Home

16H FDL Manual BOOK

1. shaped hexagon rods You ll need these later in assembly Finally the black knobs serve to connect the support arms to the folding legs in both the folded and the weaving position Now you know all that you need to know about hardware to set up and maintain your loom 1 Ifaboltis a little tight going in the hole give ita light friendly tap with a hammer 2 Tostartthe threads on a nut in a nut access hole it is often helpful to hold the nut in place with the end of a screw driver or the tip of your finger 3 Always have the large nut access hole see Figure 3 facing toward the inside ofthe loom unless otherwise specified 4 Remember to put washers under the heads of hex bolts and exposed nuts nuts that are not in access holes to prevent damage to the wood The side frames are the parts that came in the biggest box They are shipped with the insides facing each other just as they will be when the loom is set up To determine which is the right side and the left first orient them as they are oriented in Figure 1 i e with the castle side in a vertical position Now look at the topmost horizontal piece There is a tool holder made of imported exotic wood mounted on the inside front section of the right side frame Page A 5 JOINING SIDE FRAMES The easiest way to accomplish the first stages of assembly is with the side frames on their backs so that the castle sides are horizontal to the floor and the left and
2. 24 24 27 28 28 28 30 32 33 36 38 38 39 44 44 44 W 1 W 1 W 1 W 1 W 2 W 2 W 2 W 2 W 2 W 2 W 3 W 4 W 5 W 6 TABLE OF CONTENTS Remove the Raddle W 6 Two Beams W 6 When do You need to Tension Your Warps Separately W 8 Setting Two Beams W 8 Warping the Sectional Beam W 9 More than Two Warps Separate Tensioning W 9 Warping the Sectional Beam W 9 Sectional Beam Calculation W 9 Size ofthe Section W 9 Extension Cords 11 Feeding the Spool Rack W 11 Adjusting the Tension Device W 11 Setting a Tracking System 11 W 12 Tension Box Heddle Instruction W 12 Threading the Tension Box W 13 Winding the Warp W 14 Adjusting the Size ofthe Section W 15 Counting Turns or Yardage W 16 Creating the Cross W 17 Sticks in the Treading Cross W 17 Routing the Warp W 17 Combining Sectional and Plain Warping W 17 Threading Sleying and Tying On W 18 Preparation for Threading W 18 Threading the Harnesses W 19 Unused Heddles W 20 Sleying the Reed W 20 Tying on to the Apron W 20 Wrapping the Warp around the Sandpaper Cloth Beam W 21 Tying on to an Old Warp W 22 Setting the Tension Device W 24 Tension Device W 24 Adjusting the Tension W 25 Revering the Warp W 25 Pegging the Dobby Unit W 26 Dobby System W 26 Creating a Tabby Chain W 26 Feeding the Dobby Unit W 26 Creating Chains with More Complex Structures W 28 Long Dobby Chains W 33 Handling Your Do
3. Ifthe tension isn t loosened the small spring may become stretched out of shape If this happens warp tension problems will result After winding the warp back onto the warp beam check to make sure the cord has not become crossed on the drum Wind the warp forward again with the front ratchet handle until the warp tightens and is in the correct position Page W 25 PEGGING THE DOBBY UNIT Dobby System Creating a Tabby Chain Feeding the Dobby Unit Page W 26 The dobby loom provides the means for quickly and easily raising any number of harnesses in any combination by the alternate use of only two treadles This is accomplished by the use of a chain of wooden bars which are placed in the dobby mechanism or head in which metal pegs can be easily inserted Each wooden bar has a row of sixteen or twenty four holes init The first hole on the left corresponds to the first harness the second hole to the second harness and so on Each wooden dobby bar controls one shed and when a peg is inserted into a hole in a bar it causes the corre sponding harness to raise when that bar comes around into position by pressing on the treadles The first pattern you can always choose to peg up on the dobby bars is a tabby weave Tabby weave can always be used for the first inch of each new warp as a heading and to check for threading or sleying errors Create one chain of eight dobby bars and lay it flat on a table with the wider side with
4. THE BLANK use blank bars between the tabby part of the BAR THE PATTERN WILL chain and the pattern part BE WOVEN EXACTLY LIKE THE ONE REPRESENTED IN DIAGRAM F 6 PES PLAN USINS REVERSING TECHNIQUE TIE UP AND TREADLING PLAN 6 FIGURE 42 Page W 32 Long Dobby Chains Handling Your Dobby Chains PEGGING THE DOBBY UNIT e When using two shuttle weaves where there is a tabby shed in between each pattern shed the tabby sheds are often not included on conventional treadle plans Don t forget that on the peg plan for such a weave a tabby shed must be filled in between every pattern shed Remember that with a dobby loom the number of combinations of raised harnesses is limited only by how many dobby bars you wish to use On treadle type looms the number of combinations available is limited by how many treadles the loom has As you gain more experi ence working with peg plans try designing right on the peg plan itself adding raised harnesses wherever it suits the needs of your design Now peg your pattern up on the dobby bars The number of bars needed is determined by the number of rows in your peg plan Before starting to put pegs in the bars it is a good idea to mark the left end of the top bar with an X since it will be placed toward the front of the loom when placed in the dobby unit Otherwise it is easy to get the chain turned around which would make your weaving pattern turn out all wrong Keep this pegged
5. Attaching Hooks and Chains Turn your foot lever release so that the longer end is toward the rear of the loom Notice that there are two S hooks attached to the rearmost hole Take the largest of these two S hooks and attach it to the empty loop ofthe tension cable Now attach the smaller S hook to the top of the spring belonging to the tension adjustment cord assembly Look down at the foot lever and notice the chain that is attached to the eyebolt This can now be attached to the forward most S hook on the foot lever release The ideal position for the front point of the foot lever is about four inches from the floor Use the links of the chain to adjust the height of the foot lever To set the tension on the locking brake simply pull the two ends of the tension adjustment cord in opposite directions Tighten the warp using the cloth beam handle located at the right end of the cloth beam To advance the warp simple depress the foot lever turn the cloth beam handle and release the foot lever LEFT SIDE OF LOOM AS SEEM FROM INSIDE LOWER BEAM LOCKING BRAKE ASSEMBLY FIGURE 46 Page W 45 LOCKING BRAKE SYSTEM RIGHT SIDE OF LOOM AS SEEN FROM INSIDE UPPER BEAM LOCKING BRAKE ASSEMBLY FIGURE 47 Page W 46 ONLLOOHSW Id YOLL INV JAONVNUWELNIVIA INOO I LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING LOOM 1 Tightening the Bolts MAINTENANCE The single most important thing you can do to extend the li
6. Identify each of these parts and assemblies prior to assembly see Upper Beam Locking Brake Assembly drawing The locking brake can be attached to either or both warp beams If it will be attached to the beam in the top position your locking brake will be located on the right If you will be attaching it to the beam in the bottom position the locking brake system will be located on the left They cannot be interchanged due to the difference in cable length In the instructions that follow the left and right systems are separated only when there are differences in the assembly Page W 43 LOCKING BRAKE SYSTEM Assembly Foot Lever Assembly Page W 44 Tension Cable Part 1 Disconnect your present tension cord Unwrap it from around the warp beam drum A Right Side Assemblies Take out the pivotal bolt that joins the right folding leg to the lower horizontal Left Side Assemblies Take out the pivotal bolt that joins the left folding leg to the lower horizontal Remove the nut and one washer from the new hex bolt Starting from the outside ofthe folding leg insert this bolt into and through the folding leg and lower horizontal Now slide the wooden spacer over the bolt Locate the tension adjustment cord assembly Slip the loop of cords over the wooden spacer Now locate the metal bearing and slip this over the bolt next to the spacer Locate the wooden foot lever assem bly Slip the hole that s located at the
7. A Shuttle flying off 1 Shuttle boxes are a Single Box Flyshuttle Bridge the the track out of adjustment Shuttle Race and Shuttle Box with a ruler or other straight edge They should be in perfect alignment If one is lower than the other loosen the Shuttle Box and reposition it If you need help go to the installation instructions in your manul b Double or Four Box Flyshuttle In the same way check the position of each of your shelves relative to the race If you have a problem make the necessary adjustment at the turnbuckle in the cable that attaches to the shift handle bring the shelves up or down You may need to loosen the brass screws motion limiters top and bottom of the box carriages in order to create enough room to make this adjustment Be sure to retighten them once you ve corrected the elevation problem 2 Your shuttle is Insert small shims in the grooves that hitting the end of the hold the reed into the race and beater reed top so that the end of the reed is deflected backwards 3 Tensioner in your The advantage of an end feed shuttle is shuttle is not adjusted that it allows you to tension the feed of your yarn Most shuttles of this design have adjustable tensioners Be sure yours is set to match the characteristics of the yarn used 4 Bobbins not wound If it s soft on the end and the wraps consistently collapse and pull into one another you will have to wind it again Use an AVL Bo
8. For a very light beat it will be placed in its frontmost position Place the beater in one of the three positions before adjusting for height as above The springs ofthe spring lever return system should also be adjusted for positive harness return i e the harnesses stay all the way down in the depressed position and require the least amount of effort for lifting This will vary according to the weight of the warp In general lightweight less dense looser tensioned warps with a smaller weaving width will need very little spring tension to assure positive harness return Heavier denser tighter tensioned and wider warps will need more spring tension To tell if the harnesses are returning all the way open several sheds by working the treadles Watch the unlifted harnesses and if the tops of their heddles become loose and tend to move around then spring tension should be increased but just enough to get the harnesses to stay down and no more or your treadling effort will be made greater than it has to be Not all harnesses will need the same adjustment It will depend on the distribution of your warp on particular harnesses LOCKING BRAKE SYSTEM Optional Equipment Upper and Lower Beam Locking Brakes LOCKING BRAKE SYSTEM To adjust the spring tension simply unhook the spring and then re hook it one chain link shorter see the assembly section This tightens the spring and makes it pull down harder on that particular harnes
9. For large yarns loosen the screws so that the metal plates loosen up Throw a few weft shots with the shuttle and then check your selvages If the selvages are too loose increase the tension If the tension is too great and the selvages are drawing in reduce the tension It may take a little experimenting to get it just the way you want it If you have an AVL shuttle with two tension springs and plates to hold the yarn to thread it simply pull the filling thread off the end ofthe bobbin Use a small hook perhaps a crochet hook or make one from a paper clip to get the thread in between the plates and through the side hole The tension adjustment is just the same as in the shuttles with a standard tensioner The only difference is that instead of the screwdriver you will be using an allen wrench for the adjustment This kind of shuttle with the spring tensioning system is especially useful for novelty yarns where diam eters ofthe yarn changes across the yarn and therefore more flexibility is needed To change the reed on the flyshuttle beater remove the beater top and then remove the seven bolts from the reed support That will loosen up the reed support and allow you to remove the reed Now it s just a matter of revers ing your steps for installing the new reed On a flyshuttle beater it is essential that the reed stays in perfect alignment with the shuttle race or else you ll have flyshuttles flying across the room The AVL loom
10. by removing the top section ofthe left or right cloth beam vertical known as the vertical cap If your loom will be equipped with an automatic cloth advance system you will find it more convenient to use the cap on the right side for beam removal Using a crescent wrench or 1 2 socket turn the upper bolt counter clockwise until the nut disengages it Now lift up on the vertical cap separating it from the lower portion ofthe cloth beam vertical Page A 24 INSTALLING BEAMS AND ROLLERS To install the cloth beam which by the way will be taken out again prior to threading simply orient the beam so that the silver metal ratchet is to the right Locate the aluminum cloth beam handle 25 see Figures 1 and 13 Slip the handle over the right end of the cloth beam axle with the flat face of the handle away from the beam and ratchet Now slip the large hole in the vertical cap over the left end of the beam axle Insert one end ofthe beam into the corresponding hole in the right or left cloth beam vertical cap and seat the unattached vertical cap onto its previous position Secure the vertical cap with its hex bolt and square nut This procedure takes only a very few minutes once you re accustomed to it and if done prior to threading contributes to the comfort and enjoyment ofthe weaver while threading A set of Cloth Beam End Caps have been included with your loom These consist of a pair of dark wooden disks with mounting screws These ca
11. has loosened doesn t matter how tightly you ve adjusted the cord you just can t get enough tension 2 You have mis routed your brake cable If you have just installed the system disconnected your Brake Cable to move the loom or warp the beam you may very well have incorrectly replaced it 3 You may have warped your beam backwards Go to your manual and consult that figure in the Weaving Section which illustrates how your warp should be routed 4 The sandpaper on your Cloth Beam is not grabbing the warp and pulling it around as it should 5 The surface of the Brake Drum has become polished and no longer offers sufficient friction to grab and hold the Brake Cable B Extensive tension on 1 Tension Adjusting warp cord is too tight 2 The tension cable has gotten crossed over itself on the warp beam brake drum Page W 52 Re adjust the tie up and eithertie a bow in the cord ends or bind it tightly with a double wrap of cord Review the cable routing as shown in the appropriate figure in the Assembly Section of your manual Be careful though there are different illustrations depending on whether your beam is in the upper or lower position If you did warp your beam backwards you will need to reverse your tension cable Unhook the buckle loosen the cable and wind it in the opposite direction This is not a permanent fix Use it only to weave off the warp you wound backwards
12. installing your Cloth Storage Drum Begin at the place where you are instructed to Route the Cloth Storage Cord Lock the weight up Go to the Cloth Storage Drum at the back of the loom pull the pin and turn the drum clockwise If it seems not to offer any resistance remove the drum and examine the spring spring has hooks on both ends If the spring is hooked over the pin inside the drum and has a corresponding hook at its other end replace the drum taking great care to engage the free hook on the pin in the side frame If either hook is missing the spring needs to be replaced LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING TABLE 3 CLOTH STORAGE cont d 4 The Clutch Bearing in You need to replace the Cloth Storage the center of the Cloth Ratchet Assembly and Clutch Bearing Storage Drum is Call AVL to order parts malfunctioning To determine if this is the problem with the pull pin in place try turning the Cloth Storage Drum lightly clockwise You should not be able to move it without moving the cloth storage beam Page W 55 LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING 4 AShed AVLs are designed with a shed which exactly meets the need not too wide not too narrow And there s of course a reason for this precision Raising harnesses higher than you need may give you a larger shed but it s also a waste of time and effort You only need enough warp separation for the shuttle to pass freely However because the
13. the front ofthe loom followed by twos threes and finally the fours closest to the back of the loom Now it s time to hook the springs to the spring levers Locate your springs with chain attached Starting with the rear most spring lever attach the spring to the lever on one side and the chain to the lever on the other side It doesn t matter which side the spring is on The chain is for adjusting the harness tension so for right now just attach the last link to the lever and you can adjust it if need be after you get your first warp on Make sure that the wire levers are free to pivot on the metal pins in the spring levers otherwise they may get bent and won t work properly Now that you have assembled and hung all of your harness sticks you can hook them up to the Spring Lever Chain Near the outside end of each spring lever is a chain Take the end link of your last spring lever on the left side and hook it to the left eyelet on the underside of the last harness stick Repeat for the right side Now hook up all of the harnesses in the same fashion Your Dobby Head has been thoroughly tested at the AVL factory At that time all ofthe cables were in their proper positions for use Frequently during shipping however the cables get jostled out of position and must be straightened out Now s the time to do that If you look up at your Dobby from underneath you will notice that there are sixteen vertical fingers each with a slot in it T
14. Check Symptom A in Table 3 Cloth Storage System If the warp still won t adhere to the Cloth Beam you ll very likely need to add SoftGrip or another kind of beam cover in order to get satisfactory warp tension Disconnect and unwind the Brake Cable Lightly sand the surface of the groove in the Brake Drum with your 220 sandpaper Replace the cable but be sure about its routing Press on plastic clamp to let some cord out Straighten out the cord LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING TABLE 2 TENSION cont d C Your warp tension 1 It is not indicative of is different in different a tensioning problem It places over the width is a matter of not having of the warp maintained even tension when warping the beam and there s no redress from the Tension Arm It s just too late for this warp to be well tensioned You should have used a Tension Box for sectional warping or craft paper for plain beam warping If you do not want to waste this warp place something folded paper or cloth in the areas on the beam where your tension is looser You will have to move your paper everytime you advance the warp and also keep adding more since it will probably become looser and looser Page W 53 LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING 3 Cloth Storage System There are two kinds of Cloth Storage Systems used on AVLs one is used on our larger Production Looms the other on our Folding Looms They are similar in
15. The lower beam s anchor bracket is mounted above instead of below the Beam see Figure 16 beam as is the upper beam The tie up is done in the same fashion The large spring is hooked over the front post of the anchor bracket and the small spring to the rear post Remember to wind the wraps of the cord with no cross overs ADJUSTIM6 CORD X amp ADDLE WITH PLASTIC V ELAM d LOOSE TENSION STEEL MOUNTING SCREW RINS LOWER SPRING UPPER BEAM TENSION SYSTEM FIGURE 15 Page A 28 TENSIONING THE BEAMS STEEL RING LOWER SPRING ADJUSTABE CORD WITH PLASTIC CLAMP LOWER BEAM TENSION SYSTEM FIGURE 16 Page A 29 BEATER ASSEMBLIES The Beater supports can now be bolted to the loom First locate your beater supports 34 There s one for each side of the loom so we ll start on the right side and you can refer to Figure 1 for correct placement Orient one of the beater supports so that the round spacers and metal pins are facing toward the loom and the spacer with the threaded rod and metal bracket 15 toward the front of the loom see Figures 17 and 18 STANDARD BEATER SUPPORT FIGURE 17 Page A 30 BEATER ASSEMBLIES SINGLE BOX FLYSHUTTLE BEATER FIGURE 18 Page A 31 BEATER ASSEMBLIES Standard Beater Page A 32 Remove the lock nut and washer from the rear spacer and insert the bolt through the right lower horizontal side frame member Slip the washer and nut back on and tighten it just e
