MANUAL - Sears Parts Direct
Contents
1. the stitch width within white zone on the dial NOTE Double needle will hit needle plate and break if stitch width is set out of white zone on the dial Some models enable you to straight stitch with the needle in any of three positions left right or center These positions are designated as L R or C on the stitch width dial Details for sewing In these positions are given on page 21 and 36 Available at most Sears retall stores and catalog REVERSE STITCH LEVER It is best to begin and finish seams with stitches taken in reverse about J4 inch This is called BACK TACKING Back tacking fastens the ends of the seams firmly and prevents raveling When reversa stitching is needed push down the lever and hold there during sewing The fabric will immediately start feeding back wards and seam will be fastened See page 19 and 21 for details NOTE When you operate the lever while sewing straight stretch stitch the machine sews only straight stitches and does not sew straight stitch in reverse Do not use the lever while sewing zigzag stretch stitches The machine sews only zigzag stitches in reverse BUTTONHOLE CONTROL This control is used in making bar tacked buttonholes with two control settings Detailed instructions are given on page 43 This feature is built into the stitch selector on some models PRESSURE REGULATOR Presser foot pressure is vital for straight seams uniform stitch length and even2. 10 to 12 stitches per inch Polveret Core Cono Cotton n Wrap 0 Mercerized leede teeny Duty dch witches Sik A a Cotton Buttonhole Twist 10 tor Regular or Mercerized Cotton amp to 12 Stretch Stitches Cors Cotton Wrap CHANGING NEEDLE Raise neadie bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you Loosen the needle clamp screw Holding the needle with the flet side away from you slip the needie into the needle bar When it is in as far as it will go tighten the needie clamp screw PRESSER FOOT LEVER Preseer foot lever has a two position lift In order to place heavy fabric under the presser foot or to change the presser foot raise the presser foot lever to its maximum upward position as shown PREPARATION FOR THREADING Swing away spool pin fully to the back of machine Place spool of thread on the spool pin and cover with cap for smooth supply of thread Extra spool pin is provided on top of machine This is used only when winding bobbin and sewing with double needie Pull it up when using WINDING THE BOBBIN Pull out retractable spool pin and place thread spool on the pin To wind bobbin draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as indicated and pull end of thread toward bobbin winder Wind thread around bobbin several times in direction of arrow place bobbin on bobbin winder shaft Push bobbin winder latch against bobbin u
3. No 57985 foot No 57996 ONE PIECE FEET Built in buttonhole ide foot Ne o 57984 No 45896 No 45727 No 46729 No 43820 No 6794 Presser foot Gm o Spool pin caps SEN uide geen Buttonhole large No Seegen No 45870 j 1 No 65660 cover plate smali No 65652 0 65665 2 No No 60753 i o ee Buttonhole Screw drivers Lint brush Bobbin winder Light bulb opener large No 65811 No 35848 rubberring No 6797 No 57979 No 41040 No 6830 small No 65812 No 1939 OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES No 6746 sip iom INS 6888 wit synthetic Dy el knit fabrics iof event tricot or dech Los 6ases pattern matching Blind hem foot No eech ever d M Zipper foot No 6759 Roller foot No 6765 For insertion of invisible zipper dager fepe APR Gathers f UDA Ua making cui e FA bones K flounces etc Recommended for imitation feather or vinyl Machine needies Sen 9 8 MCN tier colorc did 10 Ball point color coded needles s s de Zog No 6747 Size 18 Greon No 6564 Needle threader No 43780 10 plastic bobbins No 6868 Oil Oller Contents 30cc Oil No Size 9 Brown No 68550 Size 11 Siiver Orange x 4 Size 14 Sitver Red x re 2 pcs Double needies No 6749 5 pcs Q Needies Blue No 6746 Accessory set No 6842 Expands your machine s uses from sim
4. or attaching stretch laces PLAIN ZIGZAG WAAT AAA SHELLSTITCH A good finishing stitch for nylon tricot lingerie HINTS ON SEWING DIFFERENT FABRICS The chart below provides many details but When working on tweed or other multi you ll also want to remember gier ane use one js Wee eSoft fabrics need backing especially where on n another on top Great for stitches are close sech hiems patch practically dis ein sewing knits if you can t match fabric and thread exactly use the strongest fine thread available and use a Q NEEDLE _USEFUL STITCHES TOUSE SPECIAL NOTIONS TO USE cic bred t strete Q NEEDLE n NYLON TRICOT Overlock stretch Polyester nylon or Elastic edge stretch dacron core thread Elastic stretch for sewing Q FOOT e on elastic Blind hem TERRY CLOTH OR i igzag Mercerized thread REGULAR CORDUROY Size 14 needle TERRY CLOTH STRETCH Q NEEDLE w O FOOT ni Mercerized or silk threed Straight or simple zigzag Size 14 needle Even feed foot STRETCH KNITS FOR Serging stretch Polyester nylon or SWIMWEAR AND Overcast atretch dacron core thread WEAR OR ES Elastic edge stretch Q NEEDLE w Elastic stretch Q FOOT m Three step zigzag Lace seam tape MS Sat ti l Pre shrunk zippers See the optional accessories on page 7 41 42 Snap in Automatic System BUTTONHOLE MAKING Your Kenmore brings you two buttonhole systems alon
5. you should start forward stitches Release the reverse stitch lever and complete seam Wheri you reach the end depress the reverse stitch lever and sew back backtack over V4 inch of completed seam TURNING A SQUARE CORNER To turn a square corner 5 8 from the fabric edge stop stitching with the needle piercing the fabric when reaching the cornering guide Raise the presser foot turn fabric ig New stitching line will align with 5 8 seam guide on side of needle plate Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction Fig 2 REMOVING FABRIC First turn the handwheel toward you until the needle is at its highest position then raise the presser foot draw fabric to the rear and bring it around to the left side of needle bar and cut the threads with the thread cutter located on the presser bar as shown TOP STITCHING This is a seam you may want to show off It s on the front side of the garment possibly at the top of a kick pleat or on a lapel both functional and decorative Usually its a simple forward stitch with a long stitch length or with special thread matching o contrasting DARNING SETTINGS Pressure Regulator 0 DARN Zigzag foot or square automatic buttonhole oot Stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered Lower presser bar and sew at a slow speed moving fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover darning ares When it is
