Brother 885-X36 Sewing Machine User Manual
Contents
1. Memo We recommend that you practice making a buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric before you try it on an actual garment When making buttonholes on soft fabrics place a stabilizer material on the underside of the fabric E Making a buttonhole Q Using tailor s chalk mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric Marks on fabric Buttonhole sewing Attach the buttonhole foot A and set the pattern selection dial to Buttonhole Open the button plate and insert the button Button plate E If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm 3 16 inch CYA f Presser foot scale Length of buttonhole Diameter thickness of button 5 mm 3 16 inch 36 SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS Example For a button with a diameter of 15 mm 9 16 inch and a thickness of 10 mm 3 8 inch the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm 1 inch on the scale C fo 10 mm 3 8 inch 15 mm 9 16 inch 4 Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot You need to sew the front bar tack first Lower the presser foot to align the marks on the foot with the mark on the fabric Cry Starting mark2. Buttonhole lever 1 Step automatic buttonhole Page 36 Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes Handle Carry the sewing machine by its handle whentransporting the machine Thread guide Page 15 19 This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and then threading the machine Spool pin and spool cap Page 14 19 This holds the spool of thread Foot controller Page 7 You can use this to control the sewing speed and to start and stop sewing Foot Controller Model KD 1902 for 110 120V area Model KD 2902 for 220 240V area The foot controller part code differs depending on the country or region Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center Flat bed attachment The accessories are stored in the storage space in the flat bed attachment Q Swing the lid of the flat bed attachment toward you to open the storage space Flat bed attachment Accessory compartment gt The bag of accessories is in the storage space USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE WARNING Use only regular household electricity for the power source Using other power sources may result in fire electric shock or damage to the machine Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition Turn off the main power and remove the plug in t
3. Hold the thread with your right hand so that there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out and then pass the thread under the thread guide B with your left hand Thread guide B Pull the thread to the right pass it under the hook of the bobbin winding thread guide and then wind the thread counterclockwise between the discs pulling it in as far as possible Hook of the bobbin winding thread guide Pre tension disk While using your left hand to hold the thread that was passed through the bobbin winding thread guide use your right hand to wind the end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin five or six times Pass the end of the thread through the slit in the bobbin winder seat and then pull the thread to the right to cut it Slit in bobbin winder seat with built in cutter gt The thread is cut to a suitable length caution Be sure to cut the thread as described If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat the bobbin may not be wound correctly In addition the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out Press the foot controller to start Lower threading Install the bobbin wound with thread caution Make sure you turn off the machine When the bobbin seems full and begins while threading If you accidenta
4. We have designed these accessories to help you easily perform most sewing tasks Mz 348 Note Bobbin SFB One is on machine SA156 XA5539 151 Hard case Part Code Part Code No Patt Name Americas Others Part Name Americas Others Zigzag foot J Twin needle l on machine XC4901 021 2 0 75 needle X57521 021 2 Buttonhole foot A XD1792 031 Needle set 3 piece set XE5328 001 3 Zipper foot T XE9369 001 90 14 needle 2 piece set XE7064 001 i uM X Disc shaped 4 Button sewing foot M XE2137 001 Serender XC1074 051 5 Blind stitch foot XF1639 001 Seam ripper XZ5082 001 6 Extra spool pin XE2241 001 Cleaning brush X59476 021 7 Spool cap A 130012 024 Foot controll 5 5 8 Spool cap B 130013 124 oot conToTer po page XF1570 001 Soft cover The included accessories vary depending on the machine model X53984 027 Optional accessories The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately Depending on the model you purchased the following accessory may be included with your machine o dicen rers Ne Part Name _ a 1 Walking foot SA140 ee are 4 Narrow hemmer foot SA126 rooe gA Suiting toot Sa129 XC1948 052 5 Quilting guide SA132 X02215 052 3 1 4 inch quilting foot sa1t25 Pee nee KNOWING YO
5. authorized dealer e In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself If the roblem persists please consult your ocal authorized Brother dealer Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice For additional product information visit our web site at www brother com SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS This machine is intended for household use This appliance is not intended for use by persons including children with reduced physical sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance FOR USERS IN THE UK EIRE MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY IMPORTANT e In the event of replacing the plug fuse use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362 i e carrying the mark rating as marked on plug e Always replace the fuse cover Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted e Ifthe available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment you should contac
6. gently drawing the work away from you and pulling it toward you Me 3A Note Sew while holding the fabric stretched in order to keep the fabric held down O Repeat this motion until the section being darned is filled with parallel lines of stitching D Lip Q When you are finished darning slide the feed dog position switch to sfafe see page 13 and turn the handwheel to raise the dogs Memo The feed dog position switch is normally set to the right side The feed dogs come up when you start sewing again Appliqu s rt Width mm inch Stitch Name Stitch ak Pattern mm inch Zigzag F 2 Stitch 1 64 1 16 You can create an appliqu by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and applying it as a decoration 1 Baste the cut design to the fabric 2 Carefully sew around the edge of the design with a zigzag stitch E When sewing seams Using the blind stitch foot oO Turn off the machine Stitch pattern Stitch Length Stitch Width Attach the blind stitch foot Name mm inch mm inch Turn on the machine Straight Set the pattern selection dial to the Stitch Any Any Straight Stitch and then set the stitch width at 2 5 3 32 inch center Align the foot guide with the needle position Zigza 1 4 0 6 5 i i i Sean 1 16 3 16 4 ants pattern selection dial to the Zigzag F Place the fabric under the foot so the foot Bine F 2 3 6 5 gu
7. raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you counterclockwise so that the mark on the wheel points up Mark on the wheel 20 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE 14 While lowering the needle threader lever hook the thread onto the guide Needle holder Needle threader lever Needle holder Needle threader lever Guide 21 Pull down the needle threader lever as much as possible and then turn the lever toward the back of the machine away from you Make sure that the hook passes through the eye of the needle and grabs the thread Hook Thread Hold the thread in front of the needle to make sure that the hook grabs it While lightly holding the thread turn the needle threader lever toward the front of the machine toward you The hook will pull the thread through the needle Pull the loop of the thread passed through Pass the end of the thread through the the eye of the needle toward the rear of presser foot and then pull out about 5 cm the machine 2 inches of thread toward the rear of the machine Loop of thread NON 5 em 2 inches Be careful not to pull on the thread with y N force or it may bend the needle A Note Ifthe thread does not pass through the If you incorrectly feed the thread you may eye of the needle start from step cause sewing problems again JE Note Drawing up the lower Needle
8. 30 NAMES cee ie O Straight stitching wwa Stretch stitching sessrsssserserrserssnssirsseeressocreese 9 T Thread Cutter si ste Seausevaactsseveteddsussevevreadees tes 26 Thread tensio ssesc a ssssssacessaverce ssuseerevtesees sist 29 Threading OWED A EE 16 needle threader wel twin needle 28 upper OE ENR AE se lO Triple zigzag stretch stitching iea D Troubleshooting sirosis tnnenisiissis 45 Twin needle attaching ccsccnutncssdveessucsceanenceysasiveseaders 8 27 SOWING oiri ena E TOA 27 U Upper tension control dial ccceceeseeeee 29 Upper threading cccceeseesseesseeeeeeeeeeeee 18 Z Zigzag stitching eee eee eeeseeeeeseeeeees 30 Zipper INSEPION 050 ctvescesscarevesoesesecssraceseen 40 48 English O OATI 885x3638 XF1764 001 Printed in China
