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Dress Shop User Manual

1. LAYOUT TOOL Center Front Besk heavy dashed line Curting line Place on Fold may nead ta be tued heavy solid line Stitch line a od laligN S accurata e aa j ME SEI match paint 7 Back slaewe match points Dart Stich lina E i Dart fold line L mme ae IL E Bust point T E E 5 E 3 E ese Shoulder seam match point Esc alus Flaat lines match points Front sleet match palrnt Bicep Eagem 1 20 26 DRESS SHOP LAYOUT TOOL The Fabric Layout Tool Once you have drafted and made the final design changes to your garment you can calculate how much fabric you will need by using the Fabric Layout option in the File menu With your garment on the screen go to File gt Fabric Layout This will load your current garment into the yardage calculator To move your pattern pieces around to the layout that you want single left click on the piece that you want to move This will highlight the selected pattern piece in red Holding the left mouse button down drag the pattern piece to where you want it Continue dragging your pattern pieces around until you get them where you want them Yardage Calculator IDEE Shortest Length Fold Options Fabric Dimensions i Pie m Bolt width E in Shortest od Length Folded Copy Flip Constraints Delete Nap Zoom In Bias Zoom Out Grid None C Stripes C Plaid C Pattem C Border C 2Borders Width Heig
2. DRESS SHOP ily of Products Fam Dress Shop Computer Generated Clothing Patterns for Women Men Girls and Boys Designed by Kaaren Hoback and Robert Clardy Programmed by Robert Clardy with Craig Clayton and Greg Hightower Illusions patterns and instructions by Kaaren Hoback Abby Rose Doll and Art Designers Marian Jasper and Alice Leverett Copyright 2002 2009 by NW Synergistic Software Inc Published by NW Synergistic Software Inc dba Livingsoft Northwest DRESS SHOP GETTING STARTED Dress Shop User Manual Table of Contents Quick Start Guide to Dress Shop oon roe rb epe pbv ru ipa eds veo a eara ave coge pd rese eod Eyre ev vve obe gb oiv dEa 6 Quick Start Guide to Doll Shop Deluxe ciickeeses ed seves ive suave iio aee o au veros ao ebvb ve us evo a2 igo vi ed ev ep vues 6 Activan PEOUUCIS oiii e niit oe ei n d dn ideo deo cedo ise cage 7 petting User PECIGEOIC S ciii eee DO EIE OQ IEEE DENIED Ie EEUU EE ORI R ees 7 Pase Set up Setting up your printer 2r oec bde aeo i eee DOi e desee Oe rei oE E denen eee Oii dese s eoe Peto i denee ds eee a neice 7 Getting Started saa e 8 VST Op Menu EL cH aeo rE ENO ESTE OOE NEE E ENO EEREN N Ea ES ONE CEINE SaS 9 N dub E A E EE E E A A A AE A AA EA E A A A AA A A A 9 C BO Sel PASSAT SUI RE RD Tn TH 9 The PU OMS INNS IU seas nests ii te RR EE a bs Deo n e n RUE EA tdeo patat g unie ene hd estates lU emet a ene NE SE ctm aU tenes 10 A Waves
3. Eid i Se Bde seme mea riis ia XEWIMEIDEXETAEIECSUDEAEEEFEXEENDSPEE T nima True the shoulders and necklines Place the back piece so the neck faces you and the hem is pointing up overlap the front piece 34 shoulder stitch line so the piece faces hem down Fold under seam allowances of the shoulder El seams and butt the pieces together Smooth the back neck curve using a pencil by eye or use i a French curve as shown This combo curve and square is my favorite but you can also get a 5 set of French curves from art supply shops if this is difficult to find em m m afa npa n a a a ah ab Match the seam lines so they are perfect If using a shoulder dart clip the dart as it will be stitched and pressed towards shoulder You now can take the front and back separately and cut away excess paper from the cut line with the shoulder seam allowance folded under This will again give you a perfect match as stitched of the seam allowance avoiding excess fabric triangles at the end of your seams Keep the shoulder dart clipped closed 30 DRESS SHOP GENERAL PATTERN PREPARATION Now match your side seam lines Remember that any fitted garment or one that is derived from a fitted garment such as Casual and Comfort fit levels will have some shaping at the waist With any side darts folded out start at the underarm and overlay side seam stitch lines together Make sure you have a perfect match up especially
4. Plus Standard Slim Bust a2 Leg Measurements save and in the resulting e n WA e j window give them a unique To remove your measurements any with the check sath aes name such as your name and 9 99e and stan agan press Ciear Bra Cup NA gt Floor to Waist Side the diro Mary Feb 2010 Measurement Set Name Waist 20 1 2 Floor ta Waist Front Misses Size 12 Abdomen 37 Floor to Waist Back You can review or change any ii jo Crotch Length Front 11 34 of these measurements at any Additional Front to Back Split time by using Size gt Load front 6 43 0 3 6 Crotch Length Back 14 5 3 Bus C C B Crotch Extension Front 346 _ dus P Crotch Extension Back l4 1 4 I Help Print Save Done lt lt Simple Measurements 11 DRESS SHOP MEASUREMENTS Because the clothing industry s standard sizes vary considerably it is sometimes difficult to know which standard size to select If you are not sure about which standard size to choose use the Measurement Wizard for a quick start Just enter a few key body measurements and the program will look up the nearest matching upper and lower body size charts that match you and adjust them to your height and inseam You can then fine tune the results in the advanced window The Measurement Wizard Select Size followed by Measurement Wizard from the top tool bar In the Wizard your first option is to select a Body Shape You
5. View and print either the right left pieces or both sides unfolded Choose to display and print 1 grid lines to easily measure your garment on screen or printed Selecting Reference Lines you can view and print your pattern with key body lines for easy reference high bust bust waist ab and so on The measurement lines are in cyan the measurement ease lines are shown in purple When you are ready to print your pattern select the Print icon The following image shows the print window with the pattern scale set to 25 showing all pieces The yellow grids indicate how many pages it will take to print the entire pattern at the selected scale The displaying page 1s highlighted in red in the grid box acre Chai i Left Click ta View c B Right Click bo Select 1 E i j Blue pages mi pint f PT J r Tiet pg Di Prim Selacted Pagels MRa that Pront F E 2 Sakei AN Clear All EN Log Heat Patan Piece or E P Saw awuct i j E Left click in any grid box to view that section of the pattern Right click to select any grid box for printing All pages that are blue will be printed when the Print Selected Page s option is selected Print Selected Pages will print all selected pages of the displaying pattern piece such as bodice front or sleeve not all patterns pieces in the garment such as front back sleeve etc Select All or Clear All grid boxes with a click of the mouse Clic
6. o Skin Gathers Empire Wrap Controls um Center Rise 0 to 2 Show lt Defaults Done Empire Waist Customizer is only available with Empire Waisted or Midriff Panel patterns For those patterns it allows you to adjust e The vertical location of the empire line Enter positive values to move that position down or negative values to move it up e Whether or not you have extra fabric above the empire line or below the empire line for gathers e Set an Empire Wrap amount where the bodice above the empire line overlaps at the center as showing in the photo at the left e Set the Center Rise amount where the empire line curves up at center for a trendy look Many of the options and adjustments provided by Empire Waist Customizer are only available with Dress Shop Pro When running Dress Shop Standard those options will be highlighted in red General Fit Types Form Fitted f Standard Fit Casual Fit C Comfort Fit Stretch Fit Types Extralight Stretch Light Stretch Moderate Stretch Interlock Knit Fashion Swimwear Horz Knit Stretch Fit Customizer Values in inches Front Bust Ease TE Shoulder Extension T4 ie lq 45 Back Bust Ease 7 15 16 Anniola Easa A 12s E Front Waist Ease i Sleeve Cap Ease Back Waist Ease Hh 1346 Bi icep Ease Acie Ab THE dawn d i Back Ease Hip Ease 2 36 Shoulder Pads Pad Thickness Show tt Defaults Done 7 16 1
7. will be Check the measuring lines in the mirror and see that they please you Adjust as needed You are now ready to measure 35 DRESS SHOP MARKING amp MEASURING Measuring Your Body Measuring Tools Have a clean copy of a new chart to write down the measurements a tape measure and pencil Check your tape measure against a grid or yardstick to make sure it is not stretched out Measure Measure to the nearest 1 8 Measure both sides of the body Take the larger measurement and write it on the measurement chart Always measure to the larger side Shoulders and the top of the hips even arms and legs may be different It is very normal for the body to be asymmetric Upper Torso Measurements Neck Circumference Measure around the base of the neck with the tape measure on the edge rather than flat Do not measure around the throat but along the marks you made for the jewel neck Shoulder Length Measure from the intersection of the jewel neck to the shoulder point Measure both shoulders and use the longer of the two numbers Shoulder Slope Front Measure from the marked shoulder point to the center front at the waist Measure both right and left and use the longer measure Hold the tape taut as you measure Shoulder Slope Back Measure from the same shoulder point to the center back at the waist Across Shoulder Front Measure from shoulder point to shoulder point making the tape taut Across Sho
8. 5 8 Center Seam Allowance fr 1 Hem Width 2 Show It Pants Length Selection Values in igh full C bermuda gp crop 6 C jamaica capri f C sharts toreador pedal pusher knee 6 From Floor Ta Hem 16 1 8 Show It Defaults Done C shoty shorts C Use Floor To Hem Amount Sleeve Options Values irm ines fo Added length or 5 Select Type of Sleeve Ma sleeves Straight Darted Gathered Shitmaker Raglan Stretch Raglan Dolman Kimono Batwing Lantem Bishop Bell Circle Puff Ruffled Select A Length C Mo sleeve C Cap sleeves C Short sleeves C Elbow length 3 4 length Full length in Length Adjust Select A Cuff Hem C Standard Square C Elastic C French Square C French Pointed Ribbed 2 Cunt VVidth o Button Overlap Show lt Defaults Dane Adjust Sleeve Shape Cap Ease 11556 Bicep Ease fo Battom VVidth i Hem Width bo o Vent Height Pattern Settings Set your seam allowance hem width and facings preferences here Available pattern settings will be determined by the garment selected Length Options The Length option will allow you to select the length of your garment The Length Selection window will have different settings available depending on the garment you are working on Sleeve Options Select the specific sleeve type you wish Add design changes to your selected s
9. Overlay the stay piece on the front pattern piece Match the stay to the shoulder and armhole area the stay shoulder represents the finished shoulder line Note how wide the blouse cowl front is compared to the stay The stay will hold the cowl drape towards the center pushing the excess width in towards center The extra is what forms the cowl or drape The raised neckline of the cowl will fold inwards to the inside of the garment creating the draped cowl effect when completed 3 M r r Nox Ie Bete j i ad A 1 a j MEA 7 EN T ri 7I Fiar MM 72 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES Layout The front piece may be cut on the bias rather than true long grain You may add a center front seam allowance and layout the pattern as a single lay flipping the pattern over print side down Cut each half of the front separately and sew the two fronts together This will create a chevron effect 1 e V depending on your fabric s texture Alternatively you can create a seamless front by folding the corner of the 1 fabric back on itself to provide a fold line on true bias Use that fold to lay the half front pattern piece on the fold line This may have a noticeable one way tilt to the bias grain of your front fabric The back is cut on true long grain on the fold Prepare and finish the lower edge of the stay by using an over lock zigzag or fold up single turn hem Prepare and finish
10. 1 16 nuo 1 15516 fi 14 Fit Customizer allows you to adjust your pattern for differing fabric types knit stretch woven slinky etc for your intended use of this pattern dress occasion casual occasion relaxed fit for lounging etc and finally for specific fit needs that you have biceps or thighs that expand more than typical for instance First select the general fit type form fitted standard fit casual fit comfort fit or one of the stretch fit types All default ease amounts suitable to that fit type are set for you Then only if you need it you can adjust the ease at any particular body location that you believe needs a bit more or a bit less breathing space Many of the options and adjustments provided by Fit Customizer are only available with Dress Shop Pro When running Dress Shop Standard those options will be highlighted in red 21 DRESS SHOP PRINTING The Complete Pants Customizer The Complete Pants Customizer Click here to read about making Career Pants Values in inches Jeans Shorts Work Waist Position Options Front Dart Takeup U fo P Classic 7 High Waist No Front Darts ELT i NN Boat Cut C Classic C Matural Waist 1 Front Darts 5 ront Dart Lengt Tapered C Relaxed Mid Rise 2 Front Darts Back Dart Takeup o Straight Loose Low Rise C Back Dart Length o Wide C Ultra Low No Back Darts f1 Dalaso C Stretch Fit Types Ba
11. 8 1cm From right side stitch seam allowance in place on the garment parallel to the neckline seam or twill tape Edge stitch the twill tape to the trimmed collar seam allowance only Keep free of the garment Start and finish the twill tape within the placket so that the ends are stitched in later Edge stitch the other edge of the twill tape to the garment enclosing the seam allowance 64 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES If twill tape isn t available in the right size I used 1 2 in this sample you can use any of the following bias binding self fabric binding grosgrain petersham or satin ribbon although probably not for men s wear Complete the placket Pin under lap back in place Stitch in the ditch or edge stitch on the placket to catch the placket facing on the wrong side Pin the overlap back in place This can be fiddly Edge stitch in place duplicating the finish from the under lap side Topstitch if desired With the garment lying right side up on the table fold the front back on itself at the placket line You will see the triangle from the original slash and the rest of the placket which needs to be stitched in place Pin through all layers Stitch and trim excess fabric On the right side stitch across the placket about 4 6mm a presser foot s width away from the base of the placket towards the neckline 65 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES A Funnel Neck by Bobb
12. ADJUST MEASUREMENTS Check Across Chest If the arms curve too far into the body the sleeves will be uncomfortable when set in Check Bust Depth and Span Note where the bust point hits you then answer the following questions Is the bust point in the correct location vertically You may have to move this mark if you made any adjustments to the outside shoulder seam Is the bust span correct It should be centered in the middle of the breast This 1s an important point it sets your darts on the pants and skirts as well as the tops Make sure you are comfortable with the location Re mark and adjust measurements if necessary Here are a few of the more common problems and their solutions Common fit problems and likely adjustments 1 Too tight across shoulders Most likely adjustment The Across Shoulder in front back or both needs to be wider It 1s possible that only one of the measurements 1s off but since they are connected at the shoulder seam the other measurement may just seem like it may be too narrow check both measurements before arbitrarily moving both out The Across Shoulder measurements define how wide the garment gets to be in the shoulder area so increasing the shoulder length by itself will NOT correct for too narrow tight shoulders Although once the Across Shoulder in front back or both have been widened it 1s possible that a longer shoulder length will be appropriate and so this area should also be adjust
13. Adjust values then test with Fit Test Pattams before you make real doll clothes To a clear chart press Clear Doll Measurements Al vates in nchea Orso Meast Center Length Front FTE nts Across Shoulder Front 1 Shoulder Length Across Shoulder Back 2 1 Shoulder to Wrist 3563 Bust Depth Bust Under Bust Bra Cup Waist Abdomen Hip Help Print Bicep 1438 Front Armhole Depth T5 Back Armhole Depth TE eg nieasuremaent Floor to Waist Inseam Mid Thigh 2 875 Crotch Length Front 4 375 Crotch Length Back 1688 Crotch Extension Front fo 383 Crotch Extension Back 0538 Load cse Done If you adjust any of the values in this chart select that entry box and click on the Help button at the bottom of the chart for a detailed picture and directions for how to take that measurement Section of this user manual titled Taking Doll Deluxe Measurements also describes how to measure Once you have done your best with the tape though you may have to adjust a few values further based on the fit of the Fit Test patterns If the waist 1s loose reduce the waist measurement and try again There really is not easier way to fine tune these numbers Dolls are small and the precise way that each person holds the tape and how close you can get to the proper location on your doll just vary slightly from person to person and hand adjusting just cannot always be avoided If you have done
14. Bets Kos nigel Io RIMIS NERO REN 10 A AE D NIS lbs aces wo ete en ei v Edessa aM uu o MM E RM A LM 10 Measurements TTE TEILE 11 The Measurement WIZIE iia cot eee eer dic E HE Det on o D TH eL edes 12 The Easy NOIKGIr Tum 13 The Complete Measurement C Dt oer e cic oseanen nas E obe c cct oe pu Pub anais Co eese ov sane Coo oo pure voee Ee aneian 14 lumi iw Gar meO nt desee canes sadccuceseccidessudaeteeses cases sciccucesecassesausaeteesvs cease aceaccusseccseaoousaeus 15 GAGS a BACCO EW S ioiioc eei Diplo ois Ead Wied ei ede Eu eL evel eoo a EI SIE i bv EU FW VOITURE EE EU ee Du OUS 16 Fatteri OD TO e 17 Patteri o nilo eU n 17 Lensth OOD DI Le r r M M 17 Sleeve ODUN I 17 Necklime ODUOUS aieo a Eod e OI dd Dei IH dedu desi iva qe eee adem 18 Closure ODLOIS 3 5 iet ere ie o pb p m eb tdi i bb tni bids 18 IBErasc nucum e P M A 19 Shaping and Finish Opmons ce tA 19 Vent Piat or Godet OD GOS de M M 19 Extra Pattern Pieces ODUOHNS iiio ee Diei aandie ee Diode ee eni oie ae oaea rian ERO 20 Option Summary Rep Onl P M 20 PVCS Iro cem 21 Empire Waist UStODIIZGE eei dee e
15. Front Dart Length Side Dat Shoulder Dart Back Dar Length fa Elegant Dat Back Dart Separation 0 Fench Dat ma Back Center Seam Dart Bust Dart Width French Dart low C Adda Shoulder or Center Seam Dart Bust Dart Angle o JE Bust Dart Offset fo Edit the look of your garment with a Low French Dart Enter the desired width length angle and offset of your Show It Defaults Bone darts Available options for editing your darts and pleats will be determined by the currently selected garment Many of the dart adjustments provided by the Dart and Pleat Options dialog are only available with Dress Shop Pro When running Dress Shop Standard those options will be highlighted in red Fitted Shirt Shaping and Finish Options Values in inches Shaping and Finish Options Flat Hamline a fo Adjusted length in front Curved In Front Only lo Adjusted Length in back trains Curved in Front amp Back C p Set or adjust the shape of the hemline flat curved Cure ta chen a Added length at center for the curve Shit Tail C shirt tail with or without ribbing and much more Ribbing C depending on the garment Increase or reduce the flare of the skirt Show It Defaults Done Available options will be determined by the garment selected Settings for Vent or Pleat Inserts Veios pn ghai Front Back Vent Pleat or Godet Options M it i i amp 1 How high sho