6. You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread EMBROIDERY Settings same as Satin Stitching Satin stitch can be used to produce many different designs and patterns To sew the flowers illustrated back the fabric with interfacing or paper and draw on the design with tailor s chalk Turn stitch width control from 1 to 4 to 1 to form each petal and leat Join the flowers and leaves with straight stretch stitch If using paper carefully remove it when you have finished sewing MONOGRAMMING Settings same as Satin Stitching To sew initials first back the fabric with interfacing or paper Draw the initials on to the fabric with tailor s chalk Satin stitch adjusting the width from 1 4 as you begin and end the stroke of amp letter Or the same stitch width can be used throughout If using paper carefully remove it when you have finished sewing 27 BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS Stitch Selector Use feed cover plate t Fix the button on fabric at desired 2 position with clear tape Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely Turn hand wheel manually until needle approaches just above button Adjust stitch width control so needle will enter one hole of the button Turn hand wheel again ei hand so needle enters second hole Readjust stitch width if necessary Stitch a number of times Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remai
7. catalog Whenever you re ready to sew 6o is your sewing place Another option buy a Carrying Case then your Kenmore goes anywhere can be stored anywhere SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine should a need ever exist for repair parts or service simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears Roebuck and Co thes Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine See page 3 for location WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM PART DESCRIPTION If the parts you need are not atocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for haridling SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO Chicago IL 60684 U S A 8 158 Part No 89537 GD ET
8. covered tum fabric 1 4 a tm and sew layer of stitching across first yet If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole area you may want to put a separate piece under the hole for reinforcement TEMPORARY SEWING BY MACHINE No longer do you need to baste by hand Basting by machine is easy simply use straight stitching with longest available length setting Set top thread tension at 1 to 2 to facilitate pulling out bobbin thread PIN BASTING You can sew over pins easily if done correctly because your presser feet are hinged Pins must be inserted at right angles to seam line Tip of pin should just touch seam line Sew over tip of pins Pins must not come in contact with feed dogs Never pin on the under side of the fabric Sew slowly If in doubt about sewing over pins remove each pin as you approach it STAY STITCHING Stay stitching is a form of temporary seaming that prevents stretching of curved edges of garments Usually this is on a single layer of fabric so reduce top thread tension slightly to prevent puckering Baste about 14 away from intended seamline 24 ZIPPER APPLICATION CORDING SETTING ME Needie Position Stitch Width C Use zipper foot which allows you to sew to e NP or left of the zipper or close to the cord ZIPPER APPLICATION To sew down the right side attach left side of zipper foot to presser foot holder so that the needie passes through the opening on the left
9. handling of both layers of fabric To adjust pressure use pressure regulator which is located inside the face cover To increase pressure turn the dial clockwise To decrease pressure turn the dial counterclockwise SEAM GUIDES Seam guides are engraved in needle plate at both sides of feed dog holes to help you line up the fabric and keep it straight The standard seam width is 5 8 So these lines are emphasized easy to follow Each dimension on needle plate indicates seam width from needle at Center position If using either Right or Left needle position add or subtract 1 8 to the marking Also the cross lines are cornering guides to help when turning a square corner 5 8 from the edge For details on cornering see page 27 17 STRAIGHT STITCHING Decrease increase tension tension Top stitch Top stitch too Sieg too loose ZIGZAG STITCHING THREAD TENSION CONTROL STRAIGHT STITCHING The good looking king appearence Gen Schi ei ped Y nd bobbin threads Th The tension i wel balanced when these two threads lock In the middle of layers of fabric you are sewing E For most fabrics the top thread tension control should be sat in the white zone between 3 ands If when you start to sew you find that the stitching is irregular you will need to adjust the tension control Make any adjustments with presser foot down 1 If the threads are on the top surface
10. side of the foot To sew down the left side attach right side of foot to foot holder CORDING To make cording for slipcovers etc cover a cord with a strip of true bias Attach right side of zipper foot to foot holder so that needle passes through the opening on the right side of the foot ONE PIECE ZIPPER FOOT The foot is adjustable for use on the right or left side of needle when sewing regular type of zipper Adjust the foot so the needie clears the side notch on the foot Carefully follow directions given on the zipper package ZIGZAG STITCHING Simple zigzag stitching enables you to do many exciting things with your Kenmore sewing machine Beyond basics you ll use zigzag stitching to applique embroider and monogram Unlike straight stitches zigzag stitches have a side to side width as well as a Extra wide zigzag for heavy fabrics or those that fray set width at 4 Wide zigzag for double layers like hemm ing set at 3 Medium zigzag for most construction sears set at 2 Narrow zigzag for light fabrics barely shows set at 1 stitch length You ll find recipes for many zigzag operations on following pages You can create an exciting variety of zigzag stitches by adjusting stitch width and length coritrols see chart below QNEM t Si Mmm i 25 Satins titch t i b i t al OVERCASTING This is ong of the m