9. DECORATIVE STITCH 3 6 5 8 1 4 3 6 5 8 1 4 3 6 5 8 1 4 3 6 5 8 1 4 aD wn 4 Sa Bu aD wn 4 3 6 5 8 1 4 Sa ee 3 6 5 8 1 4 3 6 5 8 1 4 3 6 5 8 1 4 Ww an wn 8 1 4 6 5 1 4 3 6 5 1 8 1 4 3 6 5 1 8 1 4 3 6 5 1 8 1 4 6 5 E 6 5 1 4 STITCH 1 64 1 16 1 64 1 16 1 64 1 16 F 1 5 1 64 1 16 F 1 5 1 64 1 16 F 1 5 1 64 1 16 F 1 5 1 64 1 16 Fixed 2 5 Fixed 25 SS Fixed Fixed 2 5 3 32 JJ Fixed 2 5 Fixed 2 5 Fixed 2 5 Pattern Stitch Name 37 Stitches 27 Stitches 27 DECORATIVE STITCH Recommended Length mm inch Recommended Width mm inch Reference Page 6 Fixed 2 5 3 32 e Fixed 5 3 32 DECORATIVE STITCH DA 69 Fixed 35 3 32 cay DECORATIVE STITCH 5 DECORATIVE STITCH 3 6 5 LINK STITCH 1 8 1 4 J Stitch length dial Depending on the selected stitch you may need to adjust the stitch length for best results The numbers marked on the stitch length dial represent the stitch length in millimeters mm 1 25 inch THE HIGHER THE NUMBER THE LONGER THE STITCH With the 0 setting material is not fed This is used when sewing a button The F 1 range is for making a satin stitch closed zigzag stitch which is used for making buttonholes and decorative stitches
10. J For details on changing the presser foot refer to Changing the presser foot on page 8 caution When using the twin needle be sure to attach zigzag foot J otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged O Turn on the machine O Select a stitch caution After adjusting the stitch width slowly turn the handwheel toward you counterclockwise and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot If the needle hits the presser foot the needle may bend or break When using the twin needle make sure the stitch width is not set above 2 5 since this may cause the needle to hit the needle plate and break 28 SEWING BASICS AAA Start sewing For details on starting to sew refer to Starting sewing on page 25 gt Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other Mz 248 Note When using the twin needle the stitches may become bunched together depending on the types of thread and fabric that are used If this occurs increase the stitch length For details on adjusting the stitch length refer to Stitch length dial on page 12 caution When changing the sewing direction be sure to raise the needle from the fabric and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric Otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged Thread tension The tension of the thread will affect the quality of your stitch
11. Stitch can be used to sew a picot lace like edge on lightweight fabric Adjust the thread tension so that it is tighter than normal 2 Place the fabric under the presser foot so that it will be sewn along the bias with the straight stitches sewn on the seamline and the zigzag stitches sewn slightly over the folded edge Sew at a slow speed Zigzag stitches Elastic stitching Stitch Stitch Length Width mm inch mm inch Stitch Name Pattern F 2 5 3 6 5 Elastic Stitch 1 64 3 32 1 8 1 4 You can use the Elastic Stitch for mending sewing elastic or joining fabric Each is explained below E Mending Place the reinforcement fabric under the area you want to mend e Use the basting pins to hold the reinforcement fabric Following the line of the tear sew using the Elastic Stitch as shown E Sewing elastic Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric As you sew stretch the elastic in front of and behind the presser foot 32 BUILT IN STITCHES E Joining fabric You can use the Elastic Stitch to join two pieces of fabric together and it is very effective when sewing knitted fabrics If you are using nylon thread the stitch will not be visible 1 Put the edge of the two pieces of fabric together and center them under the presser foot 2 Sew them together using the Elastic Stitch Make sure you keep the two fabric edges close together e U
12. electrical or mechanical adjustment e While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual such as an odor heat discoloration or deformation stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord e When transporting the machine be sure to carry it by its handle Lifting the machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling which could cause injuries e When lifting the machine be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements otherwise you may injure your back or knees 4 Always keep your work area clear e Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the build up of lint dust and loose cloth e Do not store objects on the foot controller e Do not use extension cords Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet e Never drop or insert any object into any opening e Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered e Do not use the machine near a heat source such as a stove or iron otherwise the machine power cord or garment being sewn may ignite resulting in fire or an electric shock e Do not place this machine on an unstable surface such as an unsteady or slanted table otherwise the machine may fall resulting in injuries 5 Special care is required when sewing e Always pay close attention to t
13. lowering the feed dogs increase the stitch length Continuing to move the feed dog position switch as far as sew with the stitches bunched together possible to the appropriate side Since the It in th dle bendi feed dogs can not be lowered using the feed SU ta AEE a OE dog position switch immediately after they breaking are raised turn the handwheel toward you counterclockwise once and after the feed dogs are raised lower them using the feed Reverse sewing lever dog position switch You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and reinforcing seams To sew in reverse push the reverse sewing lever in as far as possible and hold it in that position while you lightly push the foot controller To sew forward release the reverse sewing lever The machine will then sew forward Down position Feed dog position switch Up position Reverse sewing lever THREADING THE MACHINE Winding the bobbin NON We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine If you use bobbins from other models the machine will not work properly Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type part code SA156 SFB XA5539 151 Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine Actual size 11 5 mm 7 16 inch L This model Other models Tm ji 1 Turn on the machine gt oO Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so that the
14. number Patterns and stitch names E 37 Stitches E 27 Stitches only available on certain models VVV am z3 WN wd Pattern Recommended Recommended Stitch Name Width Length Reference Page 37 Stitches 27 Stitches _ mm inch 1 STEP AUTOMATIC as 3716 BUTTONHOLE Dial 4 7 ives ine pos STRAIGHT STITCH ay ie ae 30 40 41 42 ZIGZAG STITCH re 30 39 41 42 0 1 4 1 64 3 16 3 6 5 F 2 BLIND HEM STITCH 18 174 1 64 1 16 3 6 5 SHELL TUCK STITCH ata fied a8 ELASTIC STITCH ney 18 174 1 64 3 32 STRETCH BLIND HEM 3 6 5 F 1 5 STITCH 8 1 4 1 64 1 16 SCALLOP STITCH nen tiene 3 6 5 DOUBLE ACTION STITCH ae BRIDGING STITCH nye RAMPART STITCH rey ELASTIC SHELL TUCK 3 6 5 8 1 4 Ease ts 4 4 lt lt lt lt 5 5 gt gt gt gt Le EJES 9 9 z2 Pr lt 3 S an D S iy ao pe S S ca 12 12 gt gt S S 10 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Pattern 37 Stitches 27 Stitches Recommended Width mm inch Stitch Name Recommended Length mm inch Reference Page BEAD STITCH ARROWHEAD STITCH PARALLELOGRAM STITCH SCALLOP STITCH LIGHTNING STITCH SQUARE STITCH DECORATIVE STITCH TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH TRIPLE ZIGZAG STRETCH ELASTIC OVERLOCK ELASTIC OVERLOCK STITCH FEATHER STITCH COMB STITCH DECORATIVE STITCH FAGOTING STITCH DECORATIVE STITCH DECORATIVE HEM STI DECORATIVE STITCH
15. other objects during sewing The needle may break and you may be injured Always use the correct presser foot If you use the wrong presser foot the needle may hit the presser foot and bend or break and you may be injured When you turn the handwheel by hand always turn it toward you counterclockwise Turning it the other way may cause the thread to tangle and damage the needle or fabric and you may be injured Do not start sewing without placing the fabric under the presser foot otherwise the presser foot may be damaged Starting sewing Turn on the machine oe 2 Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you counterclockwise so that the mark on the wheel points up Turn the pattern selection dial to select a stitch see page 9 12 4 Change the presser foot see page 8 25 O Raise the presser foot lever Presser foot lever O Place the fabric under the presser foot pass the thread under the presser foot and then pull out about 5 cm 2 inches of thread toward the rear of the machine 5 cm 2 inches While holding the end of the thread and the fabric with your left hand turn the handwheel toward you counterclockwise with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching Lower the presser foot lever Presser foot lever Slowly press down on the foot controller gt The machine starts sewing Take your foot off t
