JANOME Sewist500 Instruction Booklet
Contents
1. 27 Corded Buttonhole Machine setting Stitch pattern BH Stitch width 4 5 3 Stitch length 0 5 1 Thread tension 1 5 Presser foot Automatic buttonhole foot R With the buttonhole foot raised hook the filler cord on the spur at the back of the foot Bring the ends toward you under the foot clearing the front end Hook the filler cord into the forks on the front of the foot to hold them tight Spur 2 Forks 2 Draw both needle and bobbin thread to the left Lower the needle into the fabric at the starting point and lower the foot Depress the foot control gently and sew the buttonhole over the cord The sewing sequence is the same as the automatic buttonhole 3 Needle thread 4 Bobbin thread Starting point w Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it and cut the excess tails To cut the buttonhole opening refer to the instructions on page 25 I lwo A lo Manual Buttonhole Machine setting Stitch pattern BH Stitch width 4 5 3 Stitch length 0 5 1 4 Thread tension 1 5 5 Presser foot Buttonhole f2. 36 Quilting Machine setting Stitch pattern A 2 Stitch width Oor5 Stitch length 1 5 4 4 Thread tension 3 6 Presser foot Zigzag foot A Quilting guide The quilting guide will help keep the seam spacing constant Insert the quilting guide into the opening and set the quilting guide at the desired seam spacing Quilting guide 2 Opening for the quilting guide Sew tracing the previous row of stitching with the quilting guide 3 Seam spacing Pin Tucking Machine setting Stitch pattern A 2 Stitch width Oor5 Stitch length 1 5 3 4 Thread tension 2 6 Presser foot Blind hemming foot G Fold a fabric wrong side together and Lower the needle into the fabric 0 1 0 2 cm inside the folded edge Lower the foot and turn the screw to align the guide on the foot with the folded edge Sew slowly while guiding the folded edge along the guide Open the fabric and iron press the tucks Screw 2 Guide 3 Folded edge Shell Tucking Machine setting Stitch pattern G 2 Stitch width 5 3 Stitch length 2 3 4 Thread tension 6 8 5 Presser foot Buttonhole foot B Use a lightweight fabric tricot for example Fold and stitch on the bias Wh
3. N w A ol Draw the thread from the spool and pass it under the thread guide Then draw it down along the right channel Thread guide 2 Right channel Draw the thread up around the bottom of the thread guide plate Pull the thread up along the left channel 3 Thread guide plate 4 Left channel Firmly draw the thread from right to left over the thread take up lever and down into the take up lever eye Thread take up lever Draw the thread down along the left channel and slip the thread behind the needle bar thread guide from the left Needle bar thread guide Pass the thread through the needle eye from the front or use the needle threader refer to the next page Needle threader w A Raise the needle to its highest position and lower the presser foot Push down the needle threader knob as far as it will go The hook comes out through the needle eye from behind Threader knob Draw the thread from the left around the guide and under the hook 2 Guide 3 Hook Release the knob slowly while holding the thread end with your hand A loop of the thread is pulled up through the needle eye Pull out the end of the thread through the needle eye Drawing up the Bobb
4. cccecceteetteeees 16 Stitch Width Dia lessos sangat nd tuneet aana iiaa edan aa 16 Variable needle position seessssseesrrreerssrrnseeerneesrnnns 16 Balancing Needle Thread Tension esssscsscss 17 SETION 3 BASIC SEWING Straight Stitch Sewing c cceeceeeseeeeseeeteeeeeeeseeeeeees 18 Changing the Sewing direction ceeceeeeessteeeeeeeees 18 Finishing SOWING eosina a 18 Seam guides on the needle plate cceeeees 19 Turning a square COPED 0 eeeececeeeeeeeceeeeteeeeeeeeeeteees 19 SECTION 4 UTILITY STITCHES Basie ZIQGZAG ies saiarints savawatist veeddues canedelt it aeeesila tiewdinil eae 20 OV ENCASUING wesc es igtececct nap teecexsapeee tes ET 20 KAN SUCH ursis tatean aan aa en a a a 21 Tricot Stitch Multiple Zigzag Stitch eee 21 Straight Stretch Stiho Mersinin 22 Zigzag Stretch Stitch ee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeseeeseteeeeeseeeeees 22 Button SOWING ii niieeia ee 23 Automatic Buttonhole cceecceeeeceeeeeeeeeseeeeeeeeeeeeee 24 Adjusting the buttonhole stitch density cceeeee 26 Corded Buttonhole 0 ccccceeeeeeceeeeeeeeeeeeeeteeeeeeaeeeeaes 27 Manual Buttonhole ccc eeeeeeeeeeeneeeeeeeeenaeeeeeeeaaes 28 Zipper AP PlICALIOM sassvseseeseetvacie cds maaa 30 Blind Hemmi senenn 33 SECTION 5 DECORATIVE STITCHES Decorative Satin Stitches 0 cceceeeeeeeeeeesteeeeeneeees 34 Decorative Stretch Stitches cccceeeeeeeeeteeeeeeeeees 3