11. too loose 4 Fabrio i being pulled or pushed ap py machine feeding action Guide It ge 5 Presser foot pressure is too light 6 Bobbin has not been wound evenly Rewind bobbin see page 10 7 There are nicks of burre at neediep opening Replace ne dieplate or amc burrs with extra fine Emory cloth Needi breaks 1 Fabric is being pulled or pushed ag machine feeding gedon Guide It gently 2 Needle size is not correct for thread fabric See page 8 3 Needle is not all the way up into ne clamp See page 8 l 4 Presser foot holder is not fastened secui See page 14 Bunching of thread 1 Top and bobbin threads are not drawn t under pressa foot before starting s Draw both threads back under presaer apaun 4 and hold until few stitches ormed Fabric puckers 1 Top thread tension is too tight Deen top thread tension 2 Presser foot pressure is too light paga 17 3 Two different sizes or typas of thread us d Use same size dnd type of threac top and in the bobbin 4 Ne dle is bent or blunt Replace needle 5 Presser foot holder is not fastened secur Seapage ld a 6 Fabric is too sheer or too soft Use unde of tissue paper eS ee tae ichine skips stitches Needle size l not correct for thread and fabric Ga 8 Fabric is certain knit or synthetic Use Q NEEDLE wand 0 FOOT Needle ls bent or blunt Replace needie Needis ig not ail the way up
12. with the top thread lying Hat the top stitch is too tight Tension can be decreased by turning the tension Beach to the left lower ira 2 Wh reverso is ha ni f Shs ropas nderside of the fabric the tension control to the right higher num ZIGZAG The top thread may appear on the bottom on the thread 1 fabric stitch and senin but the bobbin thread must never appear on the cup of he ero H Kie Gen of gue stitching the wider the mote chance there is of this occurs decrease the top pudding I and or reduce the zigzag width BOBBIN THREAD TENSION The bobbin thread tension has been correctly at the factory s you do not need to adjust t MORE TIPS ON THREAD TENSION BALANCE A perfect stitch is obtained when the tension is well balanced but the tension balance may vary according to the type and size of needie thread and fabric The fabric determines size of thread and needle The presser foot pressure and the thread tension control should also be adjusted properly FABRICS Heavy fabrics stiff Increase top thread tension Use larger size needle heavier thread and longer stitch length 18 Heavy fabrics soft Decrease top thread tension Use longer stitch length Light sheer fabrics Decrease top thread tension and presser foot pressure Use shorter stitch length Sew slowly THREADS Polyester and silk Decrease top thread tension Nylon increase top thread tensio
13. G OR PINE LEAF STRETCH STITCH Stitch Selector P Stitch Length Yellow Zone Stitch Width 2 4 Great in making elastic swimwear as well as for overcasting a neat edge on seams it s equally useful with woven and knitted fabrics Tension may need to be tightened to achieve desired look PATCHING STRETCH STITCH Stitch Selector 8 Stitch Length Yellow Zone Stitch Width 4 W the kids keep busting out elbows or knees if someone burns a hole in expensive knits this recipe will save you big money It can be decorative too When you want patches to show 36336 Q sa s me OVERLOCK STRETCH STITCH Stitch Selector B Stitch Length Yellow Zone Stitch Width 4 This stitch Is suitable for overcasting loosely constructed knits or woven fabrics Threads lock in the middie to reinforce seams for more durability ELASTIC EDGE STRETCH STITCH Stitch Selector 1 Stitch Length Yellow Zone Stitch Width 4 Use this stitch in preference to overcast stretch for overcasting stretch or knit fabrics where strength and flexibility are required WHERE TO USE WHICH STRETCH STITCH A CHECK CHART Some stretchy suggestions SS Loosely constructed knits sometimes catch Itis always a good idea to test thread tension over toes of presser foot To remedy this and stitches on a scrap of the fabric being wrap short strip of transparent tape around used the foot encasing both toes Knits contain
14. G AND OVERCAST STITCHING THREE STEP ZIGZAG MODI MENDING A TEAR Stitch Length 24 12 Stitch Width 3 4 To repair a straight or three cornered tear position the tear under the needie in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear When mending a three cornered tear stitch from each end to the center It is well to use a piece of fabric under the tear for reinforcement Pry OVERCASTING WITH MENDING STITCH Stitch Length 12 8 Stitch Width 3 4 Three step zig zag is a strong stitch because as its name implies it takes three short stitches where normal zig zag takes one For this reason it is highly recommended for overcasting i e finishing a raw edge on all types of fabric EN SHELL STITCHING PROCEDURE Stitch Length 12 Stitch Width 2 4 This sheli stitched edge is a popular finish for lingerie and nightgowns Yo achieve this multiple scalloped effect allow needle to clear just the right edge of the fabric when it zigzags Regular shell stitch Regular shell stitch produces a tiny shell hem on lingeire and other fine garments Two point shell stitch 2 if bigger size of shell pattern is desired use two point shell stitch BOX STITCH Zigzag foot Stitch Length 24 12 Stitch Width 2 4 OVERLAPPED SEAM SEN is ideal e producing es overlapped seams on almost any type fabric and a bolder effect will a from sewing with a contrasting thread Over
15. MINO PATTERN This pattern Is suitable for dec rative edge and border PYRAMID PATTERN This is an attractive embroidery stitch to be alone or to s w on bias tape or ribbon trims DOUBLE NEEDLE DESIGNS Very attractive designe can be produced using a double needie Use different colored threads In each needle or tones of the samt color to make yet further designs Avallable at most Sears retall stores and catalog 3 CARING FOR THE MACHINE CLEANING THE FEED DOGS WITH A BRUSH To insure the best possible operation of your machine It is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times 1 Remove bobbin cover plate 2 Remove nsedie plate 3 Using the brush provided remove the lint that accumulates in and around the feed dogs and shuttle area CLEANING AND OILING On occasions you will need to clean the EL shuttle area Just follow these simple steps SHUTTLE AREA mM Hu ES Zeg LS 1 Turn hand wheel toward you until needle ip d is above feed dogs 2 Remove bobbin case by lifting it out from front 3 Clean the shuttle with the brush and put a drop of oll to the points indicated by ag arrows Don t over oll Reminder don t L t M D use household oll Kenmore sewing Ers mmi machine oil NN NOTE Kenmore Oll Oller No 6890 is avall s t NT able at most Sears retail stores and iO E catalog REPLACING BOBBIN CASE 1 Make sure needle is above f
