SERVICE MANUAL
Contents
1. TIGHTEN THE SCREW FIRMLY ATTACH THE REAR COVER NOTE THE BACKLASH PLAY SHOULD BE LESS THAN 0 3MM AND LOWER SHAFT TURNS SMOOTHLY AFTER THE ADJUSTMENT CHECK THE HOOK TIMING i C SET SCREW A 0 05 0 10MM 2 ay i CLEARANCE SHOU D BE EQUAL wk Sh SHUTTLE RACE SPRING BUSHING FRONT 17 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING 1 STITCH LENGTH SET AT 4 2 NEEDLE BAR AT ITS HIGHEST POSITION TO CHECK 1 RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT 2 PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE 68367 A ON THE NEEDLE PLATE 3 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND AND CHECK THE FEED DOG HEIGHT REFER TO CHART BELOW ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER 2 LOOSEN THE SCREW B AND TURN THE ECCENTRIC PIN C IN EITHER DIRECTION TO ADUST THE FEED DOG HEIGHT AS REQUIRED 3 TIGHTEN THE SCREW B SECURELY GAUG EFEED DOG HEIGHT FACE A FACE B RED 1 25 1 00MM NOT MOVING MOVING CORRECT NOT MOVING NOT MOVING MOVING MOVING HIGH A 68367 Se 18 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING 1 STITCH SELECTOR Eign 2 WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL SET AT 5 TO CHECK 1 OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER 2 REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN 468368 3 REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68366 ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER 4 TURN THE HANDW2. NEEDLE BAR THREADER PLATE C X VIEW SETSCREW D 27 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 WIRING 1 WIRING FOR MACHINE SOCKET UNIT RIDGE MOTOR L LAMP RIDGE M L 2 WIRING DIAGRAM FOOT CONTROL MOTOR ATTACHMENT CAP LAMP SOCKET a L 22clocecesscui 4 p MOTOR ram E E S 28 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 OILING FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTS WILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING WITHOUT ROUTINE OILING HOWEVER WHENEVER THE MACHINE 15 BEING SERVICED CHECK TO SEE IF ANY PARTS NEED TO BE LUBRICATED OIL USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS D INDICATED BY BLACK ARROWS GREASE WHITE GREASE IS RECOMMENDED FOR USE ON GEARS AND CAM SURFACES IT IS AN IMPROVED GREASE AND IT CAN BE USED ON THE METAL AND PLASTIC PARTS WHICH POINTS ARE INDICATED BY THE WHITE ARROWS F G amp H HOW TO ORDER PARTS NO DESCRIPTION PRICE SEWING MACHINE OIL EM 40M WHITE GREASE ORDER THROUGH YOUR RPDC IN THE USUAL MANNER DIVISION 20 SOURCE 158 a z _ Yu ZK ko PONE D ACC a F la m _ A E B TY mu Po SNM r E A lt a _ I 5 M s E T rm i oh LC i fi TN a as ZE a T 7 C cin EGM s Mad NE
3. IT CAN CAUSE THE BELT TEETH ON THE MOTOR PULLEY TO JUMP 2 THE CORRECT MOTOR BELT TENSION 18 WHEN THE DEFLECTION OF MOTOR BELT IS ABOUT 7MM 0 28 9MM 0 36 WHEN PUSHING THE MOTOR BELT BY FINGER WITH A 300 GRAM LOAD ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE REAR COVER SEE PAGE 10 2 LOOSEN THE SCREWS A AND B 3 MOVE THE MOTOR UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE DEFLECTION ABOUT 7MM 0 28 9MM 0 36 4 TIGHTEN THE SCREWS A AND B DEFLECTION 7 9 MM 3009 LOAD A B 26 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TO REPLACE NEEDLE THREADER PLATE TO REMOVE 1 REMOVE THE FOOT HOLDER 2 PULL OUT THE THREADER PLATE UNIT A TO ATTACH 3 PUSH THE THREADER PLATE UNIT A UP TO SNAP IT WITH THE PIN B AS SHOWN IN FIG 1 4 ATTACH THE FOOT HOLDER TO ADJUST THE POSITION OF THE THREADER PLATE C IF THE THREADER PLATE 15 SLIGHLY OUT OF ALIGNMENT LOOSEN THE SETSCREW D AND ADJUST THE POSITION AS SHOWN IN FIG 2 THE ABOVE WAY OF ADJUTMENT IS NOT APPLICABLE MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT AS SHOWN IN FIG 3 AS FOLLOWS 1 OPEN THE FACE PLATE 2 WHEN THE THREADER PLATE 15 TOO HIGH LOOSEN THE HAXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E AND LOWER THE POSITIONING PLATE F TOO LOW LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW E AND RAISE THE POSITIONING PLATE F 3 TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW G FIG 1 FIG 3 PIN B THREADER PLATE UNIT A HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW SETTING PLATE F