5. 2 Bobbin holder 3 Brush out dust and lint Wipe the bobbin holder with a soft dry cloth 4 Clean the feed dogs and hook race with the lint brush 3 Lint brush 4 Feed dogs 5 Wipe the hook race with a soft dry cloth Hook race NOTE You may also use a vacuum cleaner 40 Replacing the Bobbin Holder N Insert the bobbin holder into the hook race Make sure the knob of the bobbin holder fits next to the stopper on the race Knob 2 Stopper Replace the bobbin Attach the needle plate inserting the two guide pins into the holes in the needle plate Tighten the screw firmly with the screwdriver 3 Guide holes Screw Replacing the Light Bulb WARNING When replacing the bulb switch off and unplug the machine Wait for the light bulb to cool down before touching it Remove the cap and screw Remove the face plate Cap 2 Screw 3 Face plate Push and turn the bulb counterclockwise to remove it Push and turn the bulb clockwise to replace it Light bulb Troubleshooting Condition Cause Reference The needle thread 1 The needle thread is not threaded properly Page 10 breaks 2 The needle thread tension is too tight Page 17 3 The needle is bent or blunt Page 8
6. 2 Pin Fabric preparation Add 3 8 1 cm to the zipper size This is the overall opening size Right side of the fabric 3 8 1 cm 3 Opening size Zipper size Slider Zipper teeth Zipper tape Wrong side of the fabric End of the opening 2 Place the right top sides of the fabric together Sew a bottom seam 5 8 2 cm from the right edge to the zipper bottom stop position Sew a few stitches in reverse to lock Increase the stitch length to 4 set needle thread tension to 1 and baste the entire length of the fabric 5 8 2 cm Basting 4D Reverse stitch 43 End of the opening Bottom seam Wt 31 To sew Attach zipper foot with the right side pin Fold back the upper layer seam allowance Fold back the lowerlayer seam allowance to leave a 1 8 0 4 cm margin of fabric Lower layer 2 End of the opening 3 Zipper teeth 1 8 0 4 cm margin Upper layer Opening size Folded edge Basting Place zipper teeth next to margin edge and baste the zipper tape to the lower fabric layer Align zipper foot with margin edge Return thread tension and stitch length to original settings Sew a seam the entire length of zipper tape Stop the machine 2 5 cm before reaching the slider wit
7. 4 The needle is incorrectly inserted Page 8 5 The needle thread and the bobbin thread are not drawn to the rear and set properly under the presser foot when starting sewing Page 18 6 The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing is finished Page 18 7 The thread is too heavy or too fine for the needle Page 8 The bobbin thread 1 The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the breaks bobbin holder Page 11 2 Lint has collected in the bobbin holder Page 40 3 The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly Replace the bobbin 4 The thread is wound loosely on the bobbin Re wind the bobbin The needle breaks 1 Needle is incorrectly inserted Page 8 2 The needle is bent or blunt Page 8 3 The needle clamp screw is loose Page 8 4 A proper foot is not used Use proper foot 5 The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing is finished Page 18 6 The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn Page 8 The needle thread 1 The needle thread tension is too loose Page 17 loops 2 The needle size is not suitable for the thread Page 8 Skipped stitches 1 The needle is incorrectly inserted Page 8 2 The needle is bent or blunt Page 8 3 The needle and or thread are not suitable for the fabric being sewn Page 8 4 A blue tip needle is not used for sewing stretch very fine fabrics and synthetics Page 8 5 The needle thread is not threaded properly Page 10 6 A poor quality needle is used Replace the needle Seam puckering 1 T
8. B Automatic buttonhole foot R Needles Bobbins Screwdriver Lint brush Seam ripper buttonhole opener Quilting guide Spool holder large Spool holder small 4 Additional spool pin 4 Felt cushion BOVOOGEO Accessory storage The standard accessories can be stored in the accessory storage box under the extension table Draw out the storage box from the table as shown Accessory storage box S Extension Table To detach Pull the extension table to the left To attach Insert the pin into the hole and push the extension table to snap it in place Pin 2 Hole Free arm sewing Free arm sewing is used for stitching sleeves waistbands pant legs or any other tubular garments It is also useful for darning socks or mending knees or elbows S SECTION 2 GETTING READY TO SEW Connecting the Power Supply Turn the power switch off Insert the machine plug into the machine socket Insert the power supply plug into the wall outlet Turn the power switch on Power switch 2 Machine plug 3 Machine socket 4 Power supply plug Wall outlet A loo IN NOTE Before connecting to the power supply make sure the voltage shown on the machine conforms to your electrical power N Operating Instructions A WARNING While in operation always keep your eyes on the sewing are
9. and continue sewing in the new direction Finishing sewing Press the reverse stitch lever and sew several stitches in reverse at the end of the seam Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric drawing the threads to the back Draw the threads up and into the thread cutter The threads are cut the proper length for starting the next seam Thread cutter Seam guides on the needle plate The seam guides on the needle plate help you to measure seam allowance The numbers indicate the distance between the center needle position and the seam guide Seam guides Number 15 20 4 8 5 8 6 8 Spacing cm 1 5 2 0 1 3 1 6 1 9 Spacing inch 5 8 3 4 1 2 5 8 3 4 Turning a square corner The cornering guide helps you maintain a 5 8 1 6 cm seam allowance when sewing a corner When the fabric edge facing you lines up with the cornering guide as illustrated stop stitching and lower the needle into the fabric by turning the handwheel toward you Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric so the edge of the fabric will align with the 5 8 1 6 cm seam guide Lower the presser foot and start stitching in the new direction 2 Cornering guide SECTION 4 UTILITY STITCHES Basic Zigzag Machine setting Stitch pattern C Stitch width 1 5 3 S
