Bernina 801 Owner's Manual
Contents
1. 01234 01234 01234 Zig zag Setting zig zag Oversewing edges Satin stitch close zig zag Presser foot 000 Presser foot 000 Presser foot 030 embroidery foot Thread to suit material Thread darning thread Thread embroidery thread 30 Needle to suit thread possibly sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection _ No 1 zig zag stitch Needle 80 70 Stitch width 1 4 Stitch width 1 4 Stitch width 22 4 Stitch length almost O Stitch length 1 4 Stitch length 1 2 Special accessory all models Needle position centre Feed dog sewing In general zig zag _ Set stitch length for should not be too wide close zig zag Zig zag Sitek widh and stitch lengri nor too setting the width 4 ongan enga neatly The width of the zig zag stitch is set with the stitch width knob It can be fully variable up to Stitch length 4 4mm 30 The stitch width can be altered while sewing or with the machine 2 stationary But the needle must not be in the material when the machine is stationary almost 0 oe o FS first Use darning thread if possible particularly for fine material Guide edge of material to centre of presser foot so that the needle stitches alternately into the material and over the edge Fig 1 If sewing on the edge then guide on the edge Fig 2 Turn stitch length knob to the right until it locks Mar2. Presser foot 000 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection No 4 universal stitch Stitch width 4 Stitch length approx Needle position centre Feed dog sewing Visible hem with vari overlock IVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV1 Presser foot 470 000 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection No 6 _vari overlock Stitch width 4 Stitch length 1 approx Needle position right Feed dog sewing Visible hem with stretch stitch CEOTTO Presser foot 000 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection No 5 stretch stitch Stitch width 4 Stitch length approx Needle position centre Feed dog sewing Visible hem with universal stitch Elastic visible hem for cotton jersey fine wool synthetics and blended fibres Pyjamas T shirts linge rie sports underwear Pin or baste hem into position Sew hem approx 1cm from raw edge Cut off surplus material Alternately sew directly over the cut edge Visible hem with vari overlock Very elastic visible hem for all highly elastic jerseys terry cloth stretch helanca very soft cotton and woollen jerseys Pin or baste hem into position Sew hem approx 1cm from raw edge Cut off surplus material Visible hem with stretch stitch Hard wearing visible hem for firm fabrics jeans etc Pin or baste hem into position Sew hem approx 1cm from raw edge Cu
3. Sewing of edges overcasting top stitching edge finishing sewing on lace etc are more successful if guided on the edge Fig 3 Straight Stitch Presser foot 000 Stitch width O Needle position centre Thread to suit material Needle to suit the thread see needle and thread table page 12 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 Stitch selector lever O selection SST Buttonhole o 1 4 as re quired normal stitch length is 1 2 2 2 Feed dog Stitch length sewing 14 Forward sewing With the settings specified the machine sews forward with the stitch length selected The stitch length is selected according to the sewing and material to be sewn Reverse sewing Push stitch length knob upwards and hold above O until reverse sewing is completed When the knob is released the machine sews forward again with the previously selected stitch length poj Seeing the ends Sew approx 1cm re verse and then forward again at beginning and end of seam Securing thick seams Always put needle completely down in fabric before moving stitch length lever Five needle positions The position of the stitch can be set to five different places with the knob for setting the needle position The needle is at the centre for normal sewing Application examples Blind hem page 22 Edge stitching page 23 Sewing in zips page 21 01234 01234