4. ATE THE LOOSENESS OIL ALL MOVING PARTS SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISENGAGEMENT OF FOLLOWER ADJUST UPPER THREAD TENSION CORRECTLY SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTORTED PATTERN SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 SERVICE ACCESS FACE COVER 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER A 2 REMOVE THE SCREWS B 3 TAKE THE FACE COVER A OFF SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 SERVICE ACCESS FRONT COVER TO REMOVE 1 LOOSEN THE SET SCREWS A B AND AND THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER BY REMOVING THE SET SCREWS D E F G H I AND J NOTE UNHOOK THE TAB L FROM THE REAR COVER WHEN REMOVING THE FRONT COVER TO ATTACH 2 FOLLOW THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN REVERSE SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 SERVICE ACCESS REAR COVER REAR COVER TO REMOVE 1 REMOVE THE FACE COVER AND FRONT COVER SEE PAGE 8 9 2 LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS A B AND C AND REMOVE SETSCREWS D E AND F 3 PULL UP THE SPOOL PINS REMOVE THE MACHINE SOCKET REMOVE THE REAR COVER CLEARING THE PRESSER FOOT LIFTER FROM THE SLIT ON THE COVER TO ATTACH 4 FOLLOW THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN REVRSE 10 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION TO CHECK THE STANDARD UPPER THREAD TENSION SHOULD 65 95g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD COTTON THREAD 50 IN THE DIRECTION OF WITH SETTI
5. C IN CASE OF A RIGHT STITCHES ARE ROUGH OR IN THE DIRECTION OF D IN CASE OF B LEFT STITCHES ARE ROUGH 3 MOUNT THE CAP gt gt D C CAP Te ER A NOTCH ADJUSTING SCREW FORWARD FEEDING BACKWARD FEEDING 22 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BARTACK FEED OF BUTTONHOLE TO CHECK IF THE MATERIAL IS FEED FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN SEWING BARTACK ON BUTTONHOLE MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 AND THE STITCH LENGTH SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR CONTROL CONTROL AT 4 REMOVE THE FRONT COVER SEE PAGE 9 3 PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER UNDER THE FOOT AND TURN THE HANDWHEEL THE PAPER IS FEED FORWARD TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF C THE PAPER IS FEED BACKWARD TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF D 4 MOUNT THE FRONT COVER D C ADJUSTING SCREW FORWARD BACKWARD FEEDING 23 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTUNHOLE FUNCTION TO CHECK BOTTONHOLES SHOULD BE ABOUT 3MM LONGER THAN THE LENGTH SET BY THE R FOOT IF THIS LENGTH CANNOT BE OBTAINED THEN CHECK AND ADJUST AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER 2 TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF A IF THE BUTTONHOLE STITCH LENGTH IS LONGER THAN THE STANDARD OR IN THE DIRECTION OF B IF THE BUTTONHOLE STITCH LENGTH I
6. DER ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PRESSER FOOT D AND THE NEEDLE PLATE E TO 6 0MM 0 24 3 TIGHTEN THE SCREW C SECURELY 4 TIGHTEN THE SCREW B TO SECURE THE LAMP SOCKET NOTE WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE SCREW B MAKE SURE THAT BOTH SIDES OF THE PRESSER FOOT ARE PARALLEL TO THE FEED DOG SLOTS F ON THE NEEDLE PLATE 13 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING ACCORDING TO THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE IF THE NEEDLE BAR STARTS MOVING SIDEWAYS WHILE THE NEEDLE S IN THE FABRIC AT SEWING THE ZIGZAG PATTERN WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH AND REMOVE THE FRONT COVER SEE PAGE 9 LOOSEN TWO SET SCREWS 3 ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL WHILE HOLDING THE WORM SO AS NOT TO ROTATE IT UNTIL THE NEEDLE SWING STARTS AT 2 3MM ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AFTER THE NEEDLE HAS COME OUT OF THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE NEEDLE HOLE 4 TIGHTEN TWO SET SCREWS 5 MOUNT THE FRONT COVER NOTE AFTER ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE SWING CHECK THAT THE UPPER SHAFT WORM AND GEAR ROTATE SMOOTHLY WITHOUT ANY BACKLASH BETWEEN THEM GEAR UPPER SHAFT WORM SET SCREW 2 PCS 2 3 14 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE DROP TO CHECK WHEN THE NEEDLE SWINGS IN MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE BOTH ENDS OF NEEDLE HOL
