Singer 9100
Contents
1. e Stitch Length About 12 or to suit fabric OE a Peat a a E A E 1 Stitch from the seam edge tapering gradu ally to the point 9 Stitch beyond the fabric to form a thread chain 1 2 to 3 4 inch 1 5 to 2cm long 3 Tie the thread ends into a single knot close to the stitching Darts in Interfacing OO __ Needle Position Centre Stitch Width 5 Stitch Length About 20 or to suit fabric With zig zag stitching darts in interfacings can be shaped without bulk 1 Cut out the dart allowance on the stitching fine 2 Bring raw edges together and pin or baste over a muslin stay 3 Stitch backstitching at both ends BUTTONHOLES Needle Position Left Stitch Width 3 and 5 Stitch Length Above 20 Special Purpose Foot Make a test buttonhole on a sample of your fabric so you can adjust stitch length to produce a closely spaced freely feeding zig zag stitch Be sure to duplicate the thickness of the gar ment and include interfacing if appropriate Stitch Width Settings You will use two stitch width settings for side stitching stitch width 3 and for bar tacks clos ings at ends of buttonhole stitch width 5 Buttonhole Length The length of the buttonhole depends on the diameter and thickness of the button To find the correct length l Cut a small slit in a scrap of fabric and Fradually enlarge it until the button slips through easily 2 Add approximately 1 8 inch 2mm2. Sewing the Professional Way Seams in Knit Fabrics cons truc tion de taj Is SEAMS IN KNIT FABRICS Needle Position Centre e Stitch Width 1 to 2 e Stitch Length About 20 ee ee The zig zag stitch is ideal for seaming knit fabrics It is particularly desirable for underarm seams where elasticity and give are needed For neckline and waistline seams where a stay is needed to prevent undue stretching this same stitch can be used to apply seam tape For a flat Smooth finish 1 If seam is curved pre shape tape to fit by steam pressing 2 Baste tape in place 3 Stitch allowing needle to alternately enter the seam tape and seam allowance LINGERIE SEAMS Needle Position Centre Stitch Width 2 to 3 Stitch Length 15 to 20 depending on fabric To make seams in lingerie both durable and flexible use the zig zag stitch This treatment is particularly suitable for bias seams Straight stitch the seam with stitch width at O on wrong side of fabric Press both seam allowances in the same direction set stitch width at 2 or 3 and from the right Side top stitch with zig zag stitching letting the needle alternately enter the seam line and seam thickness i tu Lingerie Seams Fiat Felled Seams pi FLAT FELLED SEAMS Needle Position Centre Stitch Width 2 or 3 Stitch Length 15 to 20 depending on fabric Zig Zag stitching gives strength and dura
3. replacing the slide plate You will not have any occasion to remove the Slide plate If it should accidentally become disengaged from the machine it is easily re placed Align back edge of slide plate with front end of slide way Push slide plate back until retaining spring snaps into place Remember To Plug machine into an electrical outlet Turn hand wheel toward you to position needle and take up lever Start and finish sewing with the take up lever in its highest position Test stitch on a fabric sample before starting a sewing job Replace bent or burred needles Lower presser foot before setting pressure screw Tighten hand wheel knob and move bobbin winder switch to left after winding a bobbin pertormance checklist if Fabric Fails to Feed Make Sure Presser foot is in down position Pressure screw is adjusted pro perly for the weight and texture of your fabric Stitch length selector is properly set Hand wheel knob is securely tigh tened Lint has not accumulated around feed Feed throw out knob is turned to left regular stitching position OO Enjoy Sewing lf Thread Breaks Make Sure Machine is correctly threaded Bobbin case is correctly inser ted and threaded Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends Bobbin and bobbin case are not damaged Needle is straight and securely tightened in clamp Thread is suitable for size of needle Thread is
4. Tension Bobbin thread tension is controlled by a screw located on the bobbin case You will seldom need to adjust it since it is usually possible to obtain the correct balance by adjusting needle thread tension alone Should it become necessary to adjust bobbin thread tension use the small screwdriver that comes with your machine A very slight turn will produce a noticeable change in bobbin thread tension To increase tension turn screw clockwise To decrease tension turn screw counter clockwise A perfectly locked stitch results with upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin threads are drawn equally into fabric sewing a seam Pin Basting PIN BASTING Pin basting is a time saver and can be used in place of hand basting when you are straight stitching seams in easy to handle fabric Use fine pins and place them so that They are at right angles to the presser foot and just nip into the fabric at the stitching line They do not extend under both sides of the presser foot Never place pins on the under side of the fabric in contact with the feed STARTING A SEAM Starting a Seam 1 With presser foot raised turn hand wheel toward you to position the needle in fabric about 1 2 inch lem from starting edge Lower the presser foot 2 Set selector for desired stitch length 3 Raise stitch length selector to reverse and backstitch to edge of fabric for reinforce ment
