Singer 14HD854 Instruction Manual
Contents
1. The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in Always unplug the machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning AN WARN NG To reduce the risk of burns fire electric shock or injury to persons Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet wall receptacle is the same as the rated voltage of the motor Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this Operator s Guide Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in the Operator s Guide To disconnect turn all controls to the off 0 position then remove plug from outlet Disconnect the power line plug from the socket outlet or switch the machine off when making any adjustments in the needle area such as threading needle and loopers changing needle changing throat plate or changing presser foot etc Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the Operator s Guide Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt Contact your nearest Service Center should any adjustment be required Do not unpiug by pulling on cord To unplug grasp the plug not the cord Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor Be sure not to place anything on top of it Always use the proper throat plate The wrong plate can cause the needle to b2. e Thread the upper looper as indicated 1 8 Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 12 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread downward until it slips under thread guide 2 e While holding thread with finger pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 e Thread the looper area of the machine following the orange color coded thread guides 4 7 e Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to back 8 Note Use of tweezers provided in the accessory set to aid in threading the looper e Pull about 10cm 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate 13 14 2 Threading the Lower Looper Yellow e Thread the lower looper as indicated 1 9 e Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread downward until it slips under thread guide 2 While holding thread with finger pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 x an gt 5 m l T 3 n feel Weel Alf Turn the hand wheel toward you until the lower looper is at the far right Thread the looper area of the machine following the yellow col
3. Cloth plate Looper cover Power amp light switch Stitch length dial Hand wheel Spool stand Spool holder Spool pin Presser bar lifter Differential feed adjusting lever knob Seam width finger support plate 6 HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER A A NO Of OD Caution Be sure to turn off power switch Push the cover to the right as far as it will go 1 Pull cover down toward you 2 Caution Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND LOOPER COVER Upper looper Movable upper knife Presser foot Stationary lower knife Lower looper Seam width finger knob Seam width adjustment knob 8 PREPARATION PRIOR TO SEWING Connect the controller electric plug 1 to the machine receptacle 2 Plug power line 3 into electric outlet 4 Power Switch Push mark side to turn ON Push O mark side to turn OFF To run the machine and control the speed press the controller The harder you press the faster the machine will Sew To stop the machine from sewing remove your foot from the controller T E D Pa a T ii F i rs AT p J 1 MN i i d WARNING Use only foot controller provided with this machine YC 482 for U S A amp CANADA only Be sure to make reference to Warning on following page Setting Up the Thread Guide Hoider 10 oF POLARIZED PLUG INFORMATION FOR U S A amp
4. NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH Needle thread Upper looper thread Topside Fabric Tension Dial Green Orange Yellow Light weight 4 0 o o Medium weight 5 0 o soj o Upper looper thread Topside N Underside Needle thread Lower looper Upper looper thr amp ad thread Needle thread Topside Underside AVAATA TAN K i a A Needle thread Se ower looper Upper looper thread meee N thread Topside Underside L A 35 6 4 thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch Note x These are suggested tension settings only NEEDLE POSITION T 4 Type and thickness of more 1 Type and thickness of fabric 3 Size type and fiber content of thread Upper looper thread A Y YS Lower Correct Balance a f looper K By l ES Y thread e Set each tension dial to settings shown at right a and test sew on a sample of your fabric needle Left thread Topside fp l x Underside N 514 Fabric Tension Dial Blue Green Orangej Yellow Medium weight 3 0 _ 3 0 30 How to Balance Heavy weight 3 0 e When the upper looper thread lies on the underside of the fabric Turn the upper looper thread tension dial iW WwW iW u W Lower orange to a higher number Ta i We looper Or turn lower looper thread tension dial yellow Right Pa oan a thread to a lower number needle Left needle e When the
5. Set stitch length dial to F 2 and a fine seam will be sewn Needle SINGER Needle 2022 size 80 11 or 90 14 Thread A variety of thread combinations can be used for rolled hemming 37 Note For a beautiful two thread rolled hem thread the upper looper with wooly nylon and the needle with lightweight regular thread NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH SPREADER 1 a 2 Thread wrapped edge overlock Correct Balance e Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and test sew on a sample of your fabric Upper looper ass Poyester 30 20 Woolynylon 30 20 b 2 Thread standard rolled hem stitching Lower looper thread Correct Balance e Set each tension dial to settings shown at right l and test sew on a sample of your fabric Topside Underside 503 Upper looper Tension Dial eee Woolynylon 20 40 38 Note For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper with lightweight regular thread 2 a 3 thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance gt gt Set each tension dials to settings shown at right and test sew an a sample of your fabric b 3 thread Upper Looper Thread Wrapped Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance Set each tension dials to settings shown at right and test sew an asample of your fabric NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB
6. trouser cuffs Place garment over the free arm and sew _ To replace the cloth plate Align projection on cloth plate with groove in cylinder cover and slide to the right until tab on cloth plate front snaps into slot in cylinder cover 2 20 STANDARD OVEREDGE AND ROLLED HEM STITCHING To Sew Standard Overedge e Set seam width finger knob to S to move seam width finger to projected position Note Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting S To Sew Rolled Hem Set seam width finger knob to R to retract the seam width finger Note Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting R 28 21 CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING When the machine is completely threaded bring all of the threads over the throat plate and slightly to the left under the presser foot Hold the threads and apply a slight tension e Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete turns to start the thread chain e Lower presser foot Continue holding the chain and press on the foot controller until the chain is 5 7 5cm 2 3 inches in length were ay Caer ee aa Ler aT ea renee e Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and sew a test sample Note Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this may deflect the needle causing it to break 29 22 Starting and End
7. 5mm and 34 ES iN 5 7mm flatlock width can be obtained by changing the needle position rane iia a A 1 needle 3 thread stitch is used for sewing Wrapped Edge af N narrow rolled hems or ornamental edges Overlock Sf b Aiso a 3 5mm and 5 7mm wrapped ae overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position _Four thread vie te ees 2 needle 4 thread stitch which is ideal for Stretch Mock iil is i medium to heavy weight stretchy fabrics Safety Stitch such as double knits and swim wear Depending on the needle positions used this machine can sew 3 thread standard width 3 5mm overedge and a 5 7mm wide overedge seams Also for overedging heavyweight fabrics the seam width can be increased still more by turning the overedge seam width adjustment knob See page 21 Needle used Overedge right needie Overedge left needle Needle thread Green tension dial a 2 HANDY REFERENCE CHART Tension Dial Numbers shown are average Needle settings on medium weight fabric with Stitch Type Positions standard 80 polyester spun thread _ Page Two Thread 40 20 Overlock 95 10 spreder Two Thread Hem Stitching pos 503 oe Three Thread Overlock Three Thread Flatlock Three Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock Four Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Upper Safety Stitch joe 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 looper 514 The thread tension becomes tighter as the dials are turned to higher numbers The tension settings
8. CANADA ONLY This appliance has a polarized plug one blade wider than the other To reduce the risk of electric shock this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet reverse the plug If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet Do not modify the plug in any way JN warning Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet wall receptacle is the same as the rated voltage of the motor Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor Be sure not to place anything on top of it when not in use Disconnect the power line plug from the electric outlet when changing needles presser feet or throat plates or when leaving the machine unattended This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the controller PREPARATION FOR THREADING This machine is shipped with the thread guide holder in the lowered position Fully extend the thread guide holder The two joints on the telescope will click into place when they are correctly positioned Center the thread guides above the spool pins Place thread over the cone adapters on the spool pins Note If the machine is threaded straighten the threads to prevent tangling 10 HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES To Remove Needle s Caution Be sure to disconnect the machine from the electric
9. R STITCH LENGTH Upper looper thread NNT Needle thread Topside Underside 504 Upper looper a Polyester 30 50 30 Wooly nyon 30 36 35 Needle thread Upper looper thread Lower looper thread Topside Needle thread Underside Upper looper Tension Dial thread Blue Green Orange Yellow weayeyen 20 20 50 39 Additional Information About Rolled Hemming 40 Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to keep it from curling into the seam e Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained The minimum overedge stitch width that can be obtained for rolled hemming is approximately 1 5mm 1 16 inch since the cutting width cannot be set below 3 5mm 9 64 inch To Secure the Rolled Hem Thread Chain Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the end of the seam Allow to dry then cut the chain close to the stitches Note Test the liquid seam sealant for color fastness before use 25 STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam e A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of the 3 thread overlock stitch sewing the seam and pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam e The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only 1 Machine Set Up e Remove the left or
10. a blunt point Use a high quality thread Loosen thread tension Insert new needle current needle may be bent or have a blunt point Tighten needle set screw Insert needle correctly Change type or size of needle Check threading Increase presser foot pressure Use a high quality thread Balance thread tension Check for tangled or caught thread Check threading Loosen thread tension Check for tangled or caught thread Use high quality light weight thread Shorten stitch length Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight fabrics Check alignment of knives Replace one or both knives Close looper cover before sewing Check for tangled or caught thread Compress thick layers of fabric with conventional machine before sewing with overlock Connect machine to power source 21 22 22 11 29 11 12 19 20 11 50 31 39 11 11 12 19 22 50 31739 20 12 19 31739 20 50 21 22 48 48 20 49 Type of Fabric Light Weight Lawn Organdy Voil Crepe etc Medium Weight Muslin Sheersucker Satin Gabardine Broadcloth etc Heavy Weight Denim Tweed Corduroy Serge Knit Tricot Wool woven knit Cotton Silk Spun Tetron Cotton Silk Spun Tetron Cotton Silk Spun Tetron Spun Tetron Spun Tetron Cotton Spun Tetron Woolly nylon 28 RELATIONSHIP BETW