16. thin fabrics 27 Sewing stretch fabrics 27 Stitching cylindrical pieces lt 27 Sewing with a twin needle Option 27 Thread tension cecsandesevovercacasssssugnenammnccecerssrsonues 29 BUILT IN STITCHES 30 9 Straight StitGhing sypie Zigzag stitching Blind hem stitching Shell tuck stitching Elastic stitching i Double action stitching s s sssessssissssisissisiereeten 33 POROUS sr vecsncinennaiecscan tece rarad tt ETAS S ESA TAT 33 Overedge stitching 134 Feather stitching 35 Triple zigzag stretch stitching S035 Decorative stitching cceecseeeeeeseeeeeeeeeeee 35 4 SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS cccsssesseesessrreees 36 Making a buttonhole 1 step automatic buttonhole Adjusting buttonholes Sewing buttons 5 USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS 0ceeeeeeeeeee 40 Zipper INSOMION saviiscicconmamanieseconinn 40 Gathering 41 Darning 4 Appliqu s is 41 Using the blind stitch foot cece eee 42 6 APPENDIX sscccsssrreescsesrreees 43 MAINTENANCE ccccsessesseeeseeeseeesseeeseeens 43 Restrictions On oiling oe eee eeeteeeeeeeeees 43 Precautions on storing the machine 43 Cleaning ssesassssasevectats covbenssssestscesesesess 43 TROUBLESHOOTING 45 INDEX sisssscisessossesessessa sttossesessrasesierseerssecossess 48 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ACCESSORIES
17. thread properly For example you have not fitted the spool properly or the thread has come out of the guide above the needle los Correct the upper threading The upper threa There are knots or tangles in the thread Remove any knots or tangles breaks The needle is not appropriate for the thread Choose a needle that is appropriate for 24 you are using the type of stitch V The upper thread tension is too tight Loosen the upper thread tension 45 Symptom The upper threa breaks The lower thread is tangled or breaks The thread tension is incorrect The fabric is wrinkled Possible cause How to put it right Page The needle is bent or blunt Replace the needle 7 The needle is incorrectly installed Correctly install the needle 7 Replace the needle plate eo h NOIE in ME needle Contact your retailer or the nearest P pi j authorized service center Replace the bobbin case Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center You have not used a bobbin that has been Use a bobbin that has been designed for designed for this machine this machine The bobbin case is scratched or has a burr on it 1 You have not wound the bobbin thread Wind the bobbin thread properly 1 properly Toa is scratched or does not turn Replace the bobbin i Remove the tangled thread and clean You have not used a bobbin that has been Use a bobbin that has been designed for designed f
18. thread 65 9 90 14 ae thread thread 100 16 6 eae alad a 348 Note Never use a thread weighted 20 or lower It may cause machine malfunction Memo The lower the thread number the thicker the thread and the higher the needle number the thicker the needle E Ball point needle Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur The factory recommended needle is HG 4BR Organ Schmetz needles JERSEY BALL POINT 130 705H SUK 90 14 may be used as a substitute E Transparent nylon thread Use a 90 14 to 100 16 needle regardless of the fabric or thread A CAUTION Make sure you follow the needle thread and fabric combinations listed in the table Using the wrong combination such as heavyweight fabric like denim with a small needle 65 9 75 11 may bend or break the needle The wrong combination may also cause the seam to be uneven the fabric to pucker or the machine to skip stitches 24 SEWING BASICS 2 SEWING BASICS Please read before sewing A CAUTION To avoid being injured watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine Keep your hands away from moving parts Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing otherwise the needle may be damaged and you may be injured Do not use bent or broken needles otherwise you may be injured Take care that the needle does not hit basting pins or
19. threader cannot be used when using thread the twin needle In this case thread the needle as des ribed below You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread When sewing gathers or darts you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over Before you draw up the lower thread put the bobbin back in 1 Raise the presser foot lever Remove the bobbin cover and then reinstall the bobbin Pass the thread along the slit in the direction of the arrow and leave it there Raise the presser foot lever without cutting it gt y e The bobbin cover should still be removed 22 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE While lightly holding the end of the upper thread slowly turn the handwheel toward you counterclockwise by hand to lower and then raise the needle Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower thread Upper thread Lower thread Pull out about 10 cm 4 inch of both threads and put them toward the back of the machine under the presser foot Upper thread Lower thread Q Replace the bobbin cover 23 BRIC THR AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS ene Thread A Fabric Type Application Type Size of Needle bes 75 11 90 14 E rea Thin fabrics E 65 9 75 11 Thick fabrics Corduroy Synthetic thread 90 14 100 16 silk thread Stretch fabrics Thread for knits 7M 1 90 1 H Easily frayed fabrics Synthetic thread
20. touch the zipper foot before you start sewing Choosing a different stitch will cause the needle to hit the presser foot and break and you may be injured Turn on the machine 4 With the right side of the fabric facing up continue sewing with the zipper on the right side of the presser foot End of zipper opening Basting stitching Zipper e Sew the stitching in order from to cauTIoN Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing If the needle hits the zipper the needle may break and you may be injured O When you have finished sewing remove the basting stitching 40 USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS Gathering Stitch Length mm inch Stitch Name Pattern Straight Stitch 4 3 16 1 Loosen the tension of the upper thread so that the lower thread lies on the underside of the material Sew a single row or many rows of straight stitches Pull the lower threads to gather the material 0 Darning Stitch Length Stitch Name mm inch Pattern Straight Stitch Any Raise the presser foot lever and then slide the feed dog position switch to J see page 13 Remove both the presser foot and presser foot holder assembly and then lower the presser foot lever Put the section you want to darn under the presser foot together with fabric for reinforcement Turn on the machine Begin sewing by alternating between
21. 2 Hook the gimp thread onto the back end of the buttonhole foot bring the two gimp thread ends to the front of the foot insert them into the grooves and then temporarily tie them there Set the stitch width to match the diameter of the gimp thread 4 Start sewing O Once sewing is completed gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack and then trim off the excess Adjusting buttonholes If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not the same you can make the following adjustments 1 Set the stitch length dial between F and 1 5 and sew the buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric to observe how the material is fed 2 If the right side of the buttonhole is too open or tight adjust the feeding of the material with the stitch length dial e An Right side Shorter Longer After obtaining a satisfactory feed on the right side stitch the buttonhole and observe the feeding 4 If the left side is too open or tight compared with the right side adjust the buttonhole fine adjustment screw as described in the following paragraphs e Ww kawal Kew I L Buttonhole fine adjustment screw Left side Buttonhole appearance 38 SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS If the left side is too open turn the buttonhole fine adjustment screw with a large screwdriver
22. 5 2 5 3 32 1 8 1 4 This stitch can be used wherever a zigzag stitch would be used to sew heavyweight stretch fabrics The Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitch can also be used as a decorative top stitch 35 Decorative stitching Pattern Stitch Name Stitch Name Scallop Stitch ao Bead Stitch Arrowhead Stitch Parallelogram Stitc Decorative Scallop Stitch Stitch Lightning Stitch Square Stitch Link Stitch These stitches can be used for decorative top stitching and for smocking Refer to page 10 11 for the recommended stitch width and length of each stitches 4 SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS A CAUTION Always turn off the machine before replacing the presser foot Otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing Making a buttonhole 1 step automatic buttonhole Stitch Stitch Pattern Length Width mm inch mm inch 3 5 F 1 Buttonhole foot 5 164 1716 KERIS Making a buttonhole is a simple process that provides reliable results With the 1 step Automatic Buttonhole Stitch pattern a buttonhole is sewn by automatically changing the sewing direction when the buttonhole lever and buttonhole foot are used Mz 348 Note When sewing a stitch pattern other than for a buttonhole do not lower touch or move the buttonhole lever otherwise the stitching may become misaligned or sewn incorrectly