16. UPPER BOX BACKPLATE ASSEMBLY LEFT 5 sHowm FIGURE 23 Page A 42 BEATER ASSEMBLIES Once you have both sides attached they are adjusted as follows with the Shift Handle shifted to its rightmost adjust the left Drop Box turnbuckle so that the box is against its top stop and the spring at the turnbuckle is slightly extended Shift the handle to the left and adjust the right turnbuckle in the same manner Attention When shifting the leading end of the handle must be slightly raised first If the trailing end of the handle is lifted first the handle will lock up and not shift Also you want to make sure that the turnbuckles are not ad justed so tightly as to not allow the boxes to drop to their full down position Once properly adjusted tighten the locknut of each turn buckle to keep them from moving That completes the assembly of your double box flyshuttle beater Check your assembly with Figure 21 to be certain you ve gotten everything correct Page A 43 RADDLE TENSION BOX RADDLE Optional Equipment TENSION BOX Optional Equipment Page A 44 The Raddle 41 is inserted into the holes in the back edge ofthe folding legs Refer back to Figure 15 for relative position These holes are used to mount the raddle for warping both the standard beam and the second beam Be certain that the removable portion of the raddle is to the top Once mounted into the holes the raddle is not only held firmly in place but
17. around the brass pin This procedure should automatically center the handle on the tie up Now you are going to have to tie an overhead knot in the cord be tween the two Upper Pulleys see Figure 22 To do this make a small mark on the cord where the cord goes between the two pulleys and pull it straight down a few inches to where you can tie a simple overhead knot with the handle already in place Once the knot is tied release the cord and let it return to its resting position If the knot was placed correctly the pickers should still return to the end of the picker rod at each end of the beater and the cord should stop before the knot stops the cords from moving any farther BEATER ASSEMBLIES FRONT VIEW FROMT HARMESS PULLEY SUPPORT e e p MOUNTING SCREWS UPPER PULLEY SMALL EDGE ASSEMBLY TOWARD FRONT _ FLYSTRING CORDS TO HANDLE UPPER PULLEY ASSEMBLY seen from front of loom FIGURE 22 next step is to adjust the movement of the shuttle drop boxes themselves You will notice that the boxes slide up and down on a metal rod which is fixed at both ends to cast metal pieces In each of these cast metal pieces you will find a brass adjustment screw with a locknut see Figure 23 These brass screws provide a stop for the boxes at their upper and lower extremes of movement Adjust the top screw so that when the boxes are all the way up the lower box is in precise vertical align
18. bar the holes in the strip are aligned with the holes in the dobby bar Use the guide to punch holes in the other strips corresponding to the way the dobby bars are pegged Use them to quickly and easily re peg the dobby bars The AVL loom s shuttles use stationary open end bobbins The advantage of using this type of bobbin over the conventional spinning bobbin is that as soon as the shuttle is caught thread stops coming off the bobbin whereas the spinning bobbin tends to keep spinning and unwinding thread even after the shuttle is caught The stationary bobbin allows the weaver to more easily obtain a clean selvage edge Stationary bobbins are wound quite differently than spinning bobbins They are not wound back and forth from one end of the bobbin to the other so please practice the following technique until you feel comfortable with it FIRST LAYER OF THREAD THIRD LAYER FULL BOBBIN WINDING THE BOBBIN FIGURE 43 Using the AVL Bobbin Winding Guide WEAVING PROCEDURES Use a standard size bobbin winder A hand winder will work but an electric one is better and some sort of tensioning device is ideal since the thread should be wound very tightly wearing a heavy leather or fabric work glove will help you to pull the thread tighter If you are right handed hold the tensioning device with the right hand for easy positioning of the thread onto the bobbin and with your left hand have a glove on hold the thread for te
19. both the left and right support arms Notice that on the inside surface of each castle side about halfway up is a large counter bored hole Using a hammer and the head of a bolt tap the washer into this hole until it hits bottom Now keeping the spacers between the castle sides and the support arms mount each to the outside of its respective castle Secure with the nuts making sure to leave them loose enough to be able to pivot Locate the Folding Legs These are long pieces each with an aluminum tension plate attached to the inside The right side has a tension plate mounted about 1 3 ofthe way down from the top while the left side has a tension plate mounted about 4 from the top Locate the four black knobs from your hardware package Insert these loosely into the threaded brass inserts located on the outside face of each of the folding legs Lay the left folding leg down on the floor to the outside of the loom so that the tension plate is to the inside Insert a 3 8 x 3 1 2 hex bolt and washer through the hole at the rounded end of the leg and on through the rearmost hole in the loom foot see Figure 3 Secure the bolt with a washer and hex nut and repeat for the right side making sure that the tension plate is facing the inside These nuts are actually lock nuts and will be a bit difficult to turn Tighten them just enough to allow some movement between parts JOINING SIDE FRAMES PIVOT BOLT UNFOLDING THE LOOM FIG
20. cables Untape the bundle of harness sticks labeled Tops Lay one of these on the table about a foot and a half in from the edge with the eyelets away from you Now locate the bag of heddles Open it and look at your heddles but don t I repeat DON T remove the twist ties yet Now locate your harness wires Those are the long wires with copper stops near one end Pick up a bundle of heddles there are approximately 100 Heddles in each bundle and hold them up by one end allowing the other end to hang freely Notice that there are four twist ties two above the eye of the heddle and two below the eye Now with the thumb and index finger of your right hand take hold of the upper right twist tie Grasp the upper left twist tie likewise with your left hand Gently pull apart and notice that all ofthe strings are captivated in either the right or the left twist tie If you had four hands you could grasp the bottom two twist ties in the same manner Then you would realize that there is indeed some order and reason to this twist tie business Into the space that is created by pulling apart the twist ties you will later insert a harness Now that you understand twist ties you can see that if they were to be removed at this point you would experience chaos With one group of heddles in hand return to the table with the harness stick laying on it Now insert the harness stick into the space that was created by pulling apart the twist ties At
21. centering it Remember the right means the right side ofthe loom as you are seeing it from the weaving position at the loom bench This will ensure even selvedges Feeding the Raddle To feed the raddle distribute yarns through the raddle by dropping each raddle cross group into a dent in the raddle RADDLE TOP USED AS THREAD SUPPORT UM ld jim 4 t M E NN AA nt NA GROUP LEASE STICKS IN RADDLE CROSS THREADING THE RADDLE FIGURE 26 If you are using an AVL raddle with a sliding cover slide it on after the raddle is threaded and secure it with two or three cord ties so it can t come off Remove the raddle cross sticks when this is completed Page W 3 WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM Preparing the Paper Prepare the paper for winding between the warp layers Again for the most professional results and fewer tension problems we suggest that the warp be as smooth tight and compact as possible This would mean not using corrugated paper or sticks as they will make the warp too fate and or lumpy Corrugated paper is just too soft and the warp can never be wound tight enough with it Heavy wrapping paper works well seventy pound craft paper is good If you are going to be using smooth slippery warp yarns like fine linens or perle cottons the edge yarns are going to need extra help in order not to slip off themselves To do this cut your paper four inches wider than the warp width and
22. cloth storage drum Push the roller toward the cloth storage drum until the roller seats itself against the drum Slip the other end of the roller into its bracket on the left folding leg NOTE Refer to Figure 12 for the next four steps Install the Standard Plain Warp Beam with the large wooden tension drum on the same side as the tension cord anchor bracket this would be to your left as you face the back of the loom in the two slots at the top of the folding legs Make sure that the small spacers are in place on each end of the beam with the shorter ofthe two on your left To install the beam you will have to temporarily remove the steel retention pins Make sure to replace them after the beam is in place On the rear most edge of the folding legs can be found two aluminum retention brackets secured with two small black knobs The knobs can now be loosened and the brackets slid off to the side Seat the second Warp Beam axle with the large wooden tension drum to your right as you face the back of the loom into the open slots making certain that the spacer is in place on the axle on each end of the beam and pivot the brackets so that they are in contact with the black knobs and are in a vertical position Tighten them down securely The sectional beam can be mounted in either the standard or the second beam position However we recommend that it be mounted in the lower position to keep the loom from becoming top heavy If a second sec
23. holes facing up Use plastic strips with holes to connect the dobby bars into chains Make your plastic strip one hole longer than the size of your chain You will notice you have two sizes of pegs long and short Use short pegs only in holes where harnesses should not be raised but where pegging is necessary to attach dobby bar to plastic strip In the first bar start at the top of the chain and work downward place pegs in holes 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 and 15 using the special wrench provided Then holding the wrench handle screw the peg clockwise into its hole firmly but not too tightly use the wrench again when removing pegs Use the short peg in hole 16 In the second bar place pegs in holes 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 and 16 In hole 1 use short peg Continue repeating these two sequences until all the bars are pegged Now place the pegged up chain in the dobby unit Note that in the dobby unit are two rollers a large grooved upper roller and a smaller lower roller with a metal rod Next find the forward reverse cord It is on the side of the box facing the front of the loom see Figure 38 There is a wooden pull hanging from the end ofthe cord Pull this gently until the knot on the rope is caught on the outside of the wooden stop bracket The large grooved roller will now turn in a counterclockwise direction assuming you are at the front of the loom Take your tabby chain and place the top few bars in the grooves in the uppe
24. s flyshuttle beater is designed to increase weaving speed It has a light and easy action and little physical exertion is needed to operate it Weaving can be done for hours without tiring the weaver With a properly wound bobbin and a little practice of the throwing technique selvage edges turn out smooth and even Page W 37 WEAVING PROCEDURES Throwing the Flyshuttle Page W 38 It s going to take a little practice to learn to throw the flyshuttle In the beginning you should only be concerned with learning the technique described below Practice each step slowly and carefully This will form good habits which will become automatic and it is after that that the speed will come You should practice at first with an empty bobbin and then with weft thread when it starts to go a little smoother e Push the beater away from you to its rearmost position place the shuttle on the shuttle race and slide it into one of the shuttle boxes so that it pushes the picker as far as it will go to the end of the box The hole in the side of the shuttle through which the weft thread passes should generally be facing the weaver e Place one hand right hand if your are right handed left if you are left handed on the flyshuttle handle and the other hand in the center of the beater and open the shed To send the shuttle along the shuttle race and into the opposite box with the single box flybeater make a short quick wrist movement with the
25. shed on AVLs is so precisely calibrated you do need to be sure that you re getting all that the loom can deliver There are three likely causes for restricted sheds TABLE 4 A SHED A Restricted Sheds 1 Shuttle Race is too If the race is too high you ll need to high or low lower it If you see a gap between the bottom of the warp and the top of the When your beater is race bring it up pushed all the way away from you your warp On the overhead beaters there is an threads should just be adjustment screw at the top of the gently touching the beater hanging arm race On the bottom swing beater there is a same kind of adjustment screw but at the bottom of the beater 2 Treadle cables fell Replace the treadle cables so they go off the pulleys over the pulleys 3 Dobby Cable You ll need a helper to check this Have Turnbuckle is out of him watch the travel of the Dobby Arm adjustment in the slot on the right side of the Dobby while you treadle the loom Do not have any harnesses engaging The arm should travel all the way to the top of the slot and to the bottom If it does not go all the way to the bottom check if the dobby arm stop is not blocking the movement If there is a pin in that place pull it out If it is not you ll need to tighten orloosen the tumbuckle at the side of the loom Page W 56 LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING S Beaters and Flyshuttles TABLE 5 BEATERS AND FLYSHUTTLES
26. sure you put in two crosses the threading cross the raddle cross WARPING ON WARPING BOARD WITH TWO CROSSES FIGURE 25 Page W 1 WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM Securing the Crosses Removing the Warp for the Warping Board Attaching the Raddle Winding the Apron Attaching the Warp to the Apron Sticks in the Raddle Cross Page W 2 In the threading cross each thread crosses the next thread in opposite directions In the raddle cross groups of threads cross each other The number of threads in a raddle group can be determined by the number of ends to be placed in each section of the raddle or by the number of threads you are holding in your hand while winding the warping board Before removing the warp from the board or the reel secure the crosses Use four ties to secure each cross These ties go on each side of both pegs holding the cross Itis usually a good idea to use different color threads for the ties on the tops of the pegs and another color to tie the bows underneath the pegs By color coding your ties you are less likely to twist the warp later Remove the warp from the warping board by chaining or by winding on the kitestick Start from the threading cross and proceed to the raddle cross Since the capacity of the warping board is limited for wide warps you will end up making a number of mini warps and taking them off individually Before winding on the warp on the beam most of the tension should be r
27. that both rely on the action of a dead fall weight to create the energy needed to roll your cloth onto a rear mounted Cloth Storage Beam that is they harness gravity to do work And both systems move your cloth to this beam automatically you need only wind the weight back up when it s reached the limit of its travel The problem is that you have two drums that turn in opposite directions simultaneously The best antidote here is to come to know the system so well that you can visualize its operation at any moment TABLE 3 CLOTH STORAGE A The cloth isn t moving backwards onto bottom of its track and the Storage Roller Page W 54 1 The weight is at the Wind the weight to the top position If the weight does not want to stay in the is no longer pulling on the cord so there s no energy left to roll cloth onto the Storage Roller 2 The cord on the Cloth Storage Drum at the rear slackens unspools and leaves quite a mess The cord at the Cloth Take Up Drum in the front may even snarl and wrap around its axle 3 The Cloth Storage Spring has come unhooked at the loom frame orthe spring has broken top position check if you forgot to insert the pull pin when you last had the Cloth Storage Roller off or the pin has fallen out Replace the pin You will achieve the best result if you simply reinstall the system First locate the instructions in your manual in the Assembly section that pertain to
28. the cable retainer in the next set of pulleys Repeat these two steps for the next fifteen harness cables At this point all ofthe harness cables should be over all ofthe pulleys on the right side of the loom Now tighten down the cable retainer above the right set of pulleys so that it almost touches the pulleys Don t tighten the cable retainers down far enough that they impede the movement ofthe pulleys It is essential to the proper functioning of the loom that they be free to move The cable retain ers only purpose is to keep the cables from jumping to a neighboring pulley Route the long ends of each of the sixteen cables over the far left set of pulleys under the cable retainers Now tighten the left cable retainer as you did the right one Very good Now on to the next step Locating and Identifying the Harnesses Preparing for Harness Assembly Understanding Your Heddles Harness Assembly see Figure 6 HARNESS ASSEMBLY Locate your harness sticks They are long thin pieces of wood with eyelets on either end There should be two groups One group is labeled The other group is separated into bundles of eight harness sticks each Each of the bundles of eight bottom harness sticks are labeled with a 1 or 2 Leave the tape and number stamp on these until they are needed You ll need a table top for this next step What you are going to do is assemble the harnesses so that you can hang them on the
29. the loom through the tension box and onto the beam Throughout the warping process the tension box automatically keeps a constant and uniform tension on the warp Not only does this system save time but it makes it possible to wind on very long warps which would never fit on a warping board or reel First you must calculate the number of spools or cones of yarn you will need Each section is wound onto the sectional beam separately therefore you ll need to have one spool or cone for each end in that section 1f your section is 2 wide with sixteen E P I that would be thirty two spools or cones of yarn NOTE It used to be that all sections were 2 wide On an AVL sectional beam with metal pegs you can decide to use 1 2 or any number of inches sections You can simply add more pegs in the pre made holes or take them out Page W 9 WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM To prepare for sectional beam warping we need to calculate a how many spools we need to wind b how many yards do we need to wind on each spool c total yardage for the project a NUMBER OF SPOOLS Sectional beaming requires the use of as many spools loaded with thread per individual section as your planned sett in the reed dictates To calculate the actual number of spools re quired we need to know how many EPI are we going to use in the fabric what SIZE SELECTION will we have to use in the fabric If your warp is set at 24 epi per 1 you
30. then fold over the edges an inch on each side Be sure the warp is wound between the two folded edges not overlap ping them WARP WIDTH 4 WARP WIDTH WARPWIDTH iC BROWN WRAPPING PAF ER P FOLD LINE PREPARED PAPER WITH FOLDED EDGE FIGURE 27 Page W 4 Winding the Warp WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM When winding the warp onto the upper beam from the back i e with the warp spread out in back of the loom turn the crank in a clockwise direction When winding the warp onto the lower beam from the back turn the crank in a counterclockwise direction WARP STICK IM GROOVE IH BEAM WARP BEAM WINDING ON THE WARP FIGURE 28 Remember wind the warp on tightly under a lot of tension This will vary with each warp material but a good rule to remember is that the tension of the wound on warp must be greater than the tension during the weaving operation You will need one person to hold a warp under tension on the back and one person to wind the warp on the beam using a handle The person winding the warp can also insert the paper For a wide heavy warp several helpers may be required Page W 5 WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM Threading Cross Remove the Raddle Two Beams Page W 6 If you have to do it yourself you can use the jerking method Make one turn around with your beam crank and then go to the back of the loom and jerk one section at a time to make the warp that is already on t