11. a horizontal position Note If the knife stops in the up position Turn the hand wheel toward you until the knife clears the top of the machine Continue to rotate the knife to the horizontal position To place movable knife in working position e Open looper cover and push the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go e Turn the knob up and toward you until the knife clicks into the working position M Caution Always close looper cover before operating machine Movable Knife Holder 25 18 CONVERTING THE UPPER LOOPER INTO SPREADER Warning Switch off the machine before installing or removing the spreader Installing the spreader e Insert the pin A of the spreader inthe hole B of the upper looper e Put the positioning rib C in contact with the upper surface of the looper e Insert the point D in the hole E of the upper looper Removing the spreader e Remove the point D of the hole E of the upper looper and take the spreader off the looper Note Put the spreader back to the accessory storage 26 19 FREE ARM SEWING TUBULAR WORK This machine become a free arm machine simply by removing the cloth plate Fo remove the cloth plate Slide cloth plate to the left and remove from machine while pressing button A located on the underside e This is especially suited for sewing hard to reach garment areas such as armholes and overcasting
12. right needle Begin with the machine threaded and tension balanced for the 3 thread overlock stitch page 29 e Loosen the needle thread tension green or blue generously Loosen the upper looper thread tension orange slightly Tighten the lower looper thread tension yellow generously 2 Flatlocking a Seam e Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a decorative stitch on the right side of the garment Sew the seam trimming the excess fabric The needle thread green or blue will form a V on the underside of the fabric e The lower looper thread will pull into a straight line at the fabric edge Remove Upper looper thread p es Topside ss Remove Needle thread Lower looper thread Underside 41 Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull the stitches flat 3 Decorative Flatlocking e Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position page 25 The fabric is not trimmed or this stitch Fold fabric wrong sides together Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with par of the stitch extending off the fabric e Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten 4 Additional Information About Flatlocking e The tensions must be correctly adjusted for the fabric to pull flat The upper looper thread is the prominent thread in the flatlock stitch Place a decorative thread in the upper looper and inconspicuous threads in the lower looper and n
13. 14HD854 2 3 4 THREAD HEAVY DUTY OVERLOCK MACHINE Instruction Manual Heavy Duty SINGER 14HD854 PREFACE Thank you for your purchase of this overlock machine This machine intended for household use will provide you with excellent performance in sewing from light to heavy fabric lawn to denim Please refer to this booklet for proper use and optimum service To get the most out of your overlock machine read the entire operator s guide before attempting to operate the machine Then familiarize yourself with the machine by following the operator s guide page by page To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern overlock capabilities the manufacturer reserves the right to change the appearance design or accessories of this overlock machine when considered necessary without notification or obligation For European Territories This SINGER Overlock Machine was tested according to European norms and meets the requirements regarding electrical safety radio interference and electromagnetic immunity The conformity is documented with the mark IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS If the supply cord is damaged it must be replaced by the manufacturer or its service agent or a similarly qualified person in order to avoid a hazard This appliance is not intended for use by persons including children with reduced physical sensory or mental ca pabilities or lack of experience and knowledge unless they hav
14. DITCIGNAl FOGG dergiye nTa eke ner es ake ws 23 e Gathered overedge 2 6 0 2 0beebeens 23 Strelch overedg x0 2b veka eaddatihynghwoes 24 How to Disengage Movable Upper Knife 25 Converting the upper looper into spreader 26 Free Arm Sewing Tubular Work 27 Standard Overedge and Rolled Hem Stitching 28 eTo sew standard overedge 28 eTo sew rolled hem onnan anana 28 Chaining Off and Test Sewing Page 22 Starting and Ending Seams 30 10 Dial a CCAM o r e ears 20 ai eh life SEIM Meee ee E ae eee 30 23 Suggested Tension Setting 000 31 1 2 thread wrapped edge overlock 31 2 2 thread standard rolled hem stitching 32 3 3 Thread Overlock 00 cece 33 A 3 Thread Flatlock l a 34 5 3 Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock 35 6 4 Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch 26 24 How to Sew a Rolled Hem la 37 1 a 2 thread wrapped edge overlock 38 b 2 thread standard rolled hem stitching 38 2 a 3 thread standard rolled hem stitching 39 b 3 thread upper looper thread wrapped rolled hem stitching 00 00 0000 39 25 Stitch Variations and Sewing Techniques 41 eHow to sew a flatlock decorative seam lt lt 41 How to sew an overlock blind hem 43 SHOW to SEW Pin TUCKS 2c ie EET 43 Turning square COENS o cerea 44 aPN PIACOMOM a a e E oenk wats 45 e Securing the thre
