SPARSE TURN THE RING B IN THE DIRECTIO
11. HINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CIRCUIT BOARD B AND FUSE TO REPLACE THE CIRCUIT BOARD B REMOVE THE BASE PLATE SEE PAGE 7 REMOVE THE 3 SETSCREWS A REMOVE THE CIRCUIT BOX COVER B REMOVE THE 4 SETSCREWS C AND PULL OUT ALL THE CONNECTORS REPLACE THE CIRCUIT BOARD B D AND ATTACH IT WITH THE SETSCREWS C INSERT THE CONNECTORS SEE PAGE 41 FOR CONNECTOR LOCATION ATTACH THE CIRCUIT BOX COVER AND BASE PLATE MAO N TO REPLACE THE FUSE 1 PRY OUT THE FUSE E WITHA SCREWDRIVER 2 REPLACE THE FUSE E AND PUSH IT DOWN INTO THE FUSE CLIP F A b A 8 7 T E 250 V 2A D 40 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 1 LAMP CONNECTOR 2 TRANSFORMER CONNECTOR SECONDARY 3 MACHINE SOCKET CONNECTOR SECONDARY SLIDE VOLUME CONNECTOR UPPER SHAFT SENSOR CONNECTOR BH SELECTING SWITCH CONNECTOR BH LIMITER SWITCH CONNECTOR O R 41 12 MODEL 385 16231300 BOBBIN WINDING SWITCH CONNECTOR CIRCUIT BOARD F CONNECTOR 10 11 MOTOR CONNECTOR TRANSFORMER CONNECTOR PRIMARY MACHINE SOCKET CONNECTOR PRIMARY SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 REPLACEMENT OF TRANSFORMER TO REMOVE 1 REMOVE THE CIRCUIT BOARD COVER SEE PAGE 39 2 DISCONNECT THE TRANSFORMER CONNECTORS A FROM THE CIRCUIT BOARD B 3 REMOVE THE 2 SETSCREWS B AND REMOVE THE TRNSFORMER TOREPLACE FOLLOW THIS PROCEDU
12. HREADER HOOK THRUSTS OR HITS AGAINST EITHER LEFT OR RIGHT EDGE OF THE NEEDLE EYE LOOSEN THE SETSCREW C AND ADJUST THE POSITION OF THE THREADER PLATE H SEE FIG 2 2 IF THE THREADER HOOK THRUSTS AGAINST EITHER TOP OR BOTTOM EDGE OF THE NEEDLE EYE OR MISSES THE NEEDLE EYE OPEN THE FACE COVER AND LOOSEN THE SETSCREW D MOVE THE THREADER POSITION SETTING HOLDER E UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE HOOK POSITION D 38 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT THE HEIGHT OF THE NEEDLE POINT SHOULD BE 10 14 MM ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE WHEN THE MACHINE STOPS IF NOT CORRECT IT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 REMOVE THE TOP COVER SEE PAGE 6 TURN THE POWER SWITCH ON AND PRESS THE START STOP BUTTON TWICE TO STOP THE MACHINE WITH THE NEEDLE BAR AT THE UP POSITION IF THE NEEDLE POINT IS HIGHER THAN 14 MM LOOSEN THE SETSCREW C AND TURN THE UPPER SHAFT SHIELDING PLATE D IN THE DIRECTION OF A IF THE NEEDLE POINT IS LOWER THAN 10 MM LOOSEN THE SETSCREW C AND TURN THE UPPER SHAFT SHIELDING PLATE D IN THE DIRECTION OF B TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW PRESS THE START STOP BUTTON TWICE AND CHECK THE NEEDLE STOP POSITION ATTACH THE TOP COVER NOTE CHECK IF THE NEEDLE STOPS AT THE HEIGHT THAT ALLOWS THE NEEDLE THREADER TO WORK CORRECTLY AND THE NEEDLE THREAD TO SLIP INTO THE TAKE UP LEVER UPPER SHAFT SENSOR 0 10 14 39 SEWING MAC
13. ING NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN NEEDLE IS HITTING THE SHUTTLE THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING IT OR THE NEEDLE ZIGZAGS WHILE IN FABRIC FABRIC IS BEING PULLED TOO GUIDE THE FABRIC GENTLY STRONGLY WHILE SEWING WHILE SEWING SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX 6 NOISY 1 BACKLASH BETWEEN SEE MECHANICAL OPERATION SHUTTLE HOOK GEAR AND ADJUSTMENT BACKLASH LOWER SHAFT GEAR IS LOWER SHAFT GEAR GREAT LOWER SHAFT GEAR IS LOOSE INAPPROPRIATE BELT SEE MECHANICAL TENSION ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION OIL ALL MOVING PARTS ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS REFERENCE P 27 ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS NOT ENOUGH OIL UPPER SHAFT IS LOOSE INAPPROPRIATE FEED SEE MECHANICAL BALANCE ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STITCH BALANCE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION P 18 19 INAPPROPRIATE ZIGZAG SYNCHRONIZATION UPPER THREAD TENSION IS TOO STRONG 8 IMPROPER BUTTONHOLE STITCH BUTTONHOLE BALANCE IS NOT CORRECT SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE RESULTS STITCH BALANCE 2 IMPROPER SIZE ON AUTO SEE MECHANICAL BUTTONHOLE ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 1 3 CHANGING TO BAR TACK SEE MECHANICAL IS TO
14. MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK 1 2 3 4 SELECTED PATTERN STITCH WIDTH CONTROL SET THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO 0 AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT 3 RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION DROP THE FEED DOGS PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK THE NEEDLE POINT A ON A PIECE OF PAPER BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION TURN THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO 6 5 LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK THE NEEDLE POINTS AND ON THE PIECE OF PAPER BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL THE DISTANCE BETWEEN A B AND A C SHOULD BE EQUAL t WIDTH 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 5 16 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER AND LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW D 2 MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER E IN EITHER DIRECTION UNTIL THE DISTANCES A TO B AND A TO C BECOME EQUAL 3 TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW D SECURELY D 17 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STITCH BALANCE TO CHECK 1 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT STRETCH STITCH AND THE STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTER AT lt 2 PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT 3 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS ON THE PAPER
15. N OF D 4 TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW A SECURELY RING B HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW A INCORRECT CORRECT INCORRECT 29 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION TO CHECK 1 SET THE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS STITCH SELECTOR A STITCH WIDTH CONTROL 6 5 2 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO THE CENTER POSITION 3 THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT MOVE WHEN YOU TURN THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO O WIDTH 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 5 D SELECTED PATTERN STITCH WIDTH CONTROL 30 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 gt REMOVE THE TOP COVER SEE P 6 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO THE CENTER OF THE SLIT IN THE NEEDLE PLATE LOOSEN SETSCREWS A AND B TIGHTEN SETSCREW A SLIGHTLY MOVE THE PLATE C IN EITHER DIRECTION AS SHOWN BY THE ARROW UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES TO MOVE EVEN IF THE DIAL IS MOVED FROM MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH TO ZERO A B C 31 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT ZERO FEEDING TO CHECK 1 SET THE STITCH SELECTOR TO lt gt AND THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL TO 0 2 PLACEA PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE 3 CHECK IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN YOU TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU 4 THE MACHINE SHOULD NOT FEED A PIECE OF PAPER AT THIS SETTING