31. this point you should have an assembly made up of one harness stick with eyelets facing away from you and one bundle of heddles still possessing four twist ties Around the end ofthe harness should be the heddles The heddles should be oriented so that their eyes are between you and the harness stick Notice that there is another space between the twist ties that should be lying between the eyes of the heddles and you that will accommodate another harness stick Okay now untape the bundle of Z2 harness sticks Take one of these harnesses to the table and with the eyelets facing you insert the end of the harness into the space in the heddles Page A 1 HARNESS ASSEMBLY Page A 16 HARNESS CABLE HARNESS PULLEY HARNESS ASSEMBLY 8 Ui waa AN AE LI b SPRING ADJUSTING CHAIN SPRING LEVER HARNESS ASSEMBLY FIGURE 6 Now pick up one of the harness wires and notice that there is a copper stop near one end of it That end is the top Insert the bottom end of the harness wire into the hole located at the end of the top harness stick and down through the hole in the bottom harness stick Repeat this for the holes on the other end of the upper and lower harness sticks When you are certain you ve done this correctly you can untie the twist ties Now if you will spread the heddles out along the lengths of the harness sticks you will notice that the heddles are all attached to one another at the top or bott
32. to draw up a plan which is a graph that shows the order in which the pegs are inserted into the dobby bars The peg plan takes the place ofthe tie up and treadling plans used with conventional treadle type looms Use the following procedure for determining your peg plan If you are used to working in tie up mode determine the tie up and treadling plan for the weave structure you will be using as you would for a conventional treadle loom Figure 39 Diagram A is an example showing a typical pattern with its tie up on top and its trea dling plan below In the tie up each vertical column represents one treadle numbered one through sixteen from left to right and each horizontal row represents a harness numbered one through sixteen from bottom to top Squares are filled in showing which harnesses are to be tied to each treadle Please note that the filled in squares represent raised harnesses In the treadling plan below it each horizontal row represents one shed and they are numbered from top to bottom in the order they will be used when weaving At each shed an X is placed in a vertical column representing the treadle which is to be used Make sure your treadling plan represents one complete repeat of all the sheds needed to weave your pattern Now on graph paper you will construct a peg plan In your peg plan each horizontal row will represent one dobby bar and they will be ordered from top to bottom to correspond
33. to the way the dobby chain feeds into the dobby head and each vertical column represents the holes in the dobby bars and their corresponding harnesses If you are using all sixteen harnesses on the loom there will be sixteen vertical columns numbered from left to right The number of horizontal rows or dobby bars needed will be the same as the number of sheds in the treadling plan Refer to the sample peg plan B and notice that there are thirty horizontal rows since there are thirty sheds in the treadling plan A Now you are ready to start filling in squares in your peg plan First look at the first shed 1 in your treadling plan Then look above to its corresponding vertical column in the tie up and note which harnesses are to be raised In diagram A that would be harnesses 2 6 7 9 11 13 and 15 Now fill in the squares that correspond to the har nesses in the first horizontal row of your peg plan as we have done in diagram C This represents the holes which will be pegged in the first dobby bar and thus which harnesses will be raised by it Notice how horizontal rows of the peg plan correspond to vertical columns of the tie up PEGGING THE DOBBY UNIT e Next look at the second shed 2 of your treadling plan and note which harnesses will be raised In diagram A that would be har nesses 1 3 7 8 10 12 14 and 16 Then proceed to the second horizontal row of your peg plan and fill in the squares corresponding to the
34. up chain aside until it is time to place it in the dobby box When pegging up the dobby head one thing that you should remember is that if over 100 to 150 bars are used the weight of this chain of bars may cause the dobby head to skip a bar as it is advanced If you are using a long length of dobby chain and you experience this skipping you ll need to suspend an auxiliary roller a rolling pin would work so that it will support some of weight of the bars Here are some tips for handling your dobby chains First of all keep one chain pegged with tabby weave in a handy location This way you can quickly do tabby weave whenever necessary without having to re peg it each time As you develop a repertoire of weaving patterns which you will be using over again keep a notebook of their peg plans as well as other weaving information and give each weaving pattern a name If you have lots of dobby chain you can just leave the chain pegged up ready to be used at any time Each chain will be easy to identify if you write its name on the top of the first dobby bar Page W 33 WEAVING PROCEDURES Winding Bobbins Page W 34 If you do not have a lot of extra chain here is a little trick that saves time if you are going to be re pegging a pattern over again Cut cardboard strips about the same length and width of the dobby bars Make a guide by punching sixteen holes in one strip so that when that strip is held over a dobby
35. 16 Harness Folding Dobby Loom User s Manual AVL Looms 385 Morrow Lane Suite 9 Chico CA 95928 8305 U S A 530 893 4915 530 893 1372 fax info avlusa com e mail www avlusa com Copyright O 2001 Rights Reserved Worldwide TABLE OF CONTENTS Assembly Section Figure Index Introduction 1 1 How to Use This Manual 1 Parts List A 2 Loom Orientation Assembly 4 Tools Needed for Assembly 4 Loom Assembly 4 Unpacking 4 Identifying Parts 4 Hardware Identifying and Measuring A 4 Bolt and Nut Hints A 5 Identifying Side Frame Parts 5 Joining Side Frames 6 The Treadle Pulley Assembly 6 The Lower Front A 6 A Attaching the Lower Front to the Loom A 6 B Removing Rods and Blocks 7 Attaching the Treadles A 7 The Spring Lever Assembly A 8 The Support Arm A 8 The Folding Legs A 8 The Harness Pulley Support A 10 Locate the Dobby Cam Assembly A 11 Installation of Dobby Head A 12 Beater Bumpers A 12 Mounting the Dobby A 12 Mounting the Dobby Arm A 12 Checking the Springs A 12 Dobby Arm Stop Pin A 12 Harness Tie Up A 14 Attaching the Harness Cables A 14 Cable Retainers A 14 Laying the Harness Cables A 14 Tightening the Cable Retainers A 14 Routing the Cables A 14 Harness Assembly A 15 Locating and Identifying the Harnesses A 15 Preparing for Harness Assembly A 15 Understanding Your Heddles A 15 Harness Assembly A 15 Spring Installation A 18 Attaching the Spring Lever Chai
36. E 1 HARNESSES cont d C One or more 1 Left treadle isn t Concentrate on getting both treadles all harnesses that are being pressed all the the way through their travel supposed to raise way down don t 2 Dobby arm out of Realign the dobby arm according to the adjustment assembly instructions 3 Dobby Cables out of Rearrange the cables according to the finger slots assembly instructions D Harnesses don t 1 Harness cables have Rearrange the cables raise properly been hooked to the wrong harness 2 Chains from the Rearrange the cables spring levers have been hooked to the wrong harnesses 3 Copperhooks on the Straighten the hooks with pliers spring levers have been E Harnesses jam up 1 Heddles are not Redistribute the heddles evenly on both on each other distributed evenly over from the center of the harness the harness sticks sticks 2 Harness wire that Pull the wire out make sure it does not connects the harness catch any heddles and replace it to just sticks has jumped out connect the top and the bottom harness and got stuck in the sticks heddles of the other harness If you have a large number of extra heddles on each side you might want to tie them in bundles to prevent getting caught by the harness wire Warp tension is controlled by a special spring actuated tension drum which insures a constant tension at all times The tension is easily adjusted and the
37. Figure 9 Right Treadle Cable with Turnbuckle Adjusting the Turnbuckle TREADLE TIE UP Now let s handle the right treadle Look at the Dobby Cam and Pulley Assembly and you ll see another cable wound around and taped to the groove in the cam pulley nearest to the front of the loom Untape and partially unwind the cable around the pulley Run the cable over the top of the pulley directly above the right treadle and down to meet the treadle Attach the end of this cable to the treadle as you did before Look at your Dobby Head and notice that there s one more cable coming out of the bottom of it Notice also that there s an eyebolt on the bottom end of the cable with a metal turnbuckle attached to it Okay now turn your attention back to the Dobby Cam and Pulley Assembly There is wound around the middle groove in the assembly a cable with an eyebolt on the end of it taped down Untape this cable and rotate the Dobby Cam Assem bly by hand in a clockwise direction as you are looking at it from the rear ofthe loom This will cause the short treadle cable to wind up on its pulley and raise the right treadle Keep rotating the pulley until the treadle comes all the way up and stops against the treadle pulley This has also probably caused the cable that you have just un taped to get wound up on the Dobby Cam Assembly If it has unwind the cable while you hold onto the Dobby Cam making sure that the right treadle stays up against the trea
38. LY Unpacking IDENTIFYING PARTS Hardware Identifying and Measuring Page A 4 Before we really get going there are a few things you should know in order to better understand our instructions First and very important is what we mean when we say the front of the loom The front of the loom is the end where the bench is The back of the loom then is where the warp beam is Everything is oriented as if you were sitting in the weaving position The right side of the loom is the side of your right as you are sitting at the loom and left side to your left A piece marked bottom would of course go toward the floor There is a full drawing of the Folding Dobby Loom on the preceding page This can be referred to as often as necessary to obtain relative placements of assemblies Following this drawing is a parts numbers list Since this list includes the names of all parts and assemblies you may need to refer back to it Study all of the drawings carefully and make certain that your assem bly looks like the one in the drawing before continuing The right and left of the dobby is oriented as if you were standing right in front of it There are a few tools you ll need before we can get started These are a phillips head screwdriver a light hammer a pair of pliers a four or six inch crescent wrench and a ratchet socket set The very first thing you need to do is take a nice deep breath and slowly exhale Now you can unp
39. TING THE WARP FIGURE 29 Page W 7 WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM When do You need to Tension Your Warps Separately Setting Two Beams Page W 8 When weaving a Very different size yarns b Yarns with different stretching qualities c Different densities d Different structures e Supplementary warp techniques because some warp threads do not interlace as often as others f group of special yarns for selvedges and borders g Loops piles or puckers like seersucker h More then one layer with different setts in each layer i than one layer with a different pick count in each layer If you are confident in setting one beam it is just as easy to set up a loom with two beams It might take twice as much time and you do need to be more careful not to mix sequences a b c d e Wind each warp on the beam the same way you would do it if there were only one beam on the loom plain or sectional Make a cross and have a pair of lease sticks with a cross in each warp Bring the warp with the lease sticks from the top beam around and under the top separation roller Bring the warp with the lease sticks from the bottom beam around and above the bottom separation roller Hang both pairs of lease sticks one a little above the other so you can see each lease from the threading position Proceed with a threading as if you only had one beam one cross following your threading instruction
40. Then wind the apron once around itself so that it holds itself in place Then simply route the apron under the rear cloth storage roller under the lower roller over the upper roller and over the cloth beam If necessary release the stop pin and gently wind the apron up until the metal apron bar is in the proper position for tying on to As the weaving proceeds and the cloth is wound forward the weight on the pulley will gradually descend Before the weight hits bottom wind it back up to the top using the take up drum This will happen about every 1 1 2 to 2 yards After you ve completed your weaving use the following procedure for removing the cloth from your loom e bring the weight to its topmost position and replace the stop pin in the rear cloth storage drum cut your cloth off where desired and lift it off the cloth beam e go to the back of the loom and grasp the cloth storage roller at both ends Lift the right side ofthe roller up and toward you until it disen gages with the ratchet on the left manually wind the excess cloth onto the storage roller e take the cloth off the roller rewind the cord that routes from the rear cloth storage drum to the front take up drum and handle To do this first take off the weight and set it aside Remove the rear cloth storage drum pin and swing the little ratchet pawl off so that it disengages the ratchet The ratchet pawl can be found on the right side of the loom to the outsid
41. URE 3 Page A 9 JOINING SIDE FRAMES The Harness Pulley Support Page A 10 Locate a 39 separation roller If you ordered one beam you will have one of these rollers If you ordered two beams you will have two rollers Next you will need to insert the axles at the end of the separation roller s 39 into the folding legs At this point you will need to decide which holes to use as there are two possible locations for the separation rollers If your loom will be equipped with two beams you will use both positions placing one roller in each position However if you will just be using one beam on your loom you will now need to make a decision You need to decide if you want your beam in the upper or lower position Generally speaking you would put a plain beam in the upper position as it is a bit more convenient of a location However if you plan to use a sectional beam you may want to put it in the lower position thus making the set up loom more stable and less top heavy This would not normally be a cause for concern unless you plan to use densely packed and fully loaded sectional beam on a regular basis Now that you have decided where the roller s go insert their axles into the holes on the inside face ofthe folding legs These are the closest holes to the top of the legs that don t go through Arrange both legs so that the rollers are captive between the two legs Now locate the leg stiffner This is a plain wooden bar with
42. W 15 Figure 33 Yardage Counter on Tension Box W 16 Figure 34 Threading Position W 19 Figure 35 Tying onto Apron W 21 Figure 36 Wrapping Warp Around Sandpaper Beam W 22 FIGURE INDEX Figure 37 Figure 38 Figure 39 Figure 40 Figure 41 Figure 42 Figure 43 Figure 44 Figure 45 Figure 46 Figure 47 Tension Device Feeding Dobby Chain into Dobby Head Tie Up and Treadling Plan a and b Tie Up and Treadling Plan c d and e Tie Up and Treadling Plan f Tie Up and Treadling g Winding the Bobbin Feeding the Bobbin Winding Guide Using the Bobbin Winding Guide Lower Beam Locking Brake Assembly Upper Beam Locking Brake Assembly W 24 W 27 W 29 W 30 W 31 W 32 W 34 W 35 W 36 W 45 W 46 NOLLOUS ATEHINASSV PREFACE How to Use This Manual INTRODUCTION No doubt you want to get to the business and the fun of setting up your loom Okay but first a few words of advice There s probably some of you who don t like to read directions or think that this manual is entirely too thick and you don t have time to read all the way through it Please read through the directions and follow them step by step with us You will spend less time and will end up with the loom looking and working as we have planned it There are others of you who have never touched a hex bolt and are not even sure you know what one is To you we say Try it if you follow the instructions step by step and take your time you will be surprised at wha
43. ack your boxes being very careful not to throw any parts away with the packing paper Remove all strapping tape and bubble pack Lay all ofthe parts out so that you will be able to identify each one as they are called for Pick up your bag marked cross member hardware Empty its contents onto atable top In the bag are hex bolts carriage bolts washers hex nuts square nuts wing nuts allen wrenches and two or four black knobs Hex bolts for those who don t speak hardwarese yet have a six sided head and are measured for length between the bottom face of the head and the bottom of the bolt threads The diameter is the thickness of the bolt mea sured at the threaded end and is the distance from one side of the circle to the other This can be measured with a ruler Hex bolts always get a washer between the head and the surface of the wood to prevent damage to the wood Bolt and Nut Hints Identifying Side Frame Parts LOOM ASSEMBLY Carriage bolts are the ones with rounded heads They are measured for length the same as hex bolts Carriage bolts never get a washer between the head of the bolt and the wood These bolts are always attached at the end with a washer and either a hex nut a nut with six sides or a wing nut a nut with wings Hex nuts always have a washer between them and the wood and square nuts always go in nut access holes see Figure 3 and attach with no washer to a hex bolt Allen wrenches are little
44. and re mount all three blocks to the lower front The order of parts in the assembly now should be as follows from left to right Left mounting block rod with stop collar left treadle the long one center mounting block right treadle stop collar and rod and finally the right mounting block Now bring your stop collars up to within 1 8 from each treadle and tighten them down There is indeed a reason for all the excess rod This loom if it were in it s Modular mode could accommodate up to ten treadles Page A 7 JOINING SIDE FRAMES The Spring Lever Assembly The Support Arm The Folding Legs Page A 8 Locate the spring lever assembly 11 This assembly consists of two long pieces attached by rods with many short thin rectangular spring levers between Orient this assembly so that the stamp bottom front is toward the front ofthe loom and facing the floor Make certain that the shorter spring levers are to the front Using the two 1 4 x 2 1 2 hex bolts with washer and square nut attach the back of the spring lever assembly to the side frames Attach the front piece to the side frames using the two 1 4 x 3 1 4 hex bolts and square nuts Locate the two support arm assemblies These each consist of an oblong piece rounded at each end with a wooden spacer at one end The left one has a plain wooden spacer and the right one has a wooden spacer with a groove around it Remove the nut and washer from
45. arriage bolts that attach the legs to the shuttle race Watch the heads of these bolts as you tighten them The square portion of the head should be drawn into the wood but the rounded part of the bolt head should stay above the surface of the wood Page A 37 BEATER ASSEMBLIES B Locate your left Drop Box Assembly they are marked and You will notice that there are two holes through the Back Plate in the lower right corner and a larger one in the upper right corner with an intersecting hole coming from the right edge Looking a few inches from the top ofthe left beater leg you will find a horizontal hole through the width of the leg just below the slot for the Beater Top This hole should be offset to the front of the shuttle race side ofthe leg Take a 5 16 x 4 1 2 hex bolt with a washer on it insert it through the hole in the leg from the inside through the hole in the edge of the upper right corner of the Drop Box Assembly and thread it onto a square nut inserted in the nut access hole in the back plate Do not tighten this yet Your Drop Box Assembly should now be at tached to the leg with this one bolt with the movable boxes in the front C Attach the Drop Box Assembly to the shuttle race with two 5 16 x 2 3 4 carriage bolts inserted from the front with washers and hex nuts behind the back plate Now tighten all bolts holding the Drop Box Assembly to the beater Important The face ofthe Back Plate must be pre