15. EEN CLOTH THREAD AND NEEDLE Needle SINGER Cat No 2022 100 100 80 90 80 100 a 60 80 50 60 80 11 14 60 80 Type of Thread 40 60 40 60 60 80 50 80 80 90 60 80 11 14 60 80 60 80 60 80 60 80 50 60 Woolly tetron 11 14 SINGER needle Cat No 2022 is furnished with the machine However itis recommended that you select your needle in accordance with the material you are sewing 29 SPECIFICATION Sewing speed 1 200 150 spm Stitch length feed amount 1 4mm standard rolled hemming F 2 ordinary overedge 3 0 Differential feed ratio 1 0 7 1 2 with differential feed machine Overedge stitch width Rolled hemming 1 5mm ordinary overedge 3 0 6 7mm standard 3 5mm Needle bar stroke 27mm Presser foot rise 4 5 5 0mm Needle SINGER Cat No 2022 14 SINGER Cat No 2022 16 Mod l 14HD854 Number of threads 2 3 4 Machine dimensions mm Width 338 Depth 280 Height 265 Weight Kg 6 2 51 52 NOTES ee English Part No 600357 002 Rev 2
16. ON OOH wWh CONTENTS Page SElOCHON OF OUICNES 5 oj i whos Ghee gdh pena on 5 Handy Reference Chart 2 2 200 6 g PACCOSSOUCS 5 5 jt tir 2a ale be Sen dare eh ine 7 Needle INfOrMAllON 65 3 5 Sch aaan aaan 7 pPRIRGID A ANS totais acai hd Slee dale ce ea bdetps 8 How to Open Looper Cover l a anaana 9 Principal Parts Behind Looper Cover 9 Preparation Prior to Sewing 9 Preparation for Threading 10 e Setting up the thread guide holder 10 How to Remove and Insert Needles 11 e To remove needie s 00 0 00 11 TO NSE NECIELS so sancasoen eats aurea nade 11 lt Threading the Machine 05 12 threading Gladtalt i645 44k os ok eee hoes 12 e Understanding the color code 12 e To thread the machine correctly 12 1 Threading the upper looper Orange 12 2 Threading the lower looper Yellow 3 Threading the right needle Green 16 4 Threading the left needle Blue 18 mportant threading information 19 How to Change Threads Tie on Method 20 How to Adjust the Stitch Length 21 How to Adjust the Seam Width 24 e Width adjustment by changing needle position 24 e Width adjustment with adjustment knob 21 How to Adjust the Presser Foot Pressure 22
17. TH FINGER KNOB s STITCH LENGTH ain Needle thread Upper looper thread Lower looper thread Underside 505 o5 50 os Heavy weight 0 5 e Lomwe os 50 7o Medium weight o5 5 0 70 pease os s0 70 i Needle thread Low r looper thread Upper looper thread Topside Underside Needle thread P H e thread Upper looper Pra ia Lo thread Topside r looper thread Underside wo A A e WOOOOES Needle thread Needle thread Lower looper thread Underside Upper looper thread Topside 5 3 thread Wrapped Edge Overlock Note These are suggested tension settings only Tension settings are effected by 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fiber content of thread Correct Balance Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and test sew on a sample of your fabric How to Balance e When the upper looper thread tension is too loose Turn the upper looper thread tension dial orange toward a higher number When the lower looper thread tension is too loose Turn the lower looper thread tension dial yellow toward a higher number Or turn the upper looper thread tension dial orange toward a lower number e When the needle thread tension is too loose Turn the needle thread tension dial blue or green toward a higher number Or turn the upper looper thread tension dial orange toward a lower number
18. ad chain aaa 45 e How to reinforce a seam L a aaan 46 Braiding Dy chaining Olla seein eenn 46 26 Machine Maintenance ss 47 e Cleaning the machine 47 POMNG INS MACAING ou eeeeri i nadra eae 47 e How to replace the stationary knife 48 27 Troubleshooting Chart aaau aaaea 49 28 Relationship between Cloth Thread and Needle 50 29 SPCCHIC ANON era r a e E yell 51 1 SELECTION OF STITCHES This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of needle positions threading methods tension adjustment Reference Stitch Type Pages j 1 needle 2 thread stitch is used for Two thread light weight or knits fabrics Also a wrapped edge Ae amit 3 5mm and 5 7mm wrapped overlock overlock seam width can be obtained by Sooo changing the needle position 1 needle 2 thread stitch is used for overedge seaming blindstitch hemming on edge finishing operations hemsiitchin Also a 3 5mm and 5 mm standard g preia rolled hem seam width can be obtained Two thread standard rolled by changing the needle position thr Three thread 1 needle 3 thread stitch is used for Overlock A y overedging and seaming on common fabrics Also a 3 5mm and 5 7mm overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position i Three thread Flatlock a 1 needle 3 thread stitch is used for butted A or lapped seams and ornamental stitching e with decorative thread Also a 3
19. cover and into slot B in pressure regulating screw and turn regulating screw as required Note Turn regulating screw counterclockwise until it stops against the top cover Then turn screw clockwise 6 turns which will be the standard presser bar pressure e For lightweight fabric Decrease the pressure e For heavyweight fabric Increase the pressure 22 C 45 3 5 Rolled hem When shipped from factory 3 0mm 16 DIFFERENTIAL FEED Differential feed is a system which stretches or gathers the fabric when amount of feed of front feed dog in relation to the rear feed dog is changed The differential feed ratio ranges from 1 0 7 1 2 0 Adjustment is made by means of the differential feed adjusting lever pictured below Use of differential feed is very effective in overedging stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias e Graduation 1 0 is differential feed adjusting lever setting for ratio 1 1 Gathered Overedge e Gathered overedge is most suited for shirring sleeves yokes front and back bodices skirt hems etc in stretch fabrics such as knits and jersey before assembling into garment To set the differential feed adjusting lever e Set differential feed adjusting fever knob below graduation 1 0 Setting of adjusting lever knob depends on material being sewn as well as the amount of gather therefore set knob to suit the fabric and test sew before sewing your garme