23. Operation Manual Sewing Machine Product Code 885 X36 X38 Ialia NANANA ANA VVV VUVUVUUVL NANANA ANA VVV UVVUUVL S Please visit us at http solutions brother com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions FAQs UY VU IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine DANG ER To reduce the risk of electric shock 1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using when cleaning when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual or if you are leaving the machine unattended WARN l NG To reduce the risk of burns fire electric shock or injury to persons 2 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual e To unplug the machine switch the machine to the symbol O position to turn it off then grasp the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet Do not pull on the cord e Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet Do not use an extension cord e Always unplug your machine if the power is cut 3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug if it is not working properly if it has been dropped or damaged or water is spilled on the unit Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination repair
24. READ AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS on page 24 The needle threader can be used with a 75 11 through 100 16 home sewing machine needle However the needle threader cannot be used with a 65 9 home sewing machine needle When using special thread such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread the needle threader cannot be used Thread with a thickness of 130 120 or thicker cannot be used with the needle threader The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle e e 1 Turn off the machine Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you counterclockwise so that the mark on Raise the presser foot lever the wheel points up Ifthe needle is not correctly raised the sewing machine can not be threaded Presser A a S Mark on the wheel 18 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE 4 Swing up the spool pin and then remove the spool cap amp o Spool pin Spool cap O Fully insert the spool for the upper thread onto the spool pin Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom cauTION If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and the thread or needle may break If the spool cap that is used is smaller than the spool the thread may catch for example on the notch in the spool or the needle may brea
25. Stitching marierons nonna 32 F Fabric thread and needle combinations 24 Fagoting serari nrn 33 Feather stitching 35 Feed dog position swit 13 Feed dogs eeeeee 213 Flat bed attachment sss Foot controller sl Free arimstyle lt isscssvesssanesbexas seviwesvseasesuestesess 27 G Gathering visecscscsacsecsestevssessicaseetetacsareesredeenes 41 H Handwheel warea a E AE 18 L Lights Witehi sc csasesvcsecsassesnndsavesvesoesaceadsaronsoasees 7 Lower threading se quick set bobbin M Main parts Main power aes MGINTCNANCE icnies cssaicintdsscniancneriteeteionnines 43 N Needle checking weicestaieverccoescecedvenseantenestsareneseat 7 combinations with fabric and thread 24 replacing ad Needle threader nesens 21 0 Overedge stitching ccceeceeseceseeeeeeneeee 34 P Pattern selection dial Patterns ccccseseceeeseee Presser foot changing Q Quick set bobbin wo ccc ceteeeeeeee 16 22 R Race Cleaning ic cscicssncscctecnseesasssacisoessswteedvs 43 Reverse sewing lever csssccsssessssseessesteones 13 S DAUM SHITE lt cssassia satiated dndseparsaasasadescarpeeredenses 30 Shell tuck stitching eeceesseeseeeseeeseeseeee 32 Spool cap seeeeeeeee 14 19 Spool PIN srssssisrisssisesvs issvnserisisesesiessssouss s s 18 Extra srasssissciseires wine 28 Stitch length dial sive 1D Stitch Widthi dial sessirnir 12 Stitches E INs sera ceia E TE
26. The position needed for making the satin stitch varies according to the material and thread being used To determine the exact dial position first test the stitch and length settings on a scrap piece of fabric to observe the feeding of the material Stitch length dial Shorter Longer caution If the stitches are bunched together lengthen the stitch length and continue sewing Do not continue sewing without lengthening the stitch length otherwise the needle may break and cause injury Stitch width dial Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you counterclockwise so that the mark on the wheel points up The numbers marked on the dial represent the stitch width Stitch width dial When the Straight or Triple Stretch Stitch is selected the needle position can be changed from left to right by adjusting the stitch width dial ZEN AE SF 12 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHEN Eta A caution Feed dog position switch After adjusting the stitch width slowly Use the feed dog position switch to raise or lower the turn the handwheel toward you feed dogs according to the job that is being done When counterclockwise and check that the darning or sewing on buttons the feed dogs should be needle does not touch the presser foot If lowered The garment will not be fed the needle hits the presser foot the Me needle may bend or break as Note If the stitches are bunched together When raising or
27. UR SEWING MACHINE THE MAIN PARTS 000000 00 9 Bobbin winder Page 13 This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread Stitch length dial Page 12 Rotate the dial to control the stitch length Stitch width dial Page 12 Rotate the dial to control the stitch width Upper tension control dial Page 29 This controls the tension of the upper thread Bobbin winding thread guide and pre tension disc Page 14 18 Thread take up lever Page 20 Thread cutter Page 26 Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them Needle threader Page 21 Quick set bobbin Page 16 22 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment Page 5 Presser foot Page 8 Feed dog position switch Page 13 Reverse sewing lever Page 13 Push this lever to stitch in the reverse direction Pattern indication window Page 9 Shows the stitch number to be performed Pattern selection dial Page 9 Rotate the dial in either direction to choose the stitch you want Handwheel Used to manually raise and lower the needle Buttonhole fine adjustment screw Page 38 Main power and sewing light switch Page 7 You can turn the main power and sewing light switch on and off Foot controller jack socket Page 6 Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the machine to the power supply Presser foot lever Page 18 Used to raise and lower the presser foot A
28. abric Right side of fabric Basting Edge of fabric Desired edge of hem 000 Basting point lt Thick fabric gt lt Normal fabric gt lt Seen from the side gt Remove the flat bed attachment and make free arm sewing possible For details on free arm sewing refer to Stitching cylindrical pieces Page 27 Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm make sure that the fabric feeds correctly and then start sewing IA Arm After selecting a stitch slowly turn the handwheel toward you counterclockwise until the needle has moved from the right side to the left Position the fabric under the presser foot and then adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem Wrong side of fabric Fold of hem J Needle drop point g r Needle Needle drop point Fold of hem 80 Stitch width hi ATi Lower the presser foot lever For details on changing the stitch width refer to Stitch width dial on page 12 Sew at a slow speed holding the fabric with your hands so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem Remove the basting stitching and turn the fabric right side up gt Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Shell tuck stitching Stitch Stitch Length Width mm inch mm inch Stitch Name Pattern Shell Tuck i F 3 3 6 5 Stitch 1 64 1 8 1 8 1 4 The Shell Tuck
29. d the machine starts sewing D Slower Only use sewing machine needles for Faster home use Other needles may bend or You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot break and cause injury controller when the machine is not in use Never sew with a bent needle A bent needle will easily break and cause injury caution Q Turn off the machine Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you counterclockwise so that the mark on the wheel points up Lower the presser foot lever Presser foot lever CAUTION CAUTION Make sure you insert the needle until it touches the stopper and securely tighten Before replacing the needle place fabric or paper under the presser foot to prevent the needle from falling into the the needle clamp screw with a disc hole in the needle plate shaped screwdriver otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be 4 Hold the needle with your left hand and damaged then use a disc shaped screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise to remove the needle Changing the presser foot V caution Always turn off the machine before you Use a disc shaped screwdriver Needle clamp screw Do not use excessive force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw otherwise ce
