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Singer 306K User's Manual

1. EFIS T Fig 37 Oiling Points in Bed of Machine 38 ALL PURPOSE STITCHING EQUIPMENT z k 189632 Embroidery Plate 161455 Special Purpose Presser Foot 39 189653 Shell Hemmer When covering cord with Special Purpose Presser Foot place spool on spool pin 1 Pass cord through guide 2 into right side of tension discs 3 through needle clamp thread guide 4 and from front to back through eyelet 5 in cross piece of foot NOTE With the equipment on this page and on Page 39 the full range of stitching variations may be attained The settings for these stitch variations are attainable by moving the Needle Position and Bight Levers A2 and B2 to any point required Fig 38 Machine Set for Maximum Zigzag Stitch in Left Position 40 STRAIGHT STITCHING EQUIPMENT 105248 Straight Stitch ing Presser Foot ERBS29 Fig 39 Machine Set for Straight Stitching 161127 Adjustable Cording Foot 86742 Ruffler CAUTION All of the parts shown on this page are designed for straight stitching only They must not be used for zigzag stitching Use only AFTER Needle Position Lever A2 is set at central position and Bight Lever B2 is set at 0 as shown in Fig 39 41 DISC FOLLOWER LIFTING LEVER SPOOL PINS a DISC FOLLOWER NEEDLE THREAD TENSION DISC PRESSER BAR ace _ LATCH THUMB SCREW KNURLED THREAD TAKE UP a A og TOMB NUT LEVER a qa A BOBBIN WINDER
2. 0 It is recommended that the Bight Lever B2 be locked in position with the MAXIMUM BIGHT STOP SCREW F2 by loosening then retightening it Loosen and move INTERMEDIATE BIGHT REGULATOR SCREW E2 until it engages the notch then retighten it ZIGZAG STITCHING The Bight or swing of the needle refers to the width of zigzag movement of the needle when stitching with Disc No 1 BIGHT LEVER B2 regulates the width of zigzag stitch or stitch pattern BIGHT SCALE is marked 9 to 5 Each line between 0 and 5 denotes the width of stitch pattern obtainable up to a maximum of approxi mately inch BIGHT INDICATOR Arrow C2 is the mark to which the desired point on the bight scale is set ZERO BIGHT is synonymous with straight stitching MAXIMUM BIGHT The machine will sew the maximum width of stitch or stitch pattern when Bight Lever is set at 5 approximately inch MAXIMUM BIGHT STOP SCREW F2 restricts the movement of the Bight Lever to a maximum width of stitch of 5 or less when set at a given position INTERMEDIATE BIGHT REGULATOR SCREW E2 acts as an intermediate spring stop for a desired minimum bight This spring stop can be passed over to zero bight if desired These stops allow you to operate the Bight Lever man ually between set positions without continual reference to the dial while sewing For example To limit zigzag stitching Ketween 1 and 4 set Bight
3. The Straight Stitching Presser Foot and Straight Stitching Throat Plate are designed to accommodate delicate soft fabrics sheers 43 where the presser foot is removed and the fabric is held in hoops as described on Page 94 The Straight Stitching Presser Foot is often more convenient for following the edge of a lapped seam the fold of a pleat or when placing The narrow right toe affords an excellent view at the right of the needle for such work an edgestitching on a yoke or collar When straight stitching set Bight Lever B2 at zero and set maximum bight stop screw F2 as shown in Fig 41 Then bring the intermediate bight regulator screw E2 beyond zero and tighten It is a good practice to test stitch on a scrap of fabric before stitching a garment to determine the correctness of tensions length of stitch and pressure Each of these points for regulating stitch and handling the fabric is simple and easy to regulate Because of these facilities the SINGER Automatic is superior in its stitching of a wide range of weights and texture of fabrics and with a variety of threads The Fabric Thread and Needle Chart on Page 6 is a useful guide to the correct needle thread and stitch length for a wide variety of fabrics Fig 41 Machine Set for f _ Straight Stitching with Limit Screws Locked Plain Seams comprise a large part of general sewing Seam ends are stayed with back stitching to prevent their opening du
4. Principal Parts of Ruffier This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleated rufiles Ruffles may be made separately or made and applied at the same time The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot 88 89 STITCHING Fig 133 Twin Needle Stitching Make the second eighth turn of the fabric Allow the inside needle to enter for the third time into the corner stitch penetration Con tinue to stitch in a straight line When design is completed draw threads to the underside and tie Select thread of a size appropriate for the size of needle being used as well as a thread appro priate for the fabric The Fabric Thread and Needle Chart on Page 6 is a helpful guide Adjusting Points 1 The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats The number space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch Numbers 6 and 12 are space settings for pleats spacing them either 6 or 12 stitches apart The star is for plain stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats 2 The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of the pleat It is thrown out of action by bringing it out of contact with the adjusting screw located at the tight of the ruffler 3 The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats When turned in clock wise to its limit with the adjusting finger in place the attachment is set for
5. right side of bobbin Lock bobbin in place by pressing bobbin winder against hand wheel until latch H engages Place spool of thread on either spool pin Draw thread through self threading guide 2 on arm of machine and pass thread down and from left to right under tension 3 on bed Lead thread up to bobbin and thread from inside through slot in left side of bobbin 4 Hold end of thread as shown in Fig 9 and operate machine as for sewing End of thread must be held until it breaks off Allow tension discs 3 Fig 8 to control flow of thread so that it winds on bobbin in uniform level rows Do not guide or hold thread when winding bobbin The bobbin winder will stop automatically when the bobbin is filled When less than a full bobbin is desired lift latch H Fig 8 Fig 8 To Wind the Bobbin Remove bobbin from spindle and retighten screw K Fig 9 NOTE If bobbin does not wind evenly loosen screw which holds tension bracket 3 in position and move bracket to the left if bobbin winds high on the right move bracket to the right Fig 9 if bobbin winds high on the left When bracket is properly centred thread will wind evenly across bobbin Retighten tension bracket screw Bobbin can be wound while machine is sewing Fig 10 Fig 12 12 TO THREAD BOBBIN CASE Hold bobbin so that thread will un wind indirection shown in Fig 10 Hold bobbin case as shown in Fig 10 and place bobbi
6. 3 Gimp yarns available in various sizes in needlework departments afford an interesting treatment when used as braid The plain zigzag or the blind stitch can be used depending on the effect preferred Trace design on right side of fabric Pass gimp through eye of the Special Purpose Presser Foot The Needle Position and Bight may be varied slight ly from the above settings to accommodate any one of several sizes of gimp yarn When design is completed draw ends of gimp to the back of fabric through an opening in the weave punctured with a stiletto or coarse needle Fasten gimp with hand stitching against the underside of the design for about an inch Fig 129 Gimp Yarn Applied as Braid with Blind Stitch 84 Braiding with rayon or metallic gimp is attractive on synthetics woollens felt or heavy silk NOVELTY BRAIDING Bold interesting effects result from the use of automatic stitch patterns in combination with novelty yarns Straw yarn is cleverly applied with the domino stitch Two strands are held under the Special Purpose Presser Foot Long yarn ends are allowed at intervals in the design to form tufts Trim and brush yarn to give the effect illustrated Use All purpose Throat Plate Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 5 Bight Above 25 Stitch Domino Disc No 6 Novelty effects with yarns are attractive for fabric furnishings and play clothes Many clever trim mings are possible by varying the yarn and d
7. FACE PLATE ia 5 g HAND WHEEL TAKE UP RS Z BIGHT INDICATOR SPRING NEEDLE POSITION f Qwan _ P Sg TENSION REGULATING LEVER A i MAXIMUM Bight THUMB NUT INTERMEDIATE BIGHT STOP SCR FACE PLATE REGULATOR SCREW 3 PIN TERMINAL THUMB SCREW BIGHT INDICATOR BIGHT CONTROL LEVER THREAD CUTTER NEEDLE BAR MOTOR gt STITCH REGULATOR AND FEED REVERSING LEVER STITCH INDICATOR i N BOBBIN WINDER THREAD TENSION STITCH REGULATOR LIMIT SCREW PRESSER FOOT BED THUMB SCREW i Ge e NEEDLE SS SE omy PRESSER FOOT 7 4 THROAT PLATE FEED DOG NEEDLE CLAMP THUMB SCREW NEEDLE CLAMP Fig 40 Names of Principal Parts of Machine 306K25 42 APPLICATION OF SINGER AUTOMATIC TO CONSTRUCTION OF GARMENTS AND FURNISHINGS STRAIGHT STITCHING Straight stitching is accomplished with all crepe weaves and all fabrics where the weave or of the discs when the bight is set at zero finish causes the fabric to cling to the needle The Straight Stitching Throat Plate is always used either on its upward or downward stroke Central needle position is used for straight stitching except in the unusual situation when when free hand straight stitching work is done it is desirable to alter the location of the needle in relationship to the centre of the presser foot The All purpose Presser Foot and All purpose Throat Plate are generally used for both zigzag stitching and straight stitching
8. Stitch Almost 0 A enn A ad E y ee NAAA a ag ree Stitch Above 25 TWIN NEEDLES Bight 2 Stitch Almost o ANANA PAAPA T A ee Rene ny AA ws RAN m ae Suet cays 25 TWIN NEEDLES Bight 3 Stitch A most 0 Loosen needle thread tension slightly with each increase of Bight above 2 and with each decrease in stitch length Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 should be used with stitch length of almost 0 Central Needle Position is used unless otherwise indicated 28 DESIGNS MADE BY VARIATION OF NEEDLE POSITION AND BIGHT WITH ZIGZAG DISC No 1 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 10 nN 12 Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 should be used with stitch length of almost 0 Crisp lawn organdie or tarletan backing is used if material gathers on single thickness 29 Bar Almost 0 Zigzag 6 Stitch bar then zigzag lines separately SETTING OF BIGHT NEEDLE BIGHT STITCH VARIATION OF NEEDLE PATTERN POSITION SETTING LENGTHS TENSION POSITION AND BIGHT REFER TO FIG 22 Needle Thread F2 at 5 at Central Medium for zigzag line E2 below 0 Bobbin Thread Medium Needle Thread Light 2 stitches at each mark to 5 i f2at5 O 10 5 40 0 Bobbin Thread Medium 2 stitches at each to 0 E2 below 0 Needle Thread Light At 3 16 stitches ten resets ces nm At S S Bish ass as Eo Needle Thread Very light 8 stitches at each Bobbin Thread Medium bight setting Needle Thread Very light 8 sti
9. ZIGZAG DISC No By changing Bight Length of Stitch and Needle Position as indicated Direction of Stitching left to right A7 Stitch 1 2 ae on oa ag Stitch 12 og on wee A ee a a Surh i2 t5 AN a AAA AN Needle Position Left ay ae as z N N z A as wl ne a ee os AA a gt Sul aa Stitch Almost O Bight 3 stiteh 25 258 TWIN NEEDLES Stitch 25 Stitch Almost 0 For bottom row of twin needle stitching garment is stitched right side down Loosen needle thread tension slightly for twin needle stitching Central Needle Position is used unless otherwise indicated All purpose Presser Foot 105250 should be used 24 DESIGNS MADE WITH BLIND STITCH DISC No 3 By changing Bight Length of Stitch and Needle Position as indicated Direction of Stitching left to right arion Stitch Almost o Stiteh Almost o Stitch Almost Loosen needle thread tension slightly with increase in bight above 2 Central needle position is used unless otherwise indicated All purpose Presser Foot 105250 should be used 25 DESIGNS MADE WITH SCALLOP DISC No 4 By changing Bight and Length of Stitch as indicated Direction of Stitching left to right 7 Bight Stitch Above 12 a a o 2 AT a o a ec T oe Bight 5 Stitch Almost O TWIN NEEDLES Bight 3 Stitch Above 25 Stitch Almost 0