16. O EARLY OR WILL NOT ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE WORK FUNCTION 2 SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 3 THE MACHINE STOPS TOO EARLY OR TOO LATE OR DOES NOT STOP SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 THREADING OF MACHINE THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS DOTTED LINES SHOW THE PLACES WHERE THE THREAD LOOPS AND IS THEN PULLED TIGHT RAISE THE TAKE UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER PLACE THE SPOOL ON A PIN WITH THE THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOOL 1 DRAW THE THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE 2 HOLDING THE THREAD TAUT WITH YOUR RIGHT HAND DRAW THE THREAD DOWN INTO THE TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER 3 FIRMLY DRAW THE THREAD UP AND THROUGH THE TAKE UP LEVER FROM RIGHT TO LEFT 4 PULL THE THREAD TO THE LEFT AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD GUIDE 5 THREAD THE NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK NOTE YOU MAY WANT TO CUT THE END OF THE THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS FOR EASIER NEEDLE THREADING SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 SERVICE ACCESS FACE COVER 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER A 2 REMOVE THE SETSCREWS B 3 TAKE THE FACE COVER A OFF TOP COVER 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER A 2 REMOVE SETSCREWS B AND C 3 TAKE THE TOP COVER D OFF SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 SERVICE ACCESS BASE PLATE 1
17. RE IN REVERSE 8 42 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION TO CHECK 1 IF THE MOTOR BELT TENSION IS TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE IT MAY CAUSE THE BELT TO MAKE NOISE A TOO TIGHT BELT TENSION CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN SLOWLY AND WILL OVERLOAD THE MOTOR A TOO LOOSE MOTOR BELT TENSION MAY CAUSE THE BELT TEETH TO JUMP OVER THE PULLEY THE CORRECT MOTOR BELT TENSION IS ACHIEVED WHEN THE BELT IS PUSHED IN ABOUT 7MM 0 28 9MM 0 36 UNDER A PRESSURE OF ABOUT 300 GRAMS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 REMOVE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 LOOSEN SETSCREWS A AND B MOVE THE MOTOR UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE DEFLECTION TO ABOUT 7MM 0 28 9MM 0 36 TIGHTEN SETSCREWS A AND B A 300g LOAD DEFLECTION 7 9 MM 8 43 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 OILING FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTS WILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING WITHOUT ROUTINE OILING BUT YOU SHOULD STILL CHECK FOR POSSIBLE LUBRICATION NEEDS WHENEVER SERVICING THE MACHINES OIL USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS B C D E F amp G INDICATED BY THE BLACK ARROWS GREASE USE WHITE GREASE SUCH AS MOLYCOTE EM 40M AT THE POINTS H I amp J INDICATED BY THE WHITE ARROWS SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 SPECIAL TOOLS REOUIRED FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE 68496 SLOTTED SCREW DRIVER NEEDLE HEIGHT GAUGE 68168
18. SERVICE MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385 16231400 OCTOBER 2003 CONTENTS LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS u uu nn WHAT TO DO WHEN THREADING OF MACHINE l u I nn nuna SERVICE ACCESS FACE COVER 2 TOP COVER Leek FRONT COVER maksais abit Ree A reso PED DR cd MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION sisi spa serene sene od ibis FEED DOG HEIGHT tine ettet tr tei kie nint evi a NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT 4020 NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING eese eene teen NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE eese BACKLASH LOWER SHAFT GEAR BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE nn BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 1 maa n ene BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 2 BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 3 nm NEEDLE THREADER PLATE inner NEEDLE STOP POSITION sateen va aan rentrer PRINT BOARD AND V1 0 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS Thread Spool Pin A 2 Bobbin Winding Spindle Upper Thread Guide Thread Take up Lever Stich Width Control Stitch Length Control Thread Tension Dial Stich Length Setting Display Face Cover Plate Stitch Width Setting Display Thread Cutter Needle Threader Needle Plate Speed Control Lever Reverse Contro Bution Up down Needle Button St