46. ax 0000 steel wool pad 2208 sandpaper Paraffin wax b Spare Parts You Might Consider Having Spare Treadle Cable left right Spare Flyshuttle Tie Up Cord Flyshuttle only Spare Picker Returns Flyshuttle only 6 length of 3502 Braided Dacron Cord for emergency repairs TROUBLESHOOT 1 ING LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING Harnesses Your AVL will have either polyester or metal heddles The supporting harnesses or shafts are different for the two heddle types metal heddles whether twisted wire or flat steel are suspended from rigid frames polyester heddles are carried on transverse Harness Sticks top and bottom In all cases the harnesses are stabilized at the bottom by a series of spring tensioned levers Spring Levers These hold the harnesses down and prevent your heddles from floating Some weavers like metal heddles because they believe they are easier to thread others prefer the lighter and quieter polyester heddles On occasion you will find that one or more of your harnesses will misbe have That is more likely to happen with harnesses with Polyester Heddles There are a finite number of things that can cause these problems TABLE 1 HARNESSES A One or more top harness stick collapses it assumes a diagonal angle and one leg of the harness cable from which it is suspended goes slack B The heddles float they are lifter upwards by the warp thread when you te
47. bbin Winding Guide B One side of your 1 Your beater is out of To check push your beater all the way fabric is beaten more alignment back against the Beater Bumper Blocks tightly than the other it should strike both sides at exactly the even if you are holding same time If it doesn t you ll need to your beater in the rack the beater middle You have a diagonal beat line rather than horizontal Page W 57 LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING 6 Dobby TABLE 6 DOBBY A Dobby skips 1 Pressing too hard Press the treadles with a smooth too quickly on the rhythmical motion treadles 2 Cable turnbuckle out Adjust according to the assembly of adjustment instructions B Dobby head jams 1 Dobby chain not Reverse the dobby and turn by hand to brought out over the top get the dobby chain out of the lower roller 2 Dobby cable Adjust the turnbuckle according to the turnbuckle out of assembly instructions adjustment C Dobby chain does 1 Detent wheel onthe Contact AVL Looms customer service for not advance dobby head is loose advice on correcting this problem 7 Left Treadle Issues If you do not fully depress the Left Treadle each time you lift you will experience problems with your harnesses Because the Left Treadle is unweighted it s easy to forget that you need to do this However this treadle does something very important it releases the harnesses that were engaged
48. bby Chains W 33 Weaving Procedures W 34 Winding Bobbins W 34 Using the AVL Bobbin Winding Guide W 35 Placing Bobbin in the Shuttle W 37 TABLE OF CONTENTS Feeding the Shuttle with Standard Tensioner Adjusting the Tension W 37 Feeding the Thick Yarn Shuttle Adjusting the Tension W 37 To Remove or to Change the Reed W 37 Using the Flyshuttle Beater W 37 Throwing the Flyshuttle W 38 Double Box W 39 Starting a New Bobbin W 39 Weaving with Two or More Shuttles on a Single Box Flyshuttle Beater W 40 Starting Your Weaving W 40 Mechanical Dobby W 40 Advancing the Cloth W 40 Using the Cloth Storage Roller W 40 Removing the Cloth from the Loom W 41 Adjusting the Beater and Spring Levers W 42 Locking Brake System W 43 Locking Brake System Optional Equipment W 43 Upper and Lower Beam Locking Brakes W 43 Assembly W 44 Tension Cable Part 1 W 44 Foot Lever Assembly W 44 A Right Side Assemblies W 44 B Left Side Assemblies W 44 Foot Lever Release W 44 Tension Cable Part 2 A Right Side Assemblies W 44 B Left Side Assemblies W 44 Attaching Hooks and Chains W 45 Use W 45 Loom Maintenance and Troubleshooting W 47 Loom Maintenance W 47 1 Tightening the Bolts W 47 2 Lubrication and Cleaning W 47 3 Cleaning a Filter W 47 a Compu Dobbies I W 47 b Compu Dobbies II W 48 4 Checking Cords and Cables W 48 5 Tool Kit and Spare Parts W 48 a Minimum Tools W 48 b Spare Parts You Might Consider Having W 48 TABLE OF CONTENTS Troub
49. both or more than two shuttles you can simply unclip the cords and handle and remove the sliding pickers so that they don t get in your way Then use the beater as you would a standard beater If you are weaving a wide piece in this way you might experience difficulty in getting the shuttle through the shed without interfering with the box sides If so just remove the four screws from each front box side and remove them This will give you plenty of room to work If you do much of this type of weaving you should probably consider the double box or four box flyshuttle beater At the onset of weaving first weave in one inch of a strong medium weight weft with a tabby weave Check the tabby weave for errors Any errors in the threading or sleying will show up here and it is an excellent time to make corrections The position ofthe forward reverse cord determines the direction in which the dobby chain will move When the cord is in its most extended position with the knot caught on the outside of the hole in the wooden stop bracket the chain moves in a counterclockwise direction To reverse the direction in which the chain moves gently pull and snap the cord so that the knot goes through the hole and rests on the other side of the stop Be careful not to pull the cord too hard or you will pull the spring out of shape To advance the cloth you simply wind it forward by using the ratchet handle while the beater is in its forward position Mak
50. ce making sure that the tapered sides of the legs are facing outward Don t completely tighten the nuts just yet as a squaring adjustment will be made shortly Now locate the reed support It is the long thin wooden part with six holes in it and a slot similar to the one in the shuttlerace Using six 5 16 x 3 1 4 carriage bolts attach the reed support to the back of the shuttle race with the slot to the top and facing the shuttle race The bolts should be inserted from the front of the shuttle race so that the washer and wing nuts will end up to the rear of the assembly Before tightening the wing nuts install the bottom edge of your reed in the void created by the slot in the reed support and shuttle race Center the reed between the two legs and tighten down the six wing nuts BEATER ASSEMBLIES REAR VIEW FRONT HARNESS PULLEY SUPPORT BEATER TOP SHIFT HANDLE aun PL Fi Ret DROP BOX BEATER ASSEMBLY LEG SHOWN FROM REAR BOTTOM SWING DOUBLE BOX FLYSHUTTLE BEATER FIGURE 21 There is a slot along the underneath side of the beater top which slides over the top edge of the reed Push the beater top down on the top of the reed Insert a 1 4 x 2 1 4 carriage bolt through the hole near each end of the beater top and through the slot at the top of each leg Tighten each end down with a washer and wing nut Now making certain that the beater assembly is centered on the loom securely tighten the c
51. cisely flush with the face ofthe beater leg Check this align ment by laying a straight edge across the two surfaces D Repeatthis procedure for the right Drop Box Assembly Multiple Box NOTE The multiple box flystring tie up is currently available in two Flystring Tie Up different configurations both of which are described below If you didn t Assembly specify a preference you were sent the latest model which we refer to as the Side Pull style The other configuration we offer is referred to as the Vertical Pull model Neither style is particularly better than the other it is more a matter of personal preference Side Pull Flystring E Remove the last remaining items from your better hardware package Tie Up three screweyes and screw them into the two holes on the bottom edge of the front harness pulley support near each end of the part Screw the third screweye into the hole located at the very center of the loom A thin screwdriver allen wrench or other similar object may be used to drive these screweyes into the pre drilled holes Locate the bag marked Multiple Box Flystring Tie Up Side Pull and remove its contents This tie up can now be attached to the loom as shown in Figure 20 Start by attaching the three snaps to the screweyes that you just installed The snap that comes from the top of the handle can now be attached to the center screweye The remain ing two snaps can also be attached to the remaining two scre
52. cure reed will assure a good straight run ofthe shuttle Now orient your beater top so that the groove is facing down and the cut outs at either end are facing toward the rear of the loom Insert 1 4 x 2 1 4 carriage bolts into the holes located at each end starting them from the front Placing the beater top over the race and reed slide the bolts into the slots at the top of the beater legs and once the reed is securely inside the groove in the beater top attach the washers and wing nuts and tighten Now securely tighten the carriage bolts that attach the legs to the race but be careful not to overtighten them Page A 33 BEATER ASSEMBLIES Now locate the flystring supports These are two small wooden bars that each have a screweye at one end They were packed with the flyshuttle beater These flystring supports should be attached to the inside face of each top horizontal side frame piece as shown in Figure 19 Insert two 1 4 x 2 1 4 carriage bolts from the outside of the two holes on each top hori zontal directly above the beater assembly These supports should hang down from the top horizontal with the screweye end on the bottom Tighten the supports securely with washers and hex nuts a FLYSTRING SUPPORTS C 5 16 Pt BOLTS ATTACHING THE FLYSTRING SUPPORTS FIGURE 19 Page A 34 BEATER ASSEMBLIES Now locate the long hook from the beater hardware package and screw it into the hole on the bottom edge of fr
53. d line in Figure 14 When the end of the cord is between the two upper cloth storage pulleys insert it into the metal counter weight pulley and continue routing over the last pulley and onto the concave surface of the cloth take up drum handle assembly Thread the cord end through the hole at the base of the concave surface of the drum and tie a double knot on the outside Insert the retention pin through the hole in the cloth storage drum see Figure 10 Attach the counter weight a black cylindrical weight to the loop on the counter weight pulley E UPPER ROLLER 26 SEPARATION ROLLERS Ln 39 WAR BEAM CLOTH STORAGE BRUM ROUTING OF STORAGE STRING ae SECTION THEOLGH LOOM ROUTING OF THE CLOTH STORAGE STRING f LOTH BEAM ug d CLOTH T AEE LiC DRUM HANDLE CLOTH STORAGE COUNTER WEIGHT LOWER ROLLER 26 FIGURE 14 Page A 27 TENSIONING THE BEAMS The tension device consists of a large and a small spring a length of cord an adjusting cord and clamp and the anchor bracket which is pre mounted on the folding leg Tensioning the Upper Assemble the tension device as shown in Figure 15 wrapping the cord four Beam times around the tension drum It is imperative that the cord not be crossed over itselfto insure proper and consistent tension Double check your work at this point by making sure that the larger spring is to the rear ofthe loom Tensioning the Lower
54. d properly tighten down the wing nuts under the tension box At this point you can pivot the pivoting reed section so that the yarn comes close to but doesn t quite touch either the peg to the left or the peg to the right Now tighten the wing nut under the pivoting reed This shouldn t need to be readjusted until you are using yarn of a very different size ADJUSTING THE SIZE OF THE SECTION FIGURE 31 Extra care to correctly center and adjust the width of each warp section will result in more perfect tension while weaving Make sure that the threads are going on to the beam in flat layers If you notice that warp piles up at the pegs the section of the warp is too wide If the warp falls down at the pegs the warp section is too narrow CREATING FLAT LAYERS FIGURE 32 Page W 15 WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM Counting Turns or Yardage Page W 16 If any of the above 1s happening go back and pivot the front reed on the tension box again until you get perfectly flat layers This is very important otherwise you will end up having different length threads in one section since the circumference of the beam within the section is not going to grow evenly Therefore you will end up having lots of tension problems To determine the length of the warp you are putting on the beam you need to count either turns revolutions or yards To count turns you can do it in your head but it is more reliable to use a digital or m
55. dle pulley Now take hold of the end of the eyebolt and pull it up toward the Dobby Head If you ve done the assembly correctly you should be able to make the treadle go up and down by pulling the eyebolt on the cable up and letting it down Good now take the turnbuckle completely off the Dobby cable and then restart it again but just enough to get it started not more than two turns Now pull up the cable that makes the treadle go up and down and route it in the manner shown in Figure 9 Screw the turnbuckle to the eyebolt this is a reverse thread so turn the turnbuckle in the same direction you did to start it onto the Dobby cable eyebolt That s it except for the final adjustment The purpose of the turnbuckle is that it provides a way to adjust treadle travel so that you get a full shed In order to get the proper adjustment you ll need to tighten or loosen the turnbuckle until when the left treadle is pushed all the way down the Dobby Arm raises and touches the upper bumper in the Dobby Box side At this point the short treadle should stop about 1 2 below its cable pulley When adjusted properly the right treadle should stop approximately 1 from the floor on it s down swing and 1 2 from the cable pulley on it s upswing Page A 21 INSTALLING BEAMS AND ROLLERS Rear Cloth Storage System Rollers Page A 22 A Upper amp Lower Rollers Now the roller tubes for the rear cloth storage system can be installed Since t
56. during the winding of the beam as long as you are using the same type of yarn Once the tension box has been threaded it is not always necessary to rethread it If you need to change spools or cones simply tie the new ends on to the old ends just before the rear stationary reed then gently pull on the old ends until the new ends have come all the way through the box Before you start winding the warp attach the section of the warp to an extension cord tie an overhead knot in the warp threads from one section and slip that knot into the opening of the larkshead knot you created in the extension cord Pull it tight NOTE If you will be using a flyshuttle and are planning a narrow warp you need to offset the warp 4 to the right instead of centering it Remem ber the right refers to the right side of the loom as you are seeing it from the weaving position at the loom bench This offset will ensure even selvedges Route the warp ends and extension cords between the two metal rollers and either down to the lower beam or up to the upper beam Turn the warp beam handle in a clockwise direction for the upper beam counterclockwise for the lower beam Adjusting the Size of the Section WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM Line up the tension box approximately behind the section you will be winding Now wind about one yard onto the beam As you wind you will need to fine tune the placement of the tension box along the track When it is centere
57. e of the cloth take up drum and handle Turn the rear cloth storage drum so that the cord winds back onto it evenly This can be done quickly and easily by inserting the drum reverse handle pin into the cotter pin hole and using it as a handle Page W 41 WEAVING PROCEDURES Adjusting the Beater and Spring Levers Page W 42 Replace the empty rear cloth storage roller and the stop pin Replace the weight This process needn t be done after every warp is removed Once it is practiced a few times however it becomes fast and easy and if incor porated into your finishing ritual may save you from running out of string in the middle of a warp and interrupting your momentum e replace the empty rear cloth storage roller in the loom In preparation for weaving all AVL beaters should be adjusted in height so that the bottom half of the shed is just touching the shuttle race in the open shed position So open a shed to open a shed on the dobby loom press downward on the right treadle when closing the shed on the dobby make sure the left treadle goes all the way down and raise or lower the beater by using the adjusting wing nut screws which are near the bottom of the beater legs for floor mounted beaters Floor mounted beaters can also be placed in one of three positions depend ing on your personal preference and or how hard the fabric will be beaten For a very heavy beat the beater should be placed in its rearmost position
58. e plan ning a short warp and are going to have your cloth build up around your cloth beam Wind the warp beam forward raise the tension arm while doing so until enough warp is released so that the warp ends will extend about twelve inches past the cloth beam Now take a group of ends about three inches wide with one hand and use the other hand to comb them flat This can be done using a common hair comb Starting at the reed gently comb the yarn toward the ends until the yarn is flat and spread out Now gently pull with the other hand to give it a little tension and lay it over the abrasive surface of the cloth beam Repeat this procedure all the way across the warp Now that you have nice even tension you can wrap the ends that were hanging down around the bottom of the cloth beam Page W 21 THREADING SLEYING AND TYING ON This method is fast and usually quite accurate However there are certain warp materials that are not suitable for this method see NOTE below In that case simply tie onto the apron as instructed above NOTE The shortcut method does not work well with chenille In fact if you will be weaving with chenille warps regularly we recommend the use of a soft grip cloth beam covering This can be ordered through AVL TANTIN WRAPPING WARP AROUND SANDPAPER BEAM FIGURE 36 Tying on to an Old Warp Page W 22 A new warp can be tied on to an old warp thus eliminating the threading and sleying proces
59. e right side the Dobby is mounted Now lift up the Dobby Unit and insert the protruding bolts into the corresponding holes in the upper horizon tal and castle side Replace the washers and hex nuts and tighten Once the Dobby is in place you can also tighten the four nuts that hold the Harness Pulley Supports in place Lift the Dobby Arm and support into place see Figure 1 With the heads to the outside using the 5 16 x 2 1 2 hex bolts provided attach the Dobby Arm Support to the upper horizontal loosely We will be making an adjustment to this later Sometimes during shipping the springs on the Dobby Head come off their anchor pins Check your unit against Figure 5 to make sure they are all in their proper places Good now don t worry about all of those cables coming from within the Dobby We ll make sense of them in the next step By now you may have noticed a pin with a knob at one end of it that sits in a plastic hanger on the back edge of the dobby Its purpose is to hold the dobby arm in the lower position a feature that will come in handy when you thread your heddles Its operation will be described later on in the weaving section of the manual For now just remove the tape that is hold ing it in place INSTALLATION OF DOBBY HEAD SCREW POST DOBBY HEAD vrew FROM FRONT FIGURE 5 Page A 13 HARNESS TIE UP Attaching the Harness Cables Cable Retainers Laying the Harness Cables Tightening the Cab
60. e sure the fell ofthe cloth does not go beyond the front of the beater in order not to have to wind it backwards This easy rapid method of advancing the cloth makes it practical to advance the cloth about every two inches of weaving By maintaining this two inch weaving space the swing of the beater and the shed angle are kept more nearly constant and this makes it much easier to weave a uniform fabric When weaving long lengths of fabric the material is taken around the front cloth beam and through the loom to the rear cloth storage roller which can accommodate a roll up to 10 in diameter The cloth storage system which consists of three rollers cord weight pulley and two drums is designed to automatically wind the cloth onto the storage roller as the warp is advanced A looser tension is maintained on the storage roller than on the weaving This eliminates any unnecessary strain or matting of the fabric Removing the Cloth from the Loom WEAVING PROCEDURES The special abrasive surface of the cloth beam holds the proper weaving tension while allowing a lighter tension to be maintained for cloth storage This also makes it possible to weave long lengths of fabric that have an uneven surface which would ordinarily cause poor tension because of the uneven build up on the front beam You will need a long apron for this purpose With the weight at the top and the stop pin in place tape the plain edge of the apron to the storage roller