4. they do not roll up edges are neat 20 Highly elastic seam for stretch materials par ticularly for all kinds of sports wear 801S 802S 801S 802S 801S 802S 803S Seams with Practical Stitches Zip Fastener Vari overlock seam Flat joining seam Zip fastener inserted flat IVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVIVN ASS ee ee eee eee Presser foot 470 000 Presser foot 000 Presser foot 007 Thread sewing thread Thread sewing thread Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Needle 80 Needle 80 Stitch selection No 6 vari overlock stitch Stitch selection No 4 universal stitch Stitch selection No O straight stitch Stitch width 4 Stitch width 3 4 Stitch width 0 Stitch length 1 approx Stitch length approx Stitch length 2 approx Needle position right Needle position centre Needle position left right Feed dog sewing Feed dog sewing Feed dog sewing a Special accessory 803S Flat joining seam Elastic seam for lycra material Vari overlock seam Highly elastic overlock seam for all fine jersey Dresses blouses linen sports underwear Preparation Baste entire length of seam Mark length of zip and sew seam as far as zip opening Remove basting thread except along zip section Press entire seam trim evenly and oversew Remove re maining basting thread Baste in zip so that the teeth are covered by the material Sew in zip both sides from bottom to top once with the needle
5. The needle size to be used depends on the thread selected the needle must match the thread The adjoining table indicates which needle is suitable for which thread 12 Needles size no 70 to no 120 are usual in the trade The finer the needle the lower the number It is the opposite for the thread The finer the thread the higher the number The thread lies in the long groove of the needle during sewing If the needle is too fine there is no room for the thread in the groove The result is faulty stitches Special needles make it easier to sew difficult materials Ball point needles help to prevent damage to knitted fabric System 130 705 H SES fine round tip for fine knitted fabrics particularly synthetics System 130 705 H SUK medium round tip for medium to coarse knitted fabrics particularly synthetics System 130 705 H S stretch only Nm 90 specially for elastic synth knitted fabrics Jeans needles penetrate easier through hard fabrics System 130 705 H J slender tipped form for jeans fabrics and other compact hard fabrics Leather needles penetrate leather more easily System 130 705 H LR cutting tip for hard leather particularly Plastic Like synthetic fibres plastic must be treated differently according to surface and graining when sewing If the work does not slide properly it is often sufficient to lubricate the sewing area
6. Reel holder pins N jojo Ojoo N Od 61 BY Go No CO CO 00 oan Awn gt Bobbin spindle Hand wheel Hand wheel release NINN WIN gt Stitch width knob N p Needle position knob Buttonhole knob Stitch length knob Sewing darning knob NINININ INIO Symbol for sewing darning Dear Bernina Customer We would like to congratulate you on the purchase of your new Bernina sewing machine and thank you for the confidence shown in our products You have acquired a top quality Swiss product manufactured with the utmost skill and care at our Bernina factory in Steckborn Switzerland My Bernina Guide provides you with all the necessary information about your Bernina and its countless applications for sewing work If you should require further details or advice about your sewing machine or sewing problems please contact your Bernina stockist We hope you are successful and happy with your sewing and dressmaking work With kind regards O cUe G atis glan Odette Ueltschi Gegauf Chairman of the Board FRITZ GEGAUF LTD Bernina Sewing Machine Manufacturers CH 8266 Steckborn TG Switzerland Electrical Section Removing Bobbin Case ANN AN ANNI 1 Connecting power cable and foot control unit Warning First compare voltage specified on machine with the existing mains voltage Fit spec
7. Visible with universal stitch 19 Presser foot changing 6 Visible hem 19 Winding 5 Visible with vari overlock Prevention of faults 41 Template for buttonholes hems Box Accessories 8 stitch 9 Removing bobbin case 4 pleats scallops etc 9 Bulb Changing 40 Hook Cleaning and lubricating 40 Reverse sewing 14 Tension 7 Buttonholes 24 27 Inserting Bobbin 5 Rib trim with overlock seam 18 Thread Cord gathering 36 Buttonholes Template for 9 Inserting Bobbin Case 5 Running stitch Applications 17 Cutter 7 Changing Bulb 40 Inserting Needle 5 Mendingtears___ 30 Elastic gathering 36 Changing Presser foot 6 Jersey Edge with elastic thread 28 Patching 30 Lower breaks 41 Cleaning 40 Edgings 35 