20. e been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance Switch off or unplug the machine when leaving it unattended Before servicing the appliance unplug the machine x If the light is damaged it must be replace by authorized dealer Correct Disposal of this product This marking indicates that this product should not be disposed with other household wastes throughout the European Union To prevent possible harm to the environment or human health from uncontrolled waste disposal recycle it responsibly to promote the sustainable reuse of material resources To return your used device please use the return and collection systems or contact the retailer where the product was purchased eT hey can take this product for environmental safe recycling i N CE Authorised Representative VSM Group AB SVP Worldwide Drottninggatan 2 SE 56184 Huskvarna SWEDEN a z SINGER is the exclusive trademark of The SINGER Company Limited S r l or its Affiliates 2012 The SINGER Company Limited S r l or its Affiliates All rights reserved IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using this machine basic safety precautions should always be followed including the following Read all instructions before using the machine AN DANG E R To reduce the risk of electric shock
21. e right needle 8 Note Use of tweezers in the accessory set will make needle eye threading easy Draw about 10cm 4 inches of thread through needle eye to hang free e Place the thread to the back under the presser foot 17 4 Threading the Left Needle Blue e Thread the left needle as indicated 1 7 e Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread downward until it slips under thread guide 2 e While holding thread with finger pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 18 e Continue to thread points 4 6 Note Be sure to pass the thread through lower thread path of the thread guide 5 e Thread the eye of the left needle 7 Note Use of tweezers in the accessory set will make needle eye threading easy Draw about 10cm 4 inches of thread through needle eye to hang free e Place the thread to the back under the presser foot Important Threading Information e Always thread the needle s last to prevent misthreading the lower looper If the lower looper should come unthreaded 1 Unthread the needle s 2 Thread the lower looper 3 Thread the needie s AK Rie al KK Correct oro View Wrong View 19 20 12 HOW TO CHANGE THREADS TIE ON METHOD To change thread type or col
22. eedle Underside For a ladder stitch sew seam with right sides together The needle thread will be the prominent thread that creates the ladder A Topside 42 How to Sew an Overlock Blind Hem The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the raw edges are overlocked in one operation The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible Remove the left needle and adjust machine for a narrow 3 thread overlock stitch Note The three thread flatlock stitch can also be used Set the stitch length dial at 4 Fold the hem to the wrong side of the fabric then back to the right side with 6mm 1 4 beyond the fold Stitch on the extended hem edge allowing the machine needle to barely catch the edge of the fold How to Sew Pin Tucks e Sew decorative pin tucks on the fabric before cutting out the garment Remove the left needle and adjust machine for a narrow 3 thread overlock stitch Note The rolled hem stitch can also be used for this technique Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position page 25 e Mark the fabric with the desired number of pin tucks using a water soluble fabric marker Remove 43 e Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and sew e Press the pin tucks in the same direction Cutting line Turning Square Corners 1 Outside Corner Cut out approximately 2 cm 51 64
23. ght o5 smear 50 Tension Dial Blue Green Orange Yellow m 1 0 preader 6 5 How to Balance e When the lower looper thread is botton side of the fabric Turn the lower looper thread tension dial yellow Lower looper toward a higher number thread Or turn the needle thread tension dial blue or green toward a lower number e When the needle thread tension is too loose Turn the needle thread tension dial blue on green toward a lower number Or turn the lower looper thread tension dial yellow toward a lower number Lower looper thread Topside Underside 32 3 3 thread Overlock Note x These are suggested tension settings only NEEDLE POSITION Tension settings are effected by ep NGEDIGNOE 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size STITCH LENGTH 3 Size type and fiber content of thread Needle thread Correct Balance e Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and test sew on a sample of your fabric i thread Topside f f Underside Fabric Tension Dial H to Bal i ew Blue Green Orange Yellow a A Light weight 25 30 3 0 Medi ight When the upper looper thread lies on the underside Medium weight 3 0 3 0 3 0 Turn the upper looper thread tension dial Upper looper thread orange to a higher number Or turn the lower looper thread tension dial yellow to a lower number Needle thread e When the lower looper thread appears on the top of fab
24. inch from the corner in line with the overedge seam edge e Sew one stitch beyond point A and stop Raise needle and presser foot e Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just enough to release the thread caught on the finger of the throat plate Note Presser foot has been removed to show detail AAAA AA WAIANAE TAN AALAN WTE am ag e Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that the knife is positioned in line with the cut edge eee ee ees ee ee ae 2 e Pull slack threads up then start to sew 2 Inside Corner e Cut fabric at seam edge Cut Slit 44 e Place the movable upper knife in nonworking position page 25 Stitch on cut edge of fabric e Stop sewing before you reach the corner and fold the fabric to the left to straighten the corner e Continue to sew slowly holding the fabric edge in a straight line moving the fold as you sew Pin Placement Insert pins to the left of the presser foot The pins will be easy to remove and are away from the cutting action of the knives Caution Sewing over pins will damage and or destroy the cutting edge of the knives Securing the Thread Chain e Thread a large eye hand sewing needle such as a tapestry needle with the thread chain Insert the needle into the end of the seam to secure thread Note To secure a rolled hem thread chain see page 39 45 How to Reinforce a Seam Inserting twill tape while o