16. Woman Inseam Floor to Waist Front straight Floor ta Waist Back straight Floor to Waist Side Floor to Waist Front conformed Floor to Waist Back conformed Floor to Hip Floor To Knee Floor To Ankle Floor To Hem Upper Thigh Mid Thigh Knee Calf Ankle Ankle Heel t pin tra f Front Armhole Depth E 1 2 13 Tid Elbow 12 Bicep 113 1 2 Elbow Depth Back Armhole Depth 612 Overall Arm Length 21 Around hand IB12 Wrist evz To remove your measurements and start again press Clear Hew Help Print Load Save Save As Draft Done For assistance in getting your measurements done properly use the Help on Measurements link at the top of the chart or refer to the Measurements section of the User Manual 14 DRESS SHOP MEASUREMENTS Fit Test Garments Fit Test Garments Under the Size menu you will also see the option for Fit Test Garments There are four test patterns slopers EIE TM MATERIE ipsc quenenc maris drafted with almost no ease to verify your measurements The drafted with almost no ease and is designed to be very close fitting The patterns get closer fitting as you move patterns used for Fit Test Garments slopers are down the list The bodice is essentially Skin tight A Casual blouse no waist darts that drafts to hip level A fitted pant that drafts to waist level The Torso Garment is a fitted shirt that drafts to the hips The B
17. all you can with this chart and still have some fit issues that you are not satisfied with you can view and edit every body measurement value that Doll Shop Deluxe uses using The Complete Measurement Chart 13 The Complete Measurement Chart DRESS SHOP MEASUREMENTS When you are ready for more advanced control over your patterns the Complete Measurement Chart allows you to enter all of your personal measurements that Dress Shop uses for a completely custom fit for all of your garments Use the Size Complete Chart option to access the measurement chart Complete Measurement Chart Help on Measurements Measurements Name Kaaren Sept 24 Last Updated October 21 of 2009 Heck Circumference 15 1 8 Shoulder Length l4 5 16 Shoulder Slope Front Shoulder Slope Back Across Shoulder Front Across Shoulder Back Across Chest Across Back Full Length Front fass Full Length Back 16 12 Center Length Front TITE Center Length Back 16 Bust Front aus Bust Back 19 1 2 Bust Depth High Bust Bust Radius Under Bust Front Bust Span 18 11 12 1 2 14 1 8 DL prem F m T I side Length High Waist Front High Waist Back High Waist Offset Waist Front Waist Back Abdomen Front Abdomen Back Abdomen Depth Hip Front Hip Back Front Crotch Length TE Back Crotch Length 15 2 9 16 4316 Front Crotch Ext Back Crotch Ext Pants Center Back Waist Dart Body Type
18. can choose Misses Women s Men s Girl s Boy s or Children s Once you have selected the body shape you will enter 5 basic measurements into the chart and DS will find the standard size closest to the measurements you have entered Height Enter the total height measuring from the floor to the top of the head Measuring at the fullest part of the bust enter the total circumference Enter the total circumference of the waist Hip Measuring at the widest part of the hip keeping the tape level to the floor enter the total circumference Inseam Measure from the crotch to the floor Measurement Wizard From 5 standard measurements we ll fill in the rest All szalues m inches Select Body Shape Misses l Enter basic values and press Enter Height leo 1 n Bust 36 Waist 3 Hip 3 9 Inseam 29 To remove your measurements and start again press Clear Measurement Set Name TO AES Misses Size B Help Sav D Advanced gt gt Measurement Wizard E Save Done Advanced gt gt From 5 standard measurements we ll fill in the rest All values in inches You can then further edit the determined Siesta iun i oos Misses enter hanger un Shoulder Drop measurement set by selecting the Advanced Enter basic values and press ein Should Shoulder Length Cross oudder 13 button Here you can verify and or edit any Enter Front AL TENER measurements that you know need to be Height 60 1 2 eu ee Bus
19. circumference If order to get accurate measurements you will need to stand straight and natural It 1s not possible to remain upright and erect and get accurate measurements Getting a chart Go to File Settings and click Show Complete Measurement Chart If using inches set to inches and decimals If using metric set here Go to Size and Complete Chart When the complete measurement chart comes up you may need to select Clear New to remove any measurements that are in the chart Then print the blank chart so you can fill it in Marking Your Body The goal is to mark the primary seam lines such as armholes jewel neckline and side seam placements Equipment For marking your body you will need the following items e Washable felt marking pens two colors e Tape measure 3 if you have them e A notepad or scratch paper e Marking and Measuring instructions e Measurement chart e A length of thin elastic to tie at the waistline What to wear Wear the foundation garments bra and panties you normally wear Do not wear a swim suit leotard camisole or other loose garment over the foundation garments The looser the garment the more the marks will shift and be inaccurate The person who is being measured should assume an erect stance and then relax take a deep breath let it out and keep the head up and chin pointing straight ahead 34 DRESS SHOP MARKING amp MEASURING Neckline The jewel neck is loca
20. ease before spending your fabric The very powerful tools you have at your disposal within the program allow you to try things you have never seen in commercial patterns You have many more options with any Dress Shop designs than you ever could have with a commercial pattern Some of the brightest ideas simply won t work well for you They are fine in concept but fail the reality test Plan plan plan Check and double check You are designing and you are the one making the decisions Plan your decisions and keep track of them by using the pattern summary option found under file Write text notes in the free form text field Print all patterns with the reference Line and amounts on This gives you landmarks to map your journey Tools and notions required Paper scissors Colored pencils You may find that all new cut lines can be done in red and all measurement lines in green pencil so you have consistency with all your patterns A French curve A seam gauge An 18 clear ruler I use one with very large numbers for ease in seeing Binder clips also known as bull dog clips Another handy tool not mentioned in this article 1s blue low stick painters tape I often use it to attach pattern pieces to each other to build a pattern in the round to try on Additional copy paper pattern paper cheap interfacing to trace off pattern bits Regular tape single hole punch available from discount and office supply stores First take great ca
21. loai atn addant Matte rapta o Pes ctoNd 44 Common fit problems and likely adjustments eeesssssssisssssssssssseeeen nenne nennen eene s nsns inna nas 45 How ToMake Your Pants Sloper Elba o SERE COO RERUM epu MM 46 d iisgitugir utc 51 Constructing and Adjusting the Pant Fit Garment cc ccce ecce eee ee ee eere ee eee eee neon eaon 57 Construcune Neckliles 2o eio OO EID EE NNI RR 61 A Polo rd der 61 A Funnel Td qe A 66 A PUTCO CK dure EEE 70 wen foqeec e M 72 Cons UCN oiie aE A EREE O EAE ERE 74 Th Darted SlCOV Cs E 75 The Two Piece odor T 75 FUIraE niiddiE 2f P 76 software License and Limited Warranty 5ieeeseeeesactense cue bo eee tex eeu ao aae Vaca eua eeu eb Ke aea ase Re ves a eU eu eeE 79 IS e P 82 DRESS SHOP GETTING STARTED Dress Shop Welcome to the pattern designing software created with discriminating sewers in mind Dress Shop DS not only includes patterns to get you started but also lets you choose which additional patterns design features and options you want Every pattern is custom drafted to your design
22. machine and let the feed dogs do the easing for you Work in small sections and only line up the edges of fabric for about 1 2 inches in front of the presser foot Your sleeve is done and ready to attach to the blouse Cuff at wrist If you will be making the cuff at wrist begin by sewing the long curved seam to the bottom edge of piece number one There will be some easing as you match a curved seam to a relatively straight one so try to put the one curved seam against the sewing machine bed This allows the feed dogs to do some of the easing for you Work in small sections and only line up the edges of fabric for about 1 2 inches in front of the presser foot T TT Now sew the underarm seam from armscye to bottom of piece 1 Match seams needle down lift presser foot and pivot fabric continue on to cuff Sew the cuff seam closed making sure it will fit around your hand Press fold right side out press again and attach cuff in the round to the bottom of the sleeve Your sleeve is done and ready to attach to the blouse 78 DRESS SHOP LICENSE amp WARRANTY Software License and Limited Warranty This NW Synergistic Software Inc End User License Agreement EULA is a legal agreement for the Dress Shop Software Product in which this EULA is contained which includes computer software and may include associated media printed materials and online or electronic documentation collectively
23. positive ease will make the pattern looser and negative ease will make it tighter But not always If your ab measurement plus requested ease is less than the hip measurement plus ease there are cases where the pants will not snug up as you might wish To see what 1s going on click the Ease button while looking at your pants pattern You will see the hip and ab lines displayed Those lines are the width of your measurement plus requested ease If the ab line does not reach the outseam then that measurement is not affecting the shaping of the outseam at all In that case making it smaller and smaller will not change the pants This happens when the outseam curve 1s smoothed out between hip and waist and the ab line 1s enough inside the resulting curve that the outseam cannot hit your measurement without producing a snaky side seam that would both be unattractive and hard to sew In this case to tighten up the ab you need to make the waist darts longer That will make them wider at the ab level They will then take up more fabric at the ab level and help correct the loose fit Look at your dart depth and ab width in both front and back to determine whether you should adjust the dart depth in the front the back or both Does not fit right at the hips Hip Ease as set on the Options page can make your pants tighter or looser in the hips as you prefer 48 DRESS SHOP HOW TO ADJUST MEASUREMENTS Does not fit right at the crotch Ther
24. price you paid 1f any for the Software Product at which time your rights under this EULA are deemed to have terminated or b repair or replace the Software Product The Limited Warranty period for any replacement Software Product will be extended for the remainder of the original warranty period or thirty 30 days after the replacement Software Product is delivered to you whichever is longer If your license 1s for an Evaluation Version your exclusive remedy for any breach of this EULA including a breach of the Limited Warranty shall be to terminate your rights under this EULA Your remedies described in this paragraph are your exclusive remedies and shall not be deemed to fail of their essential purpose so long as Livingsoft 1s willing to repair or replace the Software Product or return the price you paid for the Software Product LIMITATION OF LIABILITY To the maximum extent permitted by applicable law in no event shall Livingsoft or its suppliers be liable for any special incidental indirect or consequential damages whatsoever including without limitation damages for loss of business profits business interruption loss of business information or any other pecuniary loss arising out of the use of or inability to use the Software Product even if Livingsoft has been 80 DRESS SHOP LICENSE amp WARRANTY advised of the possibility of such damages In any case Livingsoft s entire liability under any provision of this EUL
25. sizes do not have to be the same Adjust the Height and Fullness options that best describe your Build Standard Sizes Find the standard sizes you think best fit you ANH values in inches Body Type Upper Body Size 12 Lower Body Size 12 Misses Womens Men s Height C Tal Standard Petite Fullness Pius Standard Sirm Boy s Children s Tn move your mea4uremens any with the check mark nest t them amd star agam ores Char Measurement Set Name Misses Size 12 You can then save your measurement choices or further edit your selections by selecting the Advanced option Help Save Done Advanced gt gt In the Advanced window you Standard Sizes van edit your selected Blase Find the standard sizes you think best fit you This 1s where you can edit All values in inches measurements that you know Body Type nao Measurement Ann Measurements U Height 60 1 2 Shoulder Dro are non standard such as Misses a 7 2 Center Length Front 13 1 2 Shoulder Length bicep bust or hips When you ES C ans ee Upper Body Size 12 Across Shoulder a8 Shoulder to Wrist change a measurement it will im of Front Lower Body Size 12 Bicen be marked with a O Once you eee dins E c i have made your adjustments UNE Hm eee HM Height Tall Standard O Petite Bust Depth 3 39 Back Armhole Depth to your measurements select DF Fi T Fullness
26. the Software Product between you and NW Synergistic Software Inc doing business as Livingsoft Northwest Livingsoft By installing copying or otherwise using the Software Product you agree to be bound by the terms of this EULA You must indicate your agreement to be bound by the terms of this EULA by pressing the I ACCEPT button on the Software Product s installation program or else you will not be able to install the Software Product If you do not agree to the terms of this EULA you may not install or use the Software Product you may however within 30 days of your initial purchase of a copy of the Software Product return the entire copy of the Software Product including all computer media packaging and documentation either to Livingsoft s Customer Service department or to the retailer from which you purchased the Software Product for a refund of the amount indicated by your sales receipt for the Software Product in which event your rights under this EULA are immediately terminated If you are installing the Software Product on a computer that is not owned by you you are bound to the terms of this EULA both in your individual capacity and as an agent of the owner of the computer and your actions will bind the owner of the computer You represent and warrant to Livingsoft that you have the capacity and authority to enter into this Agreement on your own behalf as well as on behalf of the owner of the computer the Software Product is be
27. to avoid shrinkage when the finished garment is cleaned Steam or Press flat noting the ideal pressing temperature a s Lay out your fabric and allow it to relax before laying out your pattern pieces It is important that you find the true long and cross grain Make sure to take the time to check the fabric grain and line up the pattern grain line to the fabric grain line The grain lines on the pattern should run the same direction as the grain lines on the fabric If you place your pattern piece on just a slight angle the fabric may grow and stretch Long side seams may pucker Here I have marked the long vertical grain the cross grain and even the true bias grain For most of the patterns you are creating do not use bias for your main pattern pieces Place your pattern pieces down so the pattern grain line 1s along the true long or vertical grain Avoid the possibility of a permanent fold line on center seams by offsetting the fabric fold Do not attempt to use the selvage edge of your fabric as a finished seam edge The fabric is more tightly woven in the selvage and when you wear and clean the garment you may get some puckering or distortion Often it s best to lay your fabric out and let it just relax a little while If the fabric 1s very slippery make a sandwich with plain white tissue under and on top of the fabric Place the pattern on top either pinned or weighted into position Once the pattern 1s laid out and secured cut t
28. upper mark under the arm If you have this measurement too short the pattern will pull up at the side seam If you have it too long the program will either give you an error message or will angle the side seam down away from the waistline If it 1s too long the program will not have enough room to put in your armhole Cap height plus side seam cannot exceed the full length Abdomen The front abdomen should not be smaller than the back The front is almost always bigger even on small children and skinny people If yours is not you do not have the side seam in the correct location You have it too far forward on your body 42 DRESS SHOP MARKING amp MEASURING Crotch The crotch length in the front should not be larger than the back If you don t have the crotch split in the correct location you will have the front bigger than the back This will give you a pair of pants with a large front leg and a small back leg Normally the only time this is appropriate 1s for pregnant women Inseam The inseam is frequently taken too short Make sure you follow the leg when measuring not straight down to the floor The tape should touch the bottom of the crotch Measurers cannot be shy This is often the cause of a short crotch measurement 43 DRESS SHOP HOW TO ADJUST MEASUREMENTS How to Adjust Your Measurements To get the best possible fit from the garments that you make with Dress Shop it 1s critical that you adjust your m
29. when you have used the shaper tool for asymmetric hems The princess and panel items should also have the side to center panels matched up and smoothed as necessary The Sleeves Walk the sleeve stitch line pattern print side down to the bodice print side up Start at the underarm and walk towards the shoulder point and cap apex When you get to the arm hole markings on the pattern hole punch through BOTH bodice and sleeve so you have exactly identical marking points Continue on up to shoulder point You should run out of arm hole before you run out of sleeve make a pencil mark on the sleeve Repeat for back You now have a sleeve with the exact amount of cap ease easy to see The numbers on the sleeve data which show both armhole length and sleeve length front and back detail the cap ease but this way is visual Facings Facings may be an issue especially if you have adjusted the neckline or used the shaper or closure tools Lay the facing on the piece it 1s to face Clone the neckline armhole of the fashion fabric to the facing You can adjust facings widths Use the options tool To make an interfacing for the facing you can reprint it using a different seam allowance or none Enter 0 to eliminate seam allowances Make sure to clearly mark the piece as interfacing Clone the interfacing to the facing You may also draw your interfacing lines on the base fashion fabric pattern and then trace it off onto pattern paper inexpens
30. A shall be limited to the greater of the amount actually paid by you for the Software Product or US 5 00 Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you SITE LICENSES The owner of the computer that you are installing the Software Product upon may have entered into a broad license agreement with Livingsoft governing the use of certain Livingsoft products including this Software Product To the extent that the owner of the computer has entered into such an agreement that specifically states that it governs the use of the Software Product on computers owned by the owner then any conflict between that agreement and this EULA shall be resolved in favor of the terms of that agreement but otherwise this EULA shall simultaneously govern your license to the Software Product 81 Index Abdomen eere e eee neue 35 38 42 48 49 60 Abdomen Depth ensi ete rin IUe E eve Paene ers esee 38 Across BACE iiio d o oi ot Ee rete 36 PROTOSS C DOSE uinci ee i ORE 36 42 45 Across Shoulder 36 42 45 46 activate ie e iE eva ete Ene Pere in indies 6 AE eee Cis u secet dod ves Cetus c Vae a eoa E eve vue ud ense b vua VP ag Tes 39 PAV MINION i iE ERE HEIN 35 39 45 46 Around Hand oie CEPI ees 39 Bicep ys ee EHE HEP IE US 11 39 BodV Shape ciil aiia 11 12 BUS aerei E S E N E 12 35 37 38 45 Cent