Satin stitch 15 Lower bringing up 6 Connecting power cable and Lace on 35 Scallop edge 34 Upper breaks 41 foot control unit 4 Patching 28 29 Scallops Template for 9 Upper threading 6 Cutter Thread 7 Lace and insertions Scallop stitch 17 Tension 7 Darning 32 on woven material 34 Seams Flat joining with Winding bobbin 5 Edges Elastic 35 Lace on Jersey 35 universal stitch 21 Tips Sewing 13 Elastic thread 28 Leather 12 Stretch 20 Universal stitch Applications 17 Fine 34 Light 4 Vari overlock 21 Flat joining seam 21 Narrow stitched 23 Lower thread bringing up 6 Zig zag 20 Patching jersey 28 Oversewing 15 Lowering feed dog 7 Securing the ends 14 Visible hem 19 Sca
8. most impor tant Bernina advantages is that the thread tension does not have to be altered for normal sewing The normal ten sion is set when the line on the scale is at the middle of the window Fig 2 For special sewing e g for sewing tailor HH nm K tacks the thread tension 1 can be adjusted with the er i adjusting wheel Turning C3 rm this wheel backwards _ towards the sign produces a tighter upper thread tension Turning the adjusting wheel for wards towards the sign produces a looser upper thread tension Fig 3 peee For certain types of sew ing e g darning the material should not be moved by the feed For this purpose the feed dog must be lowered by turning the sewing darning knob to the left until the mark is over the symbol Fig 1 For all normal sewing work the mark must be on the right over the i symbol When removing the sewing raise the presser foot remove the sewing to the rear left and pull both threads through the thread cutter Fig 4 The threads free themselves automatically when Do not forget reset sewing starts again bf thread tension to normal line in the middle when a special piece of sewing requiring tension alteration has been com 3 pleted 801S Accessories Box The accessories are clearly accommodated in the flat accessories box Fig 1 A summary of the most important basic settings of your sewing mach
9. position right and once with the needle position left 21
10. My sa Bernina Guide ey Bernina 801Sport 302 803 Contents Page Page Page 2__ View of machine 19 Visible hem with universal stitch Shell edging 801S 802S 4 Electrical section Visible hem with vari overlock Elastic 801S 802S Connecting power cable and Visible hem with stretch stitch 36 Gathering with cord foot control unit 20 Zig zag seam open Normal gathering Sewing light Stretch seam open Gathering with elastic thread Motor _ 21 Vari overlock seam 37 Monograms Removing bobbin case Flat joining seam 38 Appliqu single colour 5 Winding lower thread with universal stitch 39 Appliqu multi colour Inserting bobbin B Zip fastener __ EAA 40 Changing the bulb Inserting bobbin case into hook 22 Blind hemming _ Maintenance cleaning and Inserting needle 23 Stitching edges using the needle lubricating l 6 Changing presser foot positions Cleaning Important y Threading upper thread Narrow stitched edges Lubricating the hook Safety Regulations Bringing up lower thread Wide stitched edges Cleaning the hook Subject to BEAB and OSHA safety 7 Lowering feed dog 24 _Buttonholes 801S 41 Prevention of faults _ regulations official testing centres in Thread tension 25 Buttonholes with gimp cord Upper t
11. application e Check whether needle is up e Raise presser foot Fig 1 e Raise clamping lever with the index finger of the right hand and remove the presser foot using the middle finger and thumb Fig 2 e Securing the presser foot same procedure but press clamping lever downwards with index finger Fig 3 e Check whether needle is up e Raise presser foot e Place reel of thread on one of the two reel holder pins Hold reel of thread firmly while threading Fig 4 e First clip the thread into the thread guide at the rear of the machine then bring it through the slot in the thread tension Fig 4 e At the front of the machine take thread downwards under the thread regulator up again to the take up lever and then down wards to the needle holder thread guide Fig 5 e Always thread needle from front The small white plate on the front of the presser foot shaft makes it easier to thread the eye of the needle e Pull thread approx 10 cm through eye of needle e Hold end of upper thread with the left hand e Turn hand wheel once towards you until the needle and take up lever are in their highest position e Pull upper thread so that the lower thread is brought up through the hole in the needle plate Fig 6 e Take both threads through the slot of the presser foot and clip into thread cutter Lowering Feed dog Thread Tension Thread cutter One of the