7. E ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND THE NEEDLE DROP POSITIONS SHOULD BE EQUAL IF NOT MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 ST OPEN THE FACE PLATE SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH LOOSEN THE SET SCREW TURN THE ECCENTRIC PIN TO ADJUST THE NEEDLE DROP TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW NOTE CHECK THE HOOK TIMING AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT ECCENTRIC PIN s SET SCREW z 29 y 4 BOTH CLEARANCE SHOULD BE EQUAL 15 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK 1 TO CHECK THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE 0 05 0 10MM IF NOT MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 OPEN THE FACE COVER 2 SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL C 2 WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL AT 0 3 LOOSEN SET SCREW A AND MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO ARROWS TO GET CLEARANCE BETWEEN 0 05 TO 0 10MM WHEN CLEARANCE IS TOO WIDE MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER DIRECTION B WHEN CLEARANCE IS TOO NARROW MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER DIRECTION NOTE AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT CHECK IF THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND NEEDLE PLATE IS MORE THAN 0 15MM AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 0 NOT ADJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE BY USING METHOD OF ADJUSTMENT NO 2 IN PAGE 13 AFTER READJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND NEEDLE PLATE MORE THAN 0 15MM SET SCREW A DIREC
8. ED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 468366 B 4 TIGHTEN THE SCREWS C AND D SECURELY 5 ATTACH THE FRONT COVER THE BASE PLATE AND THE BELT COVER THIS END OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK DRIVER IS TO B TOUCHING TO THE GAUGE 20 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTORTED PATTERN TO CHECK IF THE STRETCH STITCH PATTERNS ARE DISTORTED WITH SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL W IN CASE OF BEING A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FORWARD FEEDING AND BACKWARD FEEDING DURING STRETCH STITCH PATTERNS MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE CAP 2 SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR CONTROL ciiD AND THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT W 3 TURN THE STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF C WHEN A gt B OR IN THE DIRECTION OF D WHEN A lt B 4 MOUNT THE CAP D UP d NOTCH STRECH STITCH ADJUSTING SCREW 21 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FEED BALANCE TO CHECK WHEN SEWING BUTTONHOLE THE STITCHES ON EACH SIDE OF BUTTONHOLE SHOULD BE THE SAME STITCH DENSITY THE RANGE OF 9 12 STITCHES IN THE RIGHT SIDE ROW BACKWARD FEEDING AGAINST 10 STITCHES IN THE LEFT SIDE ROW FORWARD FEEDING IS CONSIDERED ACCEPTABLE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 CONFIRM THE STITCHES BY SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND REMOVE THE CAP 2 TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF
9. HEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION 5 THE OF THE TEST PIN 68368 A SHOULD BE IN BETWEEN THE TWO HORIZONTAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 468366 B ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 LOOSEN THE SCREW C OF THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER D 2 MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR E UP OR DOWN BY HAND UNTIL THE OF THE TEST PIN 68368 A COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO HORIZONTAL PARALLEL LINES ENGRAVE ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 468366 B 3 TIGHTEN THE SCREW C SECURELY B 468366 H E C JE 2 N er THIS END OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK DRIVER IS TO i D 1 TOUCH THE GAUGE TT E SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE MACHINE SETTING 1 STITCH SELECTOR pem so 2 WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL SET AT 5 TO CHECK 1 OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER 2 REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN 68368 A 3 REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68366 B ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER 4 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION 5 THETIP OF THE TEST PIN 268368 A SHOULD BE IN BETWEEN THE TWO VERTICAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68366 ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE BELT COVER AND THE FRONT COVER 2 LOOSEN THE SCREWS C AND D 3 ROTATE THE SHUTTLE DRIVER UNTIL THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN 68368 A COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO VERTICAL LINES ENGRAV
10. I i LENT 29 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED S SLOTTED SCREW DRIVER FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE 68367 PHILIPS SCREW DRIVER TEST PIN 68368 ALIEN WRENCH RADIAL TIMING GAUGE 68366 30
11. NG THE TENSION DIAL AT 3 MAKE SURE THE FOOT SHOULD BE LOWERED IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE STANDARD RANGE ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 REMOVE THE FRONT COVER UNIT SEE PAGE 9 2 TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT C IN THE DIRECTION OF D WHEN THE UPPER THREAD TENSION 15 TOO TIGHT TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT C IN THE DIRECTION OF E WHEN THE UPPER THREAD TENSION 15 TOO LOOSE 3 ATTACH THE FRONT COVER UNIT 11 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BOBBIN TENSION TO CHECK SET THE BOBBIN IN THE BOBBIN CASE AND PASS THE THREAD COTTON 50 THROUGH THE TENSION SPRING THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 45 55g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD IN THE DIRECTION OF B THE TENSION 18 OUT OF THE RANGE ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW C IN THE DIRECTION OF D WHEN THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION IS TOO TIGHT 2 TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW C IN THE DIRECTION OF E WHEN THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION IS TOO LOOSE COTTON THREAD 50 12 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT TO CHECK 1 RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER A 2 THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PRESSER FOOT D AND THE NEEDLE PLATE SHOULD BE 6 0MM 0 24 ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 4 REMOVE THE SCREW B AND TAKE THE LAMP SOCKET OFF 2 RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND LOOSEN THE SCREW C ON THE PRESSER BAR HOL
12. RIC INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE TO HOOK TIMING INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE TO HOOK CLEARANCE INCORRECT F D HEIGHT THREAD ON BOTTOM SIDE OF FABRIC 15 JAMMED UP FEED DOG TEETH ARE WORN INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY CHANGE THE NEEDLE RETHREAD USE THE RECOMMENDED SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD USE A 11 BLUE TIP NEEDLE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT MAKE SURE TO BRING BOTH NEEDLE AND BOBBIN THREAD UNDER THE FOOT WHEN STARTING SEWING CHANGE THE FEED DOG SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 3 BREAKING INITIAL SEWING SPEED IS START WITH MEDIUM SPEED UPPER p FAST THREAD THREAD PATH 15 USE THE PROPER THREAD INCORRECT PATH NEEDLE 15 BENT OR DULL REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE UPPER THREAD TENSION 18 ADJUST UPPER THREAD TOO STRONG TENSION CORRECTLY NEEDLE SIZE 15 USE APPROPRIATE NEEDLE INAPPROPRIATE FOR AND THREAD FOR FABRIC FABRIC IN USE NEEDLE EYE 15 WORN CHANGE THE NEEDLE NEEDLE HOLE IN NEEDLE REPAIR THE HOLE OR PLATE IS WORN OR BURRED REPLACE THE NEEDLE PLATE 4 BREAKING INCORRECTLY THREADED THREAD BOBBIN CASE BOBBIN BOBBIN CASE CORRECTLY THREAD TOO MUCH THREAD IS ADJUS