10. correct them by turning the stitch length dial If the patterns are drawn out correct them by setting the dial to the side If the patterns are compressed correct them by setting the dial to the side Stitch Width Dial Turn the stitch width dial to set the desired stitch width number at the setting mark The higher the number the wider the stitch Stitch width dial 2 Setting mark CAUTION Do not turn the stitch width dial while the needle is in the fabric otherwise the needle may bend or break Variable needle position The needle drop position of the straight stitches can be moved between the center 5 and left 0 with the stitch width dial Balancing Needle Thread Tension The thread tension should be adjusted depending on the sewing materials layers of fabric and sewing method To adjust the thread tension turn the tension dial Tension dial Balanced tension The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between two layers of fabric as illustrated For an ideal zigzag stitch the bobbin thread does not show on the right side top side of the fabric and the needle thread shows slightly on the wrong side bottom side of the fabric 2 Needle thread Top thread 3
11. of this sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth 5 Never drop or insert any object into any opening 6 Do not use outdoors 7 Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered 8 To disconnect turn all controls to the off O position then remove plug from outlet 9 Do not unplug by pulling on cord To unplug grasp the plug not the cord 10 Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the sewing machine needle 11 Always use the proper needle plate The wrong plate can cause the needle to break 12 Do not use bent needles 13 Do not pull or push fabric while stitching It may deflect the needle causing it to break 14 Switch this sewing machine off O when making any adjustment in the needle area such as threading the needle changing the needle threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot and the like 15 Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers lubricating or when making any other adjustments mentioned in this owner s manual SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS The design and specifications are subject to change without a prior notice TABLE OF CONTENTS SECTION 1 KNOW YOUR MACHINE Names Of Parts sisirin nueis iginiit eandis 2 Standard Accessories ccccecceessesteceeceeeeeceeeeeesesteaaees 3 Agcossory SLOLAG Oana S 3 Extension
12. 4 SIMIOCKING sinnini ierdie a n ais 35 UTI fics ca fas E an denecnt rade bth canny eguten sedevteateadendat enn 36 PUM TOCKO esenea AN OF Shell TUCKING sss asicea bees sentences dedins anapa ia aaa AGA 37 FAQOUMMG sonreir en ON 38 PtCNWOIK coissina anae EE EE ENEE EAAS 38 Neelo L0 EET PAE E AEE 39 SECTION 6 CARE AND MAINTENANCE Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogs 08 40 Replacing the Bobbin Holder sessen 41 Replacing the Light Bulb aeeessseeeesirrnneesresssrrrnns 41 TOUBIESMOOUUNG seeiscsseverteslineneedts stexedeev ates desi beaxeveey tree 42 SECTION 1 KNOW YOUR MACHINE Names of Parts BW SOSSGOVSHOOG8 GOHODOIGBDDOVOOOQOOQOHOHO Bobbin winder stopper Bobbin winder spindle Hole for additional spool pin Spool holder Spool pin Bobbin winder thread guide Thread take up lever Foot pressure dial Face plate Thread cutter Needle threader Needle plate Extension table Accessory storage Hook cover plate Hook cover plate release button Thread tension dial Reverse stitch lever Stitch length dial Pattern selector dial Stitch width dial Presser foot Needle Needle clamp screw Foot holder Setscrew Carrying handle Handwheel Power switch Machine socket Drop feed lever Free arm Buttonhole lever Foot lifter Standard Accessories Overedge foot C 2 Zipper foot E 3 Blind hemming foot G 4 Buttonhole foot
13. Bobbin thread Bottom thread 4 Right side Top side of fabric Wrong side Bottom side of fabric Needle thread tension is too tight The bobbin thread bottom thread will appear on the right side top side of the fabric Loosen the needle thread tension by moving the dial to a lower number Needle thread tension is too loose The needle thread top thread will form loops on the wrong side bottom side of the fabric Tighten the needle thread tension by moving the dial to a higher number SECTION 3 BASIC SEWING Straight Stitch Sewing Machine setting Stitch pattern A 2 Stitch width Oor5 Stitch length 1 5 4 4 Thread tension 2 6 Presser foot Zigzag foot A Starting to sew Raise the presser foot and place the fabric under the foot Lower the needle into the fabric Lower the presser foot and smooth the threads toward the back Depress the foot control NOTES Draw the threads to the left when sewing with the buttonhole foot To fasten the beginning of the seam first sew several stitches in reverse then sew forward Changing the sewing direction Stop the machine and turn the handwheel toward you to bring the needle down into the fabric Raise the presser foot Pivot the fabric around the needle to change sewing direction as desired Lower the presser foot