61. echanical revolution counter Counting revolutions even with a digital counter will still give the approxi mate warp length only because the circumference of the beam will increase slightly with each rotation This is called beam build up To count yards with a yardage counter while warping the sectional beam you need to place the yardage counter at the front of the tension box You should use an extra thread for measuring yardage because if you use one of the threads from your warp section that particular thread would have a different tension once you start weaving The extra thread you use for measuring purposes only can be reused for each section FRONT PIVOTING YARDAGE COUNTER ON TENSION BOX FIGURE 33 Creating the Cross Sticks in the Treading Cross Routing the Warp Combining Sectional and Plain Warping WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM When there is about a half yard left to be wound onto the beam it is time to make the threading cross Simply push on the rear heddle frame of the tension box making half of the threads go up and the other half go down Now slip in an eight inch piece of contrasting thread called a marking thread through the opening called a shed created between the threads above and the threads below Locate this marking thread about half way between the tension box and the separation roller Now push on the front heddle frame making the other half of the threads go up Now take one end of your ma
62. eleased from the tension system This can be done quickly and simply by removing the steel ring at the end of the tension cord from its mounting post and placing it on the screw provided at the edge of the folding leg To protect the smaller spring from overstretching this procedure should be done whenever the beam is turned in this direction Using this method you can easily reduce the tension without having to readjust your tension each time you have to back up the warp Now secure the raddle to the back of the loom If you have an AVL raddle simply slip it into the set of holes in the back ofthe rear vertical members Put your apron on the beam with velcro and wind your beam in the warping direction so that your apron is wound on the beam Bring the apron around the separation roller and put the metal rod through You can also put your warp section onto that rod or you can attach another one with the warp Place two lease sticks in the raddle cross and secure together with string through the holes in the ends ofthe sticks Now remove the ties from the raddle cross and spread the warp out on the sticks Measure the center of your raddle to use it as a center of your warp The warp threads should either go through the middle of the raddle or be offset 4 to the right WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM NOTE If you are going to be using a flyshuttle and you are planning a narrow warp you need to offset the warp four inches to the right instead of
63. ening the tension box support arms to the folding legs This way the arms track legs and tension box ban be removed as one entire unit TENSION BOX HEX BOLT WU WASHER CARRTAGE BOLT a CARRIAGE BOLT 2 Bf j By I WING NUT w WASHER VIEW FROM SIDE END VIEW TENSION BOX ASSEMBLY FIGURE 24 Page A 45 NOLLOAS ONIAVAM WEAVING INSTRUCTION WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM PREFACE WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM Creating Two Crosses Learning to warp and weave on an AVL loom will mean learning some new procedures and techniques even for the experienced weaver Since the looms will not function to their full capacity unless care is taken to dress and operate them properly it is greatly worth your while to study the following instructions in detail The time taken to really make these procedures your own will result in increasing your weaving speed and efficiency and this leads to a greater enjoyment ofthe entire weaving experience If you have ordered only a sectional beam proceed to the section titled Warping the Sectional Beam Various warping methods can be adapted to the AVL loom However we recommend the following method in which the warp is first wound on to the plain beam with the use of a raddle Please study this method and try it We have found that it aids in getting a uniform warp tension especially when dealing with long warps of twenty yards or more To begin wind the warp on a warping board or reel Make
64. ension cords to use when warping the sectional beam Extension cords are also called apron cords and have the same function as the apron on the plain beam They give you reach from the warp beam and allow you to weave every possible inch until the end ofthe warp touches the last shaft you are using Make them out of a strong non stretchable linen or cotton cord You will need to make one extension cord for each section in your sectional beam For each extension cord cut a piece of cord Take the two ends of the cord and knot them together Measure to make sure that they are long enough to reach all the way to the harnesses All extension cords should be exactly the same size When measuring the length of the cords also check to be sure that when the cords are wound on to the beam the end of the loop and any knots in the cords fall between the crosspieces of the sectional beam not on them A sectional beam is usually not solid It is a frame that has metal pegs That way you can keep the warp smooth on the beam without going over the knots of threads Next place a spool or cone rack about five or six feet behind your loom Place the spools or cones for the first warp sections on the cone rack Make sure you put each thread through the metal eye on the spool rack so the threads do not get tangled When arranging the spools on the spool rack it doesn t matter whether you go top to bottom or bottom to top the important thing is to be consist
65. ent The shuttle should stop just at the end of the shuttle box without bouncing too far back or falling short If the shuttle bounces too far back too much weft thread will be let out of the shuttle and a loop may form at the selvage edge Ifthe shuttle falls short of its goal it will not be in the correct position for throw ing the next pick If the shuttle falls short push it to the end with your hand To change shuttles on the double box simply lift up and shift the control handle The easiest position to do that is when the beater is in the position closest to you On the four box there are four settings you ll feel the notches There are two methods e to throw the first shot by hand in the conventional manner Hold on to the end of the thread but instead of catching the shuttle send it all the way to the opposite box e use the flyshuttle Before sliding the shuttle into the box take hold of the end of the thread with the hand that would ordinarily hold the beater Page W 39 WEAVING PROCEDURES Weaving with Two or More Shuttles on a Single Box Flyshuttle Beater Starting Your Weaving Mechanical Dobby Advancing the Cloth Using the Cloth Storage Roller Page W 40 If you are doing a weave that requires two or more shuttles to be thrown in succession and you have a single box flyshuttle beater you will need to hand throw at least one But if you are doing a weave that requires the hand throwing of
66. ent in vertical columns and to place the spools in the order that the threads are in the warp Before winding on the warp on the beam most of the tension should be released from the tension system This can be done quickly and simply by removing the steel ring at the end of the tension cord from its mounting post and placing it on the screw provided at the edge ofthe folding leg To protect the smaller spring from overstretching this procedure should be done whenever the beam is turned in this direction Using this method you can easily reduce the tension without having to readjust your tension each time you have to back up the warp On the back ofthe loom set a tracking system that will allow the tension box to travel from one section to another The tension box is fastened to the tracking system with wing nuts These can be released for the tension box to move Once centered properly for a particular section the tension box needs to be tightened again for each section Page W 11 WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM Tension Box The tension box is an essential warping tool which a Putsthreads under tension b Spreads threads to the proper width c Makes thread by thread lease Tension Box ve Heddle Ifthis is your first time to use a tension box you need to install heddles on the Instruction harnesses Your tension box is delivered with one bundle of one hundred heddles These are held together with twist ties Leave these o
67. ert four 5 16 x 3 1 4 hex bolts into the corre sponding holes and secure the lower front to the side frames with the square nuts Now bring the loom back up to a standing position Removing Rods and Blocks Look at your Lower Front and notice that mounted to the top face of this part are three wooden mounting blocks two 3 8 rods and two stop collars Remove all three blocks and separate them from the rods Notice that on all three blocks the rod hole is off set slightly away from the lower front Remember to reassemble them the same way Now loosen the stop collars with an allen wrench and remove them Attaching the Treadles Locate your treadles There are two treadles one shorter than the other Kneeling over the lower front orient them so that the longer one is on the left and the pins are facing away from each other Now pick up the rod that you took out of the left side of the lower front Slip the rod through the horizontal hole at the end of the left treadle making sure the stop collar is to the outside ofthe treadle Insert the left end ofthe same rod into the rod hole in the far left mounting block Okay now repeat the steps above for the right side Slip the right rod through the hole in the right treadle making sure the stop collar is to the outside ofthe treadle Insert the right end ofthe rod into the far right mounting block Now insert the inside ends of both rods into the rod holes in the center mounting block
68. fe of your loom and preserve its operation is tighten the bolts that hold its frame together These will loosen over time due to changes in its environment and to your own creative exertions A loom which is allowed to become loose jointed will certainly cost you weaving time perhaps affect the quality of your work and definitely become older than its years 2 Lubrication and Cleaning There are several mechanisms on your loom which will benefit from the occasional light application of an appropriate lubricant Not all lubricants are suitable in the weaving environment Machine oils and greases for example may provide plenty of slick but they also capture yarn dust and will over time actually impede the action of your loom Lubrication and Shuttles Shuttle Race Single Box Flyshuttle Picker Grooves Slide Rods double box pickers bobbin winder Steel Wool Axles pulleys spring levers overhead beater Silicon Spray Warp Beam Metal Rods where metal works against the wood Paraffin frame Warp Beam Brake Drum Sandpaper 3 Cleaning a Filter Unless you have an AVL Air Shuttle or other pneumatic accessory you will have only one filter on your loom and then only if you have a Compu Dobby This is the fan filter and it performs two functions it cools the unit and it removes dust from the air before it is drawn into the fan a Compu Dobbies I The filter is easily overlooked on our early generation Compu Dobbies beca
69. for the previous pick but only in the last fraction of its stroke So if you seem to be experiencing harness lifting problems your use of the Left Treadle is the first thing to suspect Page W 58
70. handle in the direction the shuttle is to travel Beat the fell of cloth with the hand that is on the beater Keep the body relaxed and do not waste energy by moving your body back wards Now close the shed e Start the sequence again by opening the shed and throwing the shuttle to the opposite side but be sure not to change hand positions Eventually it should all become one smooth flowing movement Your body should stay straight and comfortable with no strain as light movements of the hands wrists and feet are used to operate the loom Your eyes and attention should be focused on the fabric being woven constantly on the lookout for flaws so that they can be corrected immediately Double Box Starting a New Bobbin WEAVING PROCEDURES Here is a good way to progress in learning to use the flyshuttle beater more efficiently Six steps progress e beater back open shed press right treadle throw shuttle shuttle stops close shed release right treadle and press the left one e beater forward After you feel comfortable with these move on to the following four step progression beater back and open shed at the same time throw shuttle shuttle stops beater forward and shed closed at the same time With the double box beater you pull straight down on the handle Your body should be erect and relaxed Move only your hand and wrist You will soon get a feel for the correct wrist movem
71. he beam tight The idea of this method is that the warp does not need to be under tension all the time but the part that is on the beam has to be tight Make another turn go to the back of the loom and jerk all the sections again and so on If you have a wide warp you might need to do up to ten jerking motions after each turn When you come to the end of your warp insert lease sticks in your thread ing cross Now remove the ties from each individual threading cross and spread the warp out on the sticks When the warping is completed free the warp from the raddle If you have an AVL raddle first untie the security strings lift the raddle top off and remove the warp from the raddle Afterwards replace the top on the raddle and leave it in its place on the back of the loom if so desired as it will not interfere with the weaving process Then be sure to bring the end of the warp around the separation roller so that it now travels into the loom There will be times when you will want to use more than one warp which can not be put together on one beam When winding the second beam wind it in exactly the same manner as the first warp beam except if you put a second beam in the top position the warp goes under the second warp beam separation roller and up to the top warp beam There will be times when you will want to use more than one warp which can not be put together on one beam WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM SECTION THROUGH LOOM ROU
72. he top and facing the shuttlerace The bolts should be inserted from the front of the shuttlerace so that the washer and wing nuts will end up to the rear ofthe assembly Before tightening the wing nuts install the bottom edge of your reed in the void created by the slot in the reed support and shuttlerace Center the reed between the two legs and tighten down the six carriage bolts There is a slot along the underneath side of the beater top which slides over the top edge of the reed Push the beater top down on the top of the reed Insert a 1 4 x 2 1 4 carriage bolt through the hole near each end of the beater top and through the slot at the top of each leg Tighten each end down with a washer and wing nut Now making certain that the beater assembly is centered on the loom securely tighten the carriage bolts that attach the legs to the shuttlerace Watch the heads of these bolts as you tighten them The square portion of the head should be drawn into the wood but the rounded part of the bolt head should stay above the surface of the wood Single Box Flyshuttle BEATER ASSEMBLIES Locate the shuttle race beater top two legs two flystring supports hard Beater Optional Equipment ware string tie up and reed support see Figure 18 Pick up the race and orient it so that the lengthwise groove is facing toward the rear ofthe loom and the shorter flyshuttle box sides are towards the front Now lay the race across the loom in the ap
73. he warp must be moved forward before the tension is set Once the correct tension adjustment is made however it will be maintained automatically as the weaving is ad vanced You will find that you can weave with less warp tension with an automatic tension system than with a conventional ratchet system Reversing the Warp In making these adjustments at times the warp will be wound too far for ward To wind it back on the warp beam first unlock the front ratchet handle so that the front tension is released then go to the back of the loom and turn the warp beam handle in the direction used to wind the beam Re member that EVERY time you are winding any material onto either warp beam you should reduce the amount of tension within the tension system This can be done quickly by removing the steel ring at the end of the ten sion cord from its operating position and temporarily hooking it on the nearby screw provided on the edge of the folding leg Ifthe tension isn t loosened the small spring may become stretched out of shape If this happens warp tension problems will result After winding the warp back onto the warp beam check to make sure the cord has not become crossed on the drum Wind the warp forward again with the front ratchet handle until the warp tightens and is in the correct position Page W 51 LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING TABLE 2 TENSION A Your Warp Beam just 1 Your Tension Tie Up won t hold tension
74. here are also sixteen cables There should be one cable in each slot If there isn t carefully rearrange them so that the first cable is inside the first finger slot etc Now that there is some tension on the harness cables the Dobby Arm can be aligned with the Dobby Cables see Figure 8 ALIGNING THE DOBBY ARM LOOSEN NUTS amp ADJUST DOBBY ARM IN DIRECTLON OF ARROW SO THAT CABLES RUN EXACTLY VERTICAL THROUGH SLOTS CABLES V LITT A DOBBY ARM DOBBY ARM ALIGNMENT FIGURE 8 Loosen the two bolts that attach the Dobby Arm to the top right horizontal just enough so that the Dobby Arm can be shifted back and forth slightly by tapping on it with the side of your fist Lift the right end of the Dobby Arm up so that it touches the rubber bumper in the top of the slot in the right side of the Dobby Head Now look inside your Dobby Head so that you can see the Dobby Arm straight on Notice that attached to the Dobby Arm is a black metal piece with sixteen slots cut into it What you have to do here is align the Dobby Arm so that the slots line up exactly with the Dobby cables The Dobby won t work properly unless this alignment is absolutely perfect so position yourself directly in front of cable number 1 Now while con tinuing to hold the Dobby Arm up against the bumper with your right hand tap the other end of the Dobby Arm with your left hand and sight down the number 1 cable and slot until perfect alignment is ach
75. hese two rollers are identical we have given each of them the same name that is 26 Drop the upper cloth roller 26 into the slotted brackets see Figure 12 for placement Then pick up the lower cloth roller 26 and slip one end into its pinned slot Pull the pin out of the other bracket drop the roller in replace the pin and you ve done it Cloth Storage Drum Locate the cloth storage drum 29 it s a drum with white dacron cord wrapped around it see Figure 10 ASSEMBLY RETENTION e PIN HOLE CLOTH STORAGE DRUM Figure 10 Take off the washer and nut and pull the bolt out of the assembly Now keeping the washer next to the head of the bolt insert the bolt through the corresponding hole located about 18 up from the bottom edge of the right folding leg from the outside of the loom Slip a washer on from the inside Installing the Standard Plain Beam Installing the Second Plain Beam Optional Equipment Sectional Beam Optional Equipment INSTALLING BEAMS AND ROLLERS Now slide the wooden drum with the flat face toward the side frame onto the bolt making sure that the metal bushing stays in place in the center hole of the drum Add another washer the hex nut and tighten down C Cloth Storage Roller Locate the Cloth Storage Roller 28 It has a pin sticking out one end and a notch cut out of the other end Line the notch up with the pin on the small wooden knob located on the inside of the
76. ieved Page A 19 ALIGNING THE DOBBY ARM TREADLE TIE UP Left Treadle Page A 20 Now re tighten the Dobby Arm attaching bolts Check to see that the alignment is still perfect Move the Dobby Arm up and down in the slot to be certain it doesn t bind If it does you ll need to loosen the two bolts again put a paper shim in between the Dobby Arm support and the top right horizontal realign the Dobby Arm with the cables and tighten down the bolts If after you ve tightened the bolts the alignment is perfect and the Dobby Arm doesn t rub or bind on the sides of the slots in the Dobby Box then tighten the nuts down tight enough so that you re certain they won t slip There are two cables coming out of the bottom of the Dobby Head Take the longest one and run it down to and under the groove of the pulley nearest to the rear of the loom in the Dobby Cam and Pulley Assembly see Figure 9 Continue by routing the cable over and down the far left treadle pulley in the Treadle Pulley Assembly as shown Notice the bolt that goes through the left treadle Remove the nut and pull the bolt far enough out of the hole so that you can insert the loop at the end of the treadle cable around the bolt inside of the access hole Do this then push the bolt back into its hole Replace and tighten the nut With the treadle hanging the cable should be coming straight up from the bolt and over the left side ofthe left pulley TREADLE CABLE ROUTING