12. he presser feet illustrated on this page are the standard accessories supplied to most countries In other countries with varying sewing practices the range of presser feet may be different Additional presser feet can be obtained for more specialised sewing Ask your Bernina dealer for advice Special accessory 802S Special accessory 803S 000 Presser foot 470 x Overlock foot Straight stitch Zig zag Vari overlock seam Vari overlock hem Overcasting seams 007 Zipper foot Darning foot Darning Monograms by free hand Free hand embroidery Blind stitch foot Can only be used for CI 801S Buttonhole foot Buttonholes Special elastic 033 Buttonhole foot Sewing in zips Sewing piping close along stitching line raised seam Blind hemming Edge stitching Buttonholes 11 Needle and Thread Special Needles Plastic Leather Sewing thread Mercerised cotton seams cordonnet Sewing thread synthetic Sewing thread coarse Mercerised cotton synthetic __ Buttonhole thread for decorative Needle 70 80 90 Darning thread e amp amp Embroidery thread No 30 B amp ee i 110 120 100 Please note Your Bernina is provided with Needle System 130 705H Make sure when pur chasing new needles that you receive needles of the 130 705H system
13. hread breaks E Great Britain and the U S A Thread cutter 801S E Lower thread breaks The following safety regulations 8 Accessories box 26 Buttonholes 802S 803S Faulty stitches Sa must be observed without fail 9 Template for buttonholes hems 27 Buttonholes with gimp cord Needle breaks E ve moving nesae is puree 3 pleats scallops etc 28 oe a with Tension Se fowl The sewing position must there atching Jersey wi achine runs slowly 10 T eh ieee universal stitch 801S 802S or not at all ee ee ieongtant ab 11 Presser feet Fdgina mith eaae aoe 803S 23 _ Special sccessories Manipulations within the area of 12 Needle and thread 29 Patchin ee g movement of the needle such as Special needles with isa Sh 803S changing the needle the presser Plastic Leather i foot or stitch plate must only astie 30 Mending woven fabrics 13 Some sewing tips 01S 802S be performed with the machine 8 z z switched off The same applies 14 Straight stitch Mending tears with running stitch when removing and replacing the Forward sewing Patching with running stitch __ lower thread bobbin or hook Reverse sewing 31 Mending woven fabrics 803S During maintenance work clean Securing the ends B Patching with zig zag stitch ing or lubricating or changing the Five needle positions Reinforcing edges light bulb and interruptions in sew 15 Zig zag 32 Darning ing or aner compie ion of _ i i S TE e machine must be disconnecte Sere 3 Te small gaini
14. ial plug into foot control Insert the combined mains and foot control plug into the machine and then connect the mains plug to the socket Start the machine by pressing lightly on the foot control Warning The special connecting cable may only be used for connecting Bernina sewing machines 2 Sewing light The sewing light is switched on and off with the switch fitted in the face plate Fig 2 Motor The electronic speed control ensures exceptional penetrating power even when sewing slowly The high penetrating power considerably simplifies the sewing of very heavy materials very dense fabrics and thick seams e Check whether needle is up If not raise needle with handwheel e Open hinged cover on T t a free arm Fig 3 i fea Na o Lift the latch of the bobbin case with the index finger of the left hand Fig 4 and remove bobbin case Fig 5 Cerece ccoce Winding Lower Thread Inserting Bobbin Inserting Needle e Release hand wheel hold hand wheel steady with left hand e With the right hand loosen handwheel release by turning towards you Fig 1 e Place empty bobbin on spindle Fig 2 e Place reel on a reel pin and take thread clock wise around the pre tensioning to the empty bobbin Wind round empty bobbin several times also in a clock wise direction Fig 3 e Start bobbin winding device by pressing foot control When the bobbin is full the w