16. OWNER S MANUAL MODEL 17840 17841 17842 17843 17871 17891 17892 DP69537 TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE identification chart POPC UPSPACE EPC ESE SESS ESE ST TIT IINIIIII und 3 Setting up your machine SEET kien 4 Foot control Power light watch Speed range switch Selah Neat sewing Acceseory box erte 5 6950r1608 bu dibde suut uettect s V tiu tuyte utatiVeevi spus ev w Needles Needle thread and fabric chart 8 Changin needle Presser foot lever Prepara on for threading DUTOT ee DESEN AS ngrthn 9 Threading the bobbin cana ITT TOL 10 bin case DT vtoslas LETTELE Threading op thread ker b bt esos n jov auvute dd Picking Ub bobbin thread ote dut hbdkhhb b hb thbt ee K Presser feet Changing presser feet Feed cover plate 14 Stitch selector Stitch la th control v bt btt wee lB Stitch width needle posit on control Reverse stitch lever Buttonhole control bb ss td b taabshs kttb tb yd seeene 16 Pressure ulator Seam guides rene Xiveed AON control b k t eo ebt kt l4diss t hbab ko 46 2 STARTING TO SEW S t getesttt ettt azkaeptihttgt g ttrshttie WW Machine setting chant deeg 20 Straight stitching us ddt ut setatdeenusaubus 421 24 Three noodile positions Starting to sew and back tacking Turning a square corner Removin fabric Top s tehing arning Te
17. SWITCH Your machine wil not operate unless the power light switch is turned on Turning on the power automatically illuminates the stitching area If you re interrupted or stop sewing and leave the machine turn off the power light switch SPEED RANGE SWITCH Your machine has two ranges of speed a low range for slower intricate work and a high one for faster general work On the low setting the machine will sew no faster than approximately one half the speed of the high one even when the foot control is fully depressed CONVERTING TO FREE ARM SEWING This machine can be usad either as a flatbed or as a freearm model With the accessory box in place the machine is a flatbed model with a large working surface which slopes gemy GE you to help the smooth flow ot fabric By removing the accessory box the machine converts into free arm machine for sewing children s clothes cuffs trouser legs armholes and other awkward places 1 To remove the accessory box grip it firmly between fingers and thumb at the left end and lift it To replace slide the box back into place until it clicks 2 With the accessory box removed the machine is ready for freearm sewing ACCESSORY BOX Open accessory box by lifting the lid up and forward as shown and you ll find a variety of accessories inside Tum next page for components ACCESSORIES SNAP ON FEET jht stitch Standard zigzag Satin stitch ey o 56483 foot
18. ad in the middle of your design Reduce the top thread tension slightly Ona very soft fabric you may want to u a tissue paper backing or organdy th can be cut away Decorative designs are very attracti sewn with a double needle and two colc or shades of color of thread APPLICATIONS Create the loveliest of custom designs your own personal touch There is much you can do by adjusting stitch width or length Below you see some applications and variations You ll find many more design ideas as you become more expert SCALLOP PATTERN A speedy and decorative way of handling amp raw edge is by using the scallop pattern Simply sew along the raw edge of the fabric and trim close to the outside of the stitching This pattern is also attractive when decorating a collar or down the front of amp blouse around a cuff or finish on the edge of a cocktail apron DIAMOND PATTERN This is a series of diamond patterns and is used to add professional touch to your sewing such as blouses and dresses Diamond on narrow hem Scallop edge finish Scallop pattern on collar Variation of width of diamond pattern Scallop and diamond in combination l 49 EAD NS UU We Qa AP mme Em Amen QR wi Domino on bles tape ARROWHEAD PATTERN A aile of arrow Heads can be used to accent your sewing Individual pattern unit i also good stitch to reinforce the e d stra Use It on the pocket corner DO
19. e 5 8 seam marking on the needie plate when making a simple seam Guide the fabric gently with your hand Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered 9 When turning the hand wheel manually always turn it toward you WI MACHINE SETTING CHART Machine settings are graphically shown in following illustrated charts select and sew a this section for your quick reference Simply variety of stitches shown below Straight stitch Straight stretch S LLL Zigzag stitch Rick rack stretch Elastic blind stitch Elastic edge stretch Blind stitch Overcast stretch Two point shell stitch Overiock stretch _ Box stitch Elasticstretch Shell stitch Serging stretch Fagoting stitch Patching stretch Mending stitch Smockingstretch F 5 WV Scsuop pattern Pyramid pattern Sp Arrowhead pattern Diamond pattem g Buttonhole Domino pattern Stitch package is different depending upon the model 20 mE l STRAIGHT STITCHING THREE NEEDLE POSITIONS Straight stitch foot gives optimum stitching but must be used at center C setting You may stitch in a left L or right R setting but be sure to use the zigzag foot STARTING TO SEW AND BACK TACKING Make sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot Lower needle into fabric about 14 inch from beginning of seam Depress the reverse stitch lever and stitch in reverse until needle reaches the point where
20. e clamp screw Presser foot release d Al Li lever SE Thread guide d Needle Thread cutter xS e Standard zigzag foot Co VAS Needle plate l P AZ Bobbin cover plate _ _ Feed dogs ___Buillt in buttonhole control Avallable depending Sege See upon model Retractable spool pin _ Bobbin winder shaft ____Bobbin winder latch RE shige angst _ Stitch width control Stitch selector Reverse stitch lever Stitch length control Speed range switch Power light switch Stitch length indicator Foldaway carrying handle Rear thread guide Hand wheel push pull clutch _ Rear thread guide NM Presser foot lever Swing awayspoolpin Nomenclature plate Foot control plug receptacle _ Foot control Foot control o p uon OFF LOW Power light Speed range switch switch SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE 1 Install your Kenmore sewing machine ina Kenmore cabinet or case or set the machine on a sturdy flat surface 2 Your Kenmore sewing machine has been thoroughly ole at the factory Be sure to wipe off the needle plate ares and bed plate carefully before sewing a garment dt ia wise to practice on scrap of fabric 80 any surplus oil is absorbed FOOT CONTROL Make sure power light switch is off Plug foot control plug into machine receptacle Then connect cord into any 110 120 volt A C wall outlet POWER LIGHT