77. ion of the flyshuttle If the weft thread does not come smoothly off the bobbin if the shuttle jerks and pulls the selvage edge too tightly or if the shuttle fails to move lightly across the shuttle race look to an improperly wound bobbin as the cause of your troubles If a bobbin is not working properly do not waste time trying to correct it There is nothing you can do about it Place it aside and use another bobbin Page W 36 Placing Bobbin in the Shuttle Feeding the Shuttle with Standard Tensioner Adjusting the Tension Feeding the Thick Yarn Shuttle Adjusting the Tension To Remove or to Change the Reed Using the Flyshuttle Beater WEAVING PROCEDURES Now pull up the metal rod in the middle of the shuttle and slip the large end of the bobbin onto it it might be a little stiff at first and then push the bobbin all the way down to the end of the rod so that the groove in the end ofthe bobbin straddles the retaining pin in the bottom ofthe shuttle Uncoil some thread from the front end of the bobbin and push it down between the two metal plates of the tensioning device Slip it down the groove that runs toward the point ofthe shuttle and out the hole in the side The tension device on the shuttle can be adjusted by turning the screws inside the holes on each side ofthe shuttle with the screwdriver provided For fine yarns which need a tighter tension turn the screws so that the metal plates are tight against each other
78. is also perfectly centered and can be left in place while weaving Locate your tension box track tension box support arms legs and hard ware refer to Figure 24 during assembly Insert the four 1 4 x 2 1 4 carriage bolts into the vacant through holes beneath the separation rollers in the folding leg from the inside Now mount the rounded end of the tension box track arms onto these bolts with the squared off end protruding out away from the loom Make sure these are mounted to the outside of the folding legs and secure with washers and wing nuts Next connect the tension box support arms to the tension box legs using the 1 4 x 2 carriage bolts provided making sure the arms are to the inside of the legs and the wing nuts are facing outward Mount the tension box track onto the legs Orient the track so that the groove is facing up four hex bolts through the holes in the tension box track and down through the legs Secure with square nuts Mount the tension box to the track by first removing the wing nuts washers and clamp block located on the underside of the assembly Place the tension box on the track so that the track runner on the bottom of the tension box fits into the slot in the track Be certain that the heddles and harness assem bly are facing toward the loom Replace the clamp block washers and wing nuts and you re all done NOTE To remove the tension box assembly you ve only to remove the four wing nuts fast
79. l orak BE ED ALIJE TALE TENG TOM PES OF e if STA Ooooo eee RISD TION OF 55 vw TH MEDIUM TERE ICH TENSION BOX FIGURE 30 Threading the The best way to thread the tension box is to take one thread from the cone Tension Box rack and thread it all the way through all the parts of the tension box then the next thread all the way through It works best to use the threads from the rack in a vertical order rather than a horizontal order Now let s go through the sequence for threading the tension box First move the two adjustable tension pegs up above the stationary pegs as shown in Figure 7W or remove them completely Now sley the thread through the rear stationary reed section using a sley hook Since this reed is eight dents per inch you will divide the E P I into eight to find out how many ends will be in each dent with sixteen E P I put two ends in a sec tion If your E P I does not divide equally by eight you can either vary the number of ends in each dent with twenty E P I alternate two and three ends in the dents or thread the dents a little wider than two inches with twenty E P I put two ends in each dent with forty ends the reed will be sleyed 2 1 2 wide Page W 13 WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM Winding the Warp Page W 14 Next bring the thread straight through the tension peg section in between the larger adjustable te
80. large end over the bearing being sure to have the eyebolt facing toward the outside ofthe loom Now reassemble the washer and nut to the bolt and tighten the nut securely Foot Lever Release Locate your metal foot lever release assembly Remove the first nut and washer on the attached bolt Now go to the side of the loom that you are working on if you are not indeed already there Locate the hole situated at a point 14 1 2 up from the bottom ofthe castle side Into this hole from the inside slip the bolt belonging to the foot lever release assembly Now put on the washer and nut and tighten securely Tension Cable Part 2 A Right Side Assemblies Locate your nylon coated tension cable Hook one end of the spring to the rearmost bolt of the tension bracket Now bring the cable up to the back of the warp beam drum and wrap it in a counter clockwise direction around the drum The cable should wrap two and a half times around the drum and come off from the top towards the front of the loom Make sure that the wraps don t cross over each other Left Side Assemblies Locate your nylon coated tension cable Hook one end of the spring to the frontmost bolt of the tension bracket Now bring the cable down to the front of the warp beam drum and wrap it in a clockwise direction for three full wraps It is important that the wraps start at the outside side of the drum and that they are not crossed over each other Use LOCKING BRAKE SYSTEM
81. le Retainers Routing the Cables Page A 14 Locate the bag labeled Harness Cables Unwrap and separate one from the rest Hold it up and stretch it out You ll see that there is a clip at one end and a loop at each of the other two ends Hold the cable up by this clip so that the two loop ends are hanging down The shorter end will support the right side of a harness and the longer end will support the left side of the same harness Look at the cables coming out of the top of the Dobby Head Since the cable farthest to the left closest to the front of the loom corresponds to the first harness and the cable farthest to the right closest to the back ofthe loom corresponds to the last or sixteenth harness we will refer to the cables as number 1 through number 16 from now on Now attach the clip you are holding to the loop at the end of cable number 1 in the Dobby Head To spread the clip simply press the two sides together and slip the cable loop toward the other side until it is free to move inside the clip and the clip sides are together again Repeat this process for the remaining fifteen harness cables Mounted on top of the harness pulley supports are two wooden cross bars with felt on their undersides Loosen these until there is about 1 4 between the felt and the pulleys Take hold of the number 1 harness cable and route it over the pulley directly above it Now bring that same cable both ends over the number 1 pulley under
82. leshooting W 49 1 Harnesses W 49 2 Tension W 50 Tension Device W 50 Adjusting the Tension W 51 Reversing the Warp W 51 3 Cloth Storage System W 54 4 A Shed W 56 5 Beaters and Flyshuttles W 57 6 Dobby W 58 7 Left Treadle Issues W 58 FIGURE INDEX Page Figure 1 16 Harness Folding Dobby Loom A 3 Figure 2 Nut Access Hole A 6 Figure 3 Unfolding the Loom 9 Figure 4 Dobby Cam 11 Figure 5 Dobby Head A 13 Figure 6 Harness Assembly A 16 Figure 7 Cutting Heddles A 17 Figure 8 Dobby Arm Alignment A 19 Figure 9 Treadle Cable Routing A 20 Figure 10 Cloth Storage Drum A 22 Figure 12 Beams and Rollers Rear View A 24 Figure 13 Cloth Take Up Drum A 26 Figure 14 Routing of Cloth Storage String A 27 Figure 15 Tension System Upper Beam A 28 Figure 16 Tension System Lower Beam A 29 Figure 17 Standard Beater Support A 30 Figure 18 Single Box Flyshuttle Beater A 31 Figure 19 Attaching Flystring Supports A 34 Figure 20 Single Box Flystring Tie Up A 35 Figure 21 Bottom Swing Double Box Flyshuttle Beater A 37 Figure 22 Upper Pulley Assembly Front View 41 Figure 23 Backplate Assembly Rear View A 42 Figure 24 Tension Box Assembly A 45 Figure 25 Warp on Warping Board with Two Crosses W 1 Figure 26 Threading the Raddle W 3 Figure 27 Prepared Paper with Folding Edge W 4 Figure 28 Winding on the Warp W 5 Figure 29 Routing the Warp W 7 Figure 30 Tension Box W 13 Figure 31 Adjusting the Size ofthe Section W 15 Figure 32 Creating Flat Layers
83. masking tape Then wind the apron once around so that it holds itself in place Route the apron through the loom to meet the warp ends This is done by bringing the free end of the apron over the treadle pulley assembly and around the bottom and front end of the lower cloth roller Now up and around the upper cloth roller Bring it up to and around the front of the cloth beam Spread it out flat and center it over the cloth beam and insert the metal rod into the hem Wrapping the Warp around the Sandpaper Cloth Beam THREADING SLEYING AND TYING ON Now tie the ends to the metal rod Starting from the middle bring a first bundle toward you over the apron rod then around and under it Divide it in half and bring one half up on each side of the bundle Use the ends to tie a surgeon s knot Itis the same as the first tie you make tying a shoelace except you loop the end through twice This kind of knot is very good for readjusting the tension TYING ONTO THE APRON FIGURE 35 Start with one section in the middle then the far right and the far left outside ones Work your way in By now the sections that were tied first are quite a bit looser than the ones tied last To correct this you do not need to untie the knots simply grasp the ends and pull them away from you then re tighten the knots Repeat this until all of the section are at approximately the same tension Shortcut Method You can skip using an apron altogether if you ar
84. ment with the shuttle race Adjust the bottom screw so that when the boxes are all the way down the upper box is in precise vertical alignment with the shuttle race This adjustment is critical please make it carefully It is wise to lay a straight edge across the shuttle race and drop box shelf when doing this to assist you in getting the two perfectly aligned When you have it properly adjusted secure the locknuts on the brass screws Do these adjustments on both the left and right drop boxes In the future if your shuttle flight is erratic re check these adjustments Page A 41 BEATER ASSEMBLIES To make sure that the adjustment screws stay in place you might want to purchase a small tube of a thread locking agent such as Loctite or even fingernail polish and apply a drop or two to each of these screws where they go into the cast metal brackets I The final step is to attach the cable from the drop boxes to the Shift Handle and adjust the cable lengths On each side there is a cable attached to the drop box which has an eyebolt on the end This cable is routed over the top of the Drop Box Pulley see Figure 23 and the eyebolt threads into the turnbuckle on the end of the cable coming from the Shift Handle REAR VIEW P DROP BOX PULLEY ADJUSTMENT SCREW FOR LOWER BOX BACK PLATE SHIFT CABLE w Cl amp FLYSTRING CORD s ELASTIC BEATER LEG RETURN m din FELT BUMPERS ADJUSTMENT SCREW FOR
85. n A 18 Realigning the Dobby Cables A 18 TABLE OF CONTENTS Weaving Section Aligning the Dobby Arm Treadle Tie Up Left Treadle Treadle Tie Up Right Treadle Cable with Turnbuckle Adjusting the Turnbuckle Installing Beams and Rollers Rear Cloth Storage System Rollers A Upper and Lower Rollers B Cloth Storage Drum Cloth Storage Roller Installing the Standard Plain Beam Installing the Second Plain Beam Optional Equipment Sectional Beam Optional Equipment Warp Beam Handle Installing the Cloth Beam A Removing the Vertical Cap Assembly and Routing of the Cloth Storage System Tensioning the Beams Tensioning the Upper Beam Tensioning the Lower Beam Beater Assemblies Standard Beater Single Box Flyshuttle Beater Optional Equipment Double Box Flyshuttle Beater Optional Equipment Multiple Box Flystring Tie Up Assembly Side Pull Flystring Tie Up Vertical Pull Flystring Tie Up Raddle Tension Box Raddle Optional Equipment Tension Box Optional Equipment Weaving Instruction Warping the Plain Beam Preface Warping the Plain Beam Creating Two Crosses Securing the Crosses Removing the Warp for the Warping Board Attaching the Raddle Winding the Apron Attaching the Warp to the Apron Sticks in the Raddle Cross Feeding the Raddle Preparing the Paper Winding the Warp Threading Cross A 19 A 20 21 21 21 21 22 22 22 22 23 23 23 23 24
86. n for now Refer to Figure 7W to familiarize yourself with the tension box and its parts Push down on one of the harnesses until it stops This causes the other harness to go up You will use that later for making a threading cross Right now we ll need to use it to help in the assembly ofthe heddles to the harnesses a Remove the heddle retainer of the harness that is up using a phillips head screwdriver b Notice there are four twist ties holding the heddles together Separate the top two Insert the top bar of the harness that 1s up into the space created by pulling apart the twist ties Insert the bottom bar ofthe harness that is up into the space created by pulling apart the bottom two twist ties making certain that the heddles aren t twisted Now remove the twist ties Count off fifty heddles and cut the loop at the top between the 50th and the 51st heddle Now put the four twist ties back on the fifty heddles that were the last to go on the harness Remove these fifty and reattach the heddle retainer Now push down on the harness that is up making the other harness come up Remove the heddle retainer Pull apart the top two twist ties and insert the top of the harness which is up into the space created Pull apart the bottom two twist ties and insert the bottom ofthe harness into the space created Reattach the heddle retainer Page W 12 WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM HAP ES ITSHEDDIES 5 i
87. nal Beam Second Plain Beam Raddle Single and Double Box Beaters You need only read the sections for the options you have ordered Page A 1 PARTS LIST Page A 2 Part Number IR IL 2R 2L 3R 3L 4R 4L 5R SL 6R 6L 7R TL SR 8L 9 10 11 12 I3R I3L 14 15 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 Right Cloth Beam Vertical Left Cloth Beam Vertical Right Upright Left Upright Right Castle Side Left Castle Side Right Upper Horizontal Left Upper Horizontal Right Middle Horizontal Left Middle Horizontal Right Lower Horizontal or Foot Left Lower Horizontal or Foot Right Folding Leg Left Folding Leg Right Support Arm Left Support Arm Lower Front Harness Pulley Support Assembly Spring Lever Assembly Treadle Pulley Assembly Right Treadle Pulley not shown Left Treadle Pulley not shown Vertical Cap not shown Folding Leg Stiffner Harness Assembly not shown Dobby Head Dobby Arm Dobby Cam and Pulley Assembly Cable Turn Buckle not shown Dobby Arm Support Warp Beam standard Cloth Beam Cloth Beam Advance Handle Upper and Lower Cloth Roller Rear Cloth Storage Roller not shown Cloth Storage Drum Cloth Take Up Drum Cloth Take Up Pulley only one shown Counter Weight Pulley Counter Weight Beater Supports 16 HARNESS FOLDING DOBBY LOOM FIGURE 1 Page A 3 LOOM ORIENTATION ASSEMBLY Tools Needed for Assembly LOOM ASSEMB
88. nches using the front ratchet handle and feel your warp for tension If it is too loose increase tension by pulling the two ends of the adjusting cord attached to the small upper spring Ifthe warp tension is too tight decrease tension by pressing in on the plastic clamp and letting the adjusting cord out Then move the warp forward another three or four inches and check again to see if the tension is what you want Continue this process until the desired tension is achieved Notice that each time a new tension adjustment is made the warp must be moved forward before the tension is set Once the correct tension adjust ment is made however it will be maintained automatically as the weaving is advanced You will find that you can weave with less warp tension with an automatic tension system than with a conventional ratchet system In making these adjustments at times the warp will be wound too far forward To wind it back on the warp beam first unlock the front ratchet handle so that the front tension is released then go to the back of the loom and turn the warp beam handle in the direction used to wind the beam Remember that EVERY time you are winding any material onto either warp beam you should reduce the amount of tension within the tension system This can be done quickly by removing the steel ring at the end of the tension cord from its operating position and temporarily hooking it on the nearby screw provided on the edge of the folding leg
89. ng knot at the loop on the free end ofthis spring Where you tie this knot in relation to the end of the cord will determine the operating height ofthe Flystring Handle which you will attach in a moment If you tie the knot very near to the end of the cord the handle will be at its lowest possible position Ifit went much lower the Flystring Handle could collide with the Shift Handle or Beater Top when it reached the bottom of its throw We suggest that you try this position first as a lower handle position will generally be less fatiguing Now go back up to the Upper Pulley assembly where the cord passed over both ofthe pulleys You now want to route the cord down between the two pulleys taking up all ofthe slack and forming a large loop at the center ofthe loom Locate the Flyshuttle Handle It is a small dark colored piece of wood with a hole and a brass pin through the center of it Form a tight loop at the center of the cord that is now hanging below the Upper Pulley Assembly Feed the loop down from the top of the handle through the hole on either side of the brass pin that divides the hole Now feed the loop back through the hole on the other side of the brass pin Now form a larger loop 6 or so and run it back over either end ofthe handle To do this you actually put the handle through this loop and bring the string of the loop all the way back up to the top of the handle Now pull straight down on the handle tightening the cord
90. nough so that the beater support is still allowed to pivot Now remove the two screws located in the top edge of the lower horizontal Position the metal bracket that s attached to the wing nut bolt over the two holes and reinsert the screws Tighten them down Repeat this process for the left side Locate the race beater top two legs reed and hardware Now pick up the race and orient it so that the lengthwise groove is facing towards the rear of the loom and so that the groove is closest to the top ofthe race The bottom of the reed will go in this groove shortly Lay the race across the loom in the approximate position it will be in when in use Now empty your hard ware bag onto a table top Pick up the four 1 4 x 2 1 2 carriage bolts with washers and hex nuts Now take your beater legs and position them so that the leg with a series of several holes near the bottom is on the left side of the loom and the slot at the narrow end of the leg is riding in the center pin on the beater support Insert the bolts from the front of the race through the race and into the corresponding holes in the beater leg Attach washers and nuts and tighten slightly Repeat this procedure for the other side of the loom Now locate the reed support It is a long thin wooden part with six holes in it and a slot similar to the one in the shuttlerace Using six 1 4 x 3 1 4 carriage bolts attach the reed support to the back of the shuttlerace with the slot to t
91. nsion pegs and the smaller stationary pegs or just above the smaller stationary pegs if you have removed the larger ones Next thread the end through the two sets of heddles The first thread goes through the front set of heddles and the next thread goes through the rear set of heddles Repeat this alternating heddle threading for the rest of the ends The heddle system will be used later to create the threading cross Now thread the end through the front pivoting reed Here you have a choice of using an eight dent or ten dent reed Pick the one that can be sleyed evenly and as close to the desired section width If you can not get the exact width of the section sley your reed slightly wider This will make it just slightly wider than the space between the pegs The section will be narrowed down by pivoting the reed Never sley the reed narrower than the section on the beam There is no way to expand it After the tension box is completely threaded the larger pegs are moved downward to apply tension The further down they are moved the more tension will be applied to the yarn This is an adjustable system as different yarns require more or less tension With a heavy wool the pegs may only need to be moved half way down whereas with a fine silk the pegs may need to be moved all the way down and the yarn wrapped an extra time around one of the stationary pegs to get the proper tension Once you have adjusted the tension correctly do not change it