10. fabrics as well as their weight determines amount of pressure to be applied The glazed surface of chintzes and polished cotton the loose nap surface of satin the deep piled surface of velvet the delicate and broken surface of lace and brocade all require a lighter pressure To set a light pressure turn thumb screw G2 Fig 25 upward until fabric moves easily under presser foot without slipping and without Fig 25 Thumb Screw for i 4 Regulating Pressure on Pres showing feed marks Heavy spongy fabrics like towelling chenilles ser Foot coatings etc require heavier pressure To set a heavy pressure turn thumb screw G2 downward until the fabric moves easily and the seam edges are carried evenly by the foot and the feed The pressure should be heavy enough to prevent side creepage of material and to obtain uniform stitch length yet light enough to carry the material without marking 31 THREAD TENSIONS FOR STRAIGHT STITCHING For perfect stitching the tension on needle and bobbin threads must be heavy enough to pull threads to centre of material and make a firm stitch as shown in Fig 26 In the unbalanced tensions of Fig 27 the needle thread lies straight along top side of material caused by too heavy tension on needle thread or too light tension on bobbin thread In the unbalanced tensions of Fig 28 the bobbin thread lies straight along under side of material caused by too light tension on ne
11. its deepest pleat When turned out anti clockwise to its limit and the adjusting finger out of action the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness Activating Parts The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold the material to be gathered between them The ruffling blade forms the gathers or ploats by carrying the fabric to the needle according to the spacing and fullness to which the ruffler is adjusted The separator guide is slotted to guide seam edges evenly and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to which the ruffle is attached Preparation Raise the needle to its highest point Locate the attachment on the machine in place of the regular presser foot and at the same time fit the fork of the driving lever over the needle clamp screw Make sure both the presser bar screw and the needle clamp screw are tightened securely Gathering Set adjusting lever on No 1 setting Throw adjusting finger out of action Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness desired The attachment is set for maximum fullness by turning adjusting screw in clockwise as far as possible for less fullness turn adjusting screw out anti clockwise Set stitch length to space the fullness A short stitch gives more fullness than a long Fig 135 Correct Position for Material Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the first separator guide Lower presser
12. produce 5 Many stitch designs are produced automatically through the interchange of Discs Sit back and marvel at the stitch patterns being formed i The six basic Discs furnished with the machine and illustrated below are functional as well as decor Further description of each disc is given on pages 21 and 22 38 Blind Stitch 6 Domino CHART SHOWING RELATIONSHIP OF TYPES OF FABRICS THREAD AND NEEDLE SIZES AND MACHINE STITCH SETTINGS MACHINE STITCH SETTINGS FOR STRAIGHT SEWING TYPES OF FABRICS THREAD NEEDLE Sot ee INSIDE SEAMS STITCHIN G Very thin Silk Muslin Cambric Lightweight Delicate Fabrics 100 to 150 Cotton 15 to 20 15 to 20 50 Silk 80 Mercerised Darning Cotton Fine Calicoes Linens Shirtings Fine Silk Goods Nylon etc 80 to 100 Cotton 12 to 15 15 to 20 50 Silk 50 Mercerised Darning Cotton SIZES SIZES Plastic Materials 50 to 80 Mercerised Cotton Shirtings Sheetings Bleached Calicoes Silk General Domestic 60 to 80 Cotton 15 to 18 Goods Light Woollen Goods and all classes of general work 50 Silk 50 Sylko All kinds of heavy Calicoes Drill Woollen Goods etc 40 to 60 Cotton Tickings Heavy Woollens Trousers Boys Clothing Corsets 24 to 40 Cotton Cloaks Mantles Heavy Coats and Heavy Clothing generally 60 to 80 Linen When ordering needles always specify Class and Variety 206x13 Catalogue 2029 and state the size and quan
13. stitching over another Where lines cross stitch the first line less dense and allow the second line of stitching to be more prominent Move embroidery hoops in forming letters so that most of the motion is away from you Move hoops with the stroke of the needle taking care not to bend or deflect needles O o Shadow monograms are equally appropriate for linens and l Fig 110 wearing apparel 76 DESIGNS AND MOTIFS A touch of stitching smartly placed is subtle and fashion wise The motifs illustrated on this page are examples of stitching accomplished with a combination of several discs from simple original designs When used on a collar point tie tab or pocket they add smartness and individual ity For Fig 111 Use All purpose Throat Plate Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Central Needle Position 3 Bight for lines and 5 Bight for Arrowheads oo Almost 0 Stitch B2SORR o l m Zigzag Disc No 1 Fig 111 Arrowhead Disc No 5 Stitch lines first add arrowheads Stitch on a scrap of fabric until the arrowhead is completed and the needle is ready to take the last centrally located stitch at the point Position needle in the centre of the bar of stitching lower foot and stitch slowly completing the num ber of arrowheads desired For Fig 112 equip machine as indicated above and in addition to the Arrowhead and Zigzag Discs use the Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc at a 5 Bight and almost 0 stitch length Fig
14. throat plate or presser foot for the type of work being done see Pages 39 to 41 3 Wrong setting of needle position lever and or bight lever see Pages 18 and 19 4 Pulling of material when stitching see Page 16 5 Loosely fastened presser foot or special fittings 6 Wrong class of needle see Page 6 Breaking of needle thread might be caused by 1 A knot in thread Thread too coarse for needle see Page 6 Wrong threading see Pages 9 and 10 Upper tension too tight see Page 32 Needle blunt or bent Needle set incorrectly see Pages 7 and 8 Roughened hole in throat plate Wrong arrangement of threads when start ing to sew see Page 15 9 Needle thread tension too light Breaking of bobbin thread might be caused by 1 Wrong threading of bobbin case see Page 13 2 Bobbin thread tension too tight see Pages 32 and 33 3 Bent Bobbin 4 Damaged Bobbin Case Skipping of stitches might be caused by l Wrong setting of needle see Pages 7 and 8 2 Needle blunt or bent 3 Needle too small for thread see Page 6 4 Damaged presser foot 5 Damaged throat plate Looped Stitching might be caused by 1 Wrong threading see Pages 9 and 10 2 Tensions set incorrectly see Pages 32 and 33 3 Needle too fine for thread used 4 Improper presser foot Gathering or puckering of material might be caused by l Failure to use paper or tarletan backing when zigzag stitchin
15. under the foot varies with the weight and texture of fabrics Pressure adjustment being used TWIN NEEDLE Use All purpose Presser Foot and Throat Plate Twin Needle see Page 8 Central Needle Position 0 Bight 12 to 25 Stitch Simple decorative stitching is effective when used to produce a design of straight or diagonal lines of stitching The two threads carried by the twin needle interlock with a single bobbin thread and when the tensions are increased the fabric between the lines of stitching is raised When stitching parallel lines spacing should be such that foot does not ride over a previously stitched row unless when using a special air tucking foot see Form K6071 with parallel clearance grooves in its sole provided for the air tucks previously sewn Square corners are made by turning twice while the needles are out of the fabric Stitch until the inside needle has reached the corner Raise presser foot when needles are out of the fabric Make a one eighth turn of the fabric allowing the inside needle to enter for the second time into the corner stitch penetration Turn hand wheel until the needles go down and up again and rise out of the fabric THE RUFFLER Use Straight Stitching Throat Plate Ruffler 86742 Central Needle Position 0 Bight Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact Ny ADJUSTING ly SCREW SEPARATOR BLADE BLADE RUFFLING SEPARATOR GUIDE Fig 134
16. 0 Stitch The Arrowhead Disc is used with the machine regulated for a 5 Bight and an almost 0 Stitch Trim backing away along out side of stitching when design is completed g oS i Locate pocket section on underside of garment and from the right side using Special Purpose Presser Foot No 161455 a 214 Bight and an almost 0 Stitch Pro ceed as for making buttonholes eliminating the rein forcement bars of stitching at each end Cut between bars of stitching to form pocket opening as was done in Fig 123 Fig 123 Step 2 of Pocket in Process 81 Fig 124 Underside of Completed Pocket Bring pocket sections together and seam with straight stitching Finish seam with Zigzag stitching to stay edges and prevent fraying Fig 124 shows the underside of the completed pocket Place Arrowhead at each end of the bars of stitching from right side of garment to reinforce ends of opening and to complete pocket as shown in Fig 125 Simple graceful designs are best for decorative pockets The styling of the garment will often suggest a line that can be repeated to form the basis of the pocket design The machine itself will suggest variations in design that are original and interesting such as the design shown in Fig 126 Fig 125 Right Side of Completed Pocket Fig 126 Right Side of Completed Pocket Fig 127 Soutache Braiding with Special Purpose Pressey Foot 82 BRAIDING Use All purpose Throat
17. 112 77 The Zigzag and Arrowhead Discs are used to form the design in Fig 113 The star of arrowheads in Fig 114 is formed with the Arrowhead Disc by stitching from the centre outwardly Classic designs such as the one in Fig 115 are smart when used singly or in groups The Zigzag and Domino Discs are used following simple straight lines Fig 114 A combination of the Arrowhead and plain Zigzag stitching produce the simple interesting motif in Fig 116 Such designs are easily adapted to the space and dimension of the garment section where they are used 23837 Fig 116 Fig 115 18 BORDER DESIGNS Unlimited variation and expression are possible in border designs when several stitch patterns are used in combination The width and density of the border can be varied according to the application In addition to the suita bility of such stitching for linens draperies and apparel as border designs it is effective on plain fabrics to simulate striped or plaid effects A popular application of these designs is for pockets yokes cuffs and applied bands The Scallop and Arrowhead Discs are used to form the attractive design in Fig 117 Two lines of scallop stitching Bight 5 and Stitch above 25 are crossed by groups of arrowhead stitching Bight 5 Stitch almost 0 Fig 117 19 Three discs are used in forming the border design in Fig 118 After stitching the rows of sca
18. 55 HAIRLINE SEAM IN SHEERS For a dainty hairline seam in sheers that is also fray proof follow shaped seam line with a fine cording stitch then cut surplus seam away close to line of stitching This type of seam may be used either inside or outside RIP PROOF SEAM FOR LINGERIE For rip proof seams in lingerie first straight stitch fitted seam on wrong side and press both edges to one side Use 0 Bight 15 Stitch for Straight Stitching On right side of garment top stitch with a fine zigzag stitch letting needle first enter channel of seam then seam thickness Use All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Central Needle Position g Zigzag Dise No 1 for Zigzag Stitching Fig 56 Rip proof Seam for INVISIBLE SEAM FOR HORSEHAIR OR NET BANDINGS Use All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Central Needle Position 1 Bight 25 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 Guide braid or banding so that edges are abutted as they meet when passing under slot of foot Fig 58 Heavy Duty Reversible Seam 2 Bight 25 Stitch Lingerie 50 Fig 57 Invisible Seam in Horsehair HEAVY DUTY REVERSIBLE SEAM Use All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Central Needle Position 2 Bight Above 12 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 For heavy duty strain proof seams use double interlocked seam zigzagged on both sides Turn under raw edge of one section and turn up raw edge of joining sec