15. ind ing device stops auto matically MADE IN SWITZERLAND e Remove bobbin and push winder spindle back to left e Hold bobbin case in one hand insert bobbin so that the thread is wound in the clockwise direction see arrow Fig 4 e Pull thread through the slot and below the spring until it lies in the T shaped slot at the end of the spring Do not hold bobbin for this pur pose Fig 5 e The bobbin must turn in the clockwise direction of the arrow when pulling the thread Fig 6 Inserting bobbin case into hook e Hold bobbin case by the latch with the index finger and thumb of the left hand Insert so that the finger of the bobbin case points upwards and fits in the notch of the hook race cover e Check pull end of thread e Close hinged cover See page 12 for suitable needles sizes e Check whether needle is up e The accessories box contains a small black screwdriver for loosening or tightening the needle clamp e Loosening the needle clamp half a turn to left anti clockwise Fig 7 e Inserting needle flat shank side of needle always at rear e Insert needle fully until it reaches the top If the needle does not contact at the top i e is set too low faulty stitches are produced e Tighten needle clamp firmly Changing Presser Foot Threading Upper Thread Bringing up Lower Thread Refer to page 11 concern ing presser feet and their range of
16. ine can be found inside the cover Sewing Table Special accessory The sewing table is used to enlarge the working surface It can be used for all sewing for which the free arm is not required Y mg i Ul Gee 2 r 4 a m Push table over free arm until the centering pins locate with the corresponding holes By pushing firmly in the direction of the arrow the sewing table will be secured with its fixing on pins Fig 2 Removal of attachment table The attachment table can be released from its fixing with a powerful push to the left away from the machine Fig 3 Template for buttonholes hems pleats scallops etc special accessory This marking and measuring template is extremely versatile and simple By means of the red slide the required measure can be regulated very accurately There are two ways of using the template Zz a Using the edges if lines are required 2 Calculating the length of buttonholes Flat buttons Ball shaped buttons or thick Button plus 2 3 mm fancy buttons ae Button plus 5 8 mm zs b Using the small holes if points are required 3 Marking of buttonholes E xamples Transfer adjusted buttonhole length onto the garment 1 Marking of spaces for buttonholes buttons eyelets pleats etc With the red slide adjust the required space Transfer with points or lines onto the material r n Te
17. k on knob is at the top Stitch length is then 0 By turning half a revolu tion to the left mark is underneath the basic setting of stitch length is obtained Adjust stitch density from basic setting to suit material Turn the mark a little to the left for finer materials a little to the right for thicker materials Sew a test sample 15 801S 802S Selecting the Practical Stitches stitches o 7 Presser foot 000 Thread to suit the material Needle to suit the thread ow 7 AMAA 6 LLLI 5 NAMN 4 Fog e Press selector lever ww to right to disengage are 1 and set to desired stitch Oto 7 See page 17 for application examples Stitch of Practical Stitches O 7 selection selector lever 0 7 2 Universal stitch 4 INSININININININ i ee 01234 Stitch selection selector lever 4 Stitch width 0 4 Stitch width 4 h eae Stitch length 1 2 pe Scallop stitch 7 ON NNNNA i Stitch selection selector lever 7 i Stitch width 4 Buttonhole 0 Stitch length Va Running stitch 3 NINININI NINIS Stitch selection selector lever 3 s re je Stitch width 4 Sttentsngth 4 4 Stitch length EA Vari overlock 6 INVVVVVVVVV y Stitch selection selector lever 6 Feed dog sewing Stitch width 4 g zi Stitch length 1 1 Hi Needle position right 16 801S 802S Applications of Practical Stitches 1 Zig zag 2 Blind sti