92. nsion purposes only Make a few winds of the thread over itself at the far end of the bobbin the end near the large coned shaped part and then place it on the winder To start wind a thin layer going back and forth in one area about 2 long at this far end It should cover three quarters of the cone shaped part of the bobbin Consider this the first layer of thread Then move down 1 4 and start a new layer which will overlap 1 3 4 of the last layer For each layer wind the thread tightly and quickly back and forth covering a 2 area until that layer is complete Then move down 1 4 and start a new layer which will overlap 1 3 4 ofthe last layer Keep repeating these tapered overlapping 2 layers until there is 1 2 left at the end ofthe bobbin You will soon learn when each layer is complete Ifthe layers are too fat the bobbin won t fit into the shuttle If they are too thin you won t get as much thread on the bobbin and it will have to be changed sooner The AVL Bobbin Winding Guide BWG can help you to create a perfect size package It will allow you to get as much yarn as possible on the bobbin but it will not touch the side of the shuttle One critical element in winding a bobbin is to maintain a uniform diameter of yarn around the bobbin The AVL Bobbin Winding Guide should be used with a Bobbin Winder equipped with a foot switch because the guide should be held with one hand while the other moves the yarn back and forth Fir
93. nsion the warp and your shed is not even or not large enough 1 Your heddles are bunched together towards the center of the harness or on one side only This is a problem because the heddles are part of the harness structure 2 The harness cable supporting the shaft has come out of its pulleys at the top of the loom 1 The tension in your warp is greater than the tension in the springs that hold the harnesess down Move a few heddles to each end of your harness sticks just to the inside of the harness wires that connect the top and bottom sticks That way your harnesses will be balanced Trace the cable back through its pulleys in the Harness Pulley Support and make sure that the cable is properly seated Check the action of the Dobby Cable as well Make sure that it moves easily up and down If the Dobby Cable seems to bind check for debris in the hole where it comes through the Dobby Top You may need to use a very thin piece of wire to dislodge accumulated yarn dust or other debris Take up a link or two in the chain that spans the Harness Spring Levers for that particular harness Check the result and take up more links if you feel you need more hold down tension Do not try to make all chains the same size The size will depend on how much tension is required for each harness depending again on the number of threads going through that harness Page W 49 LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING TABL
94. om These connecting loops can be cut to make threading easier This will neither weaken nor unravel the heddles see Figure 7 HARNESS ASSEMBLY CUTTING THE HEDDLES APART FIGURE 7 Another hint to make threading easier while you have your heddles spread out between two harnesses mark above the eye of each one with a colored pen For instance you may use four colors of pen and mark the eyes on the heddles of harness 16 with purple the eyes of harness 15 with red the eyes of harness 14 with blue and the eyes of harness 713 with orange Harness 12 s code color will be purple harness 11 code color red and so on This makes it easier to tell which heddle belongs to which harness and helps to lessen the chance of threading errors Now pick up your single harness assembly by the top harness the one farthest away from you on the table Bring it over to your loom and hook up your last harness cables the ones closest to the back of the loom to the eyelets in the harness stick There you ve completed one harness now the rest should be easy Page A 17 HARNESS ASSEMBLY Spring Installation see Figure 6 Attaching the Spring Lever Chain Realigning the Dobby Cables Page A 18 Repeat the steps above for each harness assembly Always have the top harness stick be the one furthest away from you on the table with the eyelets facing away Remember to keep the bottom harness sticks in order The ones go toward
95. one hole at each end and a nut access hole near each end Now being careful not to dislodge the roller s from their posi tions mount the stiffner between the legs using 5 16 x 3 1 4 hex bolts and square nuts Be certain the nut access holes are facing down Use the through holes that are nearest to the rollers Holding on to the stiffner lift this assembly up and secure in the weaving position by attaching the sup port arms to the lower black knobs see Figure 3 Locate the Harness Pulley Support 710 This assembly has three rows of sixteen sheaves between two long cross members Orient it so that the AVL name plate is to the front Using 5 16 x 8 1 2 hex bolts washers and hex nuts remember that you ll need washers under the hex bolts and the hex nuts attach the harness pulley support assembly to the side frame as shown in Figure 1 leaving the hex nuts loose for now especially the ones on the right side ofthe loom JOINING SIDE FRAMES Locate the Dobby Orient it so that is matches the drawing Using the allen wrench that came Cam Assembly see with the cross member hardware package loosen the stop collar and re Figure 4 move it from the axle and remove the axle from the cam and cylinder and pulley These parts are going to be placed between the Right Castle and the Front Side Support When putting this axle onto the loom be certain that you insert it through the ower set of horizontal holes The loom will not function prope
96. ont Harness Pulley Support just underneath the AVL nameplate refer to Figure 20 HANDLE HOOK FLYSTRING SUPPORTS FLYSTRING a HANDLE TIE UP Li X K SINGLE BOX FLYSTRING TIE UP FIGURE 20 Take the string tie up and handle from its bag As you can see there are three screweyes coming out of the handle one at the top and two at the sides Hold the handle up by the screweye at the top of the handle This screweye connects the flyshuttle handle to the hook that you just attached to the front harness pulley support This hook gives you a handy place to park your flyshuttle handle when the loom is not in use At this point there are two pickers hanging below the handle the pickers are the small wooden pieces with leather loops on them Take the one to the right and orient it so that the leather loop is toward the bottom now take it to the very outside of the race on the right side Slide the picker with the leather loop down and toward the outside into the slots between the box sides Page A 35 BEATER ASSEMBLIES Double Box Flyshuttle Beater Optional Equipment Page A 36 Now the clip at the end of the cord on the right side of the tie up and attach it to the screweye on the bottom of the right flystring support that you recently installed Pick up the left picker and with the leather loop down and toward the outside slide it into the grooves in the box sides from the very outside of the race At
97. ow we re ready to thread the loom If you are right handed it is recom Harnesses mended to start at the right side of the warp Grasp one group of ends in your left hand and your sley hook in your right hand Direct the hook end of the sley hook through the eye of the first heddle you need to thread Pull the thread through for example if you had a straight draft on eight harnesses your first thread would go through the eye of a heddle on the 8th harness The second thread would be threaded through the eye of the heddle on the 7th harness the third thread through the 6th harness and so on Page W 19 THREADING SLEYING AND TYING ON Unused Heddles Sleying the Reed Tying on to the Apron Page W 20 After threading is complete make sure that the unused heddles are all pushed to the far sides of the harness sticks between the screw eyes and the ends ofthe harness sticks For balance there should be approximately equal numbered groups of unused heddles on both sides of each harness This is especially the case if you have PES heddles In some cases such as a very wide warp with a lot of unused heddles on the ends of the harnesses you may need to tie each group of unused heddles into a tight bundle with tie tapes or string to keep them from falling off the ends of the harness sticks or you may need to take heddles off the loom In the first six months of using a new loom with polyester heddles the heddles stretch out to adjus
98. proximate position it will be in when in use Empty your hardware bag on a table top Separate the 5 16 x 3 carriage bolts washers and hex bolts Look at your beater legs They are identified as to left and right by a stamp Also the left leg has a series of holes near its narrow end Pick up the right leg and bring it to the right side of the loom Orient it so that the cut out section is toward the front of the loom and the tapered side ofthe leg to the outside Position the notch located at the bottom end of the leg over the center pin in the beater support Now attach the race to the leg using two of the 5 16 x 3 carriage bolts Slip on the washers and nuts and attach loosely Repeat the procedure above for the left side making sure the tapered side of the beater leg faces away from the loom Push the six 1 4 carriage bolts through the race so that their heads sit flat on the front ofthe beater race Now carefully slide the reed support onto the six bolts so that the lengthwise groove in it faces the groove in the race Leave enough room so that you can fit the reed in between the race and the reed support Once the reed is in the washers and wing nuts can be fitted onto the carriage bolts one at a time Start by slipping the washer and wing nut onto one of the center most bolts Once this is fairly secure do the same for the right side then the left Assemble the remaining bolts and tighten them well as a perfectly straight and se
99. ps can be attached to each end of the cloth beam axle with the mounting screw after the beam has been placed in the loom Their purpose is to limit the amount that the two Cloth Beam Verticals can spread apart Since this is not all that common of an occurrence you may not find them necessary It is suggested that you do use them if you use a locking brake or when you place your warp under high tension Page A 25 INSTALLING BEAMS AND ROLLERS CLOTH BEAM HANDLE RIGHT VERTICAL H BEAM SUPPORT SET SCREW RATCHET pad __ RATCH T CLOTH TAKE UP DRUM amp HANDLE CLOTH TAKE UP DRUM FIGURE 13 Locate the Cloth Take Up Drum Handle Assembly This is a wooden drum with a wooden grip extending out from one face and an aluminum ratchet attached to a shaft extending out from the other face see Figure 13 With the allen wrench provided loosen and remove the metal ratchet from the shaft Keeping one washer on insert the shaft into the hole located in the right cloth beam support from the inside as shown Slip one washer then the ratchet onto the shaft from the outside with the flat face of the ratchet toward the loom Tighten the set screw in the ratchet with the allen wrench onto the flat section of the steel axle leaving enough clearance so that the assembly is free to pivot Page A 26 ASSEMBLY AND ROUTING OF THE CLOTH STORAGE SYSTEM Route the cord from the cloth storage drum around the pulleys as shown by the dotte
100. r roller of the dobby box Turn the roller toward the top ofthe loom so that the chain moves over the top of the roller and into the dobby box Place your fingers in the box under the upper roller and guide the chain so that it comes out over the top of the smaller roller which is underneath This is very important because the dobby chain will jam in the box if it does not come out over the top ofthe smaller roller PEGGING THE DOBBY UNIT When enough chain is available fasten the chain together to form a continu ous circle by removing pegs in the holes 1 and 16 on one side of your chain Overlap the plastic strips and replace the pegs to secure the strips in place You now have a continuous circle of bars If your chain is only eight bars long it will only wrap around the upper roller without touching the lower roller Dol PEGS io OUTWARD THE RAS SIT INTO GROVES TM LIPPER BOLER UPPER Ee LER SURE TO FEED THE CHAIN OF DOBBY BARS OUT OVER THE TOP OF THE LOWES LOWER ROLLE ROLLER STOF iiai FORWARG REVERSE LEVER EH FORWARD POSITION OUTSIDE 5 TOP BRACEET FORWARD REVERSE CORD FEEDING DOBBY CHAIN INTO DOBBY HEAD FIGURE 38 Page W 27 PEGGING THE DOBBY UNIT Creating Chains with More Complex Structures Page W 28 Next you will probably want to peg up another chain with a more complex weave structure a sixteen harness point twill is an easy one to try first The first step is
101. right sides about three feet apart The Treadle Pulley Locate four 5 16 x 3 1 4 hex bolts with washers and square nuts and two Assembly 1 4 x 3 1 4 hex bolts with washers and square nuts Remove the nuts from the bolts Now locate the Treadle Pulley Assembly This assembly consists of two cross members of different thickness with a rod and pulley connecting them Orient it so that the bigger crosspiece is toward the back of the loom toward the floor if you have your loom tipped on its back and so that the stamp bottom front located on the thinner crosspiece is toward the front ofthe loom with the stamp facing the ground facing where the ground will be when the loom gets tipped back up From the outside insert two 5 16 bolts through the appropriate holes in the left side frame see Figure 1 Slide the rear cross member ofthe treadle pulley support over these two bolts and attach the nuts loosely Repeat for the right side tight ening the nuts Now attach the thinner front crosspiece to the side frames using the 1 4 x 3 1 4 hex bolts and nuts The Lower Front A Attaching the Lower Front to the Loom Locate the lower front This is a long wooden bar with metal rods and wooden blocks mounted to the top face With the loom still on its back orient the lower front so that the four nut access holes face away from the loom NUT ACCESS HOLE NUT ACCESS HOLE FIGURE 2 Page A 6 JOINING SIDE FRAMES From the outside ins
102. rking thread and bring it through this shed The two ends of the marking thread should now be together Tie them in a bow knot Wind the rest of the first section on cut the ends and secure to the wound on thread using a rubber band over the pegs Continue winding all the sections in the same manner by moving the tension box along its track When all the winding is complete remove the rubber bands unwind a few feet of warp and slip one lease stick through the path created by the upper portion of each marking tie Now slip another lease stick through the path created by the lower portion of each marking tie Secure the lease sticks together leaving about two inches between them using masking tape or string through the end holes ofthe lease sticks Now bring the lease sticks with the warp ends around the separation rollers If you have a beam in the upper position the warp will be routed under the upper separation roller If you have a beam in the lower position the warp will be routed over the lower separation roller If you are winding a very fine warp say forty ends to the inch or more and do not have or do not want to wind a lot of spools or cones it may be more convenient to wind separate warp sections on a warping board or reel and go from there directly to the sectional beam If you decide to do this however your warp will be limited in length by what will fit on the warping board or reel If you choose this method follow the
103. rly if the upper holes are used Slip the rod through the hole in the Side Support then through the Dobby Cam and Cylinder assembly and on through the Right Castle Side Now slide the separate pulley onto the rod from the right and fit the stop collar back on tightening it while making sure that the pulley can spin freely See This isn t so difficult LEFT TREADLE CABLE AXLE CAP em RIGHT TREADLE SEPARATE CABLE TREADLE PULLEY VERT SUPPORT FRONT BACK DOBBY CAM SHOWN FROM RIGHT SIDE OF LOOM FIGURE 4 Page A 11 JOINING SIDE FRAMES INSTALLATION OF DOBBY HEAD Beater Bumpers Mounting the Dobby Mounting the Dobby Arm Checking the Springs Dobby Arm Stop Pin Page A 12 Locate the Beater Bumper 740 see Figure 1 These are shipped with the side frames Notice that they are labeled R and L The stamp of course identifies right and left Beater Bumpers Mount each to its respective side ofthe loom to the outside orienting them so that the stamp is against the side frame and the bumper is toward the front of the loom Use the 5 16 x 2 1 2 carriage bolts with washer and hex nut Mount the beater bumpers to the rear most holes ofthe middle Horizontal of each Side Frame On the backside of the Dobby Head you will find three bolts with washers and hex nuts attached Remove these washers and nuts making sure you don t unseat the carriage bolt heads Check back to Figure 1 to see where on th
104. s Test the warp again by doing some more treadling and if more spring tension is still needed try one or more chain link less Under unusual conditions perhaps a very tight rug warp two springs on some or all of the harnesses may be necessary Ifall the springs are set the same the back harnesses will have a looser tension than the front This is because the back spring levers and their hooks are longer since the back harnesses travel farther when a shed is made Accordingly in some cases the back spring levers might have to be adjusted shorter to give the same tension as the front ones The important thing to remember is that the system is designed so that it can be fine tuned for each particular warp so experiment with it In general for most medium tensioned warps you will find that adjusting will not be necessary The loom comes with sixteen chains and sixteen springs or twenty four chains and twenty four springs If extra springs are needed you can use 16 screen door springs which can be purchased in almost any hardware store You can also get extra chain there Included in your locking system are the following assemblies and parts 1 wooden foot lever with eyebolt and chain 2 metal foot lever release with bolt four washers two nuts and three S hooks 3 tension adjustment cord with cord clamp and spring 4 onehex bolt with two washers and one hex nut 5 one metal bushing 6 one wooden spacer 7 tension cable
105. s if the new warp introduced into the loom uses the same threading pattern and E P I as the last warp This process is especially good for production weavers as it saves time It also takes less concentration and there is less chance of making mistakes in threading The tying on process starts when you are finishing the last warp on the loom Before you cut off the fabric make sure to leave enough unwoven warp to extend one foot behind the harnesses through the heddles and about six inches past the reed when the beater is in its rear position Now open two opposite tabby sheds and insert the lease sticks into these sheds behind the harnesses Secure the sticks together with tie tapes through the holes THREADING SLEYING AND TYING ON Now carefully cut the fabric from the loom and tie bundles of warp coming through the reed together so the yarn can t slip through Cut the warp in back leaving one foot past the lease sticks and also tie bundles of yarn together for security After winding on the new warp on the beam you can sit on a small stool placed in between the harnesses and the back of the loom and tie corre sponding yarns from the two sets of lease sticks together An overhand or weaver s knot work well This may seem slow at first but you will work up a faster rhythm with some practice A good goal to reach would be to tie 200 to 250 ends together an hour When all ends are tied together go to the front ofthe loom and gently p
106. s and taking special care of which thread from which pair of lease sticks comes next More than Two Warps Separate Tensioning WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM Sectional Beam Calculation Size of the Section WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM If you have more than two warps to set and not more than two beams you need to weight tension your additional warps separately do the same if you only have one beam and more than one warp to set a your warp sections on the warping board and take them off the board in a chain on a kite stick or just in a plastic bag Make sure that each bundle is not too thick You will know when you need to divide each bundle if you feel that all the threads are not being tensioned evenly b The weight needs to have a strong loop of string on it so the warp bundles can be slip knotted into it This makes it easy to undo the slip knot and move the weight when it climbs up to the back beam and must be let down again c Theweight also needs to be adjustable Plastic bottles with handles filled with water are perfect You can also use fishing weights wash ers nuts bolts They are not as easily adjustable like water bottles but take less space The lower to the floor you can hang them the less often you need to reposition them The AVL sectional beam is designed to be warped in sections with the use ofatension box The yarn travels directly from cones or spools which are mounted on a rack behind