19. Central Needle Position should be used unless otherwise indicated All purpose Presser Foot 105250 should be used 26 DESIGNS MADE WITH ARROWHEAD DISC No 5 By changing Bight and Length of Stitch as indicated Direction of Stitching left to right Stitch Above 25 Bight 1 o Stitch Almost 0 AINA AAI VA Parent ALA ay A Antero ve j pe i lt A Stitch Above 25 Bight 2 Stitch Almost 0 Stitch Above 25 3 Bight 3 Stitch Almost 0 AWW AAMer VAN PI bove 25 Bight 4 3 ftch Almost 0 zA en T Pere wie ta Wary e ae Bight 5 Stitch Alimost Stitch Almost o Reverse Disc to Transpose Design TWIN NEEDLES Bight 3 stitch Almot 0 Loosen needle thread tension slightly with each increase of Bight above 2 and with each decrease in stitch length Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 is used with stitch length of almost 0 Central Needle Position is used unless otherwise indicated 27 DESIGNS MADE WITH DOMINO DISC No 6 By changing Bight and Length of Stitch as indicated Direction of Stitching left to right Stitch Above 25 Bight 1 Stitch AlImost 0 aa ON cre Renan a gm pil A Stitch Above 25 Bight 2 Stitch Almost O Awan al POM aaah al ann Stitch Above 25 Bight 3 Stitch Almost 0 A nana NL anal Maa wal aay Stitch Above 25 Bight 4 Stitch Aimost 0 al yell Maal al al My a a 25 Bight 5 Stitch Aimost 0 ight
20. ERS Step 1 Stitch seam with short straight stitching using Straight Stitching Presser Foot and Straight Stitching Throat Plate Step 2 Finish seam edges together with stitching controlled with the Blind Stitch Disc No 3 Trim seam allowance close to stitching This finish prevents fraying and provides a fine smooth edge Use for seam finish All purpose Presser Foot and Throat Plate Central Needle Position l or 2 Bight 25 Stitch Blind Stitch Dise No 3 53 Press seam open after clipping on curve Use All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Central Needle Position Y to 1 Bight 12 to 25 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 Fig 60 Overlapped Seam for Interlining Fig 61 Overcasting Open Seams Fig 62 Finishing Seam in Tricot TO OVEREDGE SEAMS ish if fit is to be maintained Seam edges support the garment and should always carry a durable finish if after fone iene The stitch made with the Blind Stitch Disc is especially durable and free of bulk when used as a seam finish When seam edges are pressed in the same direction they are overedged together and when pressed open they are overedged separately Use All purpose Presser Foot and Throat Plate Central Needle Position 4 or 5 Bight 25 Stitch Blind Stitch Disc No 3 Fig 63 Overedging Seam Edges Fig 64 Overedging Open Fig 65 Overedged Open Together Seams in Process Seams Completed 54 TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES CENT
21. HE WORK Stop machine with thread take up lever P Fig 17 at its highest point Raise presser foot S draw fabric back and to left and sever threads on thread cutter R Place ends of threads under presser foot diagonally across feed T as shown Fig 17 in Fig 17 16 TO REGULATE LENGTH OF STITCH The machine is adjustable to make from 6 to Turn limit screw K3 until top of stitch lever J3 28 straight stitches per inch as indicated by the rises to setting desired numerals on the left of the stitch indicator scale When zigzag stitching the stitch regulator controls the lengthwise distance between needle penetrations The use of the limit screw K3 is especially desirable in obtaining fine stitch adjustments between 25 and 0 for such work as bar tacking or satin stitching The top of the stitch regulator lever J3 is the X 5 Numbers on the stitch regulator scale are index for setting stitch lengths E relative and enable the operator to restore any To lengthen stitch loosen limit screw K3 enough previous stitch setting to allow stitch regulator lever J3 to be lowered just below number desired TO REGULATE STITCH LENGTH FOR SATIN STITCHING Satin stitching is done with stitch regu lator lever J3 set between 25 and 0 position While stitching on a scrap of material carefully and slowly turn limit screw K3 until stitches are packed closely together allowing material to feed smoothly and evenly without irregular
22. Lever at 4 loosen MAXIMUM BIGHT LEVER STOP SCREW F2 then tighten To set minimum position 1 set Bight Lever so that arrow C2 is at 1 loosen INTERMEDIATE BIGHT REGULATOR SCREW E2 and move it up or down until you feel the notch engaged then tighten screw E2 The Bight Lever is now set to limit the maximum bight at 4 and the minimum at 1 Other limits such as 1 and 3 or 2 and 3 can be obtained in the same manner Fig 22 Bight Control Dial When free movement of the Bight Lever is desired between zero and a given bight screw E2 should he moved down as far as it will go and then securely tightened Screw F2 is used to limit the maximum bight CAUTION When Straight Stitching Throat Plate 173090 is used Bight Lever B2 must be set at 0 and needle must be set at Central Position Do not make any zigzag stitch or needle position adjustments while needle is in goods when the machine is not in operation 19 TO CHANGE DISC Raise needle out of material Set Needle Position Lever at central position Set Bight Lever at 0 Remove knurled nut U Grasp edges of Disc V and draw it off shaft cases Lift lever X with left thumb while placing new Fig 23 Removing Disc Disc on shaft so that pin Z engages at slot Y from Machine Replace nut U and tighten securely To avoid variation in stitching Disc must be held firmly Set Bight and Needle Position L
23. Plate Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Central Needle Position 0 Bight 12 to 25 Stitch Choose a design with simple continuous open lines that neither cross nor fall too closely together Stamp or trace design on face of fabric Position Soutache braid under Special Purpose Presser Foot then draw braid upward into the needle slot of the foot so that it lies on top of the lateral section of the foot Stitch carefully following the design and adjusting braid at points or corners with a stiletto or small screwdriver The stitcbing will fall in the centre groove of the braid When stitching is completed draw ends of braid to back of fabric through an opening in the weave punctured with a stiletto or coarse needle Fasten braid with hand stitching against the underside of the design for about an inch Soutache braid is available in both mercerised cotton and rayon The mercerised cotton type is a suitable trimming for cottons linens homespuns cotton tweeds and similar fabrics while the rayon type is best for woollens synthetic fabrics and silks Accord ing to fashion trends Soutache braid is featured for ae table linens draperies and fabric furnishings as well Fig 128 as for wearing apparel Soutache Braiding Design Completed 83 BRAIDING WITH GIMP Use All purpose Throat Plate Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Needle Position slightly right of centre 1 Bight 12 to 25 Stitch Blind Stitch Dise No
24. RE LINE Step 1 Marking the Material OF BUTTONHOLE Mark position and length of buttonholes with basting stitches see Fig 66 or marking chalk allowing an extra 7 in width for cutting space and an gt 4fe extra 4 in length for 3 bar allowance on each end T Lada m EROS Fig 66 Marking Location of Buttonholes with Basting Stitches U wa Step 2 Setting the Machine Use All purpose Throat Plate and Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 see Page 39 B Left Needle Position see Page 18 Above 25 Stitch 2 Bight for Side Stitches of Buttonhole 4 Bight for Barring Stitches 0 Bight for Fastening Stitches Zigzag Disc No 1 Note Bight settings of 214 for Side Stitches and 5 for Barring wud Stitches make slightly heavier buttonholes Step 3 Guiding Set bight regulator at 2 position needle just left of central mark ing ready for left swing and stitch using centre notch of foot as a guide to keep stitches just left of central marking and astride side marking Step 3 55 CA Step 4 Pivoting When centre notch of foot reaches end of marking leave needle in fabric at the point nearest central marking as shown by A in illustrations Raise foot and using needle as a pivot turn work around clockwise as c indicated at B Lower foot and take one 1 stitch leaving needle in D buttonhole
25. SINGER Automatic SWING NEEDLE SEWING MACHINES 306K 300W A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY Copyright 1964 by The Singer Company Form K6005 876 All Rights Reserved Throughout the World Printed in U S A AS THE OWNER OF THIS NEW SINGER AUTOMATIC You may take pride in having the finest zigzag sewing machine ever made for home use You can be confident that this extraordinarily versatile machine is built with the expert care and knowledge that have made SINGER the best known and respected name in sewing machines the world over for more than a century With it you can do beautiful and complex stitches automatically No more skill is required than it takes to sew an ordinary seam This amazing machine will speed through your straight sewing and then by simply using Discs do decorative stitching in no more time or with no more effort than it takes to do straight stitching TO GET THE MOST ENJOYMENT FROM YOUR SINGER Take advantage of the free sewing lessons to which you are entitled Skilled SINGER trained teachers will give you personal guidance and assist you in learning the fundamentals of home sewing ative in their application ADVANCED FEATURES OF THE SINGER 306 VERSATILITY A straight stitching machine of highest calibre capable of full zigzag and automatic decorative stitching AUTOMATIC STITCHES scalloped edges blind stitched hems decorative designs or simple mending are made
26. bar and stitch Alwavs test the stitch length and ruffler setting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work k Fig 136 Gathering with Ruffier stitch 90 Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in one Pleating operation Move adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12 stitches apart Activate adjusting finger ane o For deepest pleat turn adjusting screw in Fig 137 Correct Positions for Materials Place ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the first separator guide Place fabric to which ruffle is to be attached between the separator blade and the feed of the machine Right sides of the fabric are placed together when the seam is to fall to the inside Proceed as for plain gathering Fig 138 Making a Ruffle and Attaching it in One Operation 91 clockwise to its maximum For shallow er pleats turn adjusting screw out anti clockwise Set stitch length A short stitch places pleats close together A longer stitch separates the pleats for a greater distance Fig 139 Pleating with Ruffier Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through the separator guide Lower presser bar and stitch Group Pleating By using the star setting plain stitching alternately with the 6 or 12 setting pleats are formed in groups Even spacing between groups is easily accomplished by counting the number of sti
27. ch a pocket design is fitting for children s wear Fig 132 Appliqu in Umbrella Design The outside lines are lightly indicated on the fabric to which the design is to be applied Any portion of the design to be made with stitching only is completed before the appliqu is done The sections of the appliqu in the umbrella motif are joined with straight stitch 86 87 Fig 131 Pocket Appliqu As a plain appliqu it is appropriate for furnish ings in a child s room for draperies curtains cushions or bed spreads Gay motifs from everyday life are spirited and smart for resort wear play clothes or furnish ings in recreation rooms and the like ing and edges are trimmed A backing or double thickness of fabric is desirable in such a motif All edges that are to be free of the garment are finished with satin stitching and trimmed Edges that are to be secured to the garment are basted and stitched with straight stitching to the garment After trimming raw edges away close to the straight stitching these edges are appliqu d with a satin stitch All thread ends are drawn to the underside of the fabric and tied Soft lustrous fine threads are appropriate for such stitching A needle of a size suitable for the threads is used in accordance with the chart on Page 6 Increased pressure on the presser bar is frequently necessary to accom modate the multiple layers of material being handled