14. Guide N CAUTION Do not set the stitch width less than 5 when using the overedge foot C otherwise the needle may hit the foot causing the needle to bend or break 21 Tricot Stitch Multiple Zigzag Stitch Machine setting Stitch pattern D Stitch width 3 5 3 Stitch length 0 5 1 5 4 Thread tension 3 6 Presser foot Zigzag foot A This stitch is used to finish a raw edge on synthetics and other fabrics that tend to pucker Place the fabric to leave a 5 8 1 6 cm allowance Trim the extra allowance after sewing It is also used for mending tears DAA 22 Straight Stretch Stitch Machine setting Stitch pattern A 2 Stitch width Oor5 Stitch length S S 4 Thread tension 2 5 Presser foot Zigzag foot A The pattern is sewn with two stitches forward and one stitch backward forming a seam that does not rip easily Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and armhole seams Also use it when constructing items such as backpacks for extra strength Carefully guide the fabric while sewing as the fabric moves back and forth Zigzag Stretch Stitch Machine setting Stitch pattern C Stitch width 2 5 Stitch length S S 4 Thread tension 2 5 Presser foot Zigzag foot A Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch This stitch is used as a
15. INSTRUCTION BOOK Sewist 500 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using an electrical appliance basic safety precautions should always be followed including the followings Read all instructions before using this appliance DAN G E R To reduce the risk of electric shock 1 An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning 2 Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts WAR N I N G n reduce the risk of burns fire electric shock or injury to persons 1 Do not allow children to play with the machine The machine is not intended for use by children or infirmed persons without proper supervision Do not allow to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children 2 Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this owner s manual Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner s manual 3 Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug if it is not working properly if it has been dropped or damaged or dropped into water Return this sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination repair electrical or mechanical adjustment 4 Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked Keep ventilation openings
16. R NOTES The size of buttonhole is automatically determined by placing the button in the automatic buttonhole foot The button holder of the foot takes a button size up to 1 2 5 cm in diameter Make a test buttonhole on a sample duplicating the fabric interfacing and seams of the actual garment to check the settings Use interfacing on stretch fabrics Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its highest position Place the automatic buttonhole foot with the pin lies just under the groove on the foot holder Lower the foot lifter to snap the foot in place Groove 2 Pin N Pull to open the button holder to the back A and place the button in it Push back B the button holder against the button to hold it tight 3 Button holder NOTE For thick buttons make a test buttonhole If the button does not fit through the test buttonhole lengthen the buttonhole by pulling the button holder a little to the back 24 4 Pull a little Pull the buttonhole lever down as far as it will go 4 Buttonhole lever w gt Raise the foot and pass the needle thread through the opening in the foot Draw both needle and bobbin threads to the left Insert the fabric under the foot and lower the nee
17. Table cccccesescecceceesseeeeeeeaeeeseeceeeeaneeseeeees 4 Fr e arm SEWING s mersssiiiresriiraiionriai riiin 4 SECTION 2 GETTING READY TO SEW Connecting the Power Supply sssssssesssseessesesseesseeese 5 Controlling the Sewing Speed l n 5 Reverse Stitch Lever 0 cceccceceeeeeeeeteeeeeeeeeseeeeeeneeeees 6 Foot Pressure Dial cccccececeeccceeeeeeeeceeeeeeeeneeeeeenenes 6 Dropping the Feed Dog cccceceeeseeeeeceeeeeeeeeeteeesenes 6 Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot ceee 7 Changing the Presser Foot cccccceeeeseseeesetteeeeeneees 7 Removing and Attaching the Foot Holder 25 7 Changing Needles 0 ccccceeesceceeeeeeeeeeeeceeeeeeeaeeneeeeees 8 Needle and Thread Chatt c cccecccecseeeeeeeeeeseeeeeeeneeetees 8 Winding the Bobbin icncersr na a 9 Setting the SPOON sc cceteis viearesneds ana iian 9 Removing the Dobbin sssesicneerersenancndcannia 9 Winding the DODDIN saciesas nS 10 Inserting the bobbin sassssessirssessrresersrnnssesnnnesnrnnnssens 11 Threading the Machine secesii 12 Needle threader cccecccceceseeeeseeeeeeeaeeeeeneeeseaeeeseneees 13 Drawing up the Bobbin Thread l 14 Selecting the Stitch Pattern cccceseeeeeeeeeteeeeeeees 15 Pattern selector ial cccccecescececeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 15 Stitch Length Dial ecceceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeseeeeeees 15 Adjusting stretch stitch balance