31. SCRIA preferences Here you will select measurement preferences jas Default seam allowance size printing and display options Click in the boxes for your enter zero for none choices and all marked choices will be activated You can change your User Preferences at any time by using the File gt Settings option Page Set up Setting up your printer Page Setup Paper ly Source Automatically Select Orientation Margins inches fe Portrait Lett 05 Right 05 f Landscape Top O75 Bottom 075 Cancel Printer Your Dress Shop directory is c Program Files Livingsoft DressShop These settings may be changed at any time using Ihe File manu SeBings talian Use the File gt Page Setup option to get your printer ready to print your patterns Here you will verify that the correct paper size margins and printer are selected Dress Shop uses your Windows default printer If you have more than one printer connected to your computer verify that you will be using the correct printer Additionally you will need to set your margins Most people have an easier time with this step if they use multiples of a quarter inch or even numbers of centimeters All entries in Page Setup should be decimal not fractional values In order to insure that the entire pattern prints properly each sheet must draft to match what your printer is set up to print If your printer is using 8 5 by 11 paper and ha
32. The following items represent the most common measuring mistakes If you have problems with the fit of your pattern review the guidelines below You should correct all measurement mistakes through the test garment process Across Shoulder The across shoulder is measured from outside shoulder point to outside shoulder point Frequently it is placed too far in on the shoulder If the placements of the shoulder points are too far in on the shoulder then the sleeves set in too high the sleeve pulls across the top of the arm and frequently the neck doesn t fit properly Just as often we see people placing the shoulder marks too far out trying to create the effect of drop shoulders Full Length The full length measurement in the front should not be shorter than the back The front of the body has the bust to cover while the back goes straight down If the front is shorter then the shoulder point at the neck is too far forward The shoulder seam will be very visible from the front of the garment The possible exceptions to this would be men and children Center Length The center length is always shorter than the full length The center length is measured from the base of the neck in the center front and back The side of the neck at the shoulder is always higher This mistake 1s usually made at the center back neck causing it to stick up Shoulder Slope If the shoulder points are not in the proper position before measuring the sh
33. arranty lasts so the above limitation may not apply to you To the maximum extent permitted by applicable law Livingsoft and its suppliers disclaim all other warranties and conditions with regard to or arising out of the Software Product express or implied including but not limited to implied warranties of merchantability fitness for a particular purpose non infringement and or accuracy of information The Limited Warranty is void if failure of the Software Product has resulted from accident abuse misapplication use of the Software Product other than as described in the documentation issued by Livingsoft use of the Software Product in combination with other Software Products that are not described as compatible in the documentation issued by Livingsoft or your breach of the terms of this EULA This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from State to State No individual except a duly authorized officer of Livingsoft and no reseller or retailer has any authority to amend or add to any of the above representations and disclaimers YOUR REMEDY Your exclusive remedy for any breach of the Limited Warranty is for you to give us notice of the breach by returning to Livingsoft care of wherever you purchased from a copy of your purchase receipt for your copy of the Software Product and a description of the alleged breach and then at Livingsoft s option Livingsoft shall either a return the
34. at use the Import Measurements option to get a fresh copy of your old charts DRESS SHOP GETTING STARTED The Options Menu provides additional options for your patterns allowing you to create multiple garments from a single pattern You will use the Options menu to edit the patterns that were included with your program along with any future patterns or collections you purchase Select your garment length options for sleeves such as style of cuff or no cuff Edit the shape and depth for your neckline adjust the ease in your garment add pleats edit darts or add pockets Pattern Settings You can create many new looks from your purchased patterns by using the Options Length menu Neckline and Collar Closure Only the Options that work with the currently displayed garment will be Darts and Pleats cd shaping and Finish Review and print out your selected design changes using the Options Summary Vents and Inserts Set your preferred seam allowances hems and facings widths in the Pattern Settings Extras Be sure to review the Options section of this manual to learn how to use these tools Options Summary The Design Tools Menu provides more in depth design tools that you can use to customize your patterns even more Each tool is specific to some Princess Line Customizer effect or type of garment and provides options settings and adjustments for that Ruffies Flounces amp Peplums fea
35. bility is that tight shoulders most often caused by a narrow Across Shoulder measurement see 1 above occasionally caused by a too short Shoulder Slope measurement The slashing technique making vertical slashes in places that look tight in the garment is invaluable in hunting down the problem area for this problem because otherwise it can be difficult to find If you are able to slash and release pressure in the affected area you should be able to shift the bodice back to the correct position and it should stay there Then you can measure the gapes in the slashes to figure out where the garment needs to be changed 4 Bodice too tight at the waist This problem is caused when you have a wide place just above your waist Measure above the waist for all upper body garments giving yourself a high waist measurement instead of a regular measurement 5 Mysterious other Think about it and don t be afraid to try different things There are occurrences where the program is hitting all given measurements accurately it almost always does where you have taken all your body measurements accurately and double checked them to make sure and gotten the same results and something still doesn t fit These occurrences usually happen because someone has some bumps or curves or even dips in areas that are not covered by the many measurements we take in Dress Shop If you have a situation where for instance your pants are too tight even though you ve trip
36. bodice sloper fits all of the other blouse dress coat and Jacket patterns in Dress Shop should fit also with the expected differences that the pattern types might suggest To get the bodice sloper to fit correctly you should adjust your measurements Do not try to get a good fit by playing with ease settings or other sewing options The sloper should only be adjusted by changes to your measurements When those are right you can use the other option settings 1n Dress Shop to vary your individual garments fit in a more creative fashion The Dress Shop bodice sloper will be drafted to as close an approximation of your entered measurements as possible When you assemble your bodice sloper you should be checking Check the Shoulders e Do the seams lay flat e Do the seams hug the shoulders smoothly e Are the seams in a good place on the shoulder Are they close to the physical top of the body without going behind the anatomical center of the shoulder Does the end of the shoulder seam that comes up against the neck leave a reasonable amount of back neck curve and front neck curve e Is the outside shoulder point in the center of the arm e If you get down on eye level does the shoulder seam appear to be parallel with the top edge of the body Now look at the bust and waist e Is it too tight across the bust e Is it too tight across the back e Is it too tight at the waist e Is it too loose anywhere 44 DRESS SHOP HOW TO
37. c in the outseam below the hip This is generally not a crotch curve issue but an outseam shaping issue Use the thigh ease settings on the Options page to adjust this Positive values will move the outseam outwards and negative values will pull it inwards snugger You can set Mid thigh ease or Upper Thigh Ease depending on where you need the adjustment Only one form of thigh ease will be in effect at a time though So pick the one you need and just set it Excessive fabric in the inseam but not in the crotch itself The inseam shaping can be adjusted with the Knee Ease setting on the Options page As with all the ease settings positive values make that area looser and negative values make the measurement smaller and the fit tighter So 1f you enter a negative inch or two at knee ease the inseam will be snugger Crotch rides too low Crotch depth is too tall Making the inseam measurement larger will help Or making the Floor To Waist lower You should check your measurements here before you change either of these at random Pants are too tight in the crotch There are two possible causes for this problem Either your crotch length measurements are too snug Or you have specified a short crotch extension and it was not possible to generate that short a curve without sacrificing some of the specified crotch length If you have set crotch extension try a larger number If you have not set a crotch extension value then you probably ne
38. ch extensions adjusts the width of the body as the i pant passes between the legs Adjusting the crotch length raises or lowers not only the curve break point but also the actual extension Adjusting where the curve starts on the crotch fork is adjusted using the curve break point Finally in the Dart Tool you can adjust the angle of the back crotch fork by making an entry in the center back waist dart area This is the ultimate refinement and must be reserved for when you have a real pattern on screen For an example load a fitted pants pattern Under Options select dart and center back dart As you change this angle increasing or decreasing you will modify both the darting effect at the waist and the entire shape of the back crotch fork 59 DRESS SHOP FIT TEST GARMENTS Here are some photos showing what s wrong with a pant fit garment and how to correct it The out seam must be straight It is a continuation from the bodice side seam to the floor The waist level split front to back is okay The abdomen and hip splits are both off leading to this rather extreme curve Taking inches from the back and adding them to the front will correct this problem This lady has a tilted waist so her floor to waist back should be taller than the front Here the floor to waist front is okay but the side is a little short and the back is very short This is a mild example of skirting where the crotch length fro
39. choices and your body measurements Design and purchase only the patterns you want Start with the Measurement Wizard or Standard Sizes charts All patterns work with all sizes The best way to learn the Dress Shop program is to play with it Once you have activated your program set your User Preferences and have set up your printer become familiar with the menus and icons in the program referring to the instructions below Instructions on using the many tools and features to further refine your garment designs along with detailed sewing instructions are provided in the Help menu and in the following pages of this User Manual Quick Start Guide to Dress Shop Your Fit Test Garment is the most important step to getting that perfect fit Please read through the following steps which are designed to get you up and sewing quickly 1 From the Size menu select the standard size closest to what you need Use your bust and hip size to determine the size to select The upper and lower body sizes you select do not have to be the same Don t worry about getting that perfect fit in the beginning Start with a better than ready to wear fit then fine tune after you have a good starting point 2 Once you have selected your size return to the Size menu select Fit Test Patterns then Casual Blouse There are several other fit test patterns that you can get to later but let s start with this one to get the basics righ
40. ck Darts C pt Flared s Extra Light Level Adj 0 2 Back die _ Front Pocket Height H2 5 8 liom Moderate MS Front Pocket Width 5 34 leated E Very Stretchy Mo Waist Treatment Pocket Opening Ht 6 Princess Line C Mo Closure Pocket Opening Wd 2 Compare zT Full Length Length Adjust fo Hemmed Bottom Ha Vent Inseam Front Pocket No Hip Pocket Coin Pocket Leg Pocket I Belt Loops TTT mA Defaults Tool Help Done The Complete Pants Customizer includes 57 pants foundation patterns divided into Active Casual Career Jeans Shorts and Work pants categories Clicking on the category tabs at the top will display the list of basic foundation patterns of that type in the leftmost panel Owners of Dress Shop Standard will own 4 foundation patterns only Dress Shop Pro owners receive an additional 4 With purchase of the Complete Pants Customizer tool you will own all 57 of the foundation patterns The Pants Customizer includes every setting and option available for pants pattern including fit types ease settings waistline levels darts pleats yokes waistbands length hem style and vents A wide assortment of pockets including the Slenderizer Pocket an ingenious style that can comfortably flatten the tummy in addition to providing storage is available At the top left are additional tabs that revise the right most panel to display options for ease fit adjustments and patter
41. crotch curve must fit in the space provided by depth and extension So if the crotch length is long this seam will be more curved If it is too long you may get extreme curving perhaps even a J hook effect where the curve dips below the crotch tip Generally that is not good and you should either Reduce crotch length 2 Increase crotch depth 3 Increase crotch extension Major tools to get the right fit include Waistline tools for the front you can have one dart two darts a princess line or elastic in the front of your pants The default setting 1s elastic If you choose waist darts their width will be calculated for you based on the difference between your waist and hip measurements Also as the curvature of the out seam is adjusted to make it a smoothly sewable curve the waist width may be extended in the flat pattern and the waist dart width expanded to compensate The princess line 1s a flexible way to adjust the fit of the entire leg as you wish The basic dart intake needed at the waist 1s included in this split But you can also trim along the split to adjust the shaping of any part of the leg as you wish Waistline tools for the back you can have different choices for waist darts in the back if you like Your pants may have darts in the front for a fitted look but with elastic in the back to keep the waistline snug for instance Having no princess line in the back so you do not have to sit on the seam is another p
42. d return the feet so they are side by side Pull the front tape up to the center front waist and note the measurement Pull the back tape up to center back waist and note the measurement Now pull the center tape to the floor Make sure the feet are fairly close together and that the tape is not caught between the thighs Give it a tug Use this tape to measure the inseam Now add the front and back measurements and compare the sum to the total measurement you took first If the total 1s different measure again because the tape slipped in the process Arm Measurements Armhole Depth Front Measure the bicep circumference first right under the arm Start with this simple formula bicep 3 35 then divide by 3 14 front armhole depth You may adjust this by small fractions as needed Example bicep circumference 12 12 plus 3 35 15 35 Divide 15 35 by 3 14 4 88 Round up to nearest 1 8 so armhole depth 5 Back Arm Hole Depth Start with a number 1 inch larger than the front armhole depth Adjust as needed for a rounded back or forward tilting shoulders Bicep Measure the total circumference of the upper arm at the bicep right under the armpit m Over Arm Length Measure from the shoulder point to the wrist with the arm slightly bent and the palm of the hand facing the tummy Elbow Depth While the arm is in the same position as for the over arm length measure from the shoulder point to the bend
43. der angle is quite steep and because she is so slender the shoulder line actually dips in the middle There is no straight ride line to support the garment In order for the garment to fit the higher shoulder it s too long on the shorter shoulder The shoulder angle does need to be decreased but more importantly the shoulder line needs support Shoulder pads are in order to give that shoulder a straight line for the garment to rest on In addition because of the shape of the bust line the dart needs to be angled That change cannot be done on a fit test garment but can be done on a real garment Even with the blouse unfinished the lady clearly got here from there Shoulder pads have been added and the fit 1s evident Even beautiful women have fit challenges The goal is not a perfect fit test garment but good fitting garment patterns The fit test garment is the base block for good patterns The fit test garment will not look like a commercial pattern 55 DRESS SHOP FIT TEST GARMENTS Here is a balanced test garment and a balanced fitted shirt from the same user FSS Slits PHS SaaS LPS PED pm Bodice Sloper Front Right Measurements plus ease violet lines Bicep Ease 2 00 Fitted Shirt Front Riaht Back You can see how ease is added lengths are adjusted and side seam shaping is developed 56 DRESS SHOP FIT TEST GARMENTS Constructing and Adjusting the Pant Fit Garment Th
44. e are a number of ways to adjust the crotch fit The easiest to use was described above the Total Crotch Extension Limit If that is not appropriate for you there is one setting on the Options page Crotch Ease adjusts the measured crotch length and 6 settings on the Advanced page to let you adjust this further You can adjust the relative split of crotch length from front to back shorten the crotch length by a fixed amount adjust the inseam length shorter inseam causes a taller crotch depth which in turn reduces the crotch extension Excessive fabric in the front or back between the legs this 1s the most common problem with pants and is a generally caused by either taking too loose a measurement when you measured your crotch length or from the stretch that inevitably occurs with fabric on the bias The first step in eliminating this is to set the Total Crotch Extension Limit If you get too tight in just the front or the back then you should go to Options Advanced Front Crotch Extension Limit and Back Crotch Extension Limit Adjust the front and back extensions separately Other adjustments that can affect front excess fabric include a Removing some crotch length in the front There is an adjustment in the Advanced Options just for this b Shorten the inseam see Advanced Options again This makes for a taller crotch depth producing a shorter crotch extension and hence less fabric at that level of the pattern Excessive fabri