28. d tension is obtained Each lower number denotes less tension The tension indicator J2 is marked with the signs and which indicate the direction in which to turn the thumb nut for more or less tension TO REGULATE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION The tension on bobbin thread is regulated by the larger screw L2 Fig 30 which is nearest centre of tension spring on outside of the bobbin case To increase tension turn screw L2 gradually over to the right To decrease tension turn screw L2 gradually over to the left Fig 31 EPA TO CHANGE THE THROAT PLATE When changing from All purpose Throat Plate to Straight Stitching Throat Plate or Embroidery Plate FIRST raise take up lever to its highest point set the Needle Position Lever at its Central Position and set Bight Lever at 0 Tilt the machine head slightly with right hand as illustrated in Fig 32 With the left hand tilt the rounded end of throat plate by pressing it up from the underside enough to clear the feed dog Then slide the plate to the left To Insert the Throat Plate slip both ends of its spring beneath the edges of the opening and while it is slightly tilted slide it over the feed dog into position Lower the Fig 32 Changing the Throat Plate 34 machine head into place SEWING SUGGESTIONS Breaking of needles might be caused by 1 Wrong size of needle for thread and material see Page 6 2 Wrong
29. ed on page 58 Use All purpose Throat Plate Left Needle Position 0 Stitch setting 2 Bight Zigzag Disc No 1 Instead Centring needle in first hole take 6 overedging stitches leaving needle in hole at left position on last stitch Change Carrying thread Bight to 0 and take 3 fastening stitches Fig 74 Sewing on Snaps and Hooks and Eyes across snap centre needle in next hole and change Bight to 2 Take 6 overedging stitches then returning Bight to 0 take 3 fastening stitches hole The same procedure and settings are followed when sewing on hooks and eyes except that after taking 6 overedging stitches in first hole of hook leave needle in centre of hole and turn work so that next 6 overedging stitches will carry across bar of hook then proceeding to second hole take 6 overedging stitches and Continue this process with each changing Bight to 0 finish with 3 fastening stitches Follow same procedure for sewing on eye taking 6 overedging stitches in first hole 6 overedging stitches across to second hole 6 overedging stitches to side of hole and changing Bight to 0 finish with 3 fastening stitches BLIND STITCHED ZIPPER INSERTION On chiffons sheers velvets and all delicate or textured fabrics zippers may be inserted with a blind stitch equal to invisible hand stitching by using Adjustable Zipper Foot Allow seams 1 4 deeper than average Use machine basting with stitch le
30. edle thread or too heavy tension on bobbin thread Fig 26 Perfect Straight Stitching Enara Fig 27 I mperfect Straight Stitching Fig 28 Imperfect Straight Stitching eee Fig 80 Bobbin Thread Tension TO REGULATE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION WITHOUT REMOVING BOBBIN CASE FROM MACHINE The thread tension screw is conveniently adjusted while bobbin case remains in machine lever almost to its highest point tilt machine back on its hinges and turn the large screw on the bobbin case as shown in Fig 31 loosen tension and over toward operator to tighten tension Needle Thread Tension 32 To adjust raise take up Turn screw gradually over from operator to 33 TO REGULATE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION The tension on needle thread can be tested only when presser foot is down The numerals 0 to 9 on dial H2 Fig 29 indicate different degrees of tension that can be obtained The numbers do not denote a particular size of thread When tension has been correctly set for average sewing note number at indicator line J2 This setting may be quickly regained should the tension be altered for special work or change in size of thread To increase tension turn thumb nut K2 gradually to right clockwise until required tension is obtained Each higher number denotes increased tension To decrease tension turn thumb nut K2 gradually to left counter clockwise until require
31. esign as well as the stitch pattern ee Fig 130 Novelty Braiding with Straw Yarn APPLIQUE Appliqu is effective on many types of apparel and fabric furnishings Fabrics of like textures as well as fabrics of different textures and weaves are often used in appliqu ing For example in lingerie lustrous satin is appliqu d to dull crepe to create beauty and interest by contrast in texture times children s clothes play clothes or linens for Print fabrics are some applied to plain fabrics in dresses accent In draperies motif and border prints may be applied to plain fabric of similar texture When large motif designs are used in appliqu the lines or sections of the design are frequently accented by continuing the stitching around these sections to bring out the design In fabric furnishings such design sections are frequently padded to further accent the design and to give it a dimensional quality Shadow appliqu on sheer fabrics is an important variation of plain appliqu and is described on Page 66 After stitching portions of the design are cut away giving shadow contrast between portions 85 of the design having double and single thickness Bold monograms of contrasting fabric may be applied to bed spreads blanket covers or other furnishings for the home A closely spaced satin stitch is usual for appliqu making it unnecessary to turn raw edges to underside The width of the satin stitch
32. esser foot removed Refer to Page 58 for lowering feed Set Needle Position at Central and Bight at 0 locking bight with screw E2 Fig 22 Page 19 When darning knitwear reinforce opening by positioning needle 14 outside of hole lower the presser bar to engage tension discs and run reinforcing stitches 44 from edge completely around hole moving hoops with both hands This reinforcement may be omitted for firm fabrics whenever it seems to be desirable 94 With a steady continuous movement move hoops backward and forward across hole keep ing the lines of stitching closely spaced and even in length Slow movement of hoops will produce a short stitch while rapid movement will produce a long stitch For knit and tricot fabrics a longer stitch is best because it is softer when the garment is worn A short stitch is best for cottons and household linens because it approximates the weave of the fabric and is strong enough to withstand many launderings Use Lowered Feed see Page 58 Straight Stitching Throat Plate 173090 Central Needle Position 0 Bight 0 Stitch INDEX PAGE PAGE Accented darts erseeresssese 46 Central needle position 000000 18 All purpose stitching equipment 39 Changing Discs Baws views aae 20 Appliqu veers 85 Changing throat plate aitai 4 Appliqu shadow lems wesdesstiveecss 66 Contour darts in interfacings 45 Automatic stitch desena E E Conto
33. evers to desired settings and proceed as for regular sewing CAUTION Always operate machine with disc even when doing straight sewing Fig 24 Replacing Disc 20 on Machine AUTOMATIC STITCHING All of these discs do straight stitching when the Bight Lever B2 Figs 19 to 22 is set at 0 Zigzag Dise No 1 WVWVVVVVVVVVV makes a uniform zigzag stitch in all widths up to approximately inch This Disc is recommended for making buttonholes sewing buttons reinforcing seams making hairline seams Zigzag cording seams making invisible seams in lace appliqu ing satin stitching Disc No 1 scallops script stitching and wherever uniform zigzag stitching is desirable Decorative stitch patterns are produced with Disc No 1 by varying one or more of the control levers namely needle position bight and stitch Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc No 2 nenene ae makes a three stitch zigzag particularly suitable for reinforcing patching and mending as well as for decorative applications This Disc is especially adaptable for use in joining the overlapped seams of interfacings and interlinings joining seams where there is both lengthwise and crosswise elasticity and applying bindings to blankets Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc No 2 Blind Stitch Dise No 3 V VVTV produces a straight line of four stitches followed by a single zigzag stitch to the left The depth of t
34. fabrie chart 6 Needle thread tension zegulatine 32 Satin stitched scallops s seeeeeeeeeee 69 Needles threading ee a 9 Scalloped edges seose essees cesses eeetreeeeeeeeee 73 Novelty braiding cccesseeeeeeeeeeereees 84 Scalloped tucks cccsecseeeeeseeeeeeesnees TA 96 INDEX Continued PAGE PAGE Scalloping oei hena aani n nni 79 Tensions regulating sesoses ereere eee 33 Script stitch cccccesceceecseeeeseeeeereeeee AO Tensions thread ceeeee eee 32 Seam finishes ssns nestita ipea OD Thread needle and fabric hat 6 Seaming dress sections et 44 Thread tensions esssesossssereserereseresee 32 Setting needle in needle clamp T Threading bobbin case 13 Setting twin needles in needle clamp Threading needles 9 Sewing on buttons 58 Throat plate changing sccseeeceeseene 34 Sewing on snaps and hooks and eyes 59 Torso or shaped darts c ccecseeceeeeeeeeee 45 Sewing suggestions cccsseseeeereeeeeseee 35 Twin Needles 8 Shadow hem for tricot 63 Twin needle stitching 88 Shadow monogram cccsesseeeeseevereeeeee 76 Umbrella motif appini a 87 Shadow scalloping with twin needles 74 Upper threading ccsscseesscceeesereteseee 9 Shell stitched hems cseeeeeeeeseeee 68 1 SINGER T E E a a a a E Mie tee ee NA Vienna work or embroidered lace 67 Soutache braiding 83 Starting to sew 16 Wide hemstitchin
35. g 71 Stayed seam for jersey or crepe 52 Winding bobbin 11 Straight stitching 43 Zigzag seaming EA 49 Straight stitching equipment 41 Zipper insertion blind stitched 60 INDEX Continued 97
36. g are made with a 214 bight the Zigzag Disc and the single needle Twin needle stitching forms the outer lines of the large letter inside of which is placed a line of domino stitching A narrow bar of satin stitching accents the inside edge of each letter Use All purpose Throat Plate Almost 0 Stitch Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Zigzag Disc No 1 Central Needle Position Domino Disc No 6 3 Bight and 1 Bight Fig 108 15 SCRIPT STITCH Do not lower the feed Use Embroidery Plate 189632 No Presser Foot Central Needle Position 3 Bight 0 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 Script Stitch is most effective for marking baby blankets household linens lingerie or accessories After tracing or marking lettering on right side of fabric igs i place in embroidery hoops large enough to encompass word Fig 109 Seript Stitching tik Hoops or initials to be worked with right side inside hoops Place work under needle lower the presser bar position the needle and follow the outline traced Should thread breakage occur check setting of needle decrease tension and use crisp lawn or organdie as an underlay i SHADOW MONOGRAM Shadow monograms have a dimensional appeal accom plished with threads of different colours or shades and with Twin Needles Proceed as for Script Stitch Limit bight to 3 or less and use a needle thread tension slightly lighter than for Script Stitch Stitch more slowly when crossing one line of
37. g with a very wide bight and or on sheer materials 2 Excessive needle and bobbin thread tensions 3 Improper presser foot If machine runs heavily after standing idle for a long period apply a few drops of paraffin at all oiling points run the machine for a few minutes then wipe clean and apply SINGER oil as described on Pages 36 to 38 If the suggestions offered here do not correct your sewing problems call at your local SINGER SEWING CENTRE 35 TO OIL THE MACHINE Preparation Remove face plate and throat plate and swing back cover plate toward hand wheel Remove dust and lint with brush except from sewing hook Wipe hook free of lint with cloth or remove with hand vacuum cleaner Fig 34 Rear View Showing Oiling Points OILING Apply a drop of oil to all points indicated by the unlettered arrows in Figs 33 34 35 36 and 37 Apply a small amount of SINGER Fig 33 Front View Lubricant for Electric Motors to the slide block Showing Oiling Points at D3 Fig 34 36 Remove face plate A3 Fig 33 by taking out thumb screw B3 and slipping plate up and off screw at C3 Oil the points indicated in Fig 35 and then replace plate A3 Apply a drop of oil to race of bobbin case holder as shown in Fig 36 S grasa 21858 Fig 35 Face Plate Removed Fig 36 Oiling Point in Bobbin Showing Oiling Points Case Holder 37 Turn the machine back on its hinges and oil the places shown in Fig 37