5. cotton 40 to 60 cotton Synthetic thread Heavy duty mercerized cotton 24 to 40 cotton Synthetic thread 15 to 20 12 to 15 8 to 10 for plastic Flat Side To The Right NEEDLES AND THREAD This machine uses needles Catalogue 2020 15X 1 available in sizes 9 11 14 16 and 18 For perfect stitching select correct needle and thread to correspond with fabric according to the table on page 5 Be sure to use like threads for both needle and bobbin CHANGING THE NEEDLE Raise needle bar to its highest point by turning the hand wheel toward you Loosen the needle clamp screw and insert needle into clamp as far as it will go with the flat side of the needle to the right Then tighten needle clamp screw NEEDLE THREADING l Turn hand wheel toward you to raise take up lever to its highest position Raise the presser foot Lead thread through all the threading points shown at right and thread needle from left to right 4 Draw about 4 inches of thread through eye of needle REMOVING THE BOBBIN l Raise presser foot and turn hand wheel toward you until needle is at its highest point Draw slide plate to the left Reach down with left hand open bobbin case latch and lift out bobbin case Release latch and remove bobbin from bobbin case WINDING THE BOBBIN l To stop motion of needle hold hand wheel A and loosen clamp stop motion screw B by turning it toward you Place bob
6. machine back Turn hand wheel until needle bar is at its highest point Remove bobbin case Push shuttle race gate latches A out toward left and right Remove shuttle race gate B and then shuttle body C Clean and oil shuttle area To replace the shuttle fit it in the reverse order Removing the shuttle TO OIL THE MACHINE Remove two screws from top cover and lift cover from machine Apply a drop of oil to each place indicated Lubricating Top of Machine Loosen screw on face plate and remove face plate Apply one drop of oil to all points indicated plate Lubricating Behind Face Plate SS i ae IF MACHINE IS TO BE STORED Before storing thoroughly clean the machine to remove all traces of lint and fluff Then swab all exposed metal parts and parts behind the face plate with a brush saturated with SINGER oil to protect against rust 9 Lubricating Bottom of Machine Tilt machine back and apply a drop of oil to all points indicated Adjusting Motor Belt Tension Motor Bracket Screw Replacing Slide Plate Retaining Spring 42 adjusting motor belt tension Tension on the motor belt should be just suf ficient to keep the belt from slipping If the motor belt needs adjustment Loosen motor bracket screw a full turn To increase belt tension lower the motor bracket To decrease belt tension raise the motor bracket Securely tighten motor bracket screw
7. 4 Lower stitch length selector for forward stitching and stitch Keeping Seams Straight l I I i l Sits it I r I _k l I I Stitching Line i ee Guiding and Supporting Fabric inch Seam KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT To keep the seam straight use one of the num bered guidelines on the needle plate The numbers indicate distance in eighths of an inch from the needle If you want a 5 8 inch 1 5cm seam for example line up your fabric with the number 5 guideline GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot as shown Some fabrics however require support while being stitched For filmy sheers knits tricots etc apply gentle tension by holding fabric in front and back of the presser foot For stretch fabrics apply firm tension front and back when stitching in the same direc tion as the stretch For seams not on the stretch direction stitch in the conventional manner guiding fabric in front of the presser foot REINFORCING END OF SEAM l Stitch to the edge of the fabric Ending a Seam 2 Raise stitch length selector as far as it will go and backstitch to reinforce end of seam Then lower stitch length selector for forward stitching 3 Raise needle to its highest Position raise the presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing it to the back and left 4 Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of p