45. e key to great fitting pants 1s adjusting and balancing the crotch area The test pant is based on a slim fit pant model The pattern consists of two pieces front cut 2 and back cut 2 Pant options are not included Prepare the pattern lay out and grain up your fabric Cut out the pieces and transfer all marks and darts Front Mid Thigh 9 427 Front Knee 7 17 Front Calf 6 507 Slim Fit Pants Front Right To Construct Simplified Version You may use other construction techniques as desired e Carefully sew all darts e Sew the center back seam Sew the center front seam starting 7 8 inches below the waist and extending through the crotch point Fold back the open seam allowance and press so that you can pin the pants closed e Sew the front and back together at the outer seams Sew the front and back together at the inseam sewing from the hem up Note that there is a inch inseam ease allowance which makes the back inseam inch shorter than the front Ease this amount in the top 5 6 inches of the inseam What to look for 5 The out seam side seam should run straight from waist to ankle If the garment is incorrect adjust the front to back splits of waist and hip measurements gt The pant should feel snug but comfortable s There should be no wrinkles which indicate excess fabric or puckers which indicate that the pants are too tight around the body or in the crotch z You should no
46. e the end of the shoulder seam backward 3 Bodice shifts back on the body placing the shoulder seams too far back There 1s no most likely adjustment for this one There are a number of different possibilities that might be causing this problem The simplest is that the front and back full length and shoulder slope measurements need to be adjusted to bring 45 DRESS SHOP HOW TO ADJUST MEASUREMENTS the shoulder seam forward However this 1s the least common cause of the garment shifting problem You can tell if the measurement of the shoulder seam was off if you check the waistline on the bodice If the bodice waist is in place in front and back the garment isn t really shifting back at all the shoulder seam was merely mis marked or mis measured most likely both If however the front waistline 1s higher than it should be and the back waistline 1s lower then the shoulder seams may be correct and the problem may be found in another part of the body The most common cause of this fit problem is a too tight measurement and the problem area can be in many places on the body One possibility 1s a too tight back underarm which could be caused by a too short Armhole Depth measurement or a too long side length measurement Another possibility is that the garment is too tight across the chest or across back area check the mid armhole area or too tight across the bust or bust back area check bust high bust and bust back Yet a third possi
47. easurements here so that they are optimized for Dress Shop In some cases these may need to be slightly different from the measurements that you use in your own sewing or with other tailors or seamstresses That is not wrong Measuring the human body is a subjective effort with different ways to reach the same end result So you need to be willing to change a measurement if 1t does not give you the results you want in Dress Shop This help file will offer some guidelines but in the end you must adjust your measurements until they suit your taste So do not be afraid to change them The final means to determining whether your measurements are right for Dress Shop patterns 1s to make fit test garments slopers The bodice sloper will confirm all of the upper body measurements and the pants sloper will confirm your lower body measurements Please refer to some of the other articles for additional instructions on adjusting measurements and working with your fit test garments If you are not able to resolve your fit concerns with the advice outlined here visit the Dress Shop discussion board for advice from other users mentors and company staffers The discussion board can be reached from your Dress Shop Help page home page or Help Central Good luck and happy sewing How to Make Your Bodice Sloper Fit Your bodice sloper is intended to help you confirm that your upper body measurements are correct as Dress Shop needs to know them When your
48. ed Other measurements to look at for possible adjustment if you are changing the Across Shoulder measurements include front and back Shoulder Slope Bust Depth Armhole Depth Elbow Depth and Overarm length In other words when you start moving the shoulder point which 1s what happens when you change the Across Shoulder measurements in front and or back all the points which are measured off that shoulder point need to be double checked as well 2 Shoulder seam seems crooked one end of the seam swings back or forward on the shoulder Most likely adjustments If the end of the shoulder seam at the neck edge is too far back a very common measuring mistake you need to decide how much the seam needs to be moved forward and subtract that amount from the Front Full Length measurement and add the same amount to the Back Full Length measurement If the end of the shoulder seam at the neck edge 1s too far forward on the body less common you need to decide how much the seam needs to be moved back and add that amount to the Front Full Length measurement and subtract the same amount from the Back Full Length measurement If the end of the shoulder seam where it intersects the armhole 1s too far forward or back you need to similarly adjust the Front and Back Shoulder Slope measurements take away from the front measurement and add to the back measurement to move the end of the shoulder seam forward or add to the front and take away from the back to mov
49. ed to increase your crotch length measurements or add Crotch Ease on the options page Crotch seam is too far forward giving you an inseam which is also too far forward on the pants The default amount for the split of your Body Depth measurement into front and back crotch extensions 1s probably incorrect for your body shape You can adjust this by moving inches from Crotch Length Front to Crotch Length Back to move the inseam forward or from back to front to move the inseam backwards Side seam is too far forward or back Figure out how much the seam needs to move forward or back if it is off by 4 inch on each side then the adjustment amount is a total of 1 inch and add or subtract that amount from the front and back waist measurements front and back abdomen measurements and front and back hip measurements If the side seam is too far back add the adjustment amount to the back and take away from the 49 DRESS SHOP HOW TO ADJUST MEASUREMENTS front If the side seam is too far forward subtract from the back and add to the front If the side seam 1s only off 1n one of these areas you can adjust one area without changing the others Pant legs too baggy Body Depth measurement is probably too wide Make sure you are taking the measurement correctly Stand in a corner if you have no empty corners in your house stand with your back to a closed door this effectively creates a corner with the length of wall that allows the door to open fu
50. efautts Done DRESS SHOP PRINTING Ruffle Flounce and Peplum Design Tool allows you to add embellishments to any of your patterns at the neck wrist hemline or closure When you run your mouse over the Types of Adornment photos illustrating each option will appear in the rightmost panel As you select any type the center panel will display all settings and adjustments suitable for that option Be sure to read the reference article about ruffles flounces and peplums for a more detailed illustrated discussion Yoke Customizer Tool allows you to add a yoke to most blouse dress pants skirts coat jacket or loungewear patterns Different yoke styles are available for tops versus pants and skirts The settings in the right panel allow you to customize your yoke varying the basic placement as well as the shape of the yoke line You can widen the pattern below the yoke to provide for gathers Many of the options and adjustments provided by Yoke Customizer are only available with Dress Shop Pro When running Dress Shop Standard those options will be highlighted in red 23 DRESS SHOP PRINTING Printing Patterns DS uses your default Windows printer for printing your patterns Patterns can be printed on standard 8 2 X 11 paper fanfold paper or if you have a plotter the large sheets or rolls of paper Use the File Page Setup to configure your printer and paper size accordingly
51. eight of your pockets and pocket entry belts and fly Available options will be determined by the currently selected garment Option Summary Report Keep a record of the design changes you have made to your patterns by printing out the Options Summary which is under the Options menu When you are happy with your design changes select Options Summary add special comments and keep track of the changes made to each pattern Dress Shop Pro Done Options Summary for the Fitted Shirt Created on October 21 of 2009 Comments Print Summary This if the shirt I made for mom on Mother s Day Summary of Modified Values Feature Original Nen sleeve Cuff Width 2 3 Hem Width 1 2 Length Default Ab Sleeve Full length Short oaleeve Type otraight sleeve Straight sleeve Sleeve Length Adjust 0 2 20 Design Tools DRESS SHOP PRINTING The Dress Shop design tools are much more advanced ways to customize your pattern The notes here provide a brief overview of each tool but you should review the tool help provided with each tool for more detailed descriptions and examples Empire Waist Customizer For Your Empire Waist Waisted Dress Values in inches Click here to read about empire waist options and settings Waist Level Adjust o o Adjust empire position Bodice Gather Options Front Waist Only J Back Waist Only g Bodice Gathars Skirt Gather Options o o Front Waist Only D Back Waist Only
52. ent is too tight Wrinkles point at the problem point while puckers start at the problem How to adjust the pattern Using the test fit garment pin out any excess wrinkle and measure the amount you pinned out Adjust the affected measurement line on the chart If the garment is too tight cut a slash line in the opposite direction of the pucker line The slash will allow the garment to spread open Measure how much it opens and add that number to the proper measurement line If the dart wears too high or too low on the body mark where it should be and adjust the bust depth accordingly After adjusting the chart click save and load then done Now print another 1 4 scale set of pattern pieces Overlay the new printouts on the original 1 4 scales to make sure that the changes you made result in what you expected Once you have a reasonable fit to the casual fit blouse you can proceed to making casual fitting garments that will provide a working wardrobe If you wish to make more fitted garments we suggest that you also make the torso sloper which has full waist darts and is very snug A fit test garment is a non garment whose sole purpose is to check the placement of the shoulder side seam darts and general fit While the bodice test garment depicted in the pictures below is our most fitted testing garment we suggest you start with the casual fit blouse garment which is not as snug There is some ease in the armhole and ge
53. er back 35 36 37 39 42 52 54 57 59 63 Center front 35 36 38 39 40 42 47 51 52 53 57 61 63 67 73 Center Length Back eere 37 Center Length Front ine eerte eoe 37 TIERE T 18 23 31 53 66 67 Closure Options soisista iiaia iaiia 18 Gub Seinri ia 18 Common Measuring Mistakes 42 Complete Pants Customizer 22 Constructing Casual Blouse Fit Garment 34 INS CRIA S uci eet ta Nd toutes esed US 61 DEEV OS siiin dtd Mate ed aah eae eceeseentcs 74 The Pant Pit Garment eo eene 57 WOUP PACES ht RP P eaataee 24 Crotch 12 39 43 47 48 49 50 57 58 59 60 Crotch Length Front outcomes 39 De ER 19 47 48 59 Desipen Tools reinari 21 Design Tools Menu eee eene eee eee 10 ease 8 10 15 21 22 24 29 30 31 32 44 46 47 48 49 51 52 53 54 56 57 69 74 75 76 FU OW dbiuj c M 39 Empire Waist Customizer 21 Extra Pattern Pieces Options 20 EX c 9 Fabric Ea3y0Ut 2u ue rie er nororiente 27 Fabric Preparation osccccccosiccscccsvacssacznesdcessteecetawcsss 33 File uini 6 9 23 27 Fit Cus COmiz e unuara 21 Fit Test Garments e eene 6 8 15 16 Pull E noth Back iioi tiene ee coo P a 37 Full LenothE ront e
54. five grids down while the front only shows four This 1s because the back pant pattern is generally longer than the front even if only by 1 4 inch The program will think that all of the pattern will fit within these pages while your printer will not allow it Increasing your margins will resolve this situation If you are going to be using Banner or Continuous Feed Printing you will need to select the option Print AII print by columns not rows in Settings under the File menu Because your default printer settings are used go into your Windows Printer Properties and set your paper for fanfold 8 5 X 11 or USSF for wide carriage printers and tractor feed In the File gt Page Setup menu in your Dress Shop program set your Top and Bottom margins to 0 Set your side margin to 50 or minimum allowed If you find that your targets do not print at this setting increase your side margins Besure that you have the latest print drivers for printing banner or continuous feed in Windows XP 23 DRESS SHOP PRINTING Constructing Your Patterns If you are printing on single sheets it is easiest to work from left to right matching the targets then down to the second row and again left to right Targets will print on the right side of the first strip left and right sides of remaining strips Targets should be exactly 3 apart Top and bottom lines of the patterns butt up against each other Trim off the bottom of the sheet jus
55. he fabric pieces Cutting can be accomplished with a good pair of dressmaker scissors or with a rotary cutter and mat Immediately transfer your notches and darts using chalk dressmaker transfer paper graphite paper or hand basting with a bright contrast thread You may wish to use a dot of low stick painters tape to mark the right side of each piece to avoid confusion later Tracing wheels come either smooth or with teeth Smooth wheels are less harsh on your pattern Various brands and price levels are available Whatever method you use make sure the marks are not permanent eH Now is the time to stay stitch neck and armholes if you feel they may stretch out with normal handling Keep the fabric pieces with the pattern pieces until you are ready to use them You are now ready to construct your garment 33 DRESS SHOP MARKING amp MEASURING Taking Dress Shop Measurements Marking and Measuring The following pages will walk you through the marking and measurement process for the complete chart of 62 measurements Be sure to follow the instructions and take the measurements exactly as shown to and from the same measurement point First mark the body with a washable marker then use a tape measure you are sure is accurate Tape measures stretch over time and this can cause inaccurate measurements You will need an assistant to do the measuring Your measurements will be taken front and back separately not total
56. he terms of this EULA and to re register their product immediately with Livingsoft The recipient must report what Software Product they purchased and from whom so the seller s account can be updated accordingly You may not transfer activation codes sometimes referred to as keycodes as those contain customer account information and could result in personal liability to you for purchases made by the recipient When a Software Product is transferred activation codes should be destroyed and new activation codes will be provided to the new owner when they re register Upon the occurrence of such a transfer your rights under this EULA terminate immediately LIMITED WARRANTY The warranties and disclaimers described in this paragraph are collectively the Limited Warranty Livingsoft warrants to you and only you that the Software Product will perform substantially in accordance with the accompanying documentation if any for a period of sixty 60 days from the date of original purchase of a license to the Software Product from an authorized retailer or directly from Livingsoft or the date you have obtained authorization from Livingsoft or an authorized retailer to convert an Evaluation Version to a Full License Version in each case the Purchase Date Implied warranties on the Software Product to the extent required by applicable law are limited to sixty 60 days from the Purchase Date Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied w
57. high circumference halfway between upper thigh and knee Knee Straight Measure around the knee at the center of the kneecap 40 DRESS SHOP MARKING amp MEASURING Calf Measure the calf circumference at the fullest part of the lower leg Around Ankle Heel Point the toe to the floor with the heel slightly raised Measure around the ankle and heel Derived Measurements Front Crotch Extension Back Crotch Extension and Center Back Waist Dart are all calculated for you by the program The default values may work fine But if you need to adjust these you can enter any other values that you choose and those will be saved with your chart and used thereafter Adjusting these values 1s an advanced sewer s feature and should be done either based on your prior experience with other pants or from discussion with and advice from someone experienced in adjusting the fit of pants Go to file settings and show complete chart If you are using inches set to inches and decimals If you are using metric set here Go to size and bring up a new complete chart Carefully type in your measurements Be sure to use decimals not fractions Take the time to proofread your numbers for accuracy This is a conversion chart of fractions to decimals 1 8 inch 0 125 Y inch 0 25 3 8 inch 0 375 1 inch 0 50 5 8 inch 0 625 34 inch 0 75 7 89 inch 0 875 4 DRESS SHOP MARKING amp MEASURING Common Measuring Mistakes
58. ht Update If your pattern pieces are laying in the wrong direction use the Rotate and or Flip options that are located in the upper right of the screen to rotate the piece that is currently highlighted in red When you have your pieces laid out click on the Calculate Shortest Length button at the top of the page Yardage Calculator Shortest Length a Calculate Shortest ja Length Fabric Dimensions 45 in Update Bolt Width Fold Options C Flat Rotate Folded Copy Flip Constraints Delete Nap Zoom In Bias Zoom Out Grid None C Stripes C Plaid C Pattern C Border C 2Borders Width Height Print Exit Under Fabric Dimensions you can change the width of the fabric to match what you are using Simply enter the width of your fabric followed by the Enter key zy DRESS SHOP LAYOUT TOOL Yardage Calculator You can lay out your patterns on RUNE Shortest Length Fold Options Fabric Dimensions e Flat Rotate Unfolded or Folded fabric Bok wih 60 in Update 7 1 704 yd C Folded Select Nap or Bias if needed JF RENNES E F R ore P Y Bi amp L Dorset Delete Ifyou are working with stripes Le a p on a T EE idt Nap c plaids or border prints enter the Wl gists ss eed m height and width of the print and zsz das Irc e EUR n Ereann Tern select Update prior to laying out ESI Wi Fe BEB your pattern pieces Then