25. ing Seams To Start a Seam e To start a seam on most fabrics first bring the thread tail under the presser foot and then to the left of the machine e Hold the thread tail and step on the foot controller to begin sewing Sew until you have created a 3 7 5 cm chain e Place the fabric on the feed dogs in front of the foot Start sewing Note For heavy or thick fabrics it is recommended to use SINGER needles 2022 size 100 16 Heavy or thick fabrics may be more difficult to feed than others In these cases start by cutting a notch at the beginning of the seam about 1 2 5 cm down from the top of the fabric and along the seam line x Lift the presser foot and raise the needles Place the notch so that the top edge of the fabric is in front of the needles with the cut edge lined up next to the blade Lower the presser foot and sew To End a Seam e To end a seam continue sewing past the end of the fabric until the thread chain forms e Cut the thread leaving atleast 3 7 5 cm at the end of the fabric 30 23 SUGGESTED TENSION SETTING 1 2 Thread wrapped edge overlock Note These are suggested tension settings only x Tension settings are effected by 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fiber content of thread See page 26 to converting the upper looper into spreader Correct Balance Set each tension dial to settings shown at right a
26. lower looper thread appears on the top Topside thread Sauces of the fabric Upper looper thread Turn lower looper thread tension dial yellow wr toward a higher number Or turn the upper looper thread tension dial thread Rae a BS looper na E a we p thread os T Right needle Bie AAA Lower OOOIOES ka a orange toward a lower number thread ee ma thread Topside Underside When the left needle thread tension is too loose i tite Turn the left needle thread tension dial blue WY Lower toward a higher number Right Ye e needle ESS thread Left SF needle A Topside thread Underside Upper looper thread e When the right needle thread tension is too loose RN WAV ives eee Turn the right needle thread tension dial green Biani b mi AR looper Ig PRIRJRLR LLY ap toward a higher number Seat LSS thread thread Se ee thread a opside Underside E 36 24 HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM e This machine can sew four types of rolled hems Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedging the fabric edge Light weight fabrics such as lawn voil organdy crepe etc perform the best Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff fabrics Machine Set Up Remove the left needle Move seam width finger knob to setting R See page 28 Align left face of seam width finger support plate with R mark on throat plate by turning seam width finger knob as required
27. nd test sew on a sample of your fabric How to Balance e When the lower looper thread tension is too tight or the needle thread tension is too loose Turn the lower looper thread tension dial yellow toward a lower number Or turn the needle thread tension dial blue or green toward a higher number e When the lower looper thread tension is too loose Turn the looper thread tension dial yellow toward a higher number NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB S STITCH LENGTH 2 4 SPREADER USE Low r looper thread Underside 502 Tension Dial i Medium weight 35 Spreader 10 Heavyweight 40 Smer 10 Tension Dial neue tightweist T 25 spreader 2 0 Medium weight 4 0 spreader 2 0 Heavy weight 5 0 Spreader 2 0 Low r looper thread Underside Lower looper thread Topside Underside 31 2 2 Thread standard rolled hem stitching NEEDLE POSITION Note These are suggested tension settings only SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH Tension settings are effected by SPREADER USE 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fiber content of thread VIII See page 26 to converting the upper looper into spreader Lower looper thread Correct Balance Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and Topside Undersid test sew on a sample of your fabric p naersiae 503 Tension Dial Fabric Towe 0 fse s0 Mesum wei
28. nt e When feed regulating dial is set at 3 or over the amount of feed of the main feed dog will change to 3 automatically when adjusting lever knob is set d to 2 0 ag Note For normal overedge stitching set differential feed adjusting lever knob to graduation 1 0 Stretch Overedge Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative collars sleeves skirt hems etc on loosely knit and woven fabrics To set the differential feed adjusting lever 24 e Set differential feed adjusting lever knob above graduation 1 0 To sew a seam apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot Note If amount of stretch is not correctly set in relation to the fabric being sewn the fabric is apt to shift away from the needle resulting in improperly sewn overedge seam In such case reset differential feed adjusting lever closer to the center mark Be sure to reset the differential feed adjusting lever to graduation 1 0 for normal overedge stitching 17 HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE UPPER KNIFE Caution Be sure to turn off power switch To place movable knife in nonworking position Turn handwheel over toward you and raise upper knife to its highest position Open looper cover page 9 Push the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go e Turn the knob away from you until the knife clicks into
29. nt with Adjustment Knob Use of width adjustment knob will permit further adjustment within the width range shown below a When only left needle is used 5 2 6 7 mm 13 64 17 64 inch b When only right needle is used 3 0 4 5 mm 1 8 11 64 inch 5 mm 7 32 t Left Right needle Left Right needle 5 7 mm i 7 32 t Left needle 17 64 t Left needle De a i i h i A l 3 5 mm 9 64 4 a Right needle y A a ee A ae a Y K i i ea S 3 0 mm 1 8 4 5 mm 11 64 Right needle 21 Width adjustment knob Caution Before making adjustments be sure to turn off power switch Opening the looper cover wil make adjustment easier e Push the upper knife to the right and while maintain the knife in this position turn the knob away to adjuste the desired seam width using te graduations on the throat plate as a guideline Caution Always close looper cover before operating machine 15 HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE e The presser foot pressure of this machine is preadjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of medium weight fabrics Most of the materials do not require adjustment of presser foot pressure however there are some instances where adjustment is necessary when sewing lightweight and heavyweight fabrics In such case insert screwdriver through access hole A in top