8. Gii pH j HA ed MASEE COPY Instructions for using SINGER Zig Zag Sewing Machine Model 287 Enjoy Carefree Sewing Congratulations You are about to discover the wonderful pleas ure of sewing with your new SINGER sewing machine We know you are eager to get started on a sewing projecte but we urge you to be come familiar with this book before you begin It is designed to help you get the benefit of all the capabilities of this machine Especially we recommend that you keep the following points in mind DO choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric if either is the wrong size or type you may encounter broken or knotted thread or faulty stitching The Fabric Thread and Needle Table on page 5 will help you make a perfect choice DON sew with a bent or blunt needle If the needle is damaged or improperly inserted in the machine it can cause skipped stitches See page 6 for instructions DO follow the instructions on pages 6 to 8 for threading the machine Copyright 1975 THE SINGER COMPANY All Rights Reserved Throughout the World DON T forget to hold the bobbin properly when you thread the bobbin case Page amp tells you how to do this correctly DO become familiar with the instructions for regulating stitch length page 13 presser foot pressure page 14 and thread tension page 15 Take advantage of the capability of your sewing machine DON T allow lint or thread ends to accu
9. H Warst to From neck base at shoulder floor at Side seQM kann over fullest part of bust to 16 TROUSER LENGTH waistline EPERE Waist to ankle MPN 9 BACK WAIST LENGTH 17 CROTCH SEAM standing ig From the prominent bone 18 CROTCH DEPTH seated at base of neck to natura Waist to chair at side seam T waistline Adjusting Motor Belt Tension 42 Adjusting Selectors s e eee sided pene ees 13 20 fVe e 6 0 tee ee ee eee reer 38 Blanket Binding eee eae in ed ere ay ech alg ar ae 35 Pic label Gitano ede ATEFA PEES TEN F Removingtttttsesererertrteresreresnisssesrurrerannes 7 Replacing ttttetterertrtrerrrrrtseerurusnenniarerarece 9 Threading tttrrrrrsrtrrsrrtrrrereeriseresesrererurca g Bobbin Winding a a n in 7 Buttonholeg t ttssssrerernsenenssrsnsssa wr te sees teee ee DQ Caring for Your Machines s eee0 2 39 Changing the Needle e seertreresrsasrssnssrerss 6 Choosing Needle and Thread 6 Cleaning and Euhtigating wee ee ee fer en rey ere 39 Curved Se amg s lt ersseree eee ees Oe ee at eee ee 19 Darning TeTcerCcvrees Tree ee ee ee ee eee ee eee 36 Mariai cht eed pres a engi cece tnostans eink 2a In Interfacing srereeeeeee a eho ee Gat 29 Regular Phe Cae DB ae irate EN ot efi ath ERR AAA AAA 2R Ending a eapn ttrt riseire eee 19 Fabric Thread and Needle Table 5 Guiding and Supporting Fabric 18 Keeping Se
10. ams areient PRIS ETETE 18 Mending t ttet tereteresnrrarirerinisiirissnisrns tsrs 33 Bar Tacks crcccre teste eitri nyie a 5 tha awh sty 34 FORM NE 031 0975 A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY PART NO 402780 003 Mending a Tear eee PEI ee Tee Pe Replacing Elastic seseereteer err eees 34 Needle Threading EAA T A A ATEA ee ee ae 6 Operating Machine and Controller 4 Personal Measurement Chart lt 5 44 Pin Basting stort etree cere ees cence seen eer e eee e eens 17 Presser Foot Pressure PERE EEE 14 Principal Parts ctr cree ee ete nee en eee tee enes cROTa Gave 2 3 Raising the Bobbin Thread 10 Removing Bobbin ss0sseseeeee cree eeneeee 7 Removing and Replacing Shuttle 40 Replacing Bobbin Cac lt 0ee esceest eee es ea eeenes 9 Replacing Slide Plateretrtrssitreesscisrsanssrnss 42 Reverse Stitchingie tt rrttrereerrireeriseniisastrns 13 Res EE a a otha wage AAEE E Aa kag kiad ye uryege testaren re eee ere ee naa 19 Flat Fellegi eein irinin se eee toate ieee 96 In Knit Fabrics lt eee reece eee eee ene ane 2A LINgerje ie eee sree cee 25 Seam FiniShe s css tte ee cece eee e ener eee e eee eneaes oF Straight crrrcr sete eee e eee wees eens EEEIEE 17 Straight Stitching a a E E Er 1 Zig Zag Stitching Pe be ie bs hele hake eee Bae Pe oe age 20 Printed in TAIWAN Everything you need to
11. and start the machine To sew perfectly on a wide variety of fabrics adjust stitch length pressure and thread ten sion as instructed on following pages adjusting selectors for your fabric SETTING STITCH LENGTH The stitch length selector regulates the length of both straight and zig zag stitches The num bers at the right of the lever represent the number of stitches per inch the Aigher the number the shorter the stitch The numbers at the left of the lever represent stitch length in millimetres the Aigher the number the longer the stitch Generally shorter stitches are best for lightweight fabric longer ones for heavy fabric Setting Selector 1 Loosen thumb nut by turning to left 2 Position lever for desired stitch length 3 Tighten thumb nut by turning to right For reverse stitching simply raise the selector lever as far as it will go Do not loosen thumb nut to reverse 3 Setting Stitch Length Tighten Loosen To Reverse Stitching Regulating Pressure id To Decrease To Increase Feed Throw out Knob y REGULATING PRESSURE The pressure screw regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric Correct pressure is important to ensure smooth and even feeding of the fabric Generally heavy fabric requires heavy pressure lightweight fabric light pressure But fabric texture must also be considered Soft fabrics for example require les