13. S SHORTER THAN THE STANDARD STANDARD ABOUT OO ADJUSTING SCREW BUTTONHOLE 1 LEVER l 24 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM FOLLOWER TO CHECK TOO NARROW CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE CAM FOLLOWER AND THE CONVEX OF ZIGZAG CAM MAY OFTEN CAUSE DIFFICULTY IN TURNING OF THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL OR CAN NOT CORRECT PATTERN ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 3 SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL C D AND SET THE STITCH WIDTH AT 5 REMOVE THE FRONT COVER SEE PAGE 9 PUT THE CAM FOLLOWER TO THE ZIGZAG CAM STRAIGHT CAM AND ALSO PUT THE CAM FOLLOWER RELEASING ARM TO THE PATTERN SELECT CAM LOOSEN THE SETSCREW MOVE ADJUSTING PLATE IN THE DIRECTION OF ARROW UNTIL TO TOUCH TO THE RELEASING ARM AND TIGHTEN SETSCREW NOTE AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT CHECK THAT THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG CAM AND THE CAM FOLLOWER IS 0 3MM WHEN PUTTING THE CAM FOLLOWER RELEASING ARM ONTO POSITION A OF PATTERN SELECT CAM ATTACH THE FRONT COVER 0 3mm ZZ CAM RELEAS ARM SETSCREW A PATTERN SELECTOR CAM ADJUSTING crs a RELEASE ARM 25 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION TO CHECK 1 IF THE MOTOR BELT TENSION IS TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE IT CAN CAUSE BELT NOISE IF THE TENSION 15 TOO TIGHT IT CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN SLOWLY AND THE MOTOR TO OVERLOAD IF THE TENSION IS TOO LOOSE
14. SERVICE MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385 15218400 OCTOBER 2003 CONTENTS LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE 1 WIND THE BOBBIN aks 2 PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD 3 STITCH SELECTOR STITCH LENGTH STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS 4 WHAT TO DO WHEN u u ia 5 7 SERVICE ACCESS COVER vs 8 FRONT COVER mn duet bete n ell Eod m eie CZAI 9 REAR COVER uu O did a da esten ad 10 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOF TENSION Pc 11 TEN 12 PRESSER BAR HEIGHT ALIGNMENT 13 NEEDLE SWING use eden 14 VEE NR PA 15 CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK NO 1 16 CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK NO 2 17 PEED DOG HEG ve 18 NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT se 19 NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUT TEE see 20 DISTORTED PATTERN veve 21 BUT FONHOLE FEED BALANCE suppen 22 BARTACGK FEED OF BUTTONHOLE sa 23 BUFFONHOLEFUNG HON EA erae R OEB AE 24 DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM FOLLOWER 25 MOTOR BELT PENSION ir us aras R AM AE 26 TO REPLACE NEEDLE THREADER PLATE 27 WIRING e OZ A z Z E 28 een rr E Re 29 SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED 2 30 1 0 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS Bobbin Winder Thread guide Spool Pins Babb
15. T THE POSITION OF AROUND ON THE BOBBIN STOPPER LINT IS STUCK INSIDE THE CLEAN THE HOOK RACE BOBBIN HOLDER THREAD QUALITY IS CHANGE TO A HIGH QUALITY TOO LOW SEWING THREAD THREAD 15 JAMMING CLEAR OUT THE JAMMING AROUND THE BOBBIN THREAD BOBBIN THREAD TENSION IS ADJUST BOBBIN THREAD TOO STRONG TENSION CORRECTLY 5 NEEDLE NEEDLE 15 HITTING THE SEE MECHANICAL BREAKS NEEDLE PLATE ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE DROP NEEDLE 15 BENT OR WORN CHANGE THE NEEDLE NEEDLE 15 HITTING THE SEE MECHANICAL HOOK RACE ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE SEE MECHANICAL THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING IT OR THE NEEDLE ZIGZAGS WHILE IN FABRIC FABRIC IS BEING PULLED TOO GUIDE THE FABRIC GENTLY STRONGLY WHILE SEWING WHILE SEWING SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 6 NOISY OPERATION 7 DEFORMATION PATTERN BACKLASH BETWEEN SHUTTLE HOOK GEAR AND LOWER SHAFT GEAR IS TOO GREAT LOWER SHAFT GEAR 15 LOOSE INAPPROPRIATE BELT TENSION UPPER SHAFT GEAR IS LOOSE NOT ENOUGH OIL INAPPROPRIATE ZIGZAG SYNCHRONIZATION INAPPROPRIATE DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM FOLLOWER UPPER THREAD TENSION IS TOO STRONG INAPPROPRIATE FEED BALANCE SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK NO 2 ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION ELIMIN