30. e machine Thread is tangled below the needle plate cannot be removed 7 14 7 Lift up the fabric and cut the threads below it and clean the race The needle is incorrectly installed Correctly install the needle The needle clam screwis loose Use a disc shaped screwdriver to firmly p J tighten the screw D The needle is bent or blunt Replace the needle Th thread t threaded N Page ere aes Correct the upper threading You have not used the right combination of Choose a thread and needle that are fabric thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric The presser foot you are using is not Attach the presser foot that is correct appropriate for the type of stitch that you for the type of stitch that you want to The needle want to sew sew breaks The upper thread tension is too tight Loosen the upper thread tension 29 You are pulling the fabric too much Lightly guide the fabric You have not fitted the spool properly Fit the spool properly 14 27 Replace the needle plate Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center 7 7 18 24 The area around the hole in the needle plate or the presser foot is scratched Replace the bobbin case The bobbin case is scratched Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center You have not used a bobbin that has been Use a bobbin that has been designed designed for this machine for this machine You have not threaded the upper
31. es You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread Memo We recommend that you do a test sample on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew E Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric Surface of fabric Back of fabric Upper thread Lower thread 29 E Upper tension is too tight Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric Mz 248 Note If the bobbin thread was incorrectly threaded the upper thread may be too tight In this case refer to Lower threading on page 16 and rethread the bobbin thread Surface of fabric Back of fabric Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric OOO Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension control dial to a lower number Upper tension is too loose Loops appear on the back of the fabric Mz Note ifthe upper thread was incorrectly threaded the upper thread may be too loose In this case refer to Upper threading on page 18 and rethread the upper thread Ai N Surface of fabric Back of fabric Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on back of fabric OOOHOO Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tension control dial to a higher number 3 BUILT IN STITCHES Straight stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing p
32. gled in the bobbin case clean the bobbin case Slide the feed dog position switch to The feed dogs are lowered id 13 A You have not used the right combination of Choose a thread and needle that are 24 The fabric fabric thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric does not feed The thread is tangled for example in the Remove the tangle thread If the thread 43 race is tangled in the race clean the race The presser foot you are using is not Attach the presser foot that is correct appropriate for the type of stitch that you for the type of stitch that you want to want to sew sew A high pitched sound is produced while sewing Des has accumulated in the feed elses ot Clean the bobbin case A rattling noise is produced 47 EE INDEX Numerics 1 Step Automatic Buttonhole 5 36 A ICCOSSONIES ca scsaiscauceonsarnudacedesetucvaaceasieanesasenses optional Appliqu s B Blind hem stitching Blind stitch foot Bobbin winding F BULLOMSEWING sinosasenisnsnassidveuesnsesiesesaseneareons Buttonhole AC UStING Tanen eea e fetes 38 making sssri arieso 36 Buttonhole fine adjustment screw oo 38 C Cleaning isvessasesei cocrsacaseeersisdsacsncennsdeancanesenss 43 Connecting plugs ecceeeeeeeesseeeeeceseeeeseeeeees 6 D Darning sesasarisss 41 Decorative stitching 35 Double action stitching 33 Drawing up the lower thread eee 22 E Elastic
33. h the presser foot that is correct appropriate for the type of stitch that you for the type of stitch that you want to want to sew sew 29 13 16 0 46 APPENDIX Symptom Possible cause How to put it right A The fabric is The thread tension is incorrect Adjust the tension of the upper thread wrinkled You have not threaded the upper thread Correct the upper threading 18 properly You have not used the right combination of Choose a thread and needle that are 24 fabric thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric Stitches are skipped The needle is bent or blunt Replace the needle The needle is incorrectly installed Correctly install the needle Dust has accumulated under the needle Remove the needle plate and clean the 43 plate or in the bobbin case plate and the bobbin case Raise the needle by turning the The needle The needle has not been raised to the handwheel toward you correct position counterclockwise so that the mark on the wheel points up You have not inserted the needle properly Insert the needle properly Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to threader can not be used The presser foot that you are using is not correct for the type of stitch sew The stitch is not sewn The thread tension is incorrect Adjust the tension of the upper thread tly pata Remove the tangled thread If the The thread is tangled thread is tan
34. he needle Do not use bent or damaged needles e Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the machine needle e Switch the machine to the symbol O position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area e Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate as it could cause the needle to break e Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break 6 This machine is not a toy e Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children e The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger A e Do not use outdoors 7 Fora longer service life e When storing this machine avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations Do not use or store the machine near a space heater iron halogen lamp or other hot objects Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case Benzene thinner and scouring powders can damage the case and machine and should never be used Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies the presser feet needle or other parts to assure correct installation 8 For repair or adjustment e If the Light unit light emitting diode is damaged it must be replaced by
35. he following circumstances When you are away from the machine After using the machine When the power fails during use When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection During electrical storms Use only the power cord included with this machine Do not use extension cords or multi plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them Fire or electric shock may result Do not touch the plug with wet hands Electric shock may result When unplugging the machine always turn off the main power first Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet Pulling on the cord may damage the cord or lead to fire or electric shock Do not allow the power cord to be cut damaged modified forcefully bent pulled twisted or bundled Do not place heavy objects on the cord Do not subject the cord to heat These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock If the cord or plug is damaged take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time Otherwise a fire may result Mz Connecting plugs 2 46 Note Connect the foot controller plug to the fa power outage occurs while the sewing hi machine is being operated turn off the main MACMU power and unplug the power supply cord Connect the power supply plug to a wall When restarting the sewing machine follow outlet
36. he foot controller gt The machine stops sewing e You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and reinforcing seams by pressing the reverse sewing lever Refer to Reverse sewing lever on page 13 for the details Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you counterclockwise Raise the presser foot lever Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them Thread cutter Trial sewing A trial piece of fabric should be sewn Use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project and check the thread tension and stitch length and width Changing the sewing direction Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric at the point where you want to change the sewing direction and then raise the presser foot lever Using the needle as a pivot turn the fabric lower the presser foot lever and then continue sewing Sewing thick fabrics E If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position caution If fabric more than 6 mm 15 64 inches thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force the needle may bend or break 26 SEWING BASICS Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics the stitching may become misaligned