12. at each end tor bar tacks and mark the fabric as shown This bar tack measurement is approximate on some buttonholes you may need to increase it or decrease it to arrive at pleasing proportions Marking Lines Stitch Width Settings T 4 oe lt Bar Tacks f 3 For Side Stitching Length of Bar Tacks and Cutting Space Side Stitching eS ee o ee ee Side Stitching FE Bar Tack 5 H ee T a oe Suttonholes Continued Procedure Place work under the presser foot aligning centre marking of buttonhole with the needle Side stitching Set stitch width selector at 3 Position the needle in the fabric at point A Lower the pres ser foot and stitch down left side to end of buttonhole marking stopping at point B Raise presser foot and pivot work on needle Take one stitch at same stitch width setting bringing needle to point C Bar tack Set stitch width selector at 5 and take app roximately 6 stitches ending at point D Buttonholes Continued Side Stitching Side stitching Reset stitch width selector to 3 and stitch stopping at point E ee Final Bar Tack Final bar tack With needle in fabric set stitch width selector at 5 and take approximately 6 stitches ending at point F a a et ae With needle in fabric set stitch width selector at O and take approximately 3 stitches Fastening Stitch Fastening stitch Remove wor
13. atuariawseeeys TA l Adjusting Selectors eR Your Fabrice 13 Your Personal Measurement Chart i Sewing a Seam lady sont LF Index 1 Getting to Know Your Machine principal parts and what they do 1 Thread Cutter Pressure Regulating Thumb Screw regu lates presser foot pressure on the fabric Take up Lever controls flow of needle thread Needle Thread Tension Dial lets you select the right tension for your fabric stitch and thread The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings To increase tension turn dial to higher number To decrease tension turn dial to lower number l located on presser bar 5 Presser Foot holds fabric against feed Presser foot lifter at rear of machine not shown raises and lowers the presser foot Slide Plate opens easily provides access to bobbin case latch for removal and re Placement of the bobbin Feed moves fabric under the presser foot Needle Plate provides working surface around the needle Guidelines on plate help you keep seams Straight 9 Needle Clamp holds needle 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Electric Motor supplies power to machine through a belt to the hand wheel Motor is activated by a speed controller Bobbin Winder Tension Discs regulate thread tension for winding bobbins Feed Throw out Knob lowers feed below needle plate for free motion darning and embroidery Stitch Length Select
14. bility to flat felled seams 1 Stitch the seam on the right side of the fabric taking full seam allowance ho Press seam allowance to one side keeping the right side of the stitch on top ae Trim the under seam allowance to one half its width qa Turn the upper seam allowance edge evenly over the trimmed edge and top stitch SEAM FINISHES pe Needle Position Centre Stitch Width 4 or 5 Stitch Length 8 to 20 depending on fabric Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel 1 Adjust stitch width and stitch length settings to suit the fabric Choose the settings that will give you the most open stitch that will secure the fabric edges avoid harsh over stitched edges 2 Trim seam edges evenly 3 Place stitching near the edge of the seam allowance or over the raw edge as illustrated amp _ If stitching is placed near the edge of the seam allowance trim away excess fabric after stitching ny poe Seam Finishes Qveredge Seam Finish i l 1 j l Regular Dart oiea ak D E ee N oO Steps in Making a Dart in Interfacing a DARTS Darts can be made in the usual way on your sewing machine That is you begin stitching at the wide end of the dart stitch to the point and then fasten the two thread ends Regular Darts OOOO ae Needle Position Centre Stitch Width O