21. eed dogs Insert bobbin case into shuttle until its groove fits on shuttle raceway as illustrated and then snap down into position Shuttle raceway Groove 2 Replace both needle plate and bobbin cover plate to their original positions 51 OILING UNDER TOP Cove PLATE OVER Remove top cover plate by loosening two ton screws A and B as shown at Kim Then place one or two drops of Kenmore sewing machine oil at each point OILING UNDERSIDE Tilt back machine and remove two bottom by loosening five screws A B C D an ILING IN FACE COVER PLATE swing face cover plate open snd oil points ndicated by arrows in illustration CHANGING LIGHT BULB The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown To replace the bulb push switch to off unplug machine and _twing the face cover plate open Push up on the bulb slightly and turn bulb to the left Withdraw bulb from socket Push in new Ibulb and turn to the right Kr 4 CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBL MS Your Kenmore sewing machine is precision Instrument designed to give you many years of troublefree sewing with minimum mainte hance If you have any pertormanc l chack the list below and you ll baal solve the problem yoursalf Stitches are irregular 1 Needle size i not correct for thread fabric SeepagaeB 3 Machine ia not threaded correctly page 11 and 12 3 Top tension is
22. et are found in the accessory box 1 Straight stitch foot 2 Satin stitch foot 3 Buttonhole foot 4 Built in buttonhole guide foot 5 Zipper foot CHANGING PRESSER FEET Make sure needle is in the up position Raise presser foot lever Snap on presser fee 1 Raise foot release lever to remove tne foot Fig 1 2 Place desired foot on the needle plate aligning needle holes Lower the presser foot lever so that foot holder snaps on the foot Fig 2 One plece presser fest Fig 3 1 Loosen presser foot thumb screw and remove the foot holder 2 Insert desired foot from the left Lower the presser foot lever and tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure For machines with presser foot lock Fig 4 To change presser feat simply drop Presser Foot Lock and slip foot away from the Presser Bar Raise Presser Foot Lever beyond the normal up position and place new foot on presser bar To lock foot securely raise presser foot lock as high as possible FEED COVER PLATE There ara a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot Place feed cover plate over needie plate aligning two pins of feed cover plate with holes of needle plate You may then determine the movement of the fabric yourself E STITCH SELECTOR All of the stitches that are made by your Kenmore machine are illustrated
23. g with several special acces sores that enable you to solve all your clothes closing problems Your built in system enables you to sew buttonholes with finished ends bar tacked by simply moving the control Only two control settings are required An Important ald is the buttonhole guide foot in your accessory box Your Snap in Automatic Buttonhole System is a Kenmore Exclusive It repeats identical buttonholes quickly and easily with no need to touch control You will find following parts in your accessory box 1 Buttonhole guide plate 2 Three templates which give you a choice of buttonhole styles and lengths 3 Cover plate with pinion gear 4 Buttonhole foot TIPS ON BUTTONHOLING Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use Try the buttonhole with the button you will use Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed Tissue paper or regular interfacing can be used Tear paper away after stitch ing For heavier weight fabrics loosen your top thread tension slightly BUTTONHOLE MAKING BUILT IN SYSTEM D e D PREPARATION Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment Place the fabric with the button marked under the buttonhole foot Pull the uide foot A all the way forward so that the ndex mark B is aligned with the graduation C with thread to rear Reproduction of the identical size buttonholes is facil
24. into needle clamp See page p E Top thread tension is too tight Decrease top thread tension Presser foot pressure is too light See edie thread breaks Machine le started too fast Start to atitch at a medium speed portly ls not threaded correctly See ga 12 Top Va tension is too tight See age pa Needle size is not correct for thread and fabric See page B i Eye of nesdie has sharp edges Replace needle There ara nicks or burrs at needieplate opening Replace needieplate or smooth burrs with extra fine Emory cloth bbin thread breaks case l not threaded correctly See page 11 Lint accumulates In bobbin case or shuttle See page B1 chine does not feed fabric foot pressure is too light See 8 D pa m Thread is knotted under fabric Feed cover plate is attached on needle plate Remove feed cover plate chine jams Thread is caught in shuttle Remove bobbin cese and clean shuttle 468 page 51 Needle is damaged Replace needie Needle plate is bait Replace needle plate Chine will not operate Hand wheal i not returned to stitching position Push in clutch Power cord is not connected Check plug Power light switch is turned off Turn on the switch p B6 YOUR SEWING PLACE I ALWAYS READY WITH SEARS KENMORE SEWINC FURNITURE Sewing machine cabinet is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general