37. ide is aligned between both edges of the Fem 1 64 1 16 1 8 1 4 l Stitch fabric Sra O Lower the presser foot and start sewing Blind F 1 5 3 6 5 Hem 1 64 1 16 1 8 1 4 Stitch This foot comes in handy not only for blind hem stitching but also for sewing fabric edges and seams E When edge stitching Turn off the machine Attach the blind stitch foot Turi onthe machine E When blind hem stitching Position the needle the distance you want When blind hem stitching using the blind stitch the stitch to be from the edge of the foot turn the screw to adjust the guide to the folded fabric and then lower the needle in that hem position e For more details on blind hem stitching see Turn the foot guide screw and carefully page 30 adjust to guide the fabric 000 Folded hem Screw Guide 42 APPENDIX 6 APPENDIX MAINTENANCE Restrictions on oiling In order to prevent damaging this machine it must not be oiled by the user This machine was manufactured with the necessary amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation making periodic oiling unnecessary If problems occur such as difficulty turning the handwheel or an unusual noise immediately stop using the machine and contact your authorized dealer or the nearest authorized service center Precautions on storing the machine Do not store the machine in any of the loca
38. il to the bobbin case e Make sure that you install the needle plate securely Insert the bobbin case so that the A mark on the bobbin case aligns with the mark WN CAUTION on machine as shown below Never use a bobbin case that is scratched otherwise the upper thread may become tangled the needle may break or sewing performance may suffer For a new bobbin case part code XE9326 001 contact your nearest authorized service center Make sure that you fit the bobbin case properly otherwise the needle may break A mark mark Bobbin case e Make sure that the indicated points are aligned before installing the bobbin case 44 APPENDIX TROUBLESHOOTING If the machine stops operating correctly check the following possible problems before requesting service You can solve most problems by yourself If you need additional help the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips Visit us at http solutions brother com If the problem persists contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Page The main power switch is turned off Turn on the main power switch The sewing The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the Move the bobbin winder shaft to the machine does right left not work You have not used the foot controller Use the foot controller properly properly Fabric bein sewn with th
39. in the direction If the left side is too tight turn the buttonhole fine adjustment screw with a large screwdriver in the direction e This adjustment ensures both sides of the buttonhole are the same Sewing buttons Stitch Stitch Stitch p Length Width attern Name mm mm inch inch Button sewing foot M Zig zag stitch 1 1 64 Q Merre the distance between the Ola and mark the fabric Then adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as the distance between the holes in the button Raise the presser foot lever and then slide the feed dog position switch to TA see page 13 Turn off the machine Change the foot to the button sewing foot M Turn on the machine 00O O 39 Put a button between the foot and the fabric and make sure that the needle enters the holes without hitting the button If it hits see step caution Make sure the needle does not hit the button during sewing The needle may break and you may be injured Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric and then tie it with the bobbin thread gt Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching _ When you are finished attaching the button slide the feed dog position switch to shefe see page 13 and turn the handwheel to raise the dogs Memo The feed dog position switch i
40. k O Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin Memo When sewing with fine cross wound thread use the small spool cap and leave a small space between the cap and the spool Spool cap small Spool cross wound thread Space While holding the spool with your right hand pull the thread with your left hand and then pass the thread under the thread guide A Thread guide A Pass the thread under the thread guide B from the back to the front Hold the thread with your right hand so that there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out and then pass the thread under the thread guide B with your left hand Thread guide B Thread the machine by guiding the thread D Put the thread behind the guide above the along the path indicated by the number on the machine e The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand then feeding the thread with your right hand needle Make sure you guide the thread through the thread take up lever from right to left as shown in the following illustration Lower the presser foot lever Thread take up peers Make sure that the mark on the wheel points up as shown in the following ill tion gt Memo illustration ifthe thread take up lever is lowered the upper thread can not be wrapped around the thread take up lever Make sure you
41. lain seams Pattern Stitch Stitch Length Width 37 27 mm inch mm inch 1 4 Straight Stitch pa 1 16 3 16 Stitch Name Triple Stretch Stitch Fixed 2 5 3 32 E Top stitching and stretch materials You can use a straight stitch for top stitching and sewing lightweight fabrics You can use a triple stretch stitch for sewing stretch fabrics Zigzag stitching Stitch Stitch Length Width mm inch mm inch Stitch Name Pattern 3 Zigzag Stitch 3 res 0 6 5 1 64 3 16 0 1 4 E Zigzag stitch Turn the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch and then start sewing We recommend that you sew using the Straight Stitch at the beginning and end of zigzag stitches This acts as a reinforcement stitch E Satin stitch Setting the Zigzag Stitch length in the F 1 range produces a satin stitch close zigzag stitch The Satin Stitch can be used for making buttonholes and decorative stitches Set the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch set the stitch length in the F 1 range and set the stitch width dial between 3 and 6 5 Blind hem stitching Stitch Stitch Length Width mm inch mm inch Stitch Name Pattern Blind Hem F 2 Stitch H 1 64 1 16 3 6 5 1 8 1 4 Stretch Blind F 1 5 Hem Stitch 1 64 1 16 You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project like the hem of a pair of trousers withou
42. lly step spinning slowly take your foot off the foot on the foot controller and the machine controller starts to sew you could be injured A CAUTION 1 Prepare the bobbin wound properly before threading the lower thread When the bobbin winding becomes e See page 13 for the details about bobbin slow stop the machine otherwise the winding sewing machine may be damaged Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you Cut the thread slide the bobbin winder counterclockwise and raise the presser shaft to the left and then remove the foot bobbin from the shaft mpi tever Remove the bobbin cover by sliding it and lift toward you Mz Z Note When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin the machine will Bobbin cover make a clicking sound this is not a to malfunction k Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out The needle bar does not move when you in the direction shown by the arrow slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right A CAUTION Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen and may break the needle V caution Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle Wound evenly Wound poorly 16 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE O Hold
43. ng is finished remove the paper and the basting stitches Overedge stitching Pattern Stitch Stitch Stitch Name Length Width 3 mm inch mm inch Elastic Shell F 3 Tuck Stitch 1 64 1 8 Elastic Overlock 3 6 5 Stitch 1 8 1 4 Fixed 2 5 3 32 4 3 Comb Stitch These stitches are used to join together seams and finish them in one operation Elastic Overlock Stitch for sewing stretch materials Put the fabric under the presser foot so that the seamline or arrowhead point is approximately 3 mm 1 8 inch to the left of the center of the presser foot e Ifthe seam allowance is wider than the stitch pattern trim away any excess fabric after stitching Memo When sewing the Elastic Overlock Stitch position the fabric so that its edge is on the left of the needle 34 BUILT IN STITCHES Feather stitching Pattern Stitch Length 37 27 mm inch mm inch Stitch Name Fixed 3 6 5 Feather Stitch 2 5 3 32 1 8 1 4 Use the Feather Stitch as a decorative top stitch when embroidering or when hemming blankets tablecloths or draperies 1 Place the fabric right side up and sew 1 cm 1 2 inch from the edge of the fabric 2 Trim close to the stitching The stitch will prevent the fabric from unravelling Triple zigzag stretch stitching Pattern Stitch Stitch Length Width 27 mm inch mm inch Stitch Name Triple Zigza Stretch Stitc Fixed 3 6