59. i Jo Nichols Pattern description The funnel neck has a fold over facing and usually does not require a closure It may be associated with many different silhouettes from a princess armhole dress floor length dress in stretch velour to a polar fleece Jacket a cardigan with a front opening or a blouse or shirt For a nice neckline use fabrics with excellent recovery or bounce back to original shape after being stretched A funnel neck can be constructed in a woven fabric but it will be cut on the bias and requires a back zipper These tips will be for sewing a sweater knit funnel neckline Most sewing books have directions for the more advanced technique of inserting a zipper in a bias cut neckline This Funnel Neck Knit shirt by Bobbi Nichols was made in a medium weight stripe sweater knit Fabric choice Knits such as interlock sweater slinky or any knit with Lycra etc will work Woven fabrics will need to be a medium weight and should be CUT ON BIAS to stand firmly NB Since knits vary greatly in the amount of stretch they have it 1s important to be sure that the neck opening you draft will go over your head Drafting your Funnel Neckline For this Funnel Neck I selected a Casual Knit Shirt and selected the funnel neck The straight un tucked hem was also chosen Using the Options menu I changed the seam allowance to 1 4 To serge this shirt you do not need the 5 8 seam allowance If you are us
60. ines and Values and back to Measurements Off Clicking on the down pointing arrow will display the Measurement Display menu options Reference Pattern Icon Toggle your sloper Fit Test Garment to display under the garment you are drafting to compare ease Clicking on the Reference pattern icon displays the following Reference Off Sloper with no adjustments Foundation Pattern Pattern with zero ease Clicking on the down pointing arrow will display the Reference Pattern menu options DRESS SHOP GETTING STARTED G View Pattern Icon Clicking on the View icon will step through the views of Right side Left side Both sides unfolded and then back to Right side Clicking on the down pointing arrow will display the View Pattern menu options H Show All Pieces Displays all of the pattern pieces for your garment I Front Only the front pattern pieces will display on the screen J Back Only the back pattern pieces will display on the screen Pattern Name The Body icon l zo mozzr rm The Top Menu Bar Sleeve Only the sleeve pattern pieces will display on the screen Facings Only the facings will display on the screen Extras Only your selected Extras such as pockets belt loops waistband etc will display on the screen will change the body size of the model Use the solid colored icon I to display solid colors on the selected garment Use the fabric icon Hl to display variou
61. ing a knit that tends to roll you will want to be sure and use a 4 seam allowance Use the neck tool to select a lower neck depth such as 2 below the jewel in the front and 1 below the jewel in the back If using a woven fabric please use the neck tool to widen the neck width and depth and add a little more in the scoop width box Even with a knit many people prefer to open up the neck a bit by using the neckline tool Please read the How to Use the Neckline Tool article for Funnel Necks For other design options you can select your desired width for a soft scrunchy funnel using the scoop neck values 66 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES Cutting out your Casual Knit Shirt with Funnel Neck If you are making your funnel neck in a knit cut with the greatest stretch going around the neck If using a woven it is advisable to cut on the bias in order to achieve a nice stand If you desire to have the front on Bias you must add a seam allowance to center front You may elect a Zipper closure on the design menu or simply add a seam allowance after printing if you forgot it Check the fabric and mark for true bias grain The pattern pieces are placed on bias as a single lay cutting through one layer Place one piece on the bias print side down the other print side up in opposing angles so the pattern if any will chevron down the front When cutting out a striped fabric I always fold both selvage edges towards the ce
62. ing installed upon For purposes of this EULA the owner of a computer is the individual or entity that has legal title to the computer or that has the possessory interest in the computer if it is leased or loaned by the actual title owner COPYRIGHT The Software Product 1s protected by copyright laws and international copyright treaties as well as other intellectual property laws and treaties All title and copyrights in and to the Software Product including but not limited to any images photographs animations video audio music text and applets incorporated into the Software Product are owned by Livingsoft or its suppliers GRANT OF LICENSE The Software Product is licensed not sold Subject to the condition that you are in compliance with the terms of this EULA a you may install and use one copy of the Software Product or any prior version for the same operating system on a single computer for use by a single simultaneous operator and b you may install a single copy of the Software Product strictly for your own personal use on one portable computer owned by you No other use copying or distribution of the Software Product is permitted You may not rent the Software Product nor may you offer use of it to others through a service bureau or application service provider If you are installing this copy of the Software Product as an upgrade update patch or enhancement of a prior release of the same Software Product which was instal
63. ive sew in interfacing or something from carriff com they call sewing fabric I call it dynamite inexpensive pattern paper When doing a lining back piece for a jacket there 1s a default action pleat set for three inches which you can adjust Make sure to fold this out as it will be stitched before doing any back neck facing piece True the lining to the facing which you may wish to gentle the curve on Remember any changes you make are at the STITCH LINE then true the cut line for the seam allowance You have now completed the pattern preparation for any blouse dress pants or skirt If you find a mismatch on pattern pieces e Double check that your pages are taped correctly at precisely 3 apart on the registration circles e Double check that your pages are aligned square at top and sides Where we have consistent issues with seam allowances on curves please double check they have all been trued to your desired seam allowance width e Check you haven t forgotten to fold out a dart such as the shoulder dart e You may find that when you change a neck depth or width the facings don t necessarily change accurately When you are doing a shawl or wing collar match the collar extension to the back neck edge it should be 1 8 inch longer for turn of cloth ease Adjust as necessary for your fabric weight 3l DRESS SHOP GENERAL PATTERN PREPARATION If you prepare the pattern take some key measurements against your kno
64. j i i I i i Q 1 j i l 1 II j f 1 ee 1 j T li i l I xi Lll i n mu A O LI ix Hay XEmadde s Freak Gees Paus Nagle Printer Icon The Printer icon takes you to the Print screen to print out an owned pattern Patterns that are being previewed may not be printed The red X on the print icon indicates that printing is disabled for this pattern The red X will not display on patterns that have been purchased Set Scale Clicking on the Scale icon will step through the scales of Auto Fit to screen 25 50 and Full Scale and then back to Auto Click on the down pointing arrow to display the Scale menu and select the size you want Grid Icon The l inch or 2cm grid can be turned on or off using this icon Use the grid to measure your pattern on screen in any scale Measurement Display Icon This icon will let you view the measurement reference lines and amounts on your pattern The Reference Lines Only will display where your measurements are in the pattern bust waist ab hips etc Lines and Values will display the reference lines along with your measurements indicated with a dashed Cyan line plus ease that is in the garment indicated with the Violet line Each click on the Meas icon will step through Measurements Off Reference Lines Only L
65. k to view the Next Pattern Piece of the garment Use the Sewing Instructions button to view and or print out the sewing instructions for the current pattern Select Done Printing to clear the print screen and return to the main window 24 DRESS SHOP PRINTING When you select Full Scale the grid will change to show how many pages will be required to print the pattern Print all of the pages or just the pages you want By using the Select All option all pieces are highlighted in blue selected and ready to print by using Print Selected Page s This will print all of the pages of the displaying pattern piece The page that 1s displaying on your screen will always be highlighted in red You can click through the grid to view the different sections of the currently displayed pattern piece Or select just the pages you want to print by single right clicking on them to mark for printing When you have all your pages marked select Print Selected Page s Now that you have a pattern you are ready to print you need to be sure that it will fill the page the way you wish it to You may want to print out a test page to verify that you have done the Page setup properly If you are not satisfied with the results then go back to the Page Setup and correct the settings If you find that you are missing the very bottom edge or side of a pattern increase your margins This often happens when printing pants The back pattern may show
66. ke Quick Start Guide to Doll Shop Deluxe The Dress Shop patterns and features should all work for doll sized measurements Standard doll charts can be found in the Doll Charts folder when you use File Load Measurements To make your own Abby Rose doll see File Make Your Own Doll Select each feature and print the directions you need Use the Help buttons there for additional directions Art for all facial features 1s provided for several hand sewing as well as for a number of automated embroidery machines The Make Your Own Doll help article provides additional directions Activating Products DRESS SHOP GETTING STARTED Dress Shop Standard Settings When you run Doll Shop Deluxe the first thing you should do 1s activate it so it can print From the File menu select Activate Products Enter the email address and o P Use inches with factions password you used when you purchased The program will Use inches with decimals check your account on line and activate whatever you C Use centimeters own All owned patterns will be copied into the MyPatterns folder Those patterns may be printed You Enable scroll bars can also enter activation codes manually if your sewing Draft for a plotter computer does not have an Internet connection Print by columns not rows w Show pattems in color Setting User Preferences ag uc EN Use the File gt Settings option to set your program for your n Depa n gw 0o TE
67. l the back measurement lines are drawn on The horizontal lines in order are across shoulder across back chest back bust and waist The vertical line 1s the full and the angled line is the slope The key culprit is the shoulder point being too far out on the shoulder This leads to the slope being very long which in turn causes the horizontal wrinkles The slope is the diagonal measure from shoulder point to center back waist This needs to be shortened Once the shoulder point and slope are corrected the entire back falls into place In this test garment the waist darts pointing at the bust apex are angled The bust span is off leading to the angled darts Reducing the span straightens the waist dart When the span is correct the dart length will be corrected Once again we see the shoulder asymmetry One shoulder is more steeply angled than the other and one shoulder is actually longer than the other In fact it is evident on most of these pictures You must measure to the longer shoulder it is bone and isn t going to compress It s barely noticeable here but most women also have one breast larger than the other That can compress but should not Deal with breast size differences in the construction of your garments Simply shortening or lengthening a dart by 2 3 stitches on one side usually help 54 DRESS SHOP FIT TEST GARMENTS Here we have a very slender lady with a large bust line Note that the shoul
68. le checked your ab and hip measurements it may be that your shape isn t quite as we had planned for in our curve shaping algorithms However there is always a solution You can insert vertical slashes along the bust or shoulder levels front and back to see where the pattern needs to be wider to make it fit you snugly but not tightly Then make the adjustments to your measurements Do not worry that these aren t your true measurements Just know that these are the measurements the program needs to make a good fitting pattern for your unique body And do make up another test pattern from the adjusted measurements to confirm that you ve made the right changes How To Make Your Pants Sloper Fit Your pants sloper is intended to help you confirm that your lower body measurements are correct as Dress Shop needs to know them When you pants sloper fits all of the other pants patterns should fit also with the expected differences that the pattern types might suggest To get the pants sloper to fit you should adjust measurements Do not try to get a good fit by playing with ease settings or other sewing options The sloper should only be adjusted by changes to your measurements When those are right you can use the other option settings in Dress Shop to vary your garments fit in more creative fashion Dress Shop pants will be drafted to as close an approximation of your entered measurements as possible When you assemble your pants sloper you sho
69. lection Values in inches Closure Op tions Top Full Closure Options Top Short Closure Options mmm M n Placket Width No Closure C Short Front Zipper eles ere cim Lat Doe chm Asymmetric closures Select the closure you want whether it s a full as J Full Front Button C Short Front button placket D Width at Top Full Back Button C C Short Back button placket 5 Width at Bottom front button or short back teardrop placket Front Zipper C C Short Front keyhole placket Dron from T Back Zipper Short Back keyhole placket OF Side Zippar C C Short Front teardrop placket i0 Rise from Bottom Set placket height or width Buttons on both shoulders Short Back teardrop placket Available closure options will vary by garment type Show It Defaults Done Some of closure selections provided by the Closure Option dialog are only available with Dress Shop Pro When running Dress Shop Standard those options will be highlighted in red 18 DRESS SHOP DESIGNING Dart and Pleat Options Dart and Pleat Options Values in inches Front Waist Dart Options Back Waist Dart Options Settings Ho Waist Dart Mo Waist Dart Front Dart Width One Waist Dat One Waist Dart all combined m Back Dart Width Two Wast Dats Two Waist Darts all combined Change the Dart styles Remove them or add how many and where you want them Side Bust Dart Choices Back Dart Choices
70. led on the same computer your rights under the prior license agreement for the Software Product are terminated and all of your use of the Software Product including its prior versions are solely under the terms of this license agreement LIMITATIONS Except to the extent such a restriction is unenforceable under local law you may not reverse engineer decompile or disassemble the Software Product The Software Product is licensed as a single product and its component parts may not be separated for use on more than one computer You may not modify amend or create derivative works of the Software Product TERM If the Software Product that was distributed to you was labeled as an EVALUATION VERSION or TRY amp BUY VERSION or its functional equivalent an Evaluation Version the license granted under this EULA commences upon the installation of the Software Product and is effective for the longer of 30 days following the date you install the Software Product or the first 20 uses the Evaluation Term Evaluation Version Software Products may include software code intended to disable their functionality after the expiration of the Evaluation Term You may take no actions to circumvent the operation of such disabling code and you accept all risks that might arise from such disabling code If the Software Product was not distributed as an Evaluation Version or if you converted an Evaluation Version installation of the Software Product to a non E
71. leeve Add a cuff style Adjust the sleeve shape 17 DRESS SHOP DESIGNING Neckline Settings for Standard Necklines Values in mches Select neckline type Selectfront neck Select A Collar Neck and Collar Settings Standard Mecklines Jewel C No Collar m Neck Opening Width Casual Mecklines Vee C C Straight Collar With Stand Added Front Neck Depth High Necklines Wide Necklines Added Back Meck Drop 7 Square C Square Mandarin Collar Scoop C Rounded Mandarin Collar i 3 Bare Shoulders Sweetheart C Basic Collars Back Collar Width Tigo tars 0 Collar Stand Width Select back neck Button Down Collars Jewel 311203 te ts Wee C Peter Pan Collars Scoop C CT C2 C3 C4 5 Square Shaw It Defaults Dane Halter Necklines Wrap Style Necks Shaw and Lapel Necks Asymmetric Necks Cowl Mecklines Sleeveless Necks Bow and Tie Necklines i ai Neckline Options Select design options for the Neckline and Collars Which neck types are available depends on the pattern Raise lower or extend your neckline opening Change the look of your neckline Add a collar with the click of the mouse Available options for Necklines will depend on the neckline selected Some of neckline styles provided by the Neckline Option dialog are only available with Dress Shop Pro When running Dress Shop Standard those options will be highlighted in red Blouse Closure Se
72. ll be sewn and pressed Use a bull dog or binder clip to hold the dart closed so you have both hands free to cut at the corrected CUT line For side seams the side elegant and French darts are all pressed so the fold of fabric on the wrong side is down Cut away excess paper starting at the underarm and cut downwards Stop several inches above the hem You will be folding the hem under in a minute For pant waist darts the books say fold the dart s at the waist towards center Frankly I do mine towards the out seam better shaping for my body shape Start cutting at the out seam and in towards center to form the proper dart cap If pressing towards the out seam start at center and cut towards out seam When folding darts make sure the dart legs overlap each other perfectly even if that means the dart center or a dart leg needs to be trued Or use the midline of the dart as your presumptive start point and adjust the dart legs ONLY folding it out will accurately true a dart Hems including sleeves Turn under at the stitch line towards the wrong side and cut the excess paper UP from the bottom fold line This will create little triangular pokeys that may go in or out depending on the stitch line above it You will no longer need to ease in excess fabric when hemming or try and stretch the hem to fit By the way this is true of all patterns not just patterns made with the Dress Shop software uu eae eh Uim
73. lly with your bottom pressed against one wall Press back as hard as you can Place a yardstick across the front of your body at crotch level where your body intersects your legs Slide the yardstick over so it butts up against the wall and mark Hopefully someone 1s helping you take this measurement and can make sure the yardstick isn t angling forward or back Stand away from the wall and measure how far from the wall the mark is You should need a smaller measurement than the one previously taken it s a tricky measurement to take 1f your pant legs are too baggy Pants don t come all the way up to the waist You have probably not taken your Front Floor to Waist or Back Floor to Waist measurement along the line of your body encompassing your stomach or bottom body curve If the pants fit correctly otherwise you should need a longer measurement between your crotch and your waist and this 1s controlled by the abovementioned Floor to Waist measurement front and back only not side 50 DRESS SHOP FIT TEST GARMENTS Constructing the Casual Blouse Fit Garment by Kaaren Hoback The casual blouse is not a snug fitting garment but rather provides a relaxed fit and is a great starting point No options are available to this fit garment The blouse has one side dart and a center front seam allowance which you may leave open at center front to pin closed when you try it on The purpose of constructing the casual blouse fit garment 1s t