25. itated with the aid of the graduations on both sides of the buttonhole guide foot These graduations are 1 8 left side or 2 5 mm right side SS Ze apart Graduations act as reference mark B Index mark A Buttonhole guide foot PROCEDURE 1 Switch the control to left If it is already at left set it at right sew several stitches end switch to left again before you start to sew buttonholes Step on foot control to form first bartack and left side of buttonhole 2 When you reach end of left aide switch the control to the right and complete the buttonhole ADJUSTING STITCH DENSITY Depending upon the fabrics on which you are sewing or your own preference in button holes you may alter buttonhole stitch density by varying the original stitch length setting within the blue buttonhole zone t ror me density turn the dial toward 2 A less density turn the dei toward ADJUSTING STITCH WIDTH You may adjust the width of the sides and the space in the center within blue buttonhole zone on the stitch width control as shown depending upon your fabric and buttonhole length CORDED BUTTONHOLES Hook filler cord crotchet thread or button hole twist to the spur A pull both ends of cord forward under foot and tie to the spur 8 Sew buttonhole in such a way that zigzag stitches cover the cord Fig 1 When stitching is completed release cord from foot pull ends of cord and snip
26. l D again Pass thread through lower thread guide F and needle bar thread guide G and thread needle from front to back Fig 2 and 3 Fig 3 THREADING DOUBLE NEEDLE Place second spool of thread on second spool pin and thread machine as you would for a single needie except double thread guides are provided at E and G in Fig 2 and 3 Draw one thread through each of these and through each side of needle from front to back Make certain threads are not crossed Available at most Sears retail stores and catalog 8 PICKING UP BOBBIN THREAD 1 Raise presser foot lever Hold needie thresd loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn Fig 1 2 Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread Fig 2 3 Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot leaving 3 to 4 inches ot thread clear Fig 3 l If you can not pick up bottom thread by following above steps then check 1 is needle threaded 2 Is thread tangled around needle 3 Is bobbin case threaded correctly with thread going through slots A and B oe shown on page 11 Fig 4and 5 4 is there 4 inches of thread coming from bobbin case and through slot of needie plate as shown on page 11 Fig 6 5 Is thread from bobbin case tangled Fig 1 WE PRESSER FEET This machine is fitted with a zigzag presser foot for general sewing purposes The following additional presser fe
27. lap the raw edges of two pieces of fabric 1 4 and pin or tack Place the fabric right side up with the middle of the overlap under the center of the presser foot so that the oe sews just over the top and bottom raw ges DECORATIVE EDGING Turn the raw edge under 1 4 and press Place the fabric right side up with the middle of the turnover under the center of the presser foot so that the stitch sews on to the fold and just over the raw edge underneath FAGOTING STITCH Tissue paper PROCEDURE Stitch Length 24 12 Stitch Width 4 This is a popular decorative stitch used in sleeves or fronts of blouses and dresses To attach two separate pieces of fabric together leave a little space between To prepare the fabric fold under the seam allowances on the cut edges and press Baste folded edges to tissue paper with about 1 8 space between Stitch over the 1 6 allowance just catching the fabric fold on both sides with needle Remove bastings and paper press STRETCH STITCHES Zapa foot The stitches shown at right are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics 1 Straight Stretch 2 Rick Rack Stretch Elastic Edge Stretch Overcast Stretch Overlock Stretch Elastic Stretch Berging Stretch Patching Stretch Smocking Stretch ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH Depending upon your preference in stitch ox oo EI enm Pn patterns you may make stretch stitches closer together
28. more yarn than woven fabrics To avoid tangled threads when working with so you will need to take greater care to keep knits start seams carefully Position fabric your machine clean specially in feed dog and m lower needle before lowering presser bobbin case area oot Use on stretch and knit fabrics and to repair ready made garments at stress points Basic stitch for alt garment seams requiring give i e armholes crotch aree etc Use also to sew center seam of men s neck ties and seams A basic multi purpose stretch stitch with same usage as zigzag stitch especially for lightweight stretch fabrics STRAIGHT STRETCH RICK RACK STRETCH A decorative stitch for use on yokes of blouses dress SMOCKING STRETCH Gelee KA AAA A Use to apply elastic to top of lingerie or to repair reedy Y X made lingerie and replace or restitch elastic __ELASTIC STRETCH VVVVVVN V OVERCAST OR ELASTIC a EDGE STRETCH _ 2 OVERLOCK EO al Use on sportswear where Vj seams are required Makes and finishes seams at same time Use to overcast loosely constructed knits or woven fabrics Use for overcasting fabrics that ravel or fray easily and for seams that need a great deal of stretch i e swimwear other sportswear girdles Also good looking Use for ali purpose stretch sewing seam finishing edge finishing
29. mporary sewing Y machine Zipper application cording Heng der 399 5d V uvd ve dert u nbb st Pih 25 28 Overcasting Satin stitching Bar tacking Appliquel Deel onogramm ng Button Ue Blind roli ris i lbu dct s tttbhovc vtt it tpt vevatnss DN d ruby rescindi ETC Shell sti itching eetb t evt beyecui tutvt sugdessa utntts EE 7 Box stitch IE PERREERRI Fegoting sttioh TTT LTL LL LL je Kale stitch length Straight stretch atitch ick rack stretch stitch Smocking stretch stitch Elastic stretch stitch Overcast stretch stitch stretch atitch Patching stretch stitch Overlock stretch stitch Elastic edge stretch stitch Where to use which stretch stitch A DT ses Hints on sewing different fabrics Y Buttonhole me i COMORES HED ER ED COKER ER ERED REDO RT eH EOE 42 47 Decorative embroidery designs een d BO 3 CARING FOR THE MACHINE Cleaning and ollir Bbabea bilulbbh etusetatus te t toso dbtw Bi 53 63 55 Changing light bu 654ek kuveqhoutbbesi sb uus p v etseuesc uweav sauau x 4 CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS 5b4 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE IDENTIFICATION CHART Top thread tension control Bobbin winder tension disc Take up lever Threading channel Face cover Thread guide extension table Accessory box V Press r foot thumb screw Le Needl