18. llop 34 Lubricating the hook 40 Setting the zig zag 15 Upper thread threading 6 Shell 35 Machine faults prevention of 41 Sewing Forward 14 Vari overlock Applications 17 Wide stitched 23 Machine view 2 Light 4 Seam 21 Elastic 35 Maintenance 40 Reverse 14 Visible hem 19 Elastic thread Edge 28 Mending Woven fabrics 30 31 Table 8 View of Machine 2 Elastic thread Gathering 36 Tears with running Tips 13 Winding bobbin 5 Electrical section 4 stitch 30 Shell edging 35 Zig zag Seam 20 Faults Prevention of 41 Monograms 37 Stitches Blind stitch 17 Setting 15 Feed dog 7 Motor 4 Faulty 41 Zip fastener 21 Feet Presser 11 Needle Breaks 41 Running 7 Feet Changing presser 6 Five positions 14 Satin 15 Fine edge finishing 34 Inserting 5 Scallop 17 Five needle positions 14 Specials 12 Straight 14 Flat joining seam Universal stitch 21 Needle Thread 12 Stretch 17 Forward sewing 14 Oversewing edges 15 Universal 17 View of Machine Hinged cover on free arm Free arm cover Needle plate Presser foot Thread cutter Needle holder clamp Thread regulator Face plate Thread take up lever Thread tension slot Thread tension disc Top frame cover Winder pre tensioning Thread tension indicator Adjusting wheel for thread tension Carrying handle Practical stitches Selector lever
19. mplate for buttonholes hems pleats scallops etc special accessory 4 Marking of hem depth With the red slide adjust the required hem depth Put the red slide against the hem edge mark the hem depth 5 Marking of top stitch lines Set the red slide to the required distance Put the red slide against the edge or seam Mark the top stitch line 10 6 Drawing scallops Drawing the curves Determine width and height of the curves Draw the necessary base lines and mark central points Set the slide hold firmly with a pin draw the scallops use cardboard underlay Semicircular scallops Flat scallops Sequence of operations Preliminary drawing on paper Definite drawing on soft cardboard 3 to 5 scallops Cut out the scallops cardboard template Transfer by means of the cardboard template onto the fabric using a light coloured crayon or a chalk pencil Presser Feet Presser feet are an important aid to sewing They are provided with grooves and guides The success or failure of a piece of sewing therefore depends on the correct choice of presser foot The presser feet are not only suitable for a specific operation They can also used for simplifying other work For example the buttonhole foot Buttonhole main application Special elastic further application Several presser feet look very similar at first glance They are provided with numbers to avoid confusion T
20. ng ring from the power supply by pulling Satin stitch INE Sega SEG out the mains plug 3 16 Selecting th AER Lace and insertions Repairs to the electronic section electing the practicalstitenes on woven material Please note especially the changing of the lead 17__ Applications of practical stitches _ Scallop edging 801S 802S Special accessories marked wire to the foot control unit may 18 Sewing knitted fabric 35 Edging on jersey are not supplied and only be carried out by one of our Rib trim with overlock seam Lace on jersey are available at extra cost service agencies Contents Page Page Page Page Accessories box 8 Gathering with Cord 36 Patching Jersey with universal Stitches Vari overlock 17 Applications of practical Normal 36 stitch 28 Zig zag 15 stitches 17 with Elastic 36 Woven fabrics with Stitched edges Narrow 23 Appliqu 38 39 Gimp cord Buttonholes 25 27 running stitch 30 Wide 23 Blind hemming 22 Hems Blind 22 Plastic 12 Straight stitch 14 Blind stitch 17 Template for 9 Pleats Template for 9 Stretch seam 20 Bobbin Inserting 5 Visible with stretch stitch 19 Presser feet 11 Stretch stitch Applications 17 Removing 4
21. slightly with sewing machine oil using a small cotton wad wrapped in absorbent material Alternatively use presser foot with sliding rollers or Teflon base Always sew plastic with long stitch length to prevent cutting Leather and imitation leather It is of course also possible to sew leather It may be necessary to use leather needles for hard leather Sew a test piece first Stitch length not too short Try using the presser foot with sliding rollers or Teflon base Some Sewing Tips Sewing is made much easier if the correct sitting position is adopted and the work is guided properly Some advice Place your Bernina approx 6 10 cm from the edge of the table Sit right in front of the needle i e in front of the work area and not at the centre of the machine This will enable you to watch the working area more closely without strain Ensure that the height of your seat permits com fortable working Sitting too low or too high makes the work more tiring Guiding from the front is not satisfactory since the material can be involuntarily held back Fig 1 Nor should the material be pulled from behind the presser foot It is best to guide the material from the side with the fingers of the left hand close to the presser foot Fig 2 For difficult work particularly with thin materials it is preferable to stop and guide it a little at a time rather than let work slide beneath the hand