74. low for full stretch of fabric around the head and neck in wearing If you are unsure of the fit you may wish to baste on a regular sewing machine and try it on over your head before serging 3 Pin the shoulder seam front and back right sides together You can use silk dress pins but be very careful NOT to stretch or destroy any of the fabric weave Press the shoulder seam flat over a seam roll without stretching as you press the iron straight down Depending on your fabric type you may need to use a pressing cloth Let the fabric cool down before disturbing it this will prevent it from being stretched out of shape I have found that correct pressing can make the difference in a homemade garment and a professionally sewn garment 68 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES 4 Fold along the dashed line to form the facing Pin at the T pin marking where the neck and shoulder meet and slipstitch to hold the facing in place Press without stretching the edge to have a nice finished neck edge 5 Hand stitch the neck facing to the shoulder seam at the seam line with a slipstitch or stitch in the ditch 6 Serge finish the raw edge of the sleeves at the hem Attach the sleeves to the garment matching the front arm notch with the front sleeve notch and match the back arm notch with the back sleeve notch right sides together and sew Tip To ease in the fullness of the sleeve cap you can place the sleeve wr
75. manipulate vi AR D B E ns HH i Phone Cons eas Hf x your patterns to the desired layout n vs ua Li an E EE i Plaid C Pattern for your fabrics FRRERRE dE ERBEN i p Bord 2 Bord EB EE NN titi MT vn n am Update Print Exit Take some time and play with all of the options to see what they are for and how they work Once you are familiar with the tool you ll use it for all of your designs regardless of the fabric you are using e Rotate rotates the selected pattern 45 degrees with each click e Copy Copies the pattern piece that is highlighted in red e Flip Flips the piece that is highlighted to the opposite direction e Delete Removes the currently highlighted pattern piece e Zoom in Magnifies the fabric layout e Zoom out Reduces the fabric layout 28 DRESS SHOP GENERAL PATTERN PREPARATION General Pattern Preparation by Kaaren Hoback What is pattern preparation and why should I Pattern preparation is taking the pattern you have printed from your computer and preparing it for your fabric There are little things you can do that are quick and simple that will make the construction process easier and will assure that your garment will fit properly Once you have proven your measurement chart the program will add ease fit and flare for the design or silhouette you have chosen This is your last chance to change your mind about the decisions you have made as to neck depth length flare and
76. n settings such as pocket size pocket openings waistband size dart size and more Click on each to see what is there The Summary button at the bottom will display a complete summary of every pants setting selected that you can print out to document just what was used with any of your projects Use the Tool Help button at the bottom for a more detailed discussion of this tool 22 Ruffle Flounce and Peplum Tool Ruffle Flounce and Peplum Design Tool For Your Fitted Shirt Values in inches Click here to read about ruffles flounces and peplums Type of Adornment Frilliness of the Flounce Hone Li Average Flounce Straight Hemline Rufe Frillier Flounce VV aterfall Flaunce i Inner diameter Neckline Ruffle amount af frill Neckline Flaunce E Goes Rufe C Width of the Flounc Meckine ar Closure Sleeve Flounce Skirt ar Dress Hemime Peplum E Flounce Width Show It Defaults Done Yoke Customizer Blouse Yoke Customizer Values in inches Select yoke seam shapin ci Front Select front yoke shape m Back Select back yake shape Mid Amscye Yoke Chevron Yoke Depth At Side Scoop lo Front Yoke Depth mm lo Back Yoke Depth Straight Westem C Classic Yoke Extra fahric for gathers Lowered Vokes no side dart lo Total added width Flat Yoke j Low Westem Added De P P pth at Center or Point straight Low Westem 0 Distance From Centerline Added Depth Show tt _D
77. nerous sleeve cap Case 52 DRESS SHOP FIT TEST GARMENTS To make your fit test garment make sure you have chosen a zipper front closure so that you can leave the center front open and will be able to pin it closed Trim off the seam allowance at front and back neck edge so that you can see where your jewel neck actually lies I will review some pictures that show what s wrong and which measurement line corrects the issues The shoulder point is critical When the shoulder point is off almost everything else 1s too so correct it first Here is a shoulder point that s set too far out on the top of the arm and a bust dart whose bust depth 1s too short Mark on the test garment while you are wearing it where the shoulder point and the dart should be Then remove the test garment and measure how much deeper to make the bust depth and how much less wide across shoulder should be Changing those measurements can quickly correct these problems In this photograph we can see where the across chest back is too wide and the bust back is too narrow The across chest is forcing the armhole of the blouse out onto the arm which will lead to a too narrow sleeve cap in the end A high true underarm and shoulder point will allow just the sleeve to move when you are in motion without dragging half the blouse with it What s important to note here are the asymmetric shoulder heights Note the level pencil line above the sh
78. nt is too long allowing extra fabric to bunch or form wrinkles In this case reducing the crotch length front by a fraction of an inch resolved the issue Small adjustments of only a fraction of an inch can turn a good fit into a wonderful fit 60 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES Constructing Necklines The articles below are samples taken from Help Articles and Directions in the program A Polo Neck by Janet Dean Fabric Preparation Optional interface the placket pieces with a lightweight fusible interfacing Mark placket placement lines on shirt front To mark the center front of the placket fold the fabric in half and lightly press in the center front mark center of placket between the stitch lines Press seam allowances on long edges to the wrong side Optional lightly press fold lines in place Sewing the Applied Placket Stay stitch the front neck edge Mark placket stitching line on wrong side of placket Pin to garment right side of placket to wrong side of garment Tailor s chalk to mark placket seams Freezer paper template the width and length of the placket 6l DRESS SHOP NECKLINES Stitch Slash between the stitches forming a triangle at the end of the placket similar to the one on the pattern Turn placket through the slash Press seam allowances and triangle towards the placket Placket turned through and pinned in place This is referred to as the placke
79. nt so that you have a clear line to match when pinning your test garment closed Now it is time to review the garment 51 DRESS SHOP FIT TEST GARMENTS Check that the shoulder armhole line is at the top of the shoulder point It should extend less than 2 inch beyond the shoulder point If your garment is incorrect the measurement lines to look at are across shoulder front and back Check that the shoulder drop or angle of the shoulder is correct If your garment is incorrect check the full and slope measurement lines Check the neck depth For the center front the garment should hit at the base of the jewel neckline In the back the edge of the garment should be at that bony knob at the base of the neck If the garment is wrong check your measurement lines for center front and center back lengths Verify that the side seam runs straight from the underarm to waist and hip and does not angle The measurement lines that may need correcting are high bust bust and bust back waist and hip front and back Check that the side dart points do not hit at the high point of the bust mound and are not too high or too low If the dart lines are incorrect look at your measurement line for bust depth Check that the waist is at or near your natural waist and that the length of the garment is at or near your hip Finally check there are no large wrinkles which indicate too much fabric or puckers which indicate that the garm
80. nter of the fabric instead of the folding down the center This way I can see and make sure that the stripes are going to line up at the front and back seam lines I also use fabric weights when cutting out my garment this keeps slick fabrics from sliding or being stretched by the use of straight pins Cutting is quicker if you use a rotary cutter and cutting mat 67 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES Constructing your Funnel Neck Shirt Serge or clean finish your neck facing When sewing knits on a conventional sewing machine use a longer stitch length for the seams and a stretch stitch if it is available Using 9 stitches per inch is a good rule of thumb You can also double stitch 4 seams by sewing a second row of stitching 1 8 from the previous row of stitching Then press the seam to one side If you want a great deal of stretch in the seam allowance use a zigzag stitch Also with knit fabrics keep the pressure light this prevents the fabric from ruffling at the edge When serging be sure to test sew a fabric sample to set the correct differential feed setting 2 Apply a stay tape over the shoulder seams to stabilize I used Design Plus Black Straight Stay Tape by L J Designs which is a fusible product You may also topstitch the shoulder seam to hold the seam in place if you plan to launder it often If you sew with a regular sewing machine you will want to stretch the fabric ever so slightly to al
81. o check your across shoulder armhole and side seams to make sure they fit your body In addition you can check your bust depth and dart take up by viewing the side dart placement angle and distance from the bust apex mark The test garment is hip length Usea tightly woven fabric that 1s on grain Pattern pieces consist of a front cut 2 a back cut one on the fold and a sleeve cut 2 Jack 13 677 1 1 8337 of 1 1 583 of ease Back Abdomen 18 50 0 500 Pack Hin 21 fa 1 153 of e Bank Print a 1 4 scale of each pattern piece and then print a full scale Retain the 1 4 scale patterns to compare later Prepare and layout the pattern pieces on grain Cut out then transfer dart marks as well as the waist reference line and the red bust apex cross Hem allowances have already been removed from the blouse bottom and sleeve Please remove the seam allowance from the front and back neck as well To construct e Stitch the side bust darts along the transferred dart lines Start at side seam and sew towards the point e Sew the front and back shoulders together e Set in the sleeves by first matching the notches one in the front and two in the back Then ease the sleeve into the armhole making sure that all of the easing 1s between the notches and the sleeve apex shoulder point Sew the front and back together at the side seams Press a crease in the seam allowance line at the center fro
82. o rayon soft linens silks sheers and other softly woven fabric with a nice drape Knits may work as well depending on how stable they are This type of sleeve will not drape well in a stiff woven How to Assemble a Lantern Sleeve One For ease in identification we will refer to the pieces as one two and three Two Three 76 DRESS SHOP SLEEVES Pattern Prep True your seam allowances Mark grain lines on all pattern pieces Decide if you will be using the cuff or ending it with an elastic casing at the wrist If using the casing method you may discard the cuff piece then add the casing depth to the inside curve of piece number 2 Piece 1 may appear shorter than you are used to for a full length sleeve this is because some of this length will be made up with piece number 2 Check that the cuff is the length you would like the length up and down the wrist as well as around the wrist You may select a French Cuff on the Options Sleeve menu Construction steps Elastic wrist sleeve If you will be making the elastic casing at wrist you will begin by making the casing now Fold up the hem edge press stitch and insert your elastic Now stitch the seam of piece 2 T1 DRESS SHOP SLEEVES Next you will attach piece 2 to piece 1 There will be some easing needed in attaching the round edge to a straight edge It is recommended to put the rounded edge against the bed of the
83. ode eie De en i ci oli edic pL id eui 21 Iggy 21 The Complete Pants Customizer 2 21e eoa oo qos E ee ea tox de tere eo ea eoo dos ate eaa Ede to see ees Cea te cete ate aor ede eritis 22 Rutfle Flounce and P plum TOOL siio etr eee sieas Ori ben atraer aree RE e e Or trai MS 23 Yoke CUS ugue NN M 23 Primine Patterns m 24 Construcuno Your Patteri ecce vao atis vo E YR eva VER RR ERO ES IU FRI e ia NIRE VA S NIE Res iee ee uada ees 24 Pattern bare du NR 25 The Fabric Eayout WOON uc dsscicsesooe sev eiudue tun os vovv sud ido d do duo CU de Vues a Ub oV ue Yos Fev dde osa vk vu vu ER va ood des 27 General Pattern PreparatiOI cioe iesu oet o o rater veo ee eie doe o de ae aee eo Fere EoIVE ET a PME TU ov OR e ETUDES 29 Fabric Preparation e 33 DRESS SHOP GETTING STARTED Taking Dress Shop Measurements ecce eee ee eee ee eene een ette teen esas stet tees esas stet eee sesso os eoe 34 Markino and Measure ioi eie piii oed roro ede Eee iei EHE deo IEEE beoe Ee EDU DI TIL ERI Leve EEEREN 34 Makine Y OUr TS OO sasarina a EE E vaso hueco nd en umen AE A en en uude ei heute ia 34 IMecasurtis Y OUR BOO oss iem EE Itt Iu reu UNAM ee 36 Common Nleasurims WIS TAK CS i dire D a tete ite RO PN RT I TE E tea NIU mn cea aa 42 Howto Adjust Your IVIedsuremehbls oodd eiooa e EP arsine p Oba E epi b pev niin 44 Howto Make Your Bode SIONS TIE erede Eton ad Dant un etutet
84. odice which is a fitted blouse that drafts to waist level While your measurements may be what you have used in the past they may not be what Dress Shop needs for its patterns These garments will help you ad ust your meausrements to the rules used by the Dress Shop drafting engine gt 9 9 Click here for overview directions After you select a fit test pattern use the Help button below for more detailed Select the garment you wish to use followed by the Done directions on each button Please select the type of garment you wish to draft Casual Blouse Detailed information on Fit Test Garments and how to use Panis Canmant these patterns 1s available from the Help button You can also 7 Torso Garment refer the Fit Test Garments section of this manual Bodice Garment Help Done 15 Loading a Pattern DRESS SHOP DESIGNING Dress Shop comes with patterns included To load these patterns use the File gt Load Pattern menu This will result in a screen displaying sub folders Some of those include additional sub folders the Dress folder includes Fitted Dresses Princess Dresses Formal Dresses etc And within them all are the patterns that you own Look irc C3 MyPatlere Lo Achaea ar amp cf E 3 Blouse My Recent Ca Dresses clesiam Fans 3 umpet C3 Lingene Desktop li Loungewesi Lj Mens wear C Duteneear C Pants hy Documents E Skit bel Computer oem fF a Mu Network Fie
85. oe hebes 37 DRESS SHOP INDEX G et n9 Started eoa oec irr tercie 8 GEO 2s ERE 8 Help Meu cet ER eR t 10 Hichi W AIS 6 cri Hide a CEU 38 High Waist OflSel oi eet etae eee to e tectis 38 Inseam ssessecseessesseoseesseso 12 20 39 43 47 48 58 Lay Oois aei 33 Length OpUoDS oie e tete ona reip creisses 17 Loading a Pattern tei te teet ioris 16 WEEK ING ito eee E e eie d 34 Measurement Chart e eeee ecce e eee eee ne 14 34 Measurement Display Icon 8 Measurement Wizard eee ee eee eee eeee 12 Measurements 8 9 11 12 14 34 39 44 M 3aSHELIg esiseinas 12 34 36 42 44 Neckline Options e ettet eterne te eterne 18 Option Summary ecce eee eere eere eee eene ennenkii 20 Options ICI acs sesest eoe etu ee Ceo iN EXE do Vau Veneti ea cos 10 Over Arm L erneth edite dientes 39 Pase Set WD cce eise ea iot x erae Poueu e E 7 Pant Fit Garment iioc feti eite 57 Pattern DIa9rams 2452323 eiit be itd 25 Pattern OpDUOlS 55 2 eorr cosi ceti eoe ee dcos ene 17 Pattern Preparation ecce eene e eee 29 Pattern Settings ss sccsscscssecicsescaseacesansesanccessteosacsavessese 17 PEIWCOE cocescceeecsessececessceisccavecesestecccsebessccenees 6 7 24 23 Printer COD eei iret eere eee eco cen 8 Printing PatteEls o een e re eene rete 24 Quick Start GUIG C s iere S
86. of the elbow at the point of the elbow Around Hand Measure around the hand with the hand loosely fisted Wrist Measure around the wrist 39 DRESS SHOP MARKING amp MEASURING Lower Torso and Legs Floor to Waist Front straight Measure from the floor to the waist at center front Conform the tape from the waist to the hip level and then allow it to drop straight to the floor Floor to Waist Front conformed Measure from floor to waist at center conforming the tape to the belly and thigh This measurement will be longer than floor to waist straight Floor to Waist Back straight Measure from floor to waist conforming the tape from waist to hip then allowing the tape to drop straight to the floor from the hip down Floor to Waist Back conformed Measure from the floor to the waist at the back conforming to the body along the buttock and back thigh This measurement will be longer than floor to waist straight Floor to Waist Side Measure from floor to waist side conforming to the body from waist to hip level Floor to Hip Measure a straight line up from floor to the marked hip line Floor to Knee Measure from the floor to the center of the kneecap Floor to Ankle Measure from the floor to the center of the ankle knob Upper Thigh Measure the circumference of the top of the thigh approximately 1 inch down from the inseam level Mid Thigh Measure the mid t
87. ong side of the garment against the feed dogs 7 With right sides together sew the front to the back at the side seams For hem finishes with a stretchy fabric that tends to grow use a longer stitch length at the hemline and sew the garment slightly narrower at the hemline side seams 8 Serge or edge finish the raw edge of the garment hem Sew the hem in using a blind hem stitch either by hand or on your machine Nancy Nason s Funnel Neck This How To Article is provided By Bobbi Jo Nichols of Missouri 69 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES A Turtleneck by Nancy Nason n AN i H rm A Pattern Description _ The turtleneck is a fold over collar that is inserted in the round and usually does not require a zipper x __ A turtleneck collar in a woven fabric is cut on the bias and FE requires a back zipper It is known as a bias roll collar These tips will be for sewing a knit turtleneck collar I Most sewing books have directions for the more advanced technique of inserting a zipper in a bias roll turtleneck This turtleneck by Nancy Nason is made in a lightwei ght knit Fabric Choice Knits such as interlock sweater slinky or any knit with Lycra etc will work Woven fabrics of a soft nature and good hand cut on bias are also suitable Ribbing that matches your garment body fabric 1s ideal when available If using sweatshirt fleece use ribbing or other stretch material for