38. h Fig 45 Contour Dart Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc No 2 Fig 46 Contour Along Raw Edges Dart with Abutted 45 Edges ACCENTED DARTS Darts add styling and interest when stitched with the fold to outside of garment Thread ends at the point of the dart are eliminated when the single thread principle for stitching is employed With thread leading through the throat plate from bobbin thread needle from back to front Tie bobbin and upper threads together and draw knot through threading points toward spool until a sufficient length of the thread leading from the bobbin has passed the thread guide nearest the spool to complete stitching the full length of the dart Stitch from point of dart toward edge of garment section and back stitch to reinforce Further accent is given to such a dart when an arrowhead Fig 47 Single Thread Darts is placed at the point For Arrowhead use All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Central Needle Position 5 Bight Almost 0 Stitch length Arrowhead Dise No 5 46 CONTROL OF FULLNESS Contour and shaping is accomplished in garments of soft and sheer fabrics by contour shirring Equip machine for straight stitching and with a stitch length of 12 or less according to the fabric place five rows of parallel stitching W inch apart with the first row 14 inch from the outside edge Draw threads to inside of garment at one end only and tie For
39. h centre of seam tape in preparation for blind stitching Position hem against feed with inside of garment rolled to the left to form a soft fold at basting line Blind stitch hem with the machine equipped as follows Use All purpose Presser Foot and Throat Plate Central to Left Needle Position 1 to 3 Bight 12 to 25 Stitch Fig 83 Blind Stitching Hem Finished Blind Stitch Dise No 3 with Seam Tape 64 BLENDED CIRCULAR HEM Circular hems in heavy coatings are smoothly finished when the fullness is removed by cutting away narrow wedges at regular inter vals to allow the hem to conform exactly to the shape of the garment The cut should not extend beyond one inch from the lower fold of the hem Garments where this treatment is used are usually lined and the lining is carried to one inch from the edge Bring cut edges together and stitch with Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc Should the fabric be loosely woven an underlay of thin lawn may be used as a stay on the underside Use All purpose Presser Foot and Throat Plate Central Needle Position 5 Bight 25 Stitch f Fig 84 Blended Circular Hem Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc No 2 Use All purpose Throat Plate The edge of the hem is finished by overedging with Blind Stitch Dise No 3 5 Bight and 25 A ontah e Cording Poor 1117 Stitch as described on Page 54 Needle Position slightly left of Centre 2 to 3 Bight Hand ba
40. h hole in take up lever 5 Down through guides 6 and 7 on face plate Into guide 8 on needle clamp From front to back through eye of needle 9 Draw about two inches of thread through eye of needle with which to start sewing Fig 4 Upper Threading Around Tension UPPER THREADING TWIN NEEDLES Raise take up lever 5 to its highest point Place a spool of thread on each of the two spool pins Thread each threading point with one thread at a time in the same manner as for single needle threading with the following exceptions Pass one thread between the rear and centre tension discs 2 and the other thread between the centre ws SINGER e oy ig Fig 5 Upper Threading Twin Needles TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN Raise needle to its highest point Tilt machine back on its hinges Open latch G Fig 7 and lift out bobbin case Release latch and remove bobbin 10 ll and front tension discs Thread eye of each needle from front to back Be sure that threads do not cross over or bind each other Draw about two inches of thread through eye of each needle with which to start sewing Fig 6 Upper Threading Around Tension Twin Needles TO WIND THE BOBBIN See Figs 8 and 9 Hold hand wheel J with left hand and with right hand loosen stop motion screw K to release hand wheel from stitching mechanism Place bobbin on bobbin winder spindle and turn bobbin until spindle pin enters slot in
41. he sideward movement of the needle is regulated by the bight lever The result ing adjustable blind stitch is ideal for hems facings and zippers When the lever is set for a wide bight this stitch is appropriate for overedging seam hem and facing edges to prevent fraying 21 Blind Stitch Disc No 3 Scallop Disc No 4 L S NTN accurately stitches scallops while the fabric moves in a straight line under the presser foot A single stitch separates each scallop allowing space for cutting and turning when used as an edge finish or a tuck The length of the scallop is varied by changing the length of stitch the width of the scallop by varying the Bight Arrowhead Disc No 5 BP controls the formation of the arrow head stitch pattern automatically This decorative design is reduced in Scallop width by reducing the bight setting The stitches are packed closely together Disc No 4 when an almost 0 stitch length is used and are separated when a longer stitch isused As a border design or as part of a motif or monogram the arrowhead design is classic and appealing Domino Disc No 6 M E automatically forms a decorative stitch pattern attractive in border designs monograms motifs and pockets effective when applied to linens children s dresses blouses and play clothes The design can be varied in width by the Bight Control and in spacing by the stitch length Twin needle stitching is particularl
42. hread and bobbin thread will come with it as shown in Fig 15 Lay both threads back under presser foot diagonally across feed to the right or left depending upon the side of the needle on which material is to be located so that when the presser foot is lowered the threads will be firmly held between the feed and the presser foot 15 Fig 16 Threads in Position to Start Sewing TO START SEWING Be sure to have take up lever P at its highest point Adjust Needle Position Lever see Page 18 and Bight Control Lever see Page 19 to the desired setting For zigzag stitching turn hand wheel over toward you until needle is ready for its extreme left stroke at left needle position or its extreme right stroke at right needle position Place the material beneath the presser foot S position needle in fabric lower the foot Hold threads which have been drawn to back and right under the foot Commence sewing Most materials require only guiding for best sewing results However the miracle fabrics such as nylons and similar materials blends with various rayons puffed weaves sheers jerseys and tricots which by their nature require light pressure also require support in the form of holding the material taut at the back and front of the needle as the needle enters the fabric This support assures a smooth even seam Never pull the material when sewing Never operate machine without cloth under presser foot TO REMOVE T
43. ion placing pins on right side of garment through all thicknesses while Baste about 3 from seam line to provide guide for blind stitching rolling over finger to ease fabric All purpose Throat Plate and Adjustable Cording Foot Fig 77 Blind Stitched Zipper Insertion BLIND STITCHED AND DECORATIVE HEMS BLIND STITCHED HEMS WITH FOLDED EDGE Blind stitched hems are appropriate for curtains draperies table linens and fabric furnishings Fold press and baste hem keeping basting stitches at least 44 from upper fold of hem Place hem against feed turning the bulk of the work back in a soft fold Position needle into folded edge of the hem near this soft fold The Blind Stitch Disc produces four straight stitches separated by a single sideward stitch to the left The sideward stitch should pierce the soft i fold resulting in a blind stitched hem The bight is Fig 78 Blind Stitched Hem in regulated at 2 or 3 depending on the weight and texture AOE of the fabric The length of stitch regulates the distance between the blind stitches Use All purpose Throat Plate and Adjustable Cording Foot 161127 Central to Left Needle Position 2 or 3 Bight 12 to 25 Stitch Blind Stitch Disc No 3 CAUTION Left Needle Position must be used when Bight 3 or 4 is used with Cording Foot at right of needle Fig 79 Blind Stitched Hem 62 Completed SHADOW HEMS FOR TRICOT Baste hem one half inch from t
44. it will go Bring machine forward into place and move stitch regulator lever J3 Fig 18 Page 17 to its neutral position at centre of slot When regular Fig 71 To Lower the Feed With Bight at 0 position button drop needle through centre Turn hand wheel Set Bight at approximately 3 or so that needle on its right swing enters centre of right hole then stitch Needle should enter each hole six times fasten stitch set Bight at 0 and take 3 stitches in left hole of of left hole Then lower Button Sewing Foot over toward you until needle rises button TO SEW ON BUTTONS WITH THREAD SHANK Follow steps outlined above and in addition hold pin or needle between holes in button to deepen stitches and provide thread shank A long thread shank results when the heavy end of Tighten needle sewing machine needle is used in place of a pin sewing is resumed tighten feed throwout screw L3 turning it to right as far as it will go Use All purpose Throat Plate Button Sewing Foot 189648 Left Needle Position Approximately 3 Bight OStitch Zigzag Disc No 1 thread tension if stitches appear to be loosely set 58 GAT Fig 72 Sewing on Buttons To Fig 73 Sewing Buttons with Thread Shank TO SEW ON SNAPS AND HOOKS AND EYES No Presser Foot is used for sewing on snaps hold snap in place with tweezers stiletto or the point of embroidery scissors Lower the feed as instruct
45. ith special purpose presser foot Loosen needle thread tension slight ly and set desired stitch length between 12 and 25 If several rows are used start each row with the stitch pattern beginning at the same point Should fabric be soft use an underlay of fine organdie and trim away closely at line of stitching Shadow scalloping is attractive by itself or in combination with scalloped tucks on blouses dresses and children s clothes 74 Fig 105 Shadow Scalloping MONOGRAMS Attractive variation is given simple mono grams when one or more automatic stitch patterns are introduced Select a monogram from the many transfer designs available or sketch one to suit your purpose Back fabric with tarletan crisp lawn or organdie Trace or stamp design on right side of material Cut away backing when stitching has been completed For mono gram in Fig 106 Use All purpose Throat Plate Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Central Needle Position 23828 5 Bight Fig 106 Almost 0 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 Arrowhead Disc No 5 Twin Needle work where needles are threaded with contrasting threads or with threads of different shades is appropriate for monograms The monogram illustrated in Fig 107 exemplifies such stitching Use All purpose Throat Plate Almost 0 Stitch Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Zigzag Disc No 1 Central Needle Position Domino Disc No 6 3 Bight The straight single bars of stitchin