18. a and do not touch any moving parts such as the thread take up lever handwheel or needle Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the power supply when leaving the machine unattended when attaching or removing parts when cleaning the machine Do not place anything on the foot control otherwise the machine will run intermittently Controlling the Sewing Speed Foot control Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control The harder you depress the foot control the faster the machine runs The symbol O of a switch indicates the off position of a switch For an appliance with a polarized plug one blade wider than the other To reduce the risk of electrical shock this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way If it does not fit fully in the outlet reverse the plug If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet Do not modify the plug in any way The foot controller Model YC 482J or TJC 150 is used with the sewing machine Model 525S USA market only Reverse Stitch Lever Push the reverse stitch lever down to sew in reverse The machine will sew in reverse while the lever is pushed Foot Pressure Dial Turn the foot pressure dial to adjust the foot pressure The foot pressure dial should be set at 3 for regular sewing Reduce the pressure to 2 for appliqu
19. ary Reduce the needle thread tension slightly to achieve the better result Decorative Stretch Stitches Machine setting Stitch pattern A L Stitch width 3 5 3 Stitch length S S 4 Thread tension 1 4 Presser foot Zigzag foot A Decorative stretch patterns are used for adding a creative and personalized touch to items Carefully guide the fabric while sewing as the fabric moves back and forth l rm o e PAIS DONNVOHOOD BABAAE VAS ABBLBBSAYL BABS ABABA ASA AAAS SAS AF 35 Smocking Machine setting Stitch pattern D Stitch width 3 5 3 Stitch length S S 4 Thread tension 1 4 Presser foot Zigzag foot A Step 1 Choose a soft and lightweight fabric such as batiste gingham or challis Cut the fabric three times wider than the project width Increase the stitch length to 4 and loosen thread tension to 1 Sew rows of straight stitches 3 8 1 cm apart across the area to be smocked 3 8 1 cm Step 2 Knot the threads along one end From the other end pull the bobbin threads to distribute gathers evenly and secure the threads Return the thread tension to the original setting Sew rows of the smocking stitch between the gathering stitches Remove the gathering stitches after finished
20. cutwork draw work and basting Set the setting mark at 1 when sewing chiffon lace organdy and other fine fabrics Setting mark Dropping the Feed Dog The drop feed lever is located underneath the free arm bed on the backside of the machine To drop the feed dog push the lever in the direction of the arrow as illustrated To raise the feed dog push the lever in the direction of the arrow as illustrated and turn the handwheel toward you The feed dog must be up for regular sewing Drop feed lever 2 Raised position 3 Lowered position Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser foot You can raise the foot about 1 4 0 6 cm higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabric under the foot Lowered position 2 Normal up position 3 Extra up position Changing the Presser Foot To remove Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel counterclockwise Raise the presser foot and press the lever on the back of the foot holder Lever CAUTION Turn OFF the power switch before changing the foot Always use the proper foot for the selected pattern The wrong foot can cause the needle to break Do not push the lever down to prevent it from being broken To attach Place the desired presser foot so that the pin on the f
21. decorative topstitch as well Button Sewing Machine setting Stitch pattern C 2 Stitch width Adjust as necessary 3 Stitch length Any 4 Thread tension 3 7 Presser foot Buttonhole foot B Feed dog Lowered Unthread the needle Adjust the stitch width to match it with the span of the holes in the button Turn the handwheel to check if the needle enters into each hole in the button Lower the foot to hold the button in place The holes in the button should align with the slot of the foot A pin can be placed on the foot to form a shank Make sure to check if the needle enters into both holes in the button Pin Re thread the needle and sew about 10 stitches and cut the needle and bobbin threads at the beginning Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric Cut the needle and bobbin threads leaving 8 20 cm tails Bring the needle thread between the button and fabric through the holes in the button Pull the needle thread to pick bobbin thread up to the right side of the fabric Wind the threads to from a shank and tie them together 2 Needle thread 3 Bobbin thread NOTE Raise the feed dog after sewing 23 Automatic Buttonhole Machine setting Stitch pattern BH Stitch width 4 5 3 Stitch length 0 5 1 Thread tension 1 5 5 Presser foot Automatic buttonhole foot