88. opular variant Dart depth adjustment front and back you can adjust the depth of the waist darts in the front the back or both as you wish The default depths are to the ab level in the front and to 75 of hip depth in the back In some cases to adjust fit at ab level for instance see below you might wish to make these darts longer or shorter If you have pants whose fit you are happy with you might check the dart depth on them for an idea of what your body needs here 47 DRESS SHOP HOW TO ADJUST MEASUREMENTS Body Depth measurement perhaps the most sensitive adjustments are required along the crotch seam The basic Dress Shop crotch curve 1s built using your Crotch Depth Floor To Waist minus Inseam lengths and Crotch Length measurements But the relative split of the crotch curve from the front to the back is variable And how tightly you measure the crotch length can cause very different curves The best way we have found to adjust this 1s to estimate the total amount of crotch extension front and back that you should need The Body Depth measurement helps us make that estimate To measure Body Depth stand in a corner with your back firmly against one wall Place a yardstick across your upper thighs right at crotch level The yardstick should be parallel with the wall at your back Mark where it touches the wall at your side Then measure from the wall at your back yes you can move now to the mark This distance is
89. orteo eu en ag aR 6 Reference Patteri uunc eh netos 8 Ruffle Flounce and Peplum Tool 23 wl 8 23 Shaping and Finish Options 19 Shoulder Leneth ooo ti ero Gio tora Deco 36 Shoulder SIODE sii EIEFE EISE 36 Side ent 2 2 IE REPRE rp ranas 38 42 Size Mehl riii iet ens 9 Sleeve ODUODS tiii ociiei tinaaa 17 SIODOES cose D OTI EESTI UE 15 44 44 46 Standard SIZES 5 eo oce cioe eee ae e eate aaaea s atis 11 Upper Torso Measurements 36 User Prelerences 2 ida eoe 7 Vent Pleat or Godet Options 19 fuv 39 Xoke Customizer 5 1 e iere Ene ee co eiae dep eeekde 23 zm
90. oulder slope and the full length relationship are not in balance with each other The full length determines the top of your garment at the highest point of your shoulder seam The shoulder slope determines where the outside point of the shoulder seam will be If they are not in balance with each other the result may be a distorted pattern which when made up will not run along the top of your shoulder It is normal for the shoulder slope to be within a of the full length measurement If your shoulders are square the shoulder slope measurement will be up to 2 larger than the full length If your shoulders are sloped the shoulder slope will be up to 1 2 smaller than the full length These are averages as a guideline only If your garment fits you and you are happy with the placement of the shoulder seam and the drape of the garment then we are happy too even if it doesn t fit into our example Across Chest If the across chest measurement is taken too far in on the body it will create a sleeve cap that extends into the body You will find the sleeve pulling and it will be difficult to raise your arms The line that you measure from and to is straight down from the outside shoulder tip to the crease formed where your arm meets your body Do not curve this line the program will create the proper sleeve and armhole Side Length The side length is one of the funny measurements It is often difficult to tell exactly where to put the
91. oulders and the difference in air space between line and shoulder left versus right If you have a perfect test garment and an asymmetric body what happens The test garment will wrinkle or pucker on one side and not the other The goal 1s not a perfect fit test garment but a good fitting garment pattern You can deal with your asymmetry when mild and normal such as this one in construction or through the use of shoulder pads a mock thin shoulder pad on the high side and a thicker pad on the low side For most garments with wear ease this 1s simply not noticeable 53 DRESS SHOP FIT TEST GARMENTS Side seams must be straight not angled and should bisect the torso skeleton from shoulder point to waist Ifthe seams are placed too far forward or back they must be corrected Depending on which way the seams angle remove from the front and add to the back measurement or vice versa Please note that at the bottom of the side seam there is a difference in length from front to back This is normal The difference should be between 1 4 and 3 8 inch As this 4 imperfect design steals ease from the side seam for the armhole a different amount is stolen from the front versus back Do not try and correct this This test bodice looks hopeless One reason is the material used it s too soft basically pattern paper The bodice also isn t pinned quite correctly Beyond that it does indeed have problems Al
92. re in taping your patterns together My personal favorite method is to tape on a large grid mat and use 18 inch ruler You may choose your own method Just make sure all pages are square the A column pages from i x AI A4 5 or how ever many pages are set so all the registration I einen Se ES marks on the RIGHT hand side of the page are spaced exactly 3 cients 5 555 inches apart at center That all B C and maybe D columns left hand pages ame T the r hand page of the previous column After getting all the pages taped is the time to do your preparation BEFORE cutting away excess paper Here is what I do to every pattern 29 DRESS SHOP GENERAL PATTERN PREPARATION First True the seam allowances IF there 1s any discrepancy between the stitch and cutlines making the seam allowance width not exact in some location treat the stitch lines as correct Using a seam gauge draw the cut line out the distance you have set as your seam allowance width The program uses 5 8 or 0 625 inches as default Make sure the gauge has a slider and 1s marked in 1 8 inch increments The stitch lines are generally correct on straight areas but sometimes vary at arm holes and necklines Set the slider to your seam allowance width and just run it along the stitch line Seam Gauge by Dritz making dashed marks with your colored pencil to adjust Darts If the dart starts on a side seam or at a raw edge waist shoulder etc fold out the dart as it wi
93. ront from side seam to side seam This line 1s parallel to the waistline so be sure to drop down the same number of inches from your waist as your abdomen depth at each side seam as well as at the abdomen high point Abdomen Back Measure from side seam to side seam across the back Drop down your abdomen depth from the waistline all the way across so that you are parallel to the waistline Hip Front The hip line is placed level across the body rather than paralleling the waistline Find the hip level back first and then measure from side seam to side seam across the front Hip Back Measure from side seam to side seam across the widest part of the hip 38 DRESS SHOP MARKING amp MEASURING Crotch Length Front Crotch Length Back and Inseam First take a total crotch length measurement from center waist front to center waist back Note this number since it will serve as a double check of your separate numbers in case the tape measure slips when taking the front and back measurements i un The easiest way to obtain the separate crotch measurements 1s to tie use a thin wire or a small silk flower on a wire three tape measures together all at the zero end Flatten the join so that one tape goes to the left one tape goes to the right and one hangs straight down the middle Pass the flower to the person being measured and have them place the join mid crotch Then stand back up straight and erect an
94. s al type Des Shop Fatemi Files pat Lancel F Baria Open as read only Never load your Fit Test Garments from the File Load Pattern menu Always use the Size Fit Test Garments menu Look im When you select the general garment type you may IET see sub folders within it For blouses there are fitted j ed POLIER par halter princess and unfitted sub types Open the sub a E 5 is K type you wish and all blouses of that sub type will be ten e p o E listed for you to select from Documents BE Shall pat y E When you see the pattern you want click on it to load Desk ton it Use the Options menu for all design editing oc NN your edited garment a new name and select Save The edited patterns will be of included and purchased patterns When you have finished your design edits and want to save the pattern use the File gt Save Pattern menu Give saved in the appropriate sub folder for the category of garments such as Blouse Dress or Pants folder Use the File gt Load Pattern gt followed by the appropriate folder to load your saved patterns 16 Pattern Options DRESS SHOP DESIGNING To edit or to see all the possible variations for your selected design select the Options menu Some examples are General Pattern Settings waduus ir ieee 1 Sleeve Hem Placket Width 2 Facings Width L Width of Casings Defaults Done Seam Allowance
95. s fabrics on the garment Pattern Legend Describes each of the various lines on the pattern along with the measurement set being used The File Menu New Load Pattern save Pattern Activate Products Settings Print Page Setup Fabric Layout View Current Offers Quit 9 9 9 9 99 9 Standard Sizes Measurement Wizard Complete Chart Fit Test Patterns Load Measurements Import Measurements start a new garment Load your included patterns and or retrieve your purchased patterns Create and save several designs from one pattern Activate and set up the program to your preferences Setup your margins and paper size for printing your patterns Determine how much fabric you will need for your garments Preview a different DS version Close the program The Size Menu Select a Standard size from infant s 3 months up to Women s size 40 amp Men s size 60 Use the Measurement Wizard to get started quickly with just 5 measurements The Complete Measurement chart allows you to enter display or edit all 61 measurements used to draft Dress Shop patterns Draft your Fit Test Patterns to verify or adjust your measurements Load saved measurements Import measurements from an earlier version of Dress Shop If you own an earlier version of Dress Shop upon opening Dress Shop 8 your personal measurement files are automatically imported If you should ever need to repeat th
96. s half inch margins all around then each sheet can contan 7 5 by 10 of your pattern Dress Shop needs to know these numbers so it can draft properly Use the controls on this page to instruct Dress Shop about your printer setup Be sure that your printer will support the margins you set or you may end up missing your match targets or pieces of your patterns If you are missing your side targets increase your side margins Targets print on the sides only not top and bottom If you are not getting the full length of your pattern increase the top and bottom margins For complete information on printing refer to the Printing section of this User Manual DRESS SHOP GETTING STARTED Getting Started Take some time to get familiar with the program screen and the functions of all of the buttons File AZo Optio 5 Design Tools A off n off t A R NE zn Cham ic Wanane tise eae F eaves rgam foes blaraereeres phas sara eise bran m ra n P i i j DI j i If 3 r LA T M 1 I if MCN IBN ears um ie pi M Bach Ms 1 Fri Furi fi 11 F T pe s EU i i Fersi a i e eR N Dress Shop Pattern l e i I l Shaky Shoulder Princess nN l l Dress and bese a mere Ew IT 1 l u I i
97. st the neck edge of the shirt with right sides together and pin matching the quarter marks As you sew with the collar on top stretch the collar to match the garment If you are unsure of the fit you may wish to baste this seam on a regular sewing machine and try it over your head before serging If you prefer a facing finish divide and sew only one edge of the collar to the garment Then fold the collar along the dashed edge to have a nice finished faced top edge Hand stitch the raw neck edge to the inside or stitch in the ditch See glossary Jaylene s Turtleneck 71 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES A Cowl Neck by Janet Dean and Kaaren Hoback The cowl neckline changes the construction order for any blouse or dress After preparing your pattern and fabric please review these directions before proceeding The cowl requires a stay which is an additional fabric piece applied to the inside of the fabric front to hold the neck and shoulders in position The cowl will then stay draped and won t move around The stay may be made of any fabric but is often more comfortable if made with stretch fabrics or swimsuit lining Front Stay Frengs Pac rent Under Bust The pattern piece on the right is for the front stay which will be found under facings e There is a red T pin at the shoulder neck edge position Constructing Your Garment Do a trial of the pattern pieces to understand how the stay works
98. t 3 Print your fit test pattern and make a fit test garment Instructions for printing and constructing your pattern are on Page 23 The Fit Test Patterns dialog box contains a HELP button that will take you to the instructions to walk you through what fit test patterns are for and how to use them to refine your measurements 4 Once you have made your initial fit test garment and know where you need to fine tune do your adjustments to your measurements and move on the next fit test pattern Once you have a good set of measurements you are ready to start creating your custom fitting garments 5 Dress Shop comes with additional patterns included To use these additional patterns you must activate your copy of Dress Shop From the File menu select Activate Product Enter the email address and password that you used when you purchased Dress Shop Click on the Activate Products button The program will check with the Livingsoft Northwest web site and download activation codes for any product s or pattern collections that you own Your products and patterns will be activated The patterns you own are now available to print 6 To work with a pattern use the File gt Load Pattern menu select the sub folder for the garment style you wish to work on Blouse Dress Pants etc Every pattern in your patterns folder is yours to print re design using the Options menu save and print again in any sizes and with any options as often as you li
99. t 36 changed When you make a change to any uu Bust Depth f Front Armhole Depth alis Jj measurement it will be marked with a 9 Bra Band Size N A Back Armhole Depth i Hip 38 V x Bra Cup N A H Inseam 23 oe Mid Thigh Once you have your measurements adjusted roscoe your measurements idun ome E ids adm 4 5 xi ERI Floor to Waist Side 139 S16 select Save to save your measurements again press _Clear Add Front to Back Split Peeler es M Front Back Floor to Waist Front 139 5 16 giving them a distinct name A ss Measurement Set Hame 6 3 7 6 Floor to Waist Back iMisses Size Bur C C 6 er SIE Wast C C 6 C nC Crotch Length Front 11 15 16 Hips You can change or review these measurements at any time by using Size gt Load Measurements Crotch Length Back Crotch Extension Front 2 1 16 Crotch Extension Back n Help Print Save Dene lt lt Simple Be sure to refer to the Measurements section of this manual to learn how to take your measurements correctly 12 The Easy Doll Chart DRESS SHOP MEASUREMENTS For Doll Shop Deluxe users your doll measurements may be entered or adjusted using the Easy Doll Chart from the Size menu It looks like this ER Hame Misses Size Height You may start with a default dall type above or by loading a named chart Even dolls of the same name may require chart changes as makers changed them over the years
100. t at the end of the line to make matching easier If printing in continuous strips overlay and match the targets printed on the pattern strips Tape together and you are ready to go Working on a white or light colored tabletop will make it easier to see the pattern and targets underneath Post it glue sticks allow for repositioning and work well when initially matching targets and line ends When all targets and lines have been accurately matched secure with tape Match and overlay targets from left to right EER EEE EE Lines of the top and bottom patterns butt up against each Casa Ato geh en other You can either trim off Panir Pin n F La nearer z the excess unprinted paper or draw a cross line at the ends of the lines to make matching easier 24 DRESS SHOP PATTERN DIAGRAMS Pattern Diagrams Custom designed using the a Pattern Legend hisses Size 12 measurement set Ile asurements dashed cyan lines Ieasuremarntz plus ease violet lines Cutting Line seam Line Dart Sewing Lines Fold or Center Line Dart Fold Line Grainline d of ease Measurement and Ease Lines Current View ront Abdomen 18 50 0 60F of ea f Pattern Description Tant Fip ULB3 ae ee Fitted Shirt Front Right Standard Fit Pattern Using Oress Shop Standard Program Version Number pia 00 c 2005 2009 My Pattem Designer LLC 25 DRESS SHOP
101. t facing Working from right side fold under lap along fold line matching seam line on the wrong side Fabric will extend below the placket Tuck the ends of the placket inside the shirt Make sure you lap the placket in the right direction Men boys Left over right Women girls Right over left Prepare collar if applicable Often this style of shirt uses a knitted collar which needs no preparation To construct collar stitch right sides together around the three edges that do not have the shoulder match point Trim seam allowance turn and press Topstitch 1f desired Stitch open edge together 3 8 from the cut edge inside the seam allowance Stitch shoulder seams 62 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES On the garment mark the following points Center back Center front on placket overlap Fold line placket overlap Center front on placket under lap Fold line placket under lap The blue pins are marking the center fronts the green pins are marking the placket fold lines Pin the collar to the garment matching center back shoulder T marks and edges of collar to center front marks Do not pin through the placket facing Knitted collar Center back edges of collar to center front marks Open out placket facing Turn back at the fold line and pin over the collar Stitch seam 63 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES Clip placket corners Finish the neck seam Over lock Trimming the seam allowance back to about 3
102. t feel like you have a wedgie The measurement line that may need correcting is inseam length gt The pant should fit from floor to natural waist If your garment is incorrect check the measurement line for floor to waist conformed You need to adjust the overall length 57 DRESS SHOP FIT TEST GARMENTS You can refine your crotch shape length and curve easily with Dress Shop What follows is a brief introduction If you are using a wizard or standard measurement chart you should be able to get a relaxed dress pant fit pant with just a few adjustments The closer the desired fit to your unique body shape the more you may need to refine the chart The adjustments may be made on the Chart in this snap shot of the complete chart available in the Dress Shop Pro Version Waist 20 F Abdomen 34 5 f Hip 37 5 EH Hip Front EN co O N Hip Back Front Crotch Length c o NO O1 Back Crotch Length N oO Front Crotch Ext Back Crotch Ext Front Crotch Break Tn Back Crotch Break Or study this snap shot of the standard version chart i WAIST er s Abdomen xus g Hip 3 95 Mid Thigh 21 75 v Floor to Waist Side EN ur Floor to Waist Front 4 x Floor to Waist Back 4 x Inseam 295 y Crotch Length Front 12 12 d Crotch Length Back 1512 Y Crotch Extension Front M E Crotch Extension Back 3 825 58 DRESS SHOP FIT TEST GARMENTS Adjusting the front and back crot
103. t true the underarm back seam line The dart is stitched first and pressed over a ham to shape The underarm seam is then stitched Ease the sleeve cap to the armhole The sleeve 1s then inserted in the round For jackets and shirts I would suggest adding a strip of interfacing in the hem area The Two Piece Sleeve The Two Piece Sleeve is ideal for jackets and is inserted in the round so the sleeve and side seams are constructed first The under panel 1s stitched to the upper panel easing the back elbow seam as needed between the notches Mark the notch of the underarm panel as side seam match point Ease the sleeve cap to the arm hole The sleeve will benefit from a sleeve head stitched to the seam allowance at the same time the shoulder pad is added For jackets and shirts I would suggest adding a strip of interfacing in the hem area ia 75 DRESS SHOP SLEEVES The Lantern Sleeve by Autumn Couture of Florida What is a Lantern Sleeve A lantern sleeve can be used in patterns that range from formal bridal wear to casual elegance It is a sleeve that is gracefully full has a lantern base and is gathered in at wrist There is an additional piece to the lantern that matches the fullness and gently brings it back to the arm You then can end it with a cuff or a simple elastic casing at the arm at whichever length you choose Fabric choices The graceful fullness of this sleeve lends itself t