44. on the fabric Marks on the foot O Lower the buttonhole lever and push it back slightly Buttonhole lever 37 While gently holding the upper thread start the machine The bar tacks of the buttonhole are sewn in the order shown Stop the machine when buttonhole stitching is finished Mz 348 Note if buttonhole sewing was interrupted sew trial stitching one or two times on a scrap piece of fabric before continuing to sew the project Stitching that is continued after being interrupted may be sewn incorrectly if thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed sew with the coarser longer stitch Raise the needle and the presser foot lever remove the fabric and cut the thread Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole s O Z Seam ripper Pin V caution When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper do not place your hands in the cutting path otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended Making a buttonhole on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabric the buttonhole stitching is sewn over a gimp thread 1 Follow steps to from Making a buttonhole on page 36
45. or the fabric may not feed correctly If this occurs place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric When you have finished sewing tear off any excess paper Stabilizer material or paper Sewing stretch fabrics First baste the pieces of fabric together and then sew without stretching the fabric Basting Stitching cylindrical pieces Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs or hard to reach areas Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to release it Flat bed attachment gt With the flat bed attachment removed free arm sewing is possible 27 Mz 3A Note When you are finished with free arm sewing install the flat bed attachment back in its original position 2 Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm and then sew from the top DSS Sewing with a twin needle Option We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches x d Twin needle Extra spool pin caution Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine part code X57521 021 2 0 75 with a 2 mm width Other needles could break and damage the machine Make sure that the needle does not strike the presser foot Do not sew with bent needles The needle c
46. or this machine this machine Bobbin is set incorrectly Reset the bobbin thread correctly 1 You have not threaded the upper thread Correct theiupper threadin properly PP 8 You have not wound the bobbin thread Wind the bobbin thread proper 1 properly pret You have not threaded the right combination of thread and needle for the fabric you are using NG Aa at the presser foot Attach the presser foot holder properly The thread tension is incorrect Adjust the tension of the upper thread You have not used a bobbin that has been Use a bobbin that has been designed designed for this machine for this machine Bobbin is set incorrectly Reset the bobbin thread correctly You have not fitted the spool properly Fit the spool properly 14 27 1 1 3 3 3 3 6 8 3 Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric N EN You have not threaded the upper thread Thread the upper thread and wind the 13 22 properly or fitted the bobbin properly bobbin thread properly p You have not used the right aari Choose a thread and needle that are och mean of fabric thread and appropriate for the type of fabric The needle is bent or blunt Replace the needle If thin fabrics are being sewn the fabric is Sew with stabilizer material under the not being fed correctly fabric k thin fabrics are being sewn the stitch is Shorten the stitch length o0 coarse The presser foot you are using is not Attac
47. ot lever and fix the E Presser foot installation orientation presser foot onto the shank If the presser foot is in the correct place the bar should snap in Pr caution Bar If the presser foot is not installed with the correct orientation the needle may strike the presser foot which may bend or break the needle and cause injury THE CONTROLS Pattern selection dial Stretch stitching Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you WN CAUTION counterclockwise so that the mark on the wheel points up When you use the pattern selection dial ee to choose a pattern raise the needle by Setting the stitch length dial to changes the turning the handwheel toward you selected pattern to a stretch stitch counterclockwise so that the mark on eE the wheel points up If the needle is in the down position when you turn the pattern selection dial the needle presser as foot or fabric may be damaged To select a stitch simply turn the pattern selection dial located on the right side of the machine The pattern selection dial may be turned in either direction The next section shows recommended stitch lengths and widths e The pattern number display does not rotate endlessly If you set the pattern selection dial to the highest or lowest pattern and continue to turn it in the same direction the dial will spin freely but the pattern will not change Pattern selection dial Chosen pattern
48. ould break and injure you E Attaching the twin needle Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single needle see page 7 8 The flat side of the needle should face toward the back and the rounded side should face toward you E Attaching the extra spool pin Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of the bobbin winder shaft Install the second thread spool onto the extra spool pin Bobbin winder shaft Extra spool pin Thread spool E Twin needle threading You should thread each needle separately Mz 248 Note You cannot use the needle threader to thread the twin needle Instead thread the twin needle by hand from front to back Using the needle threader may damage the machine see page 22 1 Thread the upper thread for the right side in the same way that the upper thread for the left side was threaded Thread guide For details refer to step through of Upper threading page 18 2 Thread the left needle Thread the right needle Thread the right needle in the same way that you threaded the left needle using the thread from the spool on the extra spool pin but do not pass the thread through the guide above the needle before you pass it through the eye of the right needle Left needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide Right needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide Needle bar thread guide 4 Attach zigzag foot
49. rtain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged 3j a With the flat side of the needle toward the back of the machine insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper Next tighten the needle clamp using a disc change the presser foot If you leave the power on and step on the controller the machine will start and you may be injured Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen If you use the wrong presser foot the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break and may cause injury Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine Using any other presser foot may cause accident or injury You will have to change the presser foot depending on what you want to sew and how Turn off the machine Raise the presser foot lever shaped screwdriver 2 Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you D counterclockwise so that the mark on 5 the wheel points up Press the black button at the back of the presser foot holder to release the presser foot a J Usea disc shaped screwdriver 4 Needle stopper Needle Install the twin needle in the same way ey Black button Presser foot holder Presser foot 4 Put a different presser foot on the needle plate so that the bar on the presser foot is in line with the slot on the shank KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE O Lower the presser fo
50. s normally set to the right side The feed dogs come up when you start sewing again 5 USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS AX CAUTION Always turn off the machine before replacing the presser foot Otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing Zipper insertion Stitch Stitch Length Width mm inch mm inch Stitch Name Pattern Straight 2 3 3 5 Stitch 1 16 1 8 Center ayn You can use the zipper foot I to sew different types of zippers and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle When sewing with the zipper on the right side attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot When sewing with the zipper on the left side attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot Right pin for sewing with the zipper on the left side Left pin for sewing with the zipper on the right side Needle drop point for sewing with the zipper on the left side Needle drop point for sewing with the zipper on the right side 1 Prepare the fabric with the zipper basted on the wrong side o Basting stitching Reverse stitches Wrong side of fabric End of zipper opening Zipper Turn off the machine Attach the zipper foot I NON Turn the handwheel toward you counterclockwise and check that the needle does not