15. bin on bobbin winder spindle and move bobbin winder switch D to the right Place spool of thread on spool pin and carry the thread through the thread guides E and F and between bobbin winder tension discs G as shown at right l Draw thread up and through the hole of bobbin Hold thread end until a few coils are wound and break off the thread end WHEN BOBBIN IS FULL Move bobbin winder switch to the left remove bobbin and retighten stop motion screw If bobbin does not wind evenly loosen screw G which holds tension bracket in position Move bracket away from you if bobbin winds high to the front Move bracket toward you if bobbin winds high to the back THREADING BOBBIN CASE 1 Hold bobbin so that thread unwinds in the direction Tanger as shown at left and place bobbin in the bobbin pring Case case 2 Pull thread into notch draw it under tensionspring and into slot Allow about 4 inches 10cm of thread to hang freely from bobbin case REPLACING BOBBIN CASE Replacing Bobbin Case l Raise needle to its highest position E 2 Hold bobbin case by latch and place it on the stud of the shuttle allowing position finger to enter notch at top of shuttle body 3 Release latch and press bobbin case in until it clicks into place Then close slide plate RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the needle you will need to raise the bobbi
16. cket conforms to your electrical power suppy To connect the machine insert the power line plug into your electrical outlet OPERATING MACHINE AND CONTROLLER To turn on both machine and sewing light press the switch located at top of light CAUTION We recommend that you turn off the power and light switch before changing need es and presser feet removing neede plate and when leaving the machine unattended This eliminates the possibility of starting the ma chine by accidentally pushing the speed con troller To run the machine press the speed con troller The harder you press the faster the machine will sew To stop the machine from sewing remove pressure from speed controller fabric thread needle and stitch length table FABRICS DELICATE tulle chiffon fine lace silk Oorgandy fine tricot LIGHTWEIGHT batiste Oorgandy jersey voille taffeta silk crepe plastic film MEDIUM WEIGHT gingam percale pique linen chintz faille satin fine cordu roy SuItings MEDIUM HEAVY gabardine tweed sail cloth denim coatings drapery fabrics HEAVY overcoatings dungaree upholstery fabrics canvas cat 2020 15 1 THREAD SIZES NEEDLE SIZES Fine mercerized cotton Fine synthetic thread 50 mercerized cotton A Silk Synthetic thread Polyester core cotton 50 mercerized cotton 60 cotton A Silk Synthetic thread Polyester core cotton Heavy duty mercerized
17. d and even in length When opening is filled cover area with crosswise lines of stitching This method of controlling fabric movement with an embroidery hoop may be used to do embroidering and monogramming decorative satin stitching Method 1 Trimming after Stitching APPLIQUE Applique adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens You can create your own design trace a simple outline from a coloring book or use a motif cut from a printed fabric Fabrics of like or different textures combine equally well A closely spaced plain zig zag stitch is used for applique work Aithough you may vary stitch width to accommodate fabric weave and texture never allow the stitch to be too wide Make a test sample to help you decide which of the following methods is best for your fabric and design Preparation Baste applique design to fabric outline design with a short straight stitch Remove basting and press Attach the special purpose foot Method 2 Stitching after Trimming Method 1 Trimming after Stitching l Set stitch width at desired setting Adjust stitch length in the FINE area above 20 of thestitch length control 2 Outline the entire design with applique stitching 3 Cut away the fabric on the outer edges of the stit ching with embroidery scissors Method 2 Stitching after Trimming l Trim outside fabric edges close to straight stitch outline of design 2 Set
18. et Binding Darning DARNING Worn or torn spots on children s clothes and household linens can be darned effortlessly and quickly with littie practice Without Embroidery Hoop Needle Position Centre Stitch Width O Stitch Length 10to 15 Pressure Very light l If area to be darned is open baste an under lay in place 2 Place area to be darned under presser foot lower presser foot end start stitching al ternately drawing fabric toward you and pulling it gent y away from you 3 Continue this back and forth motion until you fill the area with parallel lines of stitch ing For additional strength cover area with crosswise lines of stitching 2a With Embroidery Hoop pS Needle Position Centre Stitch Width O Stitch Length In FINE Area Above 20 Feed Throw out Knob To Right Darning Position No Presser Foot Presser Bar Lowered Ss l Trim ragged edged from area to be darned and centre worn section in embroidery hoop 2 Position work under needle lower presser bar to engage tension 3 Hold needle thread loosely with left hand turn hand wheel over and draw bobbin thread up through fabric Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric 4 Outline area to be darned with running stitches for reinforcement 5 Stitch across opening moving hoop under the needle at a slight angle from lower left to upper right Keep lines of stitching closely space