22. t needle Thread sewing thread Even a slightly blunt Needle 80 70 needle damages the knit Stitch selection No 6 vari overlock and holosappearattana Stitch width 4 2 Use fi e sewing Stitch length 1 approx thread particularly for Needle position right Feed dog sewing the fine jerseys Coarse thread can also damage the knit 3 Use darning thread for basting Darning thread when sewn over can be more easily removed than the much thicker and shorter fibre basting thread 4 Press seams immedi ately after sewing This considerably simplifies subsequent work 5 Sew a sample to test the stretchiness of the stitch the chosen stitch should be as elastic as the material Since the elasticity of modern tex tiles vary considerably the basic settings of the practical stitches may need to be adjusted Press cut strip in half lengthwise Pin to neckline on right side cut edges of trim level with edge of neckline For highly elastic materials try making the stitch length slightly shorter and stitch width slightly wider This provides the seam with more thread and therefore makes it more elastic 18 801S 802S Hems with Practical Stitches In general baste hem mark desired width sew trim off surplus material The Hints for working with knitted materials page 18 apply to all types of jersey Visible hem with universal stitch ENININININININININININININININ
23. t off surplus material 801S 802S Seams with Practical Stitches The choice of type of seam depends entirely onthe Zig zag seam open seam article The choice of practical stitch on the material NAA Stretch seam open seam a ak kk lk a lk ll used Presser foot 000 Presser foot 000 Thread sewing thread Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Needle 80 Stitch selection No 1 zig zag stitch Stitch selection No 5 stretch stitch Stitch width 1 Stitch width 1 1 Stitch length 1 1 Stitch length 1 Needle position centre Needle position centre We distinguish between three types of seam Feed dog sowing Feed dog sewing Open seam Open seam Open seams are seams which are pressed open they lie flat and do not roll they allow the garment to be let out Range of application dresses pants skirts jackets coats etc Seam for normal elastic jersey in wool synthet ics or blended fibres as well as for silk cotton and woollen jersey Overlock seams are seams which are sewn and overcast in one operation they are quickly made they are narrow but do not allow the garment to be let out Range of application particularly knitted fabrics for sweaters jackets jersey blouses linen hand and machine knitted garments Flat joining seams are seams where the cut edges are lapped and then sewn over they lie flat they are narrow and cannot be let out
24. tch Running stitch 4 Universal stitch H 2 Sae For most types of material All simple zig zag work for instance over casting edges above all on fine materials sewing on elastic bands and lace etc For most types of material Blind hemstitch shell edging on soft jerseys and fine materials Decorative seams For most types of material Darning with running stitch mending material reinforcing edges etc y For firmer knitted e materials and fabrics felt 2 leather etc Flat joining seam visible hems patchwork w mending jersey sewing on elastics Decorative seams LASS O Stretch stitch Vari overlock Q Scallop stitch For highly elastic materials Highly elastic open seam for ski riding climbing hiking and activity wear Particularly for fine synthetic and silk jerseys helanca and cotton and woollen jerseys Highly elastic overlock seam and highly elastic hem particularly for sports under wear pyjamas T shirts sweaters track suits etc Particularly for woven fabrics Edgings for table cloths serviettes collars cuffs etc 17 801S 802S Sewing Knitted Fabrics e g jersey Rib trim with overlock seam For all kinds of jersey IVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV The following generally applies when sewing knitted material Presser foot 470 000 1 Use a perfec
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