22. dle into the fabric at the starting point Lower the foot Needle thread 6 Bobbin thread Opening Starting point NOTE Make sure there is no gap between the slider and front 2 stopper If there is a gap the length of the right and left rows of the buttonhole will differ Slider Front stopper 4 Difference 2 There should be no gap 5 Sew slowly and stop the machine when a buttonhole m is completed 7 The machine sews the front bartack and left row first _ then the back bartack and right row Raise the foot and remove the fabric Cut both needle and bobbin threads leaving about 4 we 10 cm thread ends Draw the needle thread to wrong side of fabric by pulling the bobbin thread Then knot the threads Insert a pin inside the bartack Then cut the opening with seam ripper op Take care not to cut the stitches 25 To sew another buttonhole turn the stitch selector to RESET then back to Es again as shown Now simply step on the foot control to sew an identical buttonhole When buttonhole sewing is finished push the buttonhole lever up as far as it will go N N Adjusting the buttonhole stitch density Turn the stitch length dial within the range of DLT to adjust the buttonhole stitch density Stitch length dial 26
23. em under the fabric as illustrated for fine or medium fabrics Fold a hem with the wrong side up forming a 1 8 0 5 cm allowance Wrong side of the fabric 2 1 8 0 5 cm 3 Heavy weight fabric 4 Fine and medium weight fabric 2 Place the fabric so that the needle just pierces the folded edge when the needle comes over the extreme left side Lower the presser foot 3 Turn the screw to align the guide on the foot with the folded edge so that the needle just pierces the fold If the needle pierces too far left move the guide slightly to the left If the needle misses the fold move the guide slightly to the right Sew slowly while guiding the folded edge along the guide Screw Guide Folded edge A Open and press the fabric after sewing is finished Right side of the fabric NOTE If the needle drops too far left the stitches will be apparent on the right side of the fabric 33 34 SECTION 5 DECORATIVE STITCHES Decorative Satin Stitches Machine setting Stitch pattern L Stitch width 3 5 3 Stitch length 0 5 1 4 Thread tension 1 4 Presser foot Zigzag foot A or Buttonhole foot B Determine the appropriate stitch density by test sewing For a delicate appearance on fabric such as chiffon use a single layer with a tear away backing if necess
24. en the needle swings to the right allow the needle to just clear the folded edge of the fabric After stitching open the fabric and iron press the tucks flat to one side NOTE Increase the needle thread tension to form prominent tucks 37 0 VAAI NANINI v v I rm o Al 38 Fagoting Machine setting Stitch pattern H 2 Stitch width 3 5 Stitch length 1 3 4 Thread tension 1 4 Presser foot Zigzag foot A Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric to create an open work appearance and add design interest Fold under each fabric edge 1 2 1 3 cm and press Pin the two edges to a piece of paper or tear away backing 1 8 0 3 cm apart Paper Sew slowly guiding the fabric so the needle catches the folded edge on each side Tear away the backing after sewing is finished Patchwork Machine setting Stitch pattern D 2 Stitch width 5 3 Stitch length 1 3 4 Thread tension 1 4 Presser foot Zigzag foot A Place two layers of the fabric with the right side together Seam along the edges with the straight stitch Open fabrics flat and fold each seam allowances Place the fabric under the foot so that the seam line
25. flat surface should be consistent Never use a blunt needle 4 Gap Needle and Thread Chart WEIGHT FABRIC NEEDLE SIZE 9 65 9 65 Blue Tipped Needle 11 75 Universal 11 75 80 TYPE of NEEDLE Very Light Universal Ball Point Chiffon Georgette Fine Lace Organdy Net Tulle Light Batiste Voile Lawn Pure Silk Crepe de Chine Sheer Crepe Chambray Handkerchief Linen Gingham Challis Percale Wool Crepe Peau de 12 Soie Taffeta Satin Silk Surah Satin backed Crepe Qiana Single Knits Jersey Swimwear and Tricot Blue Tipped Needle Ball Point Leather Suede Wedge Point Leather Needle Flannel Velour Velvet Muslin Velveteen Universal Poplin Corduroy Broadcloth Linen Chintz Gabardine Felt Terry Burlap Quilted Fabrics Medium Ball Point Double Knits synthetic and natural Stretch Velour Stretch Terry Sweater Knits Leather Vinyl Suede Wedge Point Leather Needle Denim Sailcloth Ticking Denim Needle Double Faced Wool Heavy Coating Fake Fur Universal Drapery Fabrics Leather Suede Wedge Point Leather Needle Very Heavy Canvas Duck Upholstery Fabrics Universal Topstitching for Special Finishes Topstitching Needle Winding the Bobbin Setting the spool Place a spool of thread on the spool pin with the thread coming off the spool as illu