19. free of slubs and knots Thread is unwinding freely from spool Needle thread tension is light endugh Needle slot in plate and presser foot are not damaged CROTCH AbT one STANDING 18 CROTCH SEATED Your personal measurement chart This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements You will need the assistance of someone to help you take the measurements carefully with an accurate tape measure The figures below show where the tape measure should be placed wher taking each measurement eum inc ieee e m tinches 1 BUST Fullest part 10 SLEEVE WIDTH slightly higher in back sesen Around arm at upper edge 2 WAIST Around natural or underarm Seam meras waistline 2 pumai ll SLEEVE LENGTH 3 HiP nches below na Shoulder to elbow ikaunavaes tural waistline fullest part 12 SLEEVE LENGTH 4 SHOULDER From bese of Elbow to wrist te _ neck to top of arm seess 13 FRONT SKIRT LENGTH 5 FRONT BODICE WIDTH Down centre from From armhole to armhole waistline to hem ka nenaee 5 12 70 cm down 14 BACK SKIRT LENGTH from centre shoulder semo Down centre from 6 BACK BODICE WIDTH waistline to hem ace From armhole to armhole 4 10 16 cm down From centre shoulder 7 SHOULDER TO BUST From neck base at shou der to a line even with point TROUSER MEASUREMENT CHART Or GSE ge patweteures 8 FRONT WAIST LENG TH 15 FULL LENGT
20. k draw threads to underside fasten and trim Cut opening for button with sharp 0 scissors SEF TRE A i WW e BUTTON SEWING Needle Position Left e Stitch Width See illustrations Feed Throw out Knob To Right Darning Position Flat buttons one inch or more in diameter can be sewn on by machine using the plain zig zag stitch Turn feed throw out knob to right to lower the feed Set stitch width at O and needle position at left Place button under presser foot and lower the needle into the left hole Lower the presser foot and move the stitch width selector to a medium wide zig zag setting Check stitch width setting by turning the hand wheel slowly toward you increase or decrease width setting to suit hole spacing of the button Take six or more zig zag stitches to attach the button Move stitch width selector to O and take a few stitches in the left hole of the button to fasten threads keeping up appearances MENDING The zig zag stitch is just as useful for mending as it is for creative sewing It forms a firm flexible bond for repairing tears replacing elastic and for making bar tacks to repair linm gerie and to reinforce points of strain Mending a Tear Needle Position Centre Stitch Width 2to 5 e Stitch Length About 20 l Trim ragged edges 2 Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for reinforcement It is best not to baste or pin the underlay since
21. mu late in the lower thread area they can cause jamming or excessive noise Clean and lubricate machine regularly as instructed on page 39 DO remember that expert dependable SINGER Service is always available If your sewing ma chine should require maintenance or repair be sure to call your Singer Sewing Centre or Au thorized Singer Dealer You will find the number listed under Singer Company in your tele phone book Above all do enjoy sewing CONTENTS Page Page Getting to Know Your Machine 2 4 Zig Zag Stitching Feseeeth seated eectens 20 Principal Parts and What They Do 2 3 Adjusting Selectors t ee etet e Re 20 Adjusting Needle Thread Tension e 22 Getting Ready to Sewn s s rr r eres 4 Adjusting Stitch Length serete seeeere 23 Preliminary Stepsersss cce sce cere eee eee ee eee es 4 Fabric Thread Needle and Stitch Length 5 Sewing The Professional Way 24 ablett s s ttssssiririnrensronnemeenrurusensssenne 5 Construction Datajjgss ter eneseeee teens ene 24 Needles and Thread Taa aia ht ai ey Keeping up Appearances etetett enei 33 Needle Threading lt scerenereeeseeenens 6 ESSER Faeroe RSR aa ini 6 Caring for Your Machine use i Cleaning and Lubricating ee pgi 39 Adjusting Motor Belt Tension eee 42 Straight SACU Sal A ws alfa Ts as a A ae 1 Replacing the Slide lat EET EE A 42 Freparati om abiit are tid pasast kiidan Se ee 11 Starting to Sew ng taepnbs s