30. o Replace the Stationary Knife A N Danger Before replacing the stationary knife 48 disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle The stationary knife should be changed when it becomes dull The stationary knife can be replaced according to the directions provided however if there are any difficulties experienced consult your SINGER representative to make the adjustments Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the electric source Open the looper cover and set the movable upper knife 1 in the nonworking position page 25 Loosen the stationary knife set screw 2 and remove the stationary knife 3 Place a new Stationary knife in the groove of the Stationary knife holder Tighten stationary knife set screw 2 Return the movable upper knife 1 to its working position 27 TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART Fabric does not feed well Needle breaks Thread breaks stitches skip irregular stitches Fabric puckers Irregular trimming Fabric jams Machine does not operate Lengthen stitch length Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight fabric Insert needle correctly Do not pull fabric while sewing Tighten needle set screw Use a larger needle on heavy fabrics Check threading Check for tangled or caught thread Insert needle correctly Insert new needle current needle may be bent or have
31. or clip thread near the spool Piace new thread on stand Tie new thread and old thread ends together Clip thread tails to 2 3cm 1 inch length If clipped too short threads may come untied Firmly pull both thread to test knot security Note tension dial settings Turn the tension dials down until the dial stops Pull the threads through the machine one at a time if threads do not pull easily check for tangles on thread guides or looping under thread stand When pulling thread through the needle STOP when the knot is in front of the needle Cut the thread and insert it through the needle Return tension dials to previous settings 13 HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCH LENGTH e The stitch length dial should be set on the 3 mm 1 8 inch setting for most sewing conditions Adjust the stitch length to 4mm 5 32 inch when sewing heavy weight fabrics e Adjust the stitch length to 2mm 5 64 inch when sewing light weight fabrics to obtain excellent seams without puckering 14 HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM WIDTH Overedge seam width can be achieved by repositioning the needle position and also with the width adjustment knob l Width Adjustment by Changing Needle Position e Overedge seam width can be adjusted by changing the needle position a When only left needle is used 5 7 mm 7 32 inch b When only right needle is used 3 5mm 9 64 inch Width Adjustme
32. or coded thread guides 4 7 Note Use the tweezers provided in the accessory set to aid in threading the looper Grasp the thread with the tweezers 4 cm 1 1 2 inches from thread guide 7 Place the thread with the point of the tweezers slightly under and to the left of threading guide 8 Pull the thread up and into thread guide 8 Pass the thread behind and over the top end of left looper 9 A Then pull it downward gently so that it will slip into the slot in the looper 9 B Pick up the thread and pass it through the hole in the end of the looper 10 Note Use the tweezers provided in the accessory set to aid in threading the looper The thread should be positioned in the groove of the lower looper Pull about 10cm 4 inches of thread through the looper and place it over the top of the upper looper and to the back of the throat plate 15 3 Threading the Right Needle Green e Thread the right needle as indicated 1 8 e Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread downward until it slips under thread guide 2 e While holding thread with finger pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 16 e Continue to thread points 4 7 Note Be sure to pass the thread through upper thread path of the thread guide 6 e Thread the eye of th
33. outlet before removing needle s e Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest position e Loosen but do not remove the needle set screw with the small screwdriver Left needle set screw Right needie set screw Left needle Right needle hwhN Remove the needle s Flat surface to the rear To Insert Needle s Caution A N Be sure to disconnect the machine from the electric outlet before replacing needle s Hold the needle with the flat surface to the back Insert the needle into the needle clamp as far as it will go with help of lint brush e Securely tighten the needle set screw Note This machine uses 2022 needles Refer to page 7 for additional needle information Remove the cloth plate if you find it difficult to remove and replace the needle 11 11 THREADING THE MACHINE Threading Diagram e A color coded threading diagram is located inside the looper cover for quick reference e Thread the machine in the order 1 to 4 as shown Understanding the Color Code 1 Upper looper thread Orange 2 Lower looper thread Yellow 3 Right needle thread Green 4 Left needle thread Blue To Thread The Machine Correctly Caution Be sure to turn off power switch Presser Foot needs to be up before threading You MUST rethread all 4 threads if one breaks 1 Threading the er Looper Orange