16. THREAD THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS DOTTED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN IS PULLED TIGHT RAISE THE TAKE UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER PLACE SPOOL ON PIN WITH THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOOL DRAW THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE HOLDING THREAD TAUT WITH RIGHT HAND DRAW THREAD DOWN INTO THE TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER FIRMLY DRAW THREAD UP AND THROUGH THE TAKE UP LEVER FROM RIGHT TO LEFT DRAW THE THREAD DOWN AND SLIP IT INTO THE LOWER THREAD GUIDE DRAW THREAD DOWN AGAIN AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD GUIDE TREAD NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK NOTE YOU MAY WANT TO CUT THE END OF THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS FOR EASIER NEEDLE THREADING SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 STITCH SELECTOR STITCH LENGTH STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS SETTING MARK M Mm qu quo Qj m STITCH LENGTH 3 1 0 SETTING MARK STRETCH S TO SELECT STRETCH STITCHES SET ND iB THIS CONTROL AT W POSITION pz 6 Setting Mark SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 1 SKIPPING STITCHES 2 FABRIC NOT MOVING MODEL 385 15218400 WHAT TO DO WHEN NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED PROPERLY NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN INCORRECTLY THREADED NEEDLE OR THREAD ARE INAPPROPRIATE FOR FABRIC BEING SEWN SEWING ON STRETCH FAB
17. TION DIRECTION B NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER O 05 40 10MM FIGURE D CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND NEEDLE PLATE IS MORE THAN 0 75MM 16 SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK NO 2 TO CHECK USE THIS ADJUSTMENT NO 2 WHEN ADJUSTMENT 1 CAN BE USED THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD 0 05 0 10mm ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1 ene MN 4 gt wy dk ue Q i NEEDLE SHUTTLE RACE 5 SET SCREW B 2 PCS LOWER SHAFT SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT C gt WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL AT REMOVE THE REAR COVER SEE PAGE 10 LOOSEN THE SCREW A ON LOWER SHAFT BUSHING AND SLIDE THE GEAR ABOUT 0 5MM TO THE RIGHT TO MAKE A SLACK BETWEEN GEARS LOWER THE NEEDLE AND LOOSEN THE TWO SHUTTLE RACE SET SCREWS B MOVE THE SHUTTLE RACE UNIT AXIALLY EITHER FORWARD OR BACKWARD TO ADJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND THE SHUTTLE RACE IN THE RANGE OF 0 05 0 10MM SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL TURN THE BALANCE WHEEL CHECK IF THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND INNER EDGES OF THE SHUTTLE RACE SPRING AT THE LEFT AND RIGHT NEEDLE DROPS ARE EQUAL IF NOT MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT BY TURNING THE SHUTTLE RACE UNIT TIGHTEN THE TWO SHUTTLE RACE SET SCREWS LOOSEN THE SET SCREW ON LOWER SHAFT BUSHING AND SLIDE THE GEAR BACK TO THE ORIGINAL POSITION WHILE ADJUSTING THE BACKLASH
18. in Winding Spindle Bobbin Winding Stopper Thread Guide Thread Lever Top thread tension Control Stitch Length Control Stitch Width Control Face Plate Pattern Selector Dial Thread Cutter Needle Threader Reverse Stitch Button Needle Plate Extension Table Accessory storage box Foot Folder Carrying Handle Presser Foot Handwheel Presser Foot Lifter Buttonhole Lever Free Arm Power Switch Machine Socket SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 WIND THE BOBBIN 1 PULL THE HANDWHEEL OUT DRAW THREAD FROM SPOOL THROUGH BOBBIN WINDING TENSION DISCS 3 PULL END OF THREAD THROUGH BOBBIN AS SHOWN PLACE BOBBIN ONTO BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE B WITH END OF THREAD COMING FROM THE TOP OF THE BOBBIN PUSH BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE TO THE RIGHT UNTIL IT CLICKS 4 HOLDING THE END OF THREAD START MACHINE WHEN BOBBIN 15 SLIGHTLY FILLED SNIP OFF THE END OF THREAD 5 WIND THREAD UNTIL BOBBIN STOPS REMOVE BOBBIN 6 PUSH THE HANDWHEEL TO THE LEFT 1 Place bobbin in bobbin case making 2 thread through siot of case as 3 thread under tension spring sure thread feeds clockwise and is shown and through the opening as shown coming from bobbin as shown above 4 Holding latch open position case 5 Case should lock into place when latch into shuttle and release latch is released SEWING MACHINE DIV 20 MODEL 385 15218400 YOUR TOP
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