22. n thread through the hole in the needle plate 1 Hold needle thread lightly with left hand and turn hand wheel slowly toward you so that needle enters needle plate 2 Continue turning hand wheel and holding needle thread until needle rises and brings up bobbin thread in a loop 3 Undo the loop with your fingers Place both needle and bobbin threads under the presser foot and draw them diagonall y to the back of the machine 3 Straight Stitching preparation Before moving the stitch width selector make sure the needle is above the needle plate SETTING THE MACHINE L ta Press down on stitch width selector lever and slide lever to right until groove in lever is directly under the straight stitch symbol setting O For your convenience the position numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 will be used throughout this book when the instructions require stitch width settings For ordinary stitching centre needle position is preferred To meet special requirements a line of stitching may be placed to right or left of centre Set stitch length selector for desired stitch length See page 13 for instructions Stitch Width Selector Set for Straight Stitching o Needle Position Selector Centre a r Right Stitch Length Selector Starting to Sew a starting to sew 1 Position the needle in the fabric where de sired for stitching start 2 Lower the presser foot
23. nholes button sewing To avoid damage to needle and fabric do not make any selector adjustments with the needle in the fabric k Needle Position Selector Left Centre adjusting need e thread tension Zig zag stitching requires less needle thread tension than straight stitching and closed zig zag stitching requires even less tension than open zig zag stitching Furthermore the wider the stitch the lighter the tension on the thread must be Thus stitch width 5 requires the least tension narrower stitching requires more Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use and notice the stitching If the stitching looks too taut or if the fabric is pucker ing lower the needle thread tension by turning the tension dial to a lower number increase Decrease Adjusting Needle Thread Tension Too Tight Correct ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH For open zig zag stitching choose any stitch length from 6 to 20 depending on how open you wish the stitching to be If you wish a closely spaced zig zag stitch 1 Move stitch length selector to 20 2 Run the machine at slow speed and gradu ally tighten thumb nut by turning it clockwise until stitches are closely spaced and form a smooth surface NOTE For best results in producing a smooth satiny surface use the special purpose foot furnished with your accessories Adjusting Stitch Length As Selector is Raised Stitches Close Up J
24. or allows you to choose from a variety ot stitch lengths im cluding fine adjustments for close zig zag stitching Raising the lever permits reverse stitching Hand Wheel controls movement of take up lever and needle A ways turnit toward you Bobbin Winder Switch and Bobbin Holder let you fill the bobbin with thread quickly and easily Spool Pin and Felt Pin holds thread spools of various sizes Felt helps thread unwind smoothly Stitch Width Selector controls the widthof Zig zag stitching and positions the needle for straight stitching Needle Position Selector places needle in either left centre or right stitching position Use centre position for straight stitching PRINCIPAL PARTS OF MACHINE 287N 17 Stitch Width Selector 1 Pressure Regulating 16 Spool Pin and Felt Thumb Screw 18 Needle Position Selector A 15 Bobbin Winder Switch and Bobbin Holder 2 Take up Lever 14 Hand Wheel 9 13 Stitch Length Selector f 12 Feed Throw out Knob 3 Needle Thread Tension Dial 4 Thread Cutter 5 Presser Foot 11 Bobbin Winder i rie ii lt j lt i i Tension Disc 10 Electric Motor 9 Needle Clamp 6 Slide Plate 7 Feed 8B Needle Plate Electrical Connections Power and Light Switch Power Line Speed Controller 2 Getting Ready to Sew preliminary steps CONNECTING MACHINE Before plugging in your machine be sure that the electrical information on the motor bra
25. resser bar Cutting Threads CURVED SEAMS Sewing a Curved Seam When sewing armhole and neckline seams you usually will be sewing on a curve To do this follow the same procedure as for sewing a Straight seam except Use a short stitch length for elasticity and strength For example if you use 12 stitches to the inch for straight seams select 15 to 20 per inch for curved seams in the same fabric 4 Zig Zag Stitching You will find the zig zag stitch that is built into your machine ideal for many of your sewing applications To use this stitch simply follow the instructions below and on following pages adjusting selectors ADJUSTING STITCH WIDTH Before moving selector make sure the needle is above fabric Adjusting Stitch Width ses o R S32 4 3 3 To produce a zig zag pattern depress and slide stitch width selector lever to any zig zag set ting between 3 narrow position 1 and wide position 5 e For your convenience the position numbers O 1 2 3 4 5 will be used throughout this book when instructions require stitch width settings ADJUSTING NEEDLE POSITION Needle position setting of centre places stitching in central needle position Settings left and right place stitching in left or right needle position at stitch widths of less than maximum Centre needle position is preferred Left or right settings are used only when special placement of stitching is desired For example butto