19. T SO THAT THE LATERAL NEEDLE SWING STARTS FROM A POSITION 2MM 0 08 TO 3MM 0 12 ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE IN RIGHT OUTFLOW TIGHTEN THE TWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM ATTACH THE TOP COVER UNIT NOTE FOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE TOP COVER UNIT REFER TO PAGE 2 AFTER THE TIMING ADJUSTMENT OF THE LATERAL NEEDLE SWING MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO BACKLASH BETWEEN THE UPPER SHAFT WORM AND THE OTHER GEAR AND THAT A SMOOTH ROTATION IS OBTAINED THE BACKLASH THE BACKLASH UPPER SHAFT IS DECREASED 16 INCREASED NOTE MAKE SURE THE WORM DOES NOT MOVE S DEWAYS WHEN TURNING THE UPPER SHAFT OTHERWISE THE BACKLASH BETWEEN THE WORM AND THE GEAR WILL CHANGE RIGHT OUTFLOW START POSITION SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRAIGHT STITCHING TO CHECK 1 SET THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL AT 0 AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT 3 2 TURN THE HANDWHEEL BY HAND 3 THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT SWING SIDE TO THE SIDE AT THIS SETTING 11 WIDTH 0 1 2 37747757 6 5 EDO SELECTED PATTERN STITCH WIDTH CONTROL 14 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRAIGHT STITCHING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 2 3 REMOVE THE TOP COVER SEE P 6 LOOSEN SETSCREW A MOVE THE ZIGZAG WIDTH ROD B UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES ITS ZIGZAG MOVEMENT WHEN YOU TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU RETIGHTEN SETSCREW A SECURELY 15 SEWING
20. TH NEEDLE AND BOBBIN THREAD UNDER THE FOOT WHEN STARTING SEWING FEED DOG TEETH ARE CHANGE THE FEED DOG WORN SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 3 BREAKING INITIAL SEWING SPEED IS START WITH MEDIUM SPEED UPPER TOO FAST THREAD THREAD PATH IS INCORRECT NEEDLE IS BENT OR DULL UPPER THREAD TENSION IS TOO STRONG NEEDLE SIZE IS INAPPROPRIATE FOR FABRIC NEEDLE EYE IS WORN NEEDLE HOLE IN NEEDLE PLATE IS WORN OR BURRED REFERENCE USE THE PROPER THREAD PATH REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE ADJUST UPPER THREAD TENSION CORRECTLY USE APPROPRIATE NEEDLE FOR FABRIC AND THREAD IN USE CHANGE THE NEEDLE REPAIR THE HOLE OR REPLACE THE NEEDLE PLATE 4 BREAKING BOBBIN THREAD INCORRECTLY THREADED BOBBIN TOO MUCH THREAD IS ON THE BOBBIN LINT IS STUCK INSIDE THE BOBBIN HOLDER THREAD QUALITY IS TOO LOW THREAD IS JAMMING AROUND THE BOBBIN THREAD BOBBIN CORRECTLY ADJUST THE POSITION OF STOPPER CLEAN THE SHUTTLE CHANGE TO A HIGHER QUALITY SEWING THREAD CLEAR OUT THE JAMMING THREAD 5 NEEDLE BREAKS NEEDLE IS HITTING THE NEEDLE PLATE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION CHANGE THE NEEDLE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SW
21. TOO EARLY OR TOO LATE CORRECT IT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 OPENTHE FACE COVER 2 LOOSEN THE SETSCREW A 3 IF THE MACHINE STOPS TOO EARLY MOVE THE ADJUSTING PLATE B IN THE DIRECTION OF C 4 IFTHE MACHINE STOPS TOO LATE OR DOES NOT STOP MOVE THE ADJUSTING PLATE B IN THE DIRECTION OF D 5 TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTING SCREW A 6 ATTACH THE FACE COVER NOTE IF THE MACHINE WILL NOT STOP WHEN PUSHING THE BH LEVER IN THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROW ADJUST THE POSITIONNN OF THE MICRO SWITCH AS FOLLOWS 1 SEWUP TO STEP 4 AND STOP THE MACHINE REMOVE THE BELT COVER 2 LOOSEN THE SET SCREW E ADJUST THE GAP TO 1 MM BY SHIFTING THE SWITCH HOLDER F SO THE MICRO SWITCH G IS ON TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW E 3 SEWATEST BUTTONHOLE TO CHECK IF THE MACHINE STOPS AUTOMATICALLY 4 ATTACH THE BELT COVER MICRO SWITCH SHOULD BE ON AT THIS POSITION MACHINE STOPS STITCHES ATALOW EARLY SPEED THEN STOPS AUTOMATICALLY 4 MACHINE SEWS A FEW 8 1 MM GAP A BH LEVER 37 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE THREADER TO REPLACE PRY OUT THE THREADER PLATE HOLDER A WITH A SCREWDRIVER WHILE PUSHING AND HOLDING THE THREADER KNOB DOWN ALIGN THE GROOVE ON THE NEW THREADER PLATE HOLDER A WITH THE PIN B ON THE THREADER SHAFT PUSH THE THREADER PLATE HOLDER C UP UNTILIT SNAPS IN PLACE A ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 IF THE T
22. WITH THE AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT WILL BE 3MM 0 12 LONGER THAN THE ACTUAL BUTTON THIS LENGTH CAN BE ADJUSTED AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 BH LEVER ADJUSTING PLATE C LOWER THE FEED DOG AND ATTACH THE BH FOOT R THEN LOWER THE PRESSER BAR LOOSEN SETSCREW A PULL DOWN THE BH LEVER UNTIL IT TOUCHES FOOT R AND THE BAR B HITS THE FRONT BASE PLATE ALSO MAKE SURE THE BH LEVER ADJUSTING PLATE C TOUCHES THE FINGER D TIGHTEN SETSCREW A RAISE THE FEED DOG AND SEW A BUTTONHOLE THEN CHECK THE LENGTH of SHORT STANDARD LONG FRONT BASE PLATE ELING BARIA HITTING FRONT BASE PLATE TOUCHING D TOUCHING BH FOOT R 35 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 2 IF THE BAR TACK ON THE BUTTONHOLE OCCURS TOO EARLY OR IF NO BAR TACK IS SEWN AT ALL ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 2 A IF THE BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO EARLY TURN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E IN DIRECTION C B IF THE BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO LATE TURN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E IN DIRECTION D 3 ATTACH THE BELT COVER SEE P 8 BAR TACK IS SEWN BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO EARLY TOO LATE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E 2 36 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION 3 THE MACHINE WILL STOP AUTOMATICALLY WHEN BUTTONHOLE IS COMPLETED IF THE MACHINE STOPS
23. art stop Button Hook Cover Plate Extension Table Accessory Box Buttonhole Lever Presser Foot Lifter Free Arm Stitch Pattern Selector Feed Balancing Dial Drop Feed Lever Power Switch Nomenclature Plate Machine Socket Thumb Screw b Needle Clamp Screw SAPON pulton Presser Foot SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 16231300 WHAT TO DO WHEN CONDITION HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 1 SKIPPING NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY STITCHES PROPERLY NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN CHANGE THE NEEDLE INCORRECTLY THREADED RETHREAD NEEDLE OR THREAD ARE USE THE RECOMMENDED INAPPROPRIATE FOR SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD FABRIC BEING SEWN SEWING ON STRETCH USE 11 BLUE TIP NEEDLE FABRIC PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE ADJUST THE PRESSER BAR IS TOO WEAK LEVEL TO MAKE THE PRESSURE STRONGER INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE SEE MECHANICAL BAR HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE SEE MECHANICAL TO SHUTTLE TIMING ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE SEE MECHANICAL TO SHUTTLE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE 2 FABRIC NOT 1 PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE ADJUST THE PRESSER BAR MOVING IS TOO WEAK LEVEL TO MAKE THE PRESSURE STRONGER INCORRECT F D HEIGHT SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT F D IS IN DOWN POSITION RAISE THE F D LEVEL THREAD ON BOTTOM SIDE MAKE SURE TO BRING OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP BO
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