30. n 2 STARTING TO SEW Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine you are ready to start to sew with your sewing machine Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew 1 Check the needie it should be straight properly set and sharp on the point it should be the correct size for the fabric and being ud n not eg ares to change your n requently Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers 5 Run the machine at a slow even speed The more pressure you put on the foot control the faster the machine will sew t 2 Before placing the material on the machine see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 3 4 inches to the rear of the machine Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam 6 Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam 7 Finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point except turning a square corner See page 22 3 Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use The fabric should be double thickness Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on th
31. nhole stitch density by turning stitch density control knob 1 For more density tum the knob toward you 3 Forless density turn the knob away from you CHOOSING BUTTONHOLE STYLE AND SIZE Each buttonholing situation will be different to you will want to experiment with your garment considering fabric and placement of button Here are some basic applications Bulk in buttonholes described previously are ideal for one or two buttons used on waistband or cuff or for belt slots Straight buttonholes are most popular for everyday sewing for series of buttons on dress blouse vest jacket or coat Keyhole buttonholes sre a variation of the above with an enlarged opening at one end to allow more room for button shank These are normally used in tailored vests jackets coats ROUND END KEYHOLE STRAIGHT BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE Template 46196 46196 LE Se DA Wie ha Ww Be yrr Rn EC 47 PP lita IM Scallop Pul iul ww Domino Hs ile o oil Diamond MF MEM Arrowhead DECORATIVE EMBROIDERY DESIGNS You may get the look and feel of han embroidery infinitely faster and easier by yoi machine Just choose which of the designs you wai to Zeg alone or in combination with aac other TIPS ON DESIGN STITCHING 1 2 5 Always make a practice design on a scrt of the fabric you plan to use Start with a full bobbin and plenty thread on the spool to avoid running o of thre
32. ning Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie When sewing a flat button place needle or pin between holes of button as shown to provide flexibility for buttoning BLIND HEMMING For easier blind hemming It is recommended to use the adjustable blind hem foot optional accessory item No 6886 DAE Blind hemming is good technique to use on VVVV Regular blind stitch for garments and especially on curtains and i normal fabrics l drapery hems so that stitches need not show mjam Elastic blind stitch for soft on the front of the fabric Because your Kenmore has two types of blindstitches built in blind hemming is easier than you d expect it s just a matter of folding give it a try PROCEDURE Stitch Length 12 8 Stitch Width 14 4 Finish raw edge of fabric appropriately You may want to use seam tape on woven fabrics With knits use a lace seam tape or just use decorative stretch stitch stretchable fabrics FINISHED EDGE 29 30 Working on wrong side of fabric fold tiem up Press and pin in place Then fold hem allowance under leaving LA of hem edge extending Place garment under presser foot in such manner that dr d stitches will be sewn on extended edge The zigzag stitch should jus catch the fold of the garment Now the right side of your garment will show only the blind stitches Be sure to press both sides of the finished hem MENDIN
33. ntil it clicks Then pull Hand Wheel away from machine to disengage clutch see diagram below Start machine by pressing down on foot control When bobbin is full winding stops automatically Push in Hand Wheel Remove bobbin from shaft and trim thread end Treat hand wheel as a clutch it controls the needle drive mechanism so that when pulled out disengaged the machine will not operate while the bobbin is being wound THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE 4 Raise needle to its highest position by rotating hand wheel toward you Remove bobbin cover plate by lifting up the front Insert bobbin into bobbin csse making sure bobbin rotates counter clockwise Pull thread through slot A and then to the left 6 Pull thread through slot B toward the rear of machine and leave about 4 inches of thread 6 Replace bobbin cover plate allowing thread to emerge through slot in needle plate Ai THREADING TOP THREAD 12 Raise thread take up lever to its higheat position by turning hand wheel toward you Raise presser foot lever Place thread spool on spool pin Place al age spool cap over the spool See g D Holding thread taut with right hand draw thread through rear thread guides A and B x e threading channel C toward you g Draw thread down channel C and up channel D Thread take up lever E by guiding thread through the slot and lead thread down through channe
34. off extra length Fig 2 BUTTONHOLE MAKING USING BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT PROCEDURE Stitch Selector S Stitch Length Any number Goen Width 1 1 cover plate Buttonhole foot 1 Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot Remove accessory box and bobbin cover plate Insert buttonhole cover plate at 45 degree angle and snap it down into place pressing it against the needle plate Select correct template for type button hole you want Insert template into slot of guide plate Turn template advance knob until desired size appears in window on the top side of guide plate Place guide plate onto machine so it fits in place with pinion gear in the center of arc hole of the template Make sure guide blocks are inserted in guide slots Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment Pick up bobbin thread through guide plate by turning hand wheel Place fabric between presser foot and guide plate Align marked buttonhole with center marking on foot Line up e of fabric with graduations on both of the guide plate If you wish all buttonholes to be 1 2 from edge of fabric for example line up fabric with 1 2 markings each time you start a buttonhole Now you are ready to sew the buttonhole ou selected Your buttonholer does all or you ADJUSTING STITCH DENSITY Depending upon the fabrics on which you are sewing or your own preference in button holes you may alter butto