51. se the basting pins to hold the two fabric edges close together Double action stitching Pattern Stitch Stitch Stitch Name Length Width 37 27 mm inch mm inch Double Action Stitch F 3 1 64 1 8 29 24 69 Fixed A RI 2 5 3 32 These stitches are used for joining two pieces of fabric such as when making patchwork Bridging Stitch 3 6 5 1 8 1 4 Rampart Stitch Decorative Hem Stitch 33 Example Patchwork with Double Action Stitch pu 4 Desired seamline Straight Stitch Double Action Stitch Fagoting Pattern Stitch Stitch Length Width 37 27 mm inch mm inch Fagoting 3 3 Stitch Fixed 336 5 2 5 3 32 1 8 1 4 z 28 23 Decorative Stitch These stitches are used to join two pieces of fabric while leaving a space between their edges This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used 1 Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric along their seams 2 Baste the two pieces of fabric separated by about 2 mm 1 16 inch onto thin paper or a sheet of water soluble stabilizer Stitch Name Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer z Draw a line down the middle Bastin itoni 8 2mm 1 16 i inch Set the stitch ca to 5 4 Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned along the center of the two pieces of fabric O After sewi
52. spring on the shaft fits into the notch of the bobbin Notch Spring on the shaft Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right until it snaps into place 4 Swing up the spool pin and then remove the spool cap amp o Spool pin Spool cap Hook of the bobbin winding thread guide Pre tension disk Bobbin winder shaft Bobbin O Fully insert the spool of thread for the bobbin onto the spool pin Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom caution If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly the thread may become tangled around the spool pin O Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin With the slightly rounded side of the spool cap positioned toward the left slide the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible to the right so that the spool is moved to the right end of the spool pin 14 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHEN EPMA Memo When sewing with fine cross wound thread use the small spool cap and leave a small space between the cap and the spool Spool cap small Spool cross wound thread Space Q While holding the spool with your right hand pull the thread with your left hand and then pass the thread under the thread guide A Thread guide A Pass the thread under the thread guide cover from the back to the front
53. t the stitch showing Blind Hem Stitch sewing on non stretch fabrics Stretch Blind Hem Stitch for stretch fabrics Memo When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short the fabric will not feed and desired results may not be achieved 1 Reverse the skirt or pants Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Bottom side Edge of fabric 30 BUILT IN STITCHES Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the hem and press Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Desired edge of hem ry lt Thick fabric gt lt Normal fabric gt lt Seen from the side gt Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm 3 16 inch from the edge of the fabric and then baste it Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting stitchin 5 mm 3 16 inch Desired edge of hem 000G lt Thick fabric gt lt Normal fabric gt lt Seen from the side gt Fold back the fabric inside along the basting Wrong side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting 5 mm 3 16 inch Desired edge of em Right side of fabric Basting point lt Thick fabric gt O 6868 O uo lt Normal fabric gt lt Seen from the side gt 31 Unfold the edge of fabric and position the fabric with the wrong side facing up Wrong side of f
54. t your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead CONTENTS IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 1 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE cccssssessssrseeesseeeee ACCESSORIES sscccssseesseesseesseeeeseeeseeessteeseee 4 Optional accessories ccce esses eeeeeeees 4 THE MAIN PARTS ssccsssesseeseesseeesseesseeesee 5 Flat bed attachment 5 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE e000 6 Connecting Plugs areren renet 6 Main power and sewing light switch 0 0 0 0 7 Foot controller eserse an ie 7 Checking the needle sserssssssssssesssssrsorseseresersorersore 7 Replacing the needle o snnsnsssssssssissssssiesiersresneneni 7 Changing the presser foo 8 THE CONTROLS Pattern selection dial Stretch stitching sssvevavesrecesecterscosdussienaessssvesd siss 9 Patterns and stitch names awe 1D Stitch length dial u12 Stitch width dial Reverse sewing lever Feed dog position switch THREADING THE MACHIN Winding the bobbin Lower threading Upper threading Drawing up the lower threa FABRIC THREAD AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS ssccesseesecsreesscssesesseesees 24 2 SEWING BASICS sssseeveeeee 25 Please read before sewing cceeeeeeeeee 25 Starting sewing ae 25 Trial sewing s eee 26 Changing the sewing direction 26 Sewing thick fabrics 26 Sewing
55. the end of the thread push the bobbin down with your finger and then pass the thread through the slit as shown e If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension adjusting spring of the bobbin case it may cause incorrect thread tension Tension adjusting spring O While lightly holding down the bobbin with your right hand as shown guide the thread through the slit and Then pull the thread toward you to cut it with the cutter e Atthis time check that the bobbin easily rotates counterclockwise Slit Cutter Cut the thread with the cutter Replace the bobbin cover Put the projection into the race retainer groove and push closed Groove Projection e Start sewing after threading the lower and upper thread When sewing gathers or darts you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over Refer to the steps in Drawing up the lower thread page 22 Upper threading CY Spool pin Thread guide Thread take up lever Mark on the handwheel When threading the upper thread carefully follow the instructions If the upper threading is not correct the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination For details on the correct combination of needles and threads refer to FABRIC TH
56. the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine For U S A only This appliance has a polarized plug one blade wider than the other To reduce the risk of electric shock this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet reverse the plug If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet Do not modify the plug in any way KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Main power and sewing Checking the needle light switch The sewing needle must always be straight and sharp This switch turns the main power and sewing light on or for smooth sewing off OQ 0 EEN lt ESS O i x Aa E Checking the needle correctly O Put the flat side of the needle on a flat surface Check the needle from the top and the sides Dispose of any bent needles safely Turn on toward the I mark Turn off toward the O mark 1 Foot controller When you press the foot controller down lightly the Parallel space machine will run at a low speed When you press Level surface bobbin cover glass etc harder the machine s speed will increase When you take your foot off the foot controller the machine will stop Replacing the needle cauTION Always turn off the machine before you change the needle Otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed an
57. tions described below otherwise damage to the machine may result for example rust caused by condensation e Exposed to extremely high temperatures e Exposed to extremely low temperatures e Exposed to extreme temperature changes e Exposed to high humidity or steam e Near a flame heater or air conditioner e Outdoors or exposed to direct sunlight e Exposed to extremely dusty or oily environments Mz 348 Note In order to extend the life of this machine periodically turn it on and use it Storing this machine for an extended period of time without using it may reduce its efficiency Cleaning A caution Make sure you unplug the machine before you clean it otherwise you risk getting an electric shock or being injured 43 oO Turn off the machine and unplug it Raise the needle and the presser foot Loosen the presser foot screw and the needle clamp screw to remove the presser foot holder and the needle Using a disc shaped screwdriver remove the two screws Lift up the needle plate as shown in the illustration and then slide the needle plate to the left to remove it Use a disc shaped screwdriver Grasp the bobbin case and then lift it out to the left O Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum Install the needle plate and then tighten cleaner to remove any dust from the race the screws and its surrounding area Cleaning brush Race Screws Do not apply o
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