46. ity Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 provides a channel for satin stitching and 161455 Fig 18 Regulating Length of Stitch gives smooth uniform results Special Purpose Presser Foot 17 NEEDLE POSITION CONTROL Fig 19 Left Needle Position When Needle Posi tion Lever A2 is set to the left on the dial as shown in tion as shown in dial 4s shown in Fig 19 the mach Fig 20 the needle Fig 21 the needle ine sews at the swings equally to swings from the extreme left for the left and right extreme right as straight stitching of centre as shown shown in Fig 21A 23712 Fig 19A and as the bight is changed from 0 to 5 the needle swings from the extreme left as shown in Fig 19A for zigzag stitching in Fig 20A Fig 20 Needle Position When Needle Posi tion Lever A2 is set at the central posi Centrat Fig 21 Right Needle Position When Needle Posi tion Lever A2 is set to the right on the 23713 Fig 20A 23714 Fig 21A CAUTION Left Needle Position and Right Needle Position are used only with the All purpose Throat Plate for straight stitching as well as zigzag stitching Raise needle out of fabric before changing positions of Bight Control and Needle Position Levers 18 BIGHT CONTROL STRAIGHT STITCHING can be made in any of the three needle positions described on Page 18 and with any Disc when Bight Lever B2 is set at
47. l Hemmer 189653 Central Needle Position 8 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 or Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc Blind Stitch Disc No 3 Many variations of the soft scallop may be obtained by using different stitch sett The automatic stitch de signs lend further variation and interest to shell hems E23AS3 Leading Raw Edge into Scroll of Shell Hemmer Fig 90 The shell hems illustrated are stitched with Blind Stitch Disc at 3 Bight and 25 Stitch Fig 92 and with Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc at 5 Bight and 25 Stitch Fig 93 68 Fig 92 Fig 93 Completed Shell Hems SATIN STITCHED SCALLOPS Satin stitched scallops provide a beautiful and durable finish for household linens as well as for wearing apparel Prepare the work for satin stitching by using a double thickness stayed with crinoline or organdie or a single thickness backed with paper Trace scallops in position allowing a sufficient margin of fabric about 2 inches at right to grasp with right hand in guiding scallops If when cutting sufficient length were not allowed machine baste a piece of same fabric or stay fabric just outside marked line of scallop Use size 11 needle silk thread very light upper tension and medium light bobbin tension and most important the Pressure on the Presser Foot must be set as light as possible so that the fabric can be moved from right to left while satin stitch is being made The fabric remains straight at al
48. l times in line with the feed Scallops are followed without turning by lightly moving the work to right or left so that the needle on its right swing follows the marking for 69 Fig 94 Satin Stitching Scallops the scallop This will maintain parallel stitches evenly spaced automatically producing the effect of a narrower stitch at the point between scallops and widening to full depth at the arc Use All purpose Throat Plate Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Central Needle Position Almost 0 Stitch 5 Bight Zigzag Disc No 1 A finely corded edge finish is often used to complete satin Lead heavy duty thread into eye of Special Purpose Presser Foot and carry it through and under foot See page 39 for threading of heavy duty thread Position needle close to edge of scallop lower foot and stitch close to scallop covering filler cord with closely spaced stitches crowding against scallop all along the way stitched scallops Fig 96 Fig 97 Trimming Scalloped Edge Following Drawn Thread with All purpose Presser Foot Fig 99 Blind Stitch Used for Fringed Edge TO CORD SCALLOPS Fig 95 Cording the Scallops If scallops border a hem cut away surplus of hem on wrong side close to inside of scallop If scallops form an edge cut away surplus border close to cording stitches on outside of scallop at the same time cutting away founda tion crinoline or organdie Use All purp
49. llop ing with a 5 Bight and above 12 Stitch length satin stitched bars are made with Zigzag Disc 3 or 4 Bight and almost 0 Stitch across points between scallops Arrowheads accent each solid bar of stitching at 5 Bight and almost 0 Stitch l Suitable for vertical or horizontal treatment the design in Fig 119 is made with the Zigzag and Scallop Discs Scalloping is joined with criss cross bars of stitching The proportion may be varied according to the application Fig 118 Fig 119 The design in Fig 120 is made with Arrowhead and Domino Discs and is appropriate for a simple border or as an all over stripe on a plain fabric The Domino and Blindstitch Discs are used in effecting the interesting stripe or border design in Fig 121 80 BUTTONHOLE POCKETS Buttonhole pockets accented with stitched designs are effectively made on the SINGER Automatic Machine Appropriate for dresses of tailored and classic style as well as for blouses shirts and sports wear these pockets are simple to make and are sturdy and durable Mark position of pocket opening with a basting line and the design for stitching with a fine chalk line A backing of lawn organdie or muslin provides the body and firmness desirable when satin stitching is Fig 122 Step 1 of Pocket in Process used The pocket design illustrated in Fig 122 is stitched using the Zigzag Disc while the machine is set for a 3 Bight and almost
50. m a pin tuck across the ends of stitching Form shirring by pulling the threads on inside of garment at second end until shirring has been drawn together suffi Fig 48 Contour Shirring in Process ciently so that garment sections match Knot thread ends and finish with a pin tuck Join sections of garment together Three rows of stitching are visible when finished When controlling eased fullness in a sleeve cap at the elbow of a long fitted sleeve in the shaping of a circular hem or in joining yoke or fitting seams two lines of control stitching are used and pin tucks are omitted Fig 49 Contour Shirring Completed 47 COUCHED ELASTIC SHIRRING Fig 50 Couched Elastic Shirring in Process ELASTIC SHIRRING Elastic thread is often used to control fullness at the waistline or cuff Zigzag stitch over one or two strands of elastic thread drawing the elastic thread to give the tautness desired Knot ends securely This treatment provides a snug fit with elasticity Either side may be used as right side depending upon the effect desired Use All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Central Needle Position 1 Bight 12 Stitch Zigzag Dise No 1 Elastic thread is wound on the bobbin without stretching while regular sewing thread is used in the needle The machine is regulated for straight stitching Stitch parallel rows with a 10 stitch The bobbin tension is regula
51. marking at point C SUPE Step 5 Barring Set bight regulator at 4 for wide swing and take six 6 stitches leaving needle in fabric at point D at left Step 5 aus Step 6 Finishing Buttonhole Edge 4 D Return bight setting to 2 and stitch final edge of buttonhole keeping centre notch of foot just left of central marking to provide sufficient cutting space Stop within six stitches of end leaving needle in fabric at point E at outside marking This point may be E easily determined while stitching by observing last stitch in first row at lower edge of opening in special Fig 67 Step 6 purpose foot 56 Step 7 Finishing Final Bar and Fastening Stitch Set bight regulator at 4 for widest stitch and take six 6 stitches to complete final bar Set bight regulator at 0 and stitch length at 0 and take three 3 fastening stitches at point F Cut buttonhole along line of centre marking Raised or Gimp Buttonholes Insert No 8 Pearl Cotton or Cordonnet Thread through eyelet in front of special purpose presser foot as shown in Fig 69 and proceed as for regular buttonholes as instructed on Pages 55 and 56 Fig 69 Making Gimp Buttonholes Fig 70 Gimp Buttonholes 57 TO SEW ON BUTTONS Lower the feed by turning machine back on its hinges and loosening screw L3 Fig 71 turning it over to left using a screwdriver if neces sary as far as
52. may be varied to accommodate the weave Fine fabrics are appliqu d with a narrow satin stitch while coarse fabrics require a wide satin stitch In many cases the design is stitched to the garment with a satin stitch and the edges are trimmed away later An alternative procedure is often used where the design is stitched to the fabric with a short straight stitch the raw edges trimmed and the satin stitch used to complete the outline resulting in a smooth lustrous edge A trial sample is always made to determine the method most appropriate for the particular work being done since appliqu is suitable on such a diversity of fabrics Use All purpose Throat Plate Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Central Needle Position 2 to 3 Bight Almost 0 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 The pocket appliqu illustrated in Fig 131 is made with a double thickness of fabric to All lines within the design are completed before the pocket is applied Discs 3 5 and 6 are used to give the stitched accents provide a finish on the inside The open portion of the pocket along the top edge is completed with a satin stitch before the motif is applied The raw edge is trimmed along the stitching The design is then hand basted to the garment and the outline is stitched with a 12 to 25 straight stitch and trimmed The final satin stitching on all outside edges is completed as a last step resulting in a durable and attractive appliqu Su
53. n into it Pull thread into slot L Fig 11 under tension spring M Fig 12 and into stot N at end of spring Allow about three inches of thread to hang free from bobbin case TO REPLACE BOBBIN CASE Hold bobbin case by latch and replace it on stud X Fig 13 having thread draw from top of bobbin case Release latch and press bobbin case back until latch catches groove near end of stud Allow about three inches of thread to hang free from bobbin case 13 _ Fig 13 Bobbin Case Threaded and Replaced TO PREPARE FOR SEWING This SINGER Class 306 Machine comes equipped with Disc No 1 ALL purpose Throat Plate and ALL purpose Hinged Presser Foot The throat plate and presser foot have the same wide opening to accommodate the swing of the needle With the equipment illustrated below the machine can perform STRAIGHT sks ZIGZAG aes ORNAMENTAL STITCHING FOR ALL PURPOSE STITCHING use 105250 All purpose Hinged Presser Foot tH ERISIF Fig 14 Bight Control 173088 All purpose Throat Plate Set for Straight Stitching Disc No 1 14 TO PREPARE FOR SEWING continued Set Needle Position Lever A2 and Bight Control Lever B2 for straight stitching as shown in Fig 20 Hold end of nvedle thread with left hand and turn hand wheel over toward you until needle goes down and up again and thread take up lever P Fig 17 is at its highest point Pull up needle t
54. ngth set at 8 to close placket on seam line Turn a fold in back seam allowance 14 from basted seam line and pin this fold to zipper tape rolling both over finger while pinning to ease fabric Baste then machine stitch the fold to tape using 12 stitch length and Cording Foot at left of needle see Page 41 Reinforce closure at each end by stitching across top and bottom of zipper tape and front seam allowance from seam edge toward side seam and back stitch Use 161127 Central Needle Position Approximately 2 Bight 25 Stitch Blind Stitch Disc No 3 Turning garment inside out lay slide fastener over feed of machine and turn back the front section of garment to line of basting creating a soft fold Stitch using Blind Stitch Disc No 3 a 25 stitch and approximate The straight line of stitching will pass through the tape of the zipper and front seam the sideward stitch will pierce ly 2 Bight a thread or two of the fold Fig 76 Blind Stitching Zipper 60 The needle position lever can be used slightly left of centre the better to posi tion the straight stitching and to control placement of sideward stitch Should a deeper Bight than 2 be required for thick fabrics Left Needle Position must be used 6l Fig 75 Cording Foot at left of needle Applying Fold to Zipper Tape Turn garment right side out and pin front zipper tape into posit