107. s loop so visualize your peg plan as circular Check your peg plan to see that if the first shed follows the last shed the weaving pattern will turn out correctly If you make the mistake of making the first shed and the last shed the same two identical sheds will follow each other e There are times you will find it helpful to use blank dobby bars to mark your place in your pattern For instance if you need to know where the beginning of a pattern is leave a blank bar just before the dobby bar corresponding to the first shed ofthe pattern When you are weaving and come to this blank bar no harnesses will raise Keep in mind that the direction the chain moves can be reversed at any time This feature can save pegging time and dobby chain One example of its use is with a pattern where the second half is a mirror image of the first half Only the first half of the pattern need be pegged Then by reversing the dobby unit the second half or mirror image is automatically produced When using this technique you may want to leave a blank bar as a signal at the point at which the dobby is to be reversed See diagram G below for an example of a peg plan using this technique This feature can also be used where long lengths of tabby are to be woven 18 eee ee between pattern borders Simply peg up part of BLANK the tabby and by repeatedly reversing as much IF THE DOREY UNIT IS tabby can be woven as necessary Here again REVERSED
108. se harnesses as we have done in diagram D Continue in this same manner until all the sheds of your treadling plan have been recorded on the peg plan as we have done in diagram E A TIE UP amp TREADLING PLAN B PEG PLAN TREADLES HARNESSES P 12345678 91011213141516 HARNESSES SOL d 3 J d J d 3 E EH LLLI T TREADLINS PLAN j TIE UP AND TREADLING PLAN and B FIGURE 39 Page W 29 PEGGING THE DOBBY UNIT D PES TIE UP AND TRE ADLING PLAN C D and E FIGURE 40 Page W 30 PEGGING THE DOBBY UNIT Diagram F shows the same tie up as in diagram A with a different treadling plan and its corresponding peg plan F TIE UP amp TREAGLING PLAN 123456 78 910111212 41516 6 E Lx RE TIE UP AMD TREADLING PLAN F FIGURE 41 Page W 31 PEGGING THE DOBBY UNIT Here are some additional points to keep in mind when making up your peg plan At least eight dobby bars should be used at once That is the size of our dobby cylinder If the number of dobby bars or sheds in the treadling plan is fewer than eight they should be repeated several times As an example for a tabby weave which has only two sheds repeat the pegging four times so that you will be using eight bars When the dobby chain is placed in the dobby unit it will form a continuou
109. se steps a Calculate number of threads for each section on your sectional beam On the warping board or on the warping reel make baby warps for each section on your beam if you are using a warping board you will be limited in length Make crosses at each end raddle cross on one side and thread by thread cross on the other Page W 17 THREADING SLEYING AND TYING ON Preparation for Threading Page W 18 b the warp off the board or reel by taking off the thread by thread cross first c Put the warp threads from a first baby warp in the raddle making sure that threads are spread evenly and that they are creating flat layers when wound on the beam Put the raddle top on or secure warp threads with rubber bands Instead of a regular raddle you can put a mini raddle in place of the front reed on the tension box In this case the tension box is used only for guiding threads into the sections You do not thread threads in the tension box through the harnesses nor through the back reed and you do not adjust tension with the pegs d Attach each baby warp to the extension cords and proceed as in regular sectional beaming procedure e Since you are not using the tension box for tension be sure to keep it taut manually f When you come close to the end of the section take the reed cover off and continue winding the rest of the baby warp g Secure that section to the beam and continue to the nex
110. st it must be noted that at all the basic principles for winding an end feed bobbin apply to the BWG That is feed the yarn in small increments from the cone end to the small end of the bobbin FEEDING THE BOBBIN WINDIN G GUIDE FIGURE 44 Page W 35 WEAVING PROCEDURES You will begin the winding at the flared cone end Feed the yarn through the BWG s slot and push the guide toward the cone end Keep the slot facing you so that you can observe the yarn as it winds onto the bobbin and make any necessary adjustments Turn the Bobbin Winder on slow at first then up to full speed Swing the yarn from side to side and try to keep as strong tension as possible on the yarn For the most part the tighter the better When holding the BWG with your left hand while winding the bobbin give some resistance to the left Do not attempt to move it to the right side As the yarn builds up on the bobbin it will naturally push the BWG down toward the end The pressure on the BWG should be just enough to keep it in contact with the yarn underneath Be careful not to overwind at the end because it can cause extra loops which can get tangled in the tip of the shuttle You should stop winding when the right side of the BWG reaches the end of the bobbin USING THE BOBBIN WINDING GUIDE FIGURE 45 Wind many bobbins at once so it won t be necessary to stop and wind bobbins while weaving A properly wound bobbin is essential to the correct operat
111. t you can do To members of the two above camps and to all those in between we say stick with it and we are certain you will find this to be a good experience and a great way to get to know your loom Remember if you are at all serious about weaving a thorough knowledge of your equipment is vital So think of this as an opportunity not as a liability The two purposes of this assembly manual are 1 Toassistthe loom owner in assembling and getting to know their loom by providing complete and detailed instructions and drawings 2 Toallow the weaver to enjoy a well cared for and properly function ing loom for many years by providing a care and maintenance sched ule This manual was written to be read and followed from beginning to end Some of the information is quite basic and there are those of you who will want to skip those sections entirely Instead of skipping them we suggest you skim them there just may be important information hidden right in the middle of a very basic section All of the major sections are in the index in case you need to refer back for any reason We at AVL know that a picture is indeed worth a thousand words and for that reason have included many detailed drawings to help clarify our instructions Since all of our parts are not numbered you can use these drawings to help identify certain parts Also included are instructions for options such as Rear Cloth Storage System Tension Box Sectio
112. t one To prepare for threading tie the threading cross sticks up to the rear harness pulley support with lengths of string so that the cross is in a comfortable and visible position for threading First lift out the beater then remove the front cloth beam by unscrewing the upper left bolt in the cloth beam support with a small wrench Remove the lower bolt on the side of the built in bench and tilt it to a vertical position so you can use it as a back rest Place a small stool on the floor in front of the bench Taller people may want to raise the harnesses You may also find it helpful to raise the harnesses To raise the harnesses pull the dobby arm down to the bottom of its slot To secure the arm in this position simply insert the steel stop pin that is hanging from the back ofthe dobby into the hole just above the top of the dobby arm On the bottom of the dobby unit are 16 cable ends corresponding to the 16 harnesses In turn pull each cable end downward on each cable into its slot in the arm thus raising the harnesses Make sure to lower the harnesses again when thread ing is completed Never remove the stop pin from its hole while any har nesses are lifted as this will cause the harnesses to drop too rapidly THREADING SLEYING AND TYING ON The important thing in threading is your comfort Take the time to position everything so that your body feels at ease while threading THREADING POSITIOM FIGURE 34 Threading the N
113. t to the harnesses and the heddles on each harness get stretched out to different sizes For this reason we do not recommend removing heddles from the loom for six months When heddles are removed they should be marked so they can be returned to the same harnesses For the same reason once the heddles have been on the loom for awhile it is not a good idea to switch heddles to different harnesses Mixing them up once they have been stretched would affect the evenness of the shed What some weavers do with wide warps in order to avoid having to take off extra heddles is to distribute the unused heddles among the threaded heddles as the threading is taking place Now sley the warp ends through the reed Some weavers start from the right side some from the left some in the middle But in all cases be sure to measure accurately before starting so that the warp will be centered in the reed or offset four inches to the right if the warp on the beam is already offset Weavers have various ways of positioning the reed for sley Now that you have your warp ends ready to tie we need to prepare the apron The ends will be tied to the apron rod Notice that the apron has two hemmed ends One end has openings in it and the other end has a plain hem Take the end with the plain hem and lay it on the cloth storage roller a black roller at the rear of the loom near the bottom Making sure it is centered tape the hem ofthe apron to the roller using
114. tach the clip at the end ofthe cord to the other flystring support Now notice that there is a snubber small cylindrical wooden piece attached to the front box on each side of the race The cord should go over the snubbers Snubbers are the round wooden pieces that are mounted near the inside end of each shuttle box see Figure 20 This completes the assembly of the Single Box Flyshuttle Beater This system is shipped partially disassembled to facilitate packing Follow the instructions below to complete the assembly Please refer to Figures 21 through 23 for help with terminology and locations A The first step of this assembly is to locate the shuttle race and beater legs Place the shuttle race in the loom between the front cloth beam and the harnesses Orient the race so that its long groove is facing toward the rear of the loom and is closest to the top of the race The bottom edge of the reed will go in this groove shortly Now locate your hardware package and empty it onto a table top Locate four 5 16 x 3 1 4 carriage bolts each with one flat washer and hex nut You will see that there are two holes near each end of the shuttle race that correspond with the two holes on each beater leg Also notice that one of the legs has a series of holes near the bottom of it This is the left leg The holes are for the optional Automatic Cloth Advance system which is described later Use the four bolts to attach the legs to the shuttle ra
115. the corresponding pre drilled holes as shown in the illustrations making sure that you include the small wedge shaped piece of wood as part of this assembly with the wider part of the wedge facing the rear of the loom Also make certain that the pulleys are to the rear or away from the weaver When assembled properly the bracket should be angled slightly toward the front of the loom We suggest that you refer to Figures 21 and 23 before and during this next step of the assembly Remove the flystring tie up from the bag This tie up consists of a long dacron cord with a spring attached to one end of it You should now attach the loop at the free end of this spring to the screweye that is affixed to the tope of the left Picker The Pickers the green plastic hammers that slide horizontally through the Drop Box assembly at each end of the beater assembly Now route the end of the cord under the pulley that is mounted on the rear face of the left beater leg making sure that the cord goes between the pulley and the attached retainer From this point route the cord up to the Upper Pulley assembly that you just installed a few minutes ago Route the cord over both of these pulleys and continue routing the cord on the right side of the loom exactly like you just did on the left side Page A 39 BEATER ASSEMBLIES Page A 40 Now remove the remaining small spring from the bag and attach it to the screweye You now need to tie a good stro
116. tional beam is ordered this can be mounted in the upper position To install the sectional beam in the lower position simply follow the directions given for the second plain beam Install the second sectional beam with the large wooden drum to the right as viewed from the front of the loom in the two slots at the top of the folding legs To do this you will have to temporarily remove the steel retention pins making sure to replace them after the beam is in place Page A 23 INSTALLING BEAMS AND ROLLERS Warp Beam Handle Locate your Warp Beam Handle s 42 This is a wooden assembly with a tapered crank and a pivoting grip see Figure 12 Remove the wing nut washer and bolt from the end of the handle Place the hole in the handle over the side of the standard beam axle and over the left side ofthe second beam axle Line up the bolt hole in the handle with the through hole in the axle making certain the pivoting grip faces away from the loom Push the carriage bolt through and re attach the washer and wing nut WARP BEAM HANDLE STANDARD BEAM PLAIN SECTIONAL TENSION ANCHOR FOR LOWER BEAM TENSION ANCHOR FOR UPPER BEAM LE SEPARATION ROLLERS e SECOND BEAM WARP Ne PLATN or SECTIONAL HANDLE Cao TH STORAGE ROLLER WARP BEAMS AND ROLLER crear view FIGURE 12 Installing the Cloth A Removing the Vertical Cap Beam The cloth beam can be taken in and out of the loom simply and easily
117. ull on the bundles of yarn going through the reed to pull the new warp through the heddles and reed Then either tie on to an apron or simply wind the ends around the front cloth beam Page W 23 SETTING THE TENSION DEVICE Warp tension is controlled by a special spring actuated tension drum which insures a constant tension at all times The tension is easily adjusted and the warp beam is released automatically as the cloth is advanced Tension Device First familiarize yourself with the tension device which is located on the left end of the lower beam and at the right end of the upper beam The right side ofthe loom is the side to your right as you are looking at it while sitting in the weaving position Notice that the tension system consists ofa wooden drum around which a white dacron cord is wrapped four times one end of the cord being attached to a large spring underneath and the other end attached to a smaller spring on top Further note that between the end of the cord and the small spring is a small adjusting cord held in position by a plastic clamp At the end of this cord is a steel ring that is attached to a bolt on the metal warp tension bracket ADTIUSTIMNG CORD 3 RADDLE WITH PLASTIC e ne Sed LOOSE TENSTON STEEL MOUNTING SCREW RIMS LOWER SPRING TENSION DEVICE FIGURE 37 Page W 24 Adjusting the Tension Reversing the Warp SETTING THE TENSION DEVICE Now move the warp forward three or four i
118. use it is hard to access The filter on older units 15 located on the back of the unit below the sole noids This means you must remove the CD to clean it If the filter be comes clogged it will restrict air flow heat will build up in the box and sensitive electronic components may fail and will need to be replaced If you do not feel comfortable doing this we recommend that you remove the filter altogether It s better to operate with no filter than with a clogged filter Page W 47 LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING Page W 48 b Compu Dobbies II In our Compu Dobby II design we corrected the access problem The filter here is extremely easy to find it sits atop the solenoid box In either case remove the snap on plastic cover that fits over the fan vent Remove rinse and dry the foam filament Replace It is imperative that you clean this filter regularly We recommend every two weeks depending on how much you use the loom and what type of yarn you use 4 Checking Cords and Cables Check those cords and cables All machines wear and cords are usually the first things that fatigue on a loom S Tool Kit and Spare Parts Here s a list ofthe basics nice to have around items a Minimum Tools Socket wrench with 7 16 1 2 9 16 socket 6 or 8 crescent wrench Medium standard blade screwdriver 4 Screwdriver or medium phillips and standard screwdrivers 1 8 allen wrench Paste w
119. warp beam is released automatically as the cloth is advanced Tension Device First familiarize yourself with the tension device which is located on the left end of the lower beam and at the right end of the upper beam The right side ofthe loom is the side to your right as you are looking at it while sitting in the weaving position Notice that the tension system consists ofa 2 TENSION wooden drum around which a white dacron cord is wrapped four times one Page W 50 LOOM MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING end of the cord being attached to a large spring underneath and the other end attached to a smaller spring on top Further note that between the end of the cord and the small spring is a small adjusting cord held in position by a plastic clamp At the end of this cord is a steel ring that is attached to a bolt on the metal warp tension bracket Adjusting the Tension Now move the warp forward three or four inches using the front ratchet handle and feel your warp for tension If itis too loose increase tension by pulling the two ends of the adjusting cord attached to the small upper spring Ifthe warp tension is too tight decrease tension by pressing in on the plastic clamp and letting the adjusting cord out Then move the warp forward an other three or four inches and check again to see if the tension is what you want Continue this process until the desired tension is achieved Notice that each time a new tension adjustment is made t
120. weyes Page A 38 Vertical Pull Flystring F Tie Up BEATER ASSEMBLIES At this point you should have one free end of cord coming from each end ofthe tie up As shown in Figure 20 take each of these free ends and route them under the pulley between the pulley and its retainer on the inside back face of each beater upright Then bring the cord to the screweye on the top of the picker The picker is the plastic ham mer that slides horizontally through the drop box assembly at each end of the beater assembly Tie a good strong knot at the screweye to attach the cord to the picker Where you tie the knot on the cord is not extremely important but it will determine how tight or loose the tie up but it will determine how tight or loose the tie up is A good place to start is by lightly pulling on the cord through the screweye until most of the slack is removed from the tie up but the handle is not pulled from the center of the loom Once this is done on each side the tie up assembly is complete Locate the bag marked Multiple Box Flystring Tie Up and remove its contents These pieces can now be assembled on the loom as described below and shown in Figures 21 through 23 Locate the bag marked Flystring Tie Up and remove its contents These pieces can now be assembled on the loom as shown in Figures 21 22 and 23 Use the two screws to attach the pulley assembly to the bottom edge of the front Harness Pulley Support using two of
121. will need 24 spools for a sectional beam with 1 sections or 48 spools for a beam with 2 sections Therefore we can say OF SPOOLS EPI x SIZE OF THE SECTION TOTAL YARDAGE b NUMBER OF YARDS PER SPOOL To calculate the number of yards per each spool we need to know the LENGTH OF THE WARP NUMBER OF SECTIONS on the beam We calculate the number of sections by dividing the WIDTH OF THE WARP by the SIZE OF THE SECTION If the warp width is 40 and we are using 2 sections our number of sections is 20 All together we can say OF YARDS PER SPOOL LENGTH OF THE WARP x OF SECTIONS If it is a single color warp or if a color sequence is repeating in each section the same spools or cones can be used to wind all the sections needed for the warp TOTAL YARDAGE OF SPOOLS x OF YARDS PER SPOOL It is important to make these calculations in advance so that you can purchase your yarn in spools or cones corresponding to the amount of yardage needed on each Sometimes this is not possible and you will need to wind your own spools from yarn that is in larger packages For doing this you will need empty plastic spools a bobbin winder preferably electric and a yardage counter These items are available from AVL Page W 10 Extension Cords Feeding the Spool Rack Adjusting the Tension Device Setting a Tracking System WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM You might want to make a permanent set of ext

16H FDL Manual BOOK

Contents

Download Pdf Manuals

Related Search

Related Contents