34. per cover before operating the machine x Keep presser foot and needles away from children s reach Do not dismantle or modify the machine yourself Be sure to turn off the power switch and disconnect the power line plug before caring for your machine as instructed in the operator s guide SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS Servicing should be performed by an authorized service representative This product is not intended for industrial use FOR EUROPEAN AND SIMILAR TERRITORIES Machines for Great Britain and some other countries having similar wiring standards are shipped from the factory without a plug for connection to the mains The wires in this mains lead are colored in accordance with the following code Blue neutral N Brown live L As the colors of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored markings identifying the terminals in your plug proceed as follows The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter N or colored black The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with letter L or colored red If a 13 Amp BS 1363 plug is used a 3 Amp fuse must be fitted or if any other type of plug is used a 5 Amp fuse must be fitted either in the plug or adaptor or at the distribution board Neither cord is to be connected to the earth terminal of a three pin plug 12 13 14 15 16 OM
35. reak Do not use bent needles When sewing keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the sewing machine needle Do not pull or push fabric while stitching It may deflect the needle causing it to break Use only the handle to lift and move the machine Never operate the machine if it has a damaged cord or plug if it is not working properly if it has been dropped or damaged or dropped into the water Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or Service Center for examination repair electrical or mechanical adjustment Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth Never drop or insert any object into any opening Do not use outdoors Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered Do not allow to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children x Do not expose the machine or machine plastic case to sunlight directly Aiso do not keep it in a very warm or damp place Do not touch the machine foot controller and power line cord with wet hand wet cloth or with anything wet Do not connect power line cord to one of the many cords connected to one power outlet with adapters Use machine on flat and stable table x Be sure to close the cylinder cover and loo
36. ric Turn the lower looper thread tension dial yellow toward a higher number Or turn the upper looper thread tension dial orange to a lower number Needle thread Topside Upper looper thread Topside e When the needle thread ts too loose turn the needle tension dial blue or green to a higher ae eee number AANA Fi LOJ IS Upper looper thread gt Ye Lower looper Needle thread A he thread Topside Underside 33 4 3 thread Flatlock Note These are suggested tension settings only x Tension settings are effected by 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fiber content of thread Correct Balance Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and test sew on a sample of your fabric Howto Balance o gt e When the lower looper thread tension is too loose Turn the lower looper thread tension dial yellow toward a higher number Or turn the needie thread tension dial blue or green toward a lower number e When the upper looper thread tension is too loose Turn the upper looper thread tension dial orange toward a higher number Or turn the needle thread tension dial blue or green toward a lower number e When the needle thread tension is too loose Turn the needle thread tension dial blue or green toward a higher number Or turn the upper looper thread tension dial orange toward a lower number 34 NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WID
37. shown on this page as well as throughout the operator s manual are suggested guides Adjust thread tensions to suit the fabric and size of thread used For best results make tension adjustments in small increments of no greater than half a number at a time 3 ACCESSORIES Accessories are contained in the accessory case in the cloth plate 14HD854 Needle set Screw driver small size Tweezers Spreader Lint brush with hole for mounting needle Spare lower knife Scrap bag in the carton 4 NEEDLE INFORMATION SINGER needles 2022 size 100 16 mounted on the machine and size 90 14 in the accessory case are furnished with the machine SINGER needles 2022 size 100 16 are intended to be used with heavy weight fabrics It is recommended to change the needles size to work on lighter weight fabrics Please go on page 50 to find more information on the relationship between cloth thread and needle In an emergency standard SINGER needles 2020 may be used However unless the suggested tension setting is readjusted skipping of the stitches may occur SINGER needle 2022 80 11 90 14 100 16 Sizes available 5 PRINCIPAL PARTS CON Oa fh Nh r Ses se oe ee a a a A ON OO WM CO OO Thread guides and holder Handle Left needle thread tension dial blue Right needle thread tension dial green Upper looper thread tension dia orange Lower looper thread tension dial yellow Throat plate
38. veredge sewing will stabilize the seam e Insert the tape through the hoie in the front of the foot e Position the tape under the foot to the back of the machine and sew the garment seam Se A a a a TE ONETO UNO ANANA A The tape is attached as the seam is sewn Braiding by Chaining Off e Place the movable upper knife in nonworking position Insert filler cord such as yarn or twill tape through the hole in the front of the foot Position the filler cord under the foot and chain off the desired length e Chained off braids can be used individually or woven into 3 or 4 ply braids 46 26 MACHINE MAINTENANCE An overlock requires more maintenance than a conventional machine mainly due to two reasons 1 A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action of the knives 2 An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal working parts Cleaning the Machine Danger Before cleaning your machine disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle e Clean the lint from the looper and knife area often with a dry lint brush Note Lint brush is an optional part Oiling the Machine Danger Before lubricating your machine disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle The oiling points shown in the diagram should be oiled periodically Note Use sewing machine oil Do not use any other oil or damage could result 47 How t
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