55. ntral Needle Position 1 Bight Ae Almost 0 Stitch Fig 88 Outlining Lace Motif with Zigzag Disc No 1 Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Use wide lace edging with a definite floral design and baste into position where desired on right side of fabric First follow upper lines of motif nearest edge covering filler cord with tiny stitches along lines of motif and proceeding in an unbroken continuous line Then choose a section of the motif nearest edge and fully outline this separate motif repeating at evenly spaced intervals for length of the lace Finally remove bastings cut away surplus lace close to stitches of corded outlines and from wrong side of garment cut away surplus satin along edge close to lines of cording 67 Fig 89 Lace Motif Embroidered into Satin SHELL STITCHED HEMS Shell stitched hems provide a soft ornamental finish for delicate fabrics particularly when material is cut on the bias Lower shell hemmer over raw edge of fabric on wrong side of material Take one stitch raise shell hemmer draw the work back and cut threads Hold ing both ends of attached needle thread lead raw edge of fabric lightly into scroll of hemmer drawing on threads to carry it through On reaching slot of hemmer lower the needle into hem then lower hemmer and stitch Use 5 Bight No 2 or Shell Stitched Hem in Process Fig 91 ings and threads All purpose Throat Plate Shel
56. of 1 in length or less depending upon the stitch Fig 102 Scalloped Edge in Process A single straight stitch separates each scallop pro Use All purpose Presser Foot and viding space for cutting when the seam edges are Throat Plate trimmed and turned to form the finished faced Central Needle Position 5 Bight scallop edge 12 to 25 Stitch as desired Scalloped edges are used extensively on blouses Scallop Disc No 4 dresses and children s wear Stitch in the same way as when making a straight seam The garment section will pass straight under the presser foot while the needle follows a scallop pattern Trim seam allowance to less than 4 and clip into each point between scallops Blend this narrow seam by clipping small wedges at regular intervals When the scallop is turned the seamed scallop edge will have a smooth even contour y 13 Fig 108 Scalloped Edge Completed SCALLOPED TUCKS Scalloped Tucks are formed in the same manner as the scalloped edge In planning added width of at least 1 4 must be allowed for seaming and trimming the scallop Form scallops first then turn and stitch tuck with straight line of stitching spaced as desired Fig 104 Scalloped Tucks SHADOW SCALLOPING WITH TWIN NEEDLES Sheer fabrics are well suited to shadow scalloping Limit Bight to 3 and set machine at central needle position Insert TWIN NEEDLES as described on Page 8 and replace presser foot w
57. op edge Posi tion under All purpose Presser Foot and Stitch with 11 to 2 Bight 25 Stitch and Blind Stitch Dise No 3 Trim raw edge near solid line of stitching A small stitch will be visible at regularly spaced intervals on the right side of garment To make this stitch less apparent reduce width of bight Fig 80 Shadow Hem for Tricot in Process Use All purpose Presser Foot and Throat Plate Central Needle Position 11 to 2 Bight 25 Stitch Blind Stitch Disc No 3 Fig 81 Shadow Hem in Tricot Completed 63 BLIND STITCHED HEM FINISHED WITH SEAM TAPE Hems in skirts dresses or coats have extra width at the top of the hem to consider When the garment is flared or circular there is more fullness in the hem than in pencil slim styles This fullness must be controlled before the hem is finished if a smooth hem is to result After the length of the garment is marked pin and baste with silk thread one quarter inch from crease of hem Press to shape hem allowance then measure and cut hem to desired width Control fullness by placing a line of straight stitching one quarter inch from top edge of hem and draw bobbin thread easing fullness and shaping top of hem to garment Steam to shrink excess fullness Fig 82 Seam Tape Basted to Hem Edge before Blind Stitching Baste and stitch seam tape along this quarter inch control thread Hand baste throug
58. ose Throat Plate Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Central Needle Position 1 Bight Almost 0 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 Medium Pressure Adjustment 70 FRINGED EDGES Use All purpose Presser Foot and Throat Plate Right or Left Needle Position 2 Bight 12 to 25 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 or Blind Stitch Disc No 3 Draw a thread marking depth of fringe Stitch along this line Beginning at raw edge draw out threads up to stitch ed line Fig 98 Wide Hemstitching Wide hemstitching is done in same manner as fringed edges except that threads are drawn to mark width of hemstitching When using Blind Stitch Disc stitch to complete one side of hemstitching Turn fabric and stitch second side matching stitches Then draw remaining centre threads between rows of stitching Zigzag Disc No 1 or Blind Stitch Disc No 3 are equally effective to use for fringed edges and wide hemstitching 71 CORDED EDGES WITH FABRIC COVERED CORD Use All purpose Throat Plate or Straight Stitching Throat Plate Central Needle Position 0 Bight Adjustable Cording Foot 161127 To Cover Cord cut bias strip twice the width of the seam allowance plus cord Fold bias over cord raw edges even and position needle close to cord but not into it and lower Cording Foot at left of needle Stitch guiding the edge of sen oe the foot next to the cord but do not crowd the foot against Fig 100 Covering Cord with Cording it Foo
59. ring fitting and assembling the garment Position needle a few stitches from the edge of the garment Hold threads which have been drawn to the back and right under presser foot Stitch in reverse to the edge and then forward until end of seam is reached Back stitch again to stay ends of seam Fig 42 Seaming Dress Sections 44 Darts are conveniently stayed at the points by stitching beyond the fabric about one half inch to form a thread chain Tie these chained threads into a plain knot The last three or four stitches of a dart must be very close and parallel to the fold resulting in a smooth shaping of the garment TORSO OR SHAPED DARTS Torso and shaped darts are stronger and more flexible when stitched with a shallow zigzag Stitch the points for a distance of one inch with straight stitching Zigzag centre portion Use All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Fig 43 Dart Thread bei Central Needle Position y to l Bight Tied 25 Stich for Zigzag and 12 Stitch for Straight Fig 44 Stitching Torso or Shaped Zigzag Disc No 1 Darts CONTOUR DARTS IN INTERFACINGS Contour darts in interfacings provide per manent shaping without bulk when cut lapped and zigzag stitched along raw edges as in Fig 45 The dart is often cut away edges abutted and stayed with straight grain strip of muslin as in Fig 46 Use All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Central Needle Position 5 Bight 25 Stitc
60. ste hem to garment three eighths inch Blind Stitch Disc No 3 from top edge of hem Place hem against feed and turn garment to form a soft roll at basting line as in Fig 83 page 64 65 z APPLIQU SHADOW HEMS Shadow hems are lovely for table linens of crisp organdie or fine linen as well as for dresses or aprons of sheer crisp fabrics Baste hem to full depth of design corners mitred where necessary Mark design on right side Draw filler cord through open ing in front of Special Purpose Presser Foot and follow design with fine closely spaced zigzag stitching When appliqu is complete cut away surplus edge from wrong side close to stitching See Fig 86 and page Fig 85 Appliqu Shadow Hem in 39 for threading of cord Process 1 Bight Fig 86 Threading Special Pur pose Presser Foot with Filler Cord 66 Use All purpose Throat Plate Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Central Needle Position Almost 0 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 e Fig 87 Appliqu Shadow Hem Completed EMBROIDERED LACE OR VIENNA WORK Embroidered Lace or Vienna Work is characteristic of high priced lingerie Yet it may be very quickly and easily accomplished with Special Purpose Presser Foot using fine rayon or silk crochet thread as the filler cord to be covered See page 40 for threading of cord Use All purpose Throat Plate Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Ce
61. t at left of needle Machine Baste Cord to right side of garment using Cording Foot at right of needle Apply Facing and position under needle with facing next to feed and garment next to foot so that basting stitch will be in view Stitch this time crowding the foot against the cording and making stitches between the basting and the cording Before turning work blend seams by cutting away seam allowances the bias to 14 and the garment and facing to 4 Corded seams and edges lend smartness to tailored garments Cushion covers and slip covers are usually finished with corded seams The cording foot is essential for making corded seams and edges and has many applications in addition to stitching zippers and hems as described on Pages 60 61 62 amp nd563 Fig 101 Machine Basting Covered Cord to Garment 12 SCALLOPING i SCALLOPED EDGES When the Scallop Disc is in use the needle moves to form a scallop while the fabric moves in a straight line under the presser foot The depth of the scallop is controlled by the bight setting A 5 Bight produces a scallop approximately deep and each bight setting of less than 5 produces a correspond ingly narrower scallop The length of scallop varies with the stitch length A 12 stitch and a 5 Bight produce a scallop approxi mately 11 4 in length a 25 stitch and 5 Bight give approximately a 34 scallop while a stitch length above 25 produces a scallop
62. tches FAMILY MAINTENANCE SEWING MENDING A RENT OR TEAR Household linens sheets towels and pillow cases are quickly mended on the SINGER Automatic Swing Needle Machine by holding an underlay of straight or bias fabric underneath the tear and stitching with the Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc No 2 over the tear bringing the edges of the tear together and reinforcing them The ends or corners are given added strength by using a shorter stitch length Use All purpose Presser Foot and Throat Plate Central Needle Position 5 Bight 25 to almost 0 Stitch 5 Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc No 2 wage 80 Mending ad ea MENDING TROUSER POCKET Regulate machine in the same way as for mending a tear and stitch pocket together allowing the needle to stitch very close to the edge on its right stroke reinforcing the edge and closing the seam at the same time GIRDLE REPAIRS Zigzag stitching is well suited for use on garments of an elastic nature that require firm flexible stitching The Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc No 2 as well as the Plain Zigzag Disc No 1 are appro priate for such repairs The stitch length and bight are regulated Fig 142 Repairing a Girdle according to the need A needle slightly larger in size than is used for regular stitching is sometimes necessary to accommodate the multiple layers of fabric and elastic Fig 141 Mending a Trouser Pocket Where both lengthwise and crosswise elasticity is important mul
63. tches at each ahs Battie aea nadun Sih chon Bas KEY TO STITCHES SHOWN ON PRECEDING PAGE a Very light for bar 25 z r Needle Thread Very light At 25 6 stitches F2 at 3 BrE Alternating with Bobbin Thread Medium At almost 0 40 stitches E2 below O za Needle Thread Very light 14 stitches at each Bobbin Thread Medium bight setting left 4 14 stitches at each setting Alternating with Alternating with pact Thread Ughi Bight 4 at loft needle position Right 1 Bight 1 at right needle position Le Bight 1 at left needle position 20 stitches at each setting Alternating with Right Left 4 n 6 stitches at each setting Alternating with Alternating with oe sect ei Bight 4 at left needle position Right 2 0 2 d Bight 2 O and 2 right needle position Left Needle Thread Light 16 stitches at each setting Almost O Bobbin Thread Medium Right 4 14 stitches at each setting 4 x a P Needle Thread Light gt ui Ahernanng with tone with fan Bobbin Thread Medium Bight 4 at right needle position left Needle Thread Light fi Fr F2 at 4 Almost 0 tf Bight 4 1 and 4 left needle position Aeon Bobbin Thread Medium Bight 4 1 and 4 right needle position Alternating with Bight 2 5 and 2 at left needle position Right Bight 2 at right needle position O Bight Zero Bight 2 Bight Medium Bight 5 Bight Maximum Bight 30 TO REGULATE PRESSURE ON PRESSER FOOT The surface finish on