26. h needle in the fabric and raise the foot then unzip a few inches to clear a path for stitching Slider 2 5 cm Remove fabric and close zipper Take the upper fabric layer and lay it flat over the zipper Baste the zipper tape to the upper fabric layer Basting 2 Zipper tape 32 Sz Raise and release the foot and re attach it with the left side pin Starting just below zipper bottom stop sew across fabric to about 3 8 1 cm distance from the basting line Turn fabric 90 degrees and sew a seam the entire length of the zipper tape Before reaching the slider stop the machine with needle in fabric and raise the foot Use seam ripper to open a few inches of basting stitch 43 Unstitch basting 3 8 1 cm 6 Unzip a few inches to clear a path for stitching At end of seam sew a few stitches in reverse to lock Once both sides of zipper are sewn use the seam ripper to open the basting stitch D N Blind Hemming Machine setting Stitch pattern E or F Stitch width 2 3 3 Stitch length 2 3 4 Thread tension 1 4 Presser foot Blind hemming foot G On heavy weight fabrics that ravel the raw edge should be overcast first Fold the h
27. he needle thread tension is too tight Page 17 2 The needle thread is not threaded properly Page 11 3 The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn Page 8 4 The stitch length is too long for the fabric Make stitch shorter Use a stabilizer for very fine fabrics The cloth is not fed 1 The feed dog is packed with lint Page 40 smoothly 2 The stitches are too fine Make stitch longer 3 The feed dog was not raised after being lowered Page 6 4 The foot pressure is not adjusted properly Page 6 The machine does not 1 The machine is not plugged in Page 5 work 2 Thread is caught in the hook race Page 40 3 The handwheel is pulled for bobbin winding Page 10 Patterns are distorted 1 The stitch is not balanced Page 16 The buttonhole is not 1 The stitch density is not suitable for the fabric being sewn well sewn Page 26 2 Interfacing is not being used with stretch fabrics Page 24 Noisy operation 1 The feed dog is packed with lint Page 40 2 Lint has collected in the bobbin holder Page 40 Layer slippage 1 The foot pressure is not adjusted properly Page 6 42 507 800 037 E Printed in Taiwan
28. in Thread N w Raise the presser foot and hold the needle thread lightly with your left hand Needle thread Turn the handwheel slowly toward you one complete turn Bring the bobbin thread up by pulling the needle thread as illustrated Needle thread 2 Bobbin thread Pull 4 10 cm of both threads back and under the presser foot NAAT NINING ja esto cl N A Selecting the Stitch Pattern Raise the needle to its highest position Pattern selector dial Turn the pattern selector dial to set the symbol of the desired stitch pattern at the setting mark Pattern selector dial Setting mark A CAUTION Do not turn the pattern selector dial while the needle is in the fabric otherwise the needle may bend or break To select the stretch stitch patterns set the stitch length dial at S S 3 Stretch stitch patterns Stitch Length Dial Turn the stitch length dial to set the desired stitch length number at the setting mark The higher the number the longer the stitch The mark shows the adjustment range when sewing the buttonhole 4 Setting mark Stitch length dial VMW lt 09 4 O J Adjusting stretch stitch balance If the stretch stitch patterns are uneven when you sew on a particular fabric
29. matches the center of the foot width Lower the foot and sew the pattern along the seam line Right side of the fabric Appliqu e Machine setting Stitch pattern C Stitch width 3 5 3 Stitch length 0 5 1 4 Thread tension 1 4 5 Presser foot Buttonhole foot B Foot pressure 2 Baste appliqu pieces on the fabric or fuse the appliqu pieces with an iron on fabric joiner Stitch around the appliqu making sure the needle at the right swing falls along the outer edge of the appliqu Turning the corner Stop the machine and lower the needle into the fabric at the outer edge of the appliqu Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric into the new direction NOTE Return the foot pressure dial to 3 after finishing 39 SECTION 6 CARE AND MAINTENANCE N WARNING Turn the power switch off and unplug the machine before cleaning NOTE Do not dismantle the machine in any way other than what is explained in this section Clean the outside of the machine with a soft cloth and mild soap Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogs 1 Remove the presser foot and needle Remove screw on the needle plate with the screwdriver Remove the needle plate and take out the bobbin Screw 2 Lift up the bobbin holder and remove it
30. oot lies just under the groove on the foot holder Lower the presser foot lifter to lock the foot in place 2 Groove 3 Pin Removing and Attaching the Foot Holder N WARNING Turn OFF the power switch before detaching or attaching the foot holder To remove Remove the setscrew by turning it counterclockwise with a screwdriver and remove the foot holder To attach Match the hole in the foot holder with the threaded hole in the presser bar Fit the setscrew into the hole Tighten the screw by turning it clockwise with a screwdriver Setscrew 2 Foot holder 3 Hole 4 Threaded hole Changing Needles N CAUTION Always make sure to turn the power switch off and disconnect the machine from power supply before changing the needle Raise the needle by turning the handwheel and lower the presser foot Turn off the power switch Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it counterclockwise Remove the needle from the clamp Needle clamp screw 2 Insert a new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side of the needle to the rear When inserting the needle into the needle clamp push it up against the stopper pin and tighten the needle clamp screw firmly 2 Stopper pin 3 Flat side To check needle straightness place the flat side of the needle onto something flat a needle plate glass etc The gap between the needle and the