35. on the stitch selector You can obtain your desired stitch by simply turning the dial STITCH LENGTH CONTROL IN stitch length control regulates the length of E HIGHER THE the stitch you select TH NUMBER THE SHORTER THE STITCH The number on stitch length control indicates the approximate number of stitches per inch The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the fabric you are sewing A longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of Locis in satin Stitch patterns are color coded to recommend setting ranges on stitch length and width dials W r or patterns Blue built in buttonhole The middle range of the control is tho 12 stitch per inch range which is the most commonly used Recommended setting ranges are color coded in colors to stitch patterns on the selector dia The orange marking swe between 0 and 24 is the s ttir d for the shortest stitches such as 15 16 STITCH WIDTH NEEDLE POSITION CONTROL The width of all the stitches produced on this machine with the obvious exception of straight stitch can be made narrower or wider by adjusting the stitch width control To decrease or increase the width of a stitch turn the stitch width control dial from 1 4 The higher the number the wider the stitch Recommended setting ranges are color coded to patterns on the stitch selector dial When sewing with a double needie control
36. ore frequently used zigzag stitches on garment construction You may want to overcast along the raw edge of each seam allowance or fold the raw edge toward the garment and stitch Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling l SATIN STITCHING SETTINGS Stitch Selector Stitch Length between 0 and 24 Use Satin stitch foot which is grooved to permit dense stitching to pass under it easily Whenever you are using this stitch it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly The wider the stitch you make the looser the tension should be If you are stitching on a very soft fabric use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a wall formed stitch Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of the fabric As with all special stitches it is best to make a sample design on your fabric before starting the design on the garment BAR TACKING Settings same as Satin Stitching Choose this stitch to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie Sew 4 to 6 stitches using 4 medium width zigzag APPLIQUEING Settings same as Satin Stitching Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering the edge
37. ple m nding to deatiled gather ing quitting shining and more Includes hemmers guides and Q SET Presser feet let you attach braid insert zippers and cording NEEDLES Use KENMORE needles The size of the needie should conform with the size of the thread and both should be suitable to the fabric Kenmore needies are color coded by size for your convenience See chart below Never use a bent needle or one with a dull point At you do not have a Kenmore needle please usa this illustration to be sure your needie is the right size Distance from top of needie to neediehole should be this exect length You will find among your accessories a OQ NEEDLE with blue shank This special needie is to be used when sewing knits and nthetic fabrics If you experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing use O NEEDLE and Q FOOT Available at most Sears retail stores and catalog NEEDLE THREAD AND FABRIC CHART LIGHTWEIGHT Batiste Dimity neon Silks nua Jerseys Fine ganze Crepe Talleta V Voile Organdy MEDIUMWEIGHT Cotton KE Blends fatale Gingham Shantung Pique che Je rr Linen Wool Crepe Leather kom E Coe Heavy Tv lis Canvas f 16 PUAPLE 18 GREEN Synthetic Knits and Stretch Eis canton r Spandex Cire ire Tricot is Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Sue T RECOMMENDEO STITCH LENGTH FORMAM Core Cotton Wrap ine Mercerized Cotton Sid Polyester Core Cotton Wrap
38. ted seam where you lap one edge of a seam ove another with seamlines meeting in the center SMOCKING STRETCH STITCH Stitch Selector B Stitch Length Yellow Zone Stitch Width 2 4 1 Sew rows of straight stitches 3 8 apart Draw up the bobbin thread to gather the fabric to the required length If back ihe gathering with a strip of fabric or bias binding 2 Sew smocking stitch between the rows of gathering When complete remove the gathering stitches Note When smocking a garment the stitch ing should be dons before the piece is sewn into the garment ELASTIC STRETCH STITCH Stitch Selector H Stitch Length Yellow Zone Stitch Width 2 4 Usa this versatile stitch to insert elastic in garments Simply stitch elastic into place making sure it is evenly spaced To do this mark the correct length piece into quarters then match these markings with center front and side seams CEA AA AR A y dv TA ATATATAT AAAA r NANNY NON KE dE MEA 37 OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH Stitch Selector J Stitch Length Yellow Zone Stitch Width 4 This is the same type stitch used by the garment industry in maine sportswear it forma and finishes the seam in one operation for seams of 14 to 24 It s very effective for use in repaling raw or worn edges at older garments Note To sew overcast stretch stitch in the opposite direction use serging or overlock stretch stitch SERGIN
39. without changing the balance of stitches by turning stitch length control within yellow zone RECOMMENDATION 1 It is recommended to use the Q set for sewing knit and woven synthetic fabrics to prevent irregular stitches or skipped Stitches 2 It is necessary to use an interfacing or backing when sewing m soft and thin knits or woven synthetic fabrics to have better stitch formation 00606906000 NOTE If the reverse stitch lever is operated while sewing any of the above stretch stitches the machine sews only straight or plain zigzag stitch 36 STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH SETTINGS Stitch Selector tch Length Yellow Zone Needle Position Stitch Width C L R You may use any of the three needi positions See page 21 for directions Straight stitch foot is recommended fo optimum stitching Use this stretch stitch with knit or syntheti fabric Sew s you do with regular straigh _ stitch This is also a good stitch to use on curve seams regardless of the type of fabric An seam that will receive a great deal of strair when worn should be sewn with the stretct stitch Use in children s shorts and slacks a well as adult sports clothes RICK RACK STRETCH STITCH Stitch Selector Stitch Length Yellow Zone Stitch Width 1 4 Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that yor might use a zig zag stitch This stitch can bi used as a decorative top stitch as well It is useful also on lapped or abut
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