64. ted so that it is heavy enough to stretch the elastic thread when stitching but light enough to avoid breaking or fraying Thread ends are fastened securely by tying 48 Fig 51 Elastic Shirring Completed ZIGZAG SEAMING Fig 52 Invisible Seam for All Over Lace Cut away excess seam up to stitching on both right and wrong sides using curved embroidery scissors Use All purpose Throat Plate and Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Central Needle Position 1 Bight Above 25 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 After seams have been basted and fitted mark outline of seam on both sections of garment with hand basting Remove basting that joined seams and lay one section over other with seam lines matching and hand baste Remove marking stitches Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 see Page 39 is used to follow outline of lace motif that runs through seam lap 49 Fig 53 Invisible Seam for All Over Lace Embroidery Use Fig 55 CORDING SEAM WITH SPECIAL PURPOSE PRESSER FOOT 161455 Place a thread through the eye at the front of the foot and lead it underneath the foot Cover thread with closely spaced zigzag stitches See page 40 for threading of cord All purpose Throat Plate and Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 Central Needle Position Above 25 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 Hairline Seam in Sheers 2 Bight Fig 54 Cording a Seam with Special Purpose Presser Foot 1614
65. tion Interlock two raw edges and zigzag across one seam on right side and across other seam on wrong side producing a double fell doubly reinforced with elasticity against strain when wearing 51 STAYED SEAM FOR JERSEY OR CREPE Seams in fabrics that stretch or bias seams in firm fabrics ir are often stayed with seam tape for durability Position l seam tape with edge exactly on seam line If seam is es i curved shape seam tape by steaming at the ironing board a a Hand baste if necessary Stitch with fine zigzag stitching Fig 59 Stayed Seam in Jersey OVERLAPPED SEAM FOR INTERLINING The seams of an interlining are always overlapped to avoid excessive bulk in a garment Care must be taken to use the full seam allowance Trim Stitch in the centre of the overlap with multiple stitch zigzag excessive width from seam edges This seaming is durable flexible and free of bulk Use All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Central Needle Position 5 Bight 12 Stitch Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc No 2 52 SEAM FINISHES TO OVERCAST OPEN SEAMS Turn raw edge toward wrong side and while stitching let it pass over flanged toe of All purpose Presser Foot and through slot Guide material so that needle when swinging to the right pierces material exactly at edge Use All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Central Needle Position 2 Bight 15 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 TO FINISH SEAMS IN TRICOT OR SHE
66. tiple stitch zigzagging is best suited ELASTIC WAISTBANDS Use All purpose Presser Foot and Throat Plate Central Needle Position 2 Bight 12 Stitch Zigzag Disc No 1 Stretch elastic while stitching to provide the degree of fullness required in the garment If a waistband fit elastic for snugness on the individual and join ends of elastic i Divide both elastic and garment into quarters and pin at Fig 143 Renewed Elastic Waistband these intervals Stretch elastic between these points to dimension of garment while stitching With top edge of elastic in line with raw edge of garment zigzag two rows following the cords in the elastic Trim away raw edge of garment near top line of stitching REPLACING BLANKET BINDING The Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc No 2 gives an excellent stitch for applying blanket binding and affords both a decorative and durable finish Remove worn binding Baste new binding securely in place Stitch using the All purpose Presser Foot and Throat Plate 5 Bight 12 to 25 Stitch and Multiple Stitch Zigzag Disc No 2 Increase pressure adjustment to accommodate the thickness of the blanket Fig 144 Blanket Binding Replaced 93 DARNING Stockings children s balbriggans leggings and knit wear of all kinds as well as household linens are often darned on the sewing machine The area near the worn section must be held taut in embroidery hoops The feed is lowered and the pr
67. tity required You will obtain the best stitching results from your Sewing Machine if tt is fitted with a SINGER Needle See Page 8 for ordering TWIN NEEDLES NEEDLES AND THREAD For perfect stitching thread should be selected 206 x 13 Catalogue 2029 NEEDLE according to fabric to be stitched and needle must be correct size for thread to pass freely through its eye Select correct needle according to table on Page 6 Be sure that needle is not blunt or bent Note Thread breakage is sometimes caused by variations in the diameter of thread Such breakage is overcome by using the next size larger needle Use like threads for needle and bobbin Do not use silk on bobbin and mercerized thread in needle or vice versa LONG GROOVE TOWARD YOU TO SET THE NEEDLE Raise the needle bar to its highest position and loosen thumb screw F Fig 1 in the needle clamp Insert needle into clamp as far as it will go with flat side to the back and long groove toward you Then tighten thumb screw F Fig 1 Setting Needle in Needle Clamp a TO SET TWIN NEEDLES Follow same procedure as described for setting single needle see Page 7 CAUTION Before stitching with TWIN NEEDLES be sure that Needle Position Lever is set for central position as shown in Fig 20 Page 18 and that the machine is not operated at a bight exceeding the number shown on the cross bar of the TWIN NEEDLES Set bight limit screw F2 Fig 22 at a point eq
68. tons sewing on 58 Fringed edges e cee cceceseseeeeseeeeseee TL 95 PAGE PAGE Gimp buttonholes c cceceeeeeeeeeeeees 9T Oiling the machine cceeeeereeeeeee 36 Girdle repairing 2 0 00 c ccsececee eee eeeeeeees 92 Overcasting open seams 0eeeeereees 93 Overedging seams sae 54 Hairline seam in sheers csseseeeeeee 50 Overlapped seam for dnteplining 52 Heavy duty reversible seam 51 Hemstitching 71 Plain seaming n 44 Tavisible seam forcalloyver lace 49 cae appliqu in elephant design eieaa A me Toser id reparing to sew aiia ih aera seam for all over lace embroidery Principal parts of Machine 306K25 E Y Left needle position ccccecseeeeeeereeee 18 Regulating pressure on presser foot 31 Length of stitch regulating 17 Regulating tensions A R Oe Lowering the feed dog 58 Removing bobbin ss sesesssssreerereeeeeeee LI Removing bobbin case 11 Making buttonholes 55 Removing the work 16 Mending a rent or tear cee cee eeeeee erence 92 Repairing a girdle PEET 92 Mending a trouser pocket sessen 92 Replacing blanket A 93 Monograms ccs eee eee eee esemi 79 Replacing bobbin case 13 Right needle position ceeeeeeeeeeeee 18 Needle position control 18 Rip proof seam for lingerie 2 50 Needles and thread seteceeensesenseees T Ruffler and its use cccseceeeeeeeeeeeeee 89 Needle thread and
69. uivalent to the number on the cross bar using the method described on Page 19 Should a narrower bight be desired screw E2 Fig 22 is used in addition to screw F2 In performing TWIN NEEDLE work the All purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot or Special Purpose Presser Foot must be used in addition to setting the machine as described above Failure to heed this caution will result in the blunting or breaking of the needles Straight stitching zigzag stitching as well as ornamental stitching can be performed when using TWIN NEEDLES When ordering TWIN NEEDLES it is neces sary to specify the quantity class and variety 306x3 Catalogue 2036 and the space number such as 3 as well as the size of the needles The following is an example of an intelligible order 10 Class and Variety 306x3 3 Catalogue 2036 Size 14 Needles 306 x 3 3 Catalogue 2036 NEEDLES LONG GROOVES TOWARD YOU Fig 2 Setting Twin Needles in Needle Clamp UPPER THREADING SINGLE NEEDLE Raise take up lever 5 to its highest point Place spool of thread on spool pin and hold spool with right hand Fig 3 Upper Threading Lead thread into self threading guide 1 from underside Down and from right to left behind or in front of centre tension disc 2 Centre disc separates threads for twin needle sewing Into the loop of the take up spring 3 Under the slack thread regulator 4 Up and from right to left throug
70. ur shirring asesore 000s 47 Automatic stitching 21 Control of fullness sbtten 4T Bight control EAA 6 19 Corded edges with fabric covered cord C 72 Blanket binding eeplaciag 93 Cording scallops 70 Blended circular hem Sault 65 Cording seams PRAGS 50 Blind stitched and decorative Tems Suain ah 62 Couched elastic shirring 48 Blind stitched hem finished with seam tape 64 Darning aTe 94 Blind stitched hem with folded edge 62 Descriptions of Discs E E A Blind stitched zipper insertion 60 Designs and motifs ccccccceeeecceeee T7 Bobbin TEMOVING 0 ccc seen cee cee aeeai 11 Designs made by Dises sorasa See nes 23 Bobbin winding 0006 Il Dises 5 amp 21 Bobbin case removing oe aa eee wi ee ida eeeieeiee te ll Drawing i up bobbin Gissaas 15 Bobbin case replacing cc00000008 13 Bobbin case threading 000005 13 Elastic shirring AS 48 Bobbin thread tension regulating 33 Elastic waistbands 23 Border co athade saydsade ede sstegedieteceesates 9 Embroidered lace or Vienna work ot Braiding 83 Fabric needle and thread chart 6 Braiding wite gimp thetesatecdesisseta 84 Family maintenance sewing 92 Buttonhole peckete incur erasers aa a ena OBL Features of Machine 306 000000 4 Buttonholes making 55 Finishing seams in tricot or sheers 53 But
71. with interchangeable Discs which remember different stitch patterns Unlimited effects are possible by simply adjusting the stitch length and needle position and through the interchange of additional discs TWIN NEEDLE DECORATIVE WORK can now be done without attachments using the special Twin Needles FRONT THREADING NEEDLE visible eye is quickly threaded ROTARY MOVEMENT for smooth quiet performance full rotary sewing hook FULL VISION BOBBIN CASE facilitates removal and replacement Time saving extra capacity round bobbin 10 ll 12 13 14 15 CALIBRATED TENSION for accurate adjustment to any type of fabric REVERSIBLE FEED for sewing either forward or backward easy to back stitch and fasten ends of seams CALIBRATED STITCH REGULATOR with fingertip control SMOOTH SEAMLESS PLATES clip on to ensure performance POSITIVE FEED for handling all types of fabrics FEED THROW OUT permits darning and embroidering PERFECT CONTROL whether sewing at high or low speeds THROAT snag free ONE WAY NEEDLE CLAMP makes it almost impossible to place needle in clamp incorrectly ALUMINIUM CONSTRUCTION means durability and light weight AUTOMATIC STITCH DESIGNS DISCS 1 Zigzag 4 Scallop 2 Multiple Stitch Zigzag 5 Arvowhead Each disc is identified by number and by the basic stitch pattern it will
72. y attractive and affords the use of threads of two colours Discs 1 2 3 4 and 6 produce the same stitch pattern whether numbered side Arrowhead of Disc is toward or away from the machine However Disc No 5 forms the Disc No 5 wide portion of the arrowhead first when disc is placed numbered side away from machine and point or narrow portion of arrowhead first when disc is reversed Stitch on a scrap of material until that point in the design is reached that is to be reproduced on the work Then place work under needle at the exact point where design is to be made This procedure is desirable when using the scallop and arrowhead discs but often is used in precise stitching with the multiple stitch blind stitch and domino discs Additional discs which produce a variety of stitch patterns other than those produced by the six basic discs furnished with the machine may be purchased at your local SINGER SEWING CENTRE Domino Disc No 6 22 DESIGNS MADE WITH ZIGZAG DISC No 1 By changing Bight Length of Stitch and Needle Position as indicated Direction of Stitching left to right i giro Stitch Almost 0 decrease in stitch length Loosen needle thread tension slightly with each increase in Bight above 2 and with each Special Purpose Presser Foot 161455 should be used with stitch length of almost 0 Central Needle Position is used except when otherwise indicated 23 DESIGNS MADE WITH MULTIPLE STITCH

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