31. oot B If the diameter of the button is more than 1 2 5 cm a buttonhole must be made manually as follows Replace the foot with the buttonhole foot B Pull the buttonhole lever down as far as it will go Draw both needle and bobbin thread to the left Lower the needle into the fabric at the starting point and lower the foot Needle thread 2 Bobbin thread 3 Starting point N Sew the front bartack and left row to the desired length then stop the machine w Click the buttonhole lever toward you A 28 ol Restart the machine to sew the back bartack and right row and then stop the machine at the starting point a When buttonhole sewing is finished push the buttonhole lever up as far as it will go 29 0 d 6 o4 5 3 X a N Q 1 ie J 30 Zipper Application Machine setting Stitch pattern A 2 Stitch width 5 Stitch length 1 5 4 4 Thread tension 3 6 Presser foot Zipper foot E Attaching the zipper foot A To sew the left side of the zipper attach zipper foot with the right side pin B To sew the right side of zipper attach the zipper foot with the left side pin Groove
32. ree end of the thread held in your hand depress the foot control Stop the machine when the bobbin has been wound a few layers and cut the thread close to the bobbin Depress the foot control again When the bobbin is fully wound it will stop automatically Return the bobbin winder to its original position by moving the spindle to the left and cut the thread as illustrated Push in the handwheel to engage the clutch Inserting the bobbin N w A Place the bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread running off as illustrated Thread Guide the thread into the front notch on the front side of the bobbin holder Draw the thread to the left sliding it between the tension spring blades 2 Front notch 3 Tension spring blade Continue to draw the thread lightly until the thread slips into the side notch 4 Side notch Pull out about 4 10 cm of thread Attach the hook cover plate Check the threading by referring to the chart shown on the hook cover plate Thread 6 Hook cover plate Threading the Machine To set the needle thread Raise the thread take up lever to the highest position by turning the handwheel Raise the presser foot
33. strated A Press the large spool holder firmly against the spool of thread Large spool holder B For a small spool use the small spool holder 2 Small spool holder Additional spool pin The additional spool pin is for bobbin winding without unthreading the machine Insert the additional spool pin into the hole Place the felt and a spool on the pin 3 Additional spool pin 4 Spool pin felt Spool pin hole Removing the bobbin Push the hook cover plate release button to the right and remove the cover plate Hook cover plate release button 2 Hook cover plate N Lift out the bobbin Bobbin Winding the bobbin 4 Pull out the handwheel to disengage the clutch Handwheel Draw the thread from the spool Guide the thread around the bobbin winder thread guide 2 Bobbin winder thread guide Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to the outside Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle with the free end of the thread coming out at the top 3 Bobbin winder spindle Push the bobbin to the right NOTE Do not move the bobbin winder spindle while the machine is running With the f
34. titch length 0 5 3 4 Thread tension 2 5 Presser foot Zigzag foot A Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for overcasting sewing on buttons etc Adjust the stitch length to suit your sewing needs NOTE Use a stabilizer for stretch fabrics such as tricot and knits to prevent puckering Overcasting Machine setting Stitch pattern C 2 Stitch width 5 Stitch length 1 2 4 Thread tension 3 7 Presser foot Overedge foot C Overcasting is used to prevent fabrics from raveling at raw edges It can be used to finish a hem edge Place the edge of the fabric next to the guide of foot and sew while guiding the fabric edge along the guide Guide N CAUTION Do not set the stitch width less than 5 when using the overedge foot C otherwise the needle may hit the foot causing the needle to bend or break 20 VAAI TATATA vvv Knit Stitch Machine setting Stitch pattern G Stitch width 5 Stitch length S S 4 Thread tension 3 7 Presser foot Overedge foot C This stitch is ideal for finishing edges of stretch fabrics It seams and finishes the fabric edges simultaneously Place the edge of the fabric next to the guide of foot and sew while guiding the fabric edge along the guide
Download Pdf Manuals
Related Search