26. s pressure than crisp fabrics Lower the presser foot before setting pressure To decrease pressure turn screw upward counterclockwise To increase pressure turn screw downward clockwise FEED THROW OUT KNOB For regular stitching turn knob to left position For embroidering and darning turn knob to right to lower the feed below needle plate so that it will not feed the material REGULATING THREAD TENSION Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams or cause the fabric to pucker Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use A perfect stitch will have the needle and bobbin threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom and no puckers Needle Thread Tension The tension dial regulates the degree of tension on your needle thread Set it according to the type of thread and fabric you use The numbers on the dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings lf the stitches in your sample look loose increase needle thread tension If the fabric puckers decrease tension To increase tension turn dial to a higher number To decrease tension turn dial to a lower number Needle Thread Tension Too Tight Yo Ua ae ye FTA Too Loose Less Tension More Tension Correct Bobbin Thread Tension To Increase To Decrease Balanced Upper and Lower Tensions if Bobbin Thread
27. sew up fashion is ata nearby Singer Sewing Centre Fabulous fabrics plus matching thread zippers and all the trimmings that add up to fashion excitement pamphlets and books to tell you how to sew like a pro all these and many more products for home sewers are always available at Singer And if you need any sewing help Singer experts are always glad to supply advice and suggestions
28. stitch width at desired setting Adjust stitch length in FINE area above 20 of the stitch length control 3 Overedge the design with applique stitching This step will produce a smooth lustrous finish that requires no additional trimming sag Caring for Your Machine cleaning and lubricating Your machine will serve you perfectly tor many years if you keep it clean and lubricated How often you will need to clean and lubricate the machine will depend on how often you use it CAUTION Sefore cleaning and lubricating the machine disconnect the power line plug from electrical supply EVERY WEEK OR S0 Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts With a soft cloth clean e Tension discs presser bar and needle bar Take up lever and thread guides Bobbin case needle plate and slide plate Machine surface If necessary dampen the cloth and use a mild soap Remove needle plate by removing screws fastening it to machine bed and remove shuttle as instructed on page 40 Using a brush clean Feed Shuttle area After cleaning apply a drop of SINGER oil at points indicated at right and on pages 40 and 41 l E Clean between Tension Discs Ps ge LAA N r f EEEN ffi Fla lon Was z d Ly SSS oe t Clean oe 4 Brush TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE SHUTTLE The shuttle can be removed for cleaning in the follow ing manner l 2 Tilt
29. you will be bringing the edges together in the next step 3 Stitch on the right side bringing the edges of the tear together Shorten stitch length at ends and corners to give extra strength Trim underlay a Mending a Tear Replacing Elastic When replacing elastic use the Same settings Replacing Elastic as for Mending a Tear 1 Fit elastic for desired snugness at waistline allowing one inch for joining Lap the ends and join with zig zag stitching 9 Divide elastic band and garment waistline into quarters Lap elastic over fabric and pin the two together at these intervals Place pins at right angles to stitching line 3 Take a few stitches to anchor elastic to fabric then hold the elastic taut as you stitch so that it will remain stretchable after stitch ing is completed Bar Tacked Belt Loops Bar Tacks Bar tacks to repair lingerie and attach belt loops are made with the zig zag stitch at a closed stitch length jm eg I t E T aee 3 l gt BLANKET BINDING Often you can make an old blanket look almost new by replacing the binding Needle Position Centre e Stitch Width 5 e Stitch Length 15to 20 M 1 Remove worn binding and baste new binding in place 2 Reduce pressure on fabric by turning pres sure thumb screw counterclockwise and increase stitch length if necessary so that blanket feeds freely 3 Stitch and remove basting Blank
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