104. ted at the base of the neck A thin necklace worn at the base of the neck MET helps in marking this point The bump at the back of the neck 1s center back the bone at the front of the atiis neck that s vee shaped 1s the base neckline front point Don t mark the side of the neck on the throat itself but rather where the shoulder and neck intersect Shoulder Points amp Armhole Locate the joint between the shoulder and the arm Most people can feel a ian oe dimple or actually feel the joint move when the arm is in motion This is the high true shoulder point lt y where you want to measure For garments that have an extended shoulder the program will automatically add to this dimension Draw a smooth armhole curve from the shoulder point to the bottom of the armhole on the front and back The front will be slightly more curved than the back Draw along the intersection of arm and body E 3 Shoulder Lines Draw a line from the neck shoulder intersection along the shoulder ridge to the marked 9 m shoulder point This must bisect the shoulder where the seam will fall at the very top of the shoulder It p en should not angle but be a very straight line Side Seams Here a string with a weight which can be a metal washer or even a pencil tied at one end is useful for finding the correct mark The string is held in the center of the armpit slightly towards the back Allow the weight to drop to the floor without touching it Gravi
105. the arm keeping the tape level to the floor Bust Front Measure from side seam to side seam over the widest largest part of the bust across the apex marks that you placed on the bra Bust Back Measure from the side seam to side seam right under the arm This is not along the bra band but above it Bust Depth Measure from the shoulder point to the bust point Measure both the right and left sides and use the longer measurement Bust Radius Measure from the bust point to the chest wall in a straight line down from the apex contouring to the breast Under Bust Front Measure from side seam to side seam right under the breast Take this measure tightly 37 DRESS SHOP MARKING amp MEASURING Bust Span Measure from bust apex to apex High Waist Offset Measure up from waist to the high point of the midriff If you don t have a high point select the bottom of the rib cage level High Waist Measure from side seam to side seam at the offset level Measure the back at the same level Side Length Measure from the underarm down the side to the waist Waist Front Using a snug tape measure across the waist front from side seam to side seam Waist Back Measure from side seam to side seam across the waist back Abdomen Depth Measure from the waist to the high point of the abdomen at the center front Abdomen Front Measure across the high point of the abdomen f
106. the armhole Using your finger tips tap tap tap the easing so it 1s smooth Use a dressmaker s ham or even a rolled up wash cloth or tea towel to create a shoulder to steam the cap into shape You do not want to iron this flat You just spent all that time shaping it into a cap Once you finish steaming and pressing the cap allow it to cool and dry before moving it Pin the sleeve to the armhole First match the apex to shoulder point then front and back notches and then the underarm position Smooth the easing so the sleeve matches the armhole Do not ease from underarm to notches apply evenly All the easing is between the notches up to the cap apex Stitch in place by hand with a basting stitch in a contrast color thread or slowly machine stitch Remove the basting stitch or nylon thread from method 1 or 2 If you are using a cuff I suggest constructing the cuff first to the flat sleeve Then sew the underarm sleeve and set the sleeve in the round Prepare the cuff If you are using a vent and button cuff the vent will print on the shirt You may use the vent placket which is often called a tower placket Cuffs are interfaced on the side closest to the skin If you plan on using a sleeve head to fill in the top of the cap prepare the head and hand catch stitch in place to the armhole seam allowance The Darted Sleeve The darted sleeve pattern piece must be prepared by first folding out the dart as it will be stitched Nex
107. the depth of your body at crotch level and will be used to set the Body Depth Enter that value on the pants menu page and the crotch extension the horizontal portion of the crotch curve will be limited to this amount 25 in the front and 75 in the back If that split 1s not appropriate for your needs visit the Advanced Options Options button then Advanced button There you can set the front and back crotch extension limits separately as you wish There are other adjustments there that you can use as well if you need them Their usage 1s described below What else can you do to address fit issues Does not fit right at the waist If only the waistline 1s too tight or too loose then you might want to adjust the total dart intake for the pants waist darts Visit Options Advanced and set Override Standard Front Pant Skirt Waist Dart Intake to whatever total amount of intake you feel you need from all darts in the front of your pants There is a similar setting for the back dart intake that can be set separately You may also wish to adjust ease at the waist Under Options you can find Waist Ease Enter positive values for a looser fit and negative values for a tighter fit as desired Does not fit right at the abdomen If your pants are too loose or too tight in the abdomen there are several adjustments you can make First the Abdomen Ease on the Options page allows you to adjust the target ab width of the pattern as you wish Again
108. the neck edge of the stay by stitching just inside the seam line Turn a single fold hem Clip if necessary to ensure that the neckline lies flat Prepare and finish the cut edge of the cowl using an over lock zigzag or fold up single hem Attach the stay to the garment wrong sides together Line up the shoulders using the red T pin marks at the neck edge armholes and side seams e Stitch just inside the seam allowance shoulder armhole and side seams taking care not to stretch e Stitch the back neck facing to the garment back e Stitch front to back at shoulder seams Use whatever seam finish you prefer Note Keep the cowl and back facing clear of the shoulder seams e Stabilize the shoulder seam with clear elastic or stay tape Complete the side seams sleeves and hems 73 DRESS SHOP SLEEVES Constructing Sleeves by Kaaren Hoback The articles below are samples taken from Help Articles and Directions in the program Select which method you desire to attach the sleeve flat or in the round Flat construction is generally done with more casual outfits Raglan and stretch raglan sleeves are usually constructed using the flat method In the round is suggested for better dresses blouses and jackets Two piece and darted sleeves are usually constructed in the round The sleeve cap is always slightly longer than the armhole it 1s to be stitched to This provides cap ease which you can adj
109. the turtleneck NB Since knits vary greatly in the amount of stretch they have it is important to be sure that the collar and the neck opening you draft will go over your head Drafting Your Collar When you choose the turtleneck collar and the collar option tool you can choose the width of your collar See the How to Use the Collar Tool article in the Dress Shop Help Articles Neck choice select the jewel neckline If using a woven fabric please use the neck tool to widen the neck width and depth Even with a knit many people prefer to open up the neck a bit by either trimming or using the neckline tool It is up to you to make sure the neck opening 1s wide enough to get over your head Cutting out Your Collar If you are making your collar in a knit cut the collar out with the greatest stretch going around the neck If using a woven be sure to cut on the bias 1n order to achieve a nice roll Constructing Your Collar To make your turtleneck sew the shorter sides of the collar together with a regular sewing machine Press the seam open Fold the collar in half If you have never made a turtleneck before you may wish to baste the neck edges of the collar together Divide the neck edge in quarters and mark each quarter with a pin 70 DRESS SHOP NECKLINES Sew the shoulder seams on your garment and divide the neckline in quarters marking each quarter with a pin Place the neck edge of the collar again
110. thread to gather and put less strain on the gathering thread Pull the bobbin thread gently until you have gathered in the excess ease Be careful or you may break your gathering thread Gathering over a nylon thread or fish line Using a very lightweight clear nylon thread which has considerably more strength zigzag or couch over the line again just inside the seam allowance not past the stitch line Leave a thread tail on both ends of your zigzag stitching Be careful not to catch the nylon thread with the zigzag stitch Let the feed dogs do the work as taught by Margaret Islander and Sandra Bettzina Place the sleeve down on the needle plate of your machine Lengthen the stitch length to 4 or longer Needle down Presser foot down and place the index finger of your left hand behind the presser foot Check to make sure your machine will not pinch your finger Take a small pleat in the fabric behind the presser foot Push it against the back of the foot impeding the flow of fabric Sew quickly for several inches Stop and reposition your fingers Continue until you are about an inch away from the apex mark Sew without gathering a smooth stitch for an inch on either side of the marked apex Then again apply pressure from behind the presser foot stopping the fabric from traveling freely beyond it with your left hand index finger Practice on scraps 74 DRESS SHOP SLEEVES Now the cap 1s eased or shortened to fit
111. ture Yoke Customizer The Help Menu contains links to the web site and sewing sites and is where you can submit a problem report Join the Discussion Board for lots of friendly experienced users advice post questions and perhaps locate an Educator or User s Group near you E a E a 4 EN A B Access the User Manual User Manual l Review or print detailed sewing instructions for garment you are working on iDirections and Articles You can also see at a glance which patterns you own by selecting What do What do own OH OMM Rc Visit the Livingsoft Northwest website and check for updates discounts and special Web Site offers gt Discussion Board Join the discussion board and get advice and ideas from other customers Help Central Help Central can answer many of your questions M When submitting a Problem Report be sure that you have the size and garment Problem Report that you are encountering problems with on the screen About Dress Shop Quickly see which patterns and or collections you own 10 DRESS SHOP MEASUREMENTS Measurements There are several ways to use the measurements in Dress Shop Standard Sizes Select Standard Sizes from the Size menu select your Body Shape You can choose from Misses Women s Men s Girl s Boy s or Children s sizes Then find the Upper and Lower Body size that you would normally wear Upper and lower
112. ty will have the string drop down straight Alternatively if you have a laser level device place the level flat on the floor and shoot a line to mid armpit You are attempting to draw a straight side seam from the shoulder point at top to the middle of the ankle at floor level The idea is to split the torso in two ignoring the bust and bottom Mark a dashed line along the string line or the laser red beam at mid thigh upper thigh hip abdomen waist bust and underarm Bust Find the bust apex Make sure your bra is adjusted so breasts are near level You may use a marker dot or a piece of tape to mark the bust point Waist Tie a length of thin elastic snugly at the waistline Move around a little bit so the elastic slips into the natural waistline Place a marker dot on either edge of the elastic at center front center back and both side seams in case the elastic moves during the measuring process Abdomen Find the largest part of the belly below the waist This 1s generally under the navel Viewing from the side usually makes this easy to spot Mark a line at center front The abdomen line will parallel the tilted waist so you need to first establish the abdomen depth at center front Measure the abdomen back the same number of inches down from the center back waist Mark the back Hip Line Find the highest part of the bend of the buttock on the back This will most likely be where the bend if you start to sit
113. uld be checking 46 DRESS SHOP HOW TO ADJUST MEASUREMENTS The length confirms floor to waist measurements The tilt of the waist confirms floor to waist front vs side vs back Fit at waist ab and hip to confirm each of those measurements front and back Fit in the crotch confirms crotch length inseam and body depth See below for a discussion of that setting Fit of the outseam at thigh knee calf and ankle confirms those measurements these are less critical at this stage as adjustments here are common for different fabrics and can be done with wear ease The main problem to look for here 1s saddle bags at the upper thigh area Tighten up the thigh measurements Fit of the inseam at upper thigh to knee excess fabric here suggests body depth and thigh measurement Issues Definitions of some terms that we will use a lot here Crotch curve the major curved part of your pants pattern dropping from the center front waist to the top of your inseam Crotch length the length of the crotch curve Your measurements include Crotch length front and back and the relative division of this curve will determine whether your pants are loose tight in the front or the back Crotch depth the vertical component of your crotch curve Crotch depth 1s calculated by subtracting your Inseam measurement from your Floor To Waist measurement Crotch extension the horizontal component of your crotch curve Remember the
114. uld it come m x a Meg wheat E came Thi x From Hem use Height SAE Select the type of vent pleat or godet that x Gore Seam Gare Seam ou wish from the drop list box Width of Insert a Princess Seam g Prnncess Seam p Height of Insert lo Show It Defaults Done Set the width and height of your inserts Decide where you want them placed outseam center seam gore seam etc Several of the insert types provided by the Inserts Option dialog are only available with Dress Shop Pro When running Dress Shop Standard those selections will be highlighted in red 19 DRESS SHOP DESIGNING Extra Pattern Pieces Options pockets waistbands flys belt loops etc Extra Pattern Pieces Valu if inches Front Pocket VVidth Waist Pocket Width 6 o Choose a front pants pocke Ch Cha Front Packet Height fi L Waist Pocket Hi 7 Choose a st pocket Choose a Chest pocket flap Front Entry Width 2 Waist Entry Width 5 t Entry Ak Choose a waist pocket Front Entry Height Waist Entry Height Chest Pocket Width n Overhead Measure 25 7 16 Choose waist pocket flap Choose a hood Chest Facket Ht n 1 2 Choose a belt Choose a waist tie inseam Pocket Balt Loops Show lt Defaults Done Use the drop list boxes to select the extra pattern bits you want to add Choose from Cargo Patch or Inseam pockets By selecting Advanced you can change the width and h
115. ulder Back Measure from shoulder point to shoulder point across the back Across Chest Divide the armhole depth number the distance between shoulder point and armpit in half and measure that distance down the armhole line from the shoulder point Measure from that marked halfway point on the armhole line across the upper chest to the matching point on the opposite side Across Back Find the half way mark as above then add 4 inch to the result so that the back measurement is taken a bit lower than on the front Measure from marked armhole to marked armhole across the back 36 DRESS SHOP MARKING amp MEASURING Full Length Front Measure straight down the front from the neck shoulder intersection to the elastic at the waist holding the tape slightly taut Measure the right and left sides and chart the longer Full Length Back Measure straight down the back from the neck shoulder intersection to the elastic at the waist Measure both the left and right sides and chart the longer number Center Length Front Measure from the base of the jewel neck to the center of the elastic at the waist Verify that the elastic 1s still sitting between the little marks you made Center Length Back Measure from the center back of the marked jewel neck to the center of the elastic at back waist Verify that the elastic 1s still between the marks High Bust Front Measure from side seam to side seam right under
116. ust within the program Unless you are using stretch fabric you must have some cap ease or the sleeve may tear out when being worn Make sure your notches for front back and cap apex are well marked I like to snip into the seam allowance about 1 4 of an inch Stitch the dart and press if using a darted sleeve If you are putting the sleeve in flat The shoulders are constructed first and you lay out the sleeve flat to the armhole Stitch in the sleeve cap Then sew from wrist to underarm matching the intersection precisely Pivot take a stitch and start sewing down the side seam If you are putting the sleeve in the round you construct the shoulders then the underarm seam of the sleeve and the side seam first Setting the cap Ease the sleeve cap Do not ease below the notch and leave at least or 1 inch smooth on either side of the cap apex There are several ways to ease the sleeve to the armhole Each method has the stitching in the seam allowance approximately 1 4 inch in from the cut edge Basting stitch gathering One way to ease the sleeve 1s to leave a thread tail and stitch a long basting stitch from notch to apex on each side The stitching 1s approximately 4 inch inside the seam allowance Some people do a continuous stitch from notch to notch I find it better to stop before the apex leaving a thread tail Then start again on the other side of the cap apex mark You will have more control on pulling your
117. valuation Version of the Software Product by authorized use of the conversion mechanism provided with the Software Product in each case either being or resulting in a Full License Version the licenses granted under this EULA commence upon the installation of the Software Product and are effective in perpetuity unless terminated per the terms of this Agreement 79 DRESS SHOP LICENSE amp WARRANTY TERMINATION Upon the expiration of the Evaluation Term if any your rights under this EULA terminate automatically without notice from Livingsoft Without prejudice to any other rights Livingsoft may terminate this EULA or your rights under this EULA at any time if you fail to comply with the terms and conditions of this EULA Upon termination of your rights under this EULA for any reason or upon termination of the EULA itself you must destroy all copies of the Software Product and all of its component parts in your possession including all component parts the media and printed materials any prior versions and this EULA The terms of this paragraph shall survive any termination of this EULA TRANSFER You may permanently transfer all of your rights under this EULA except if your rights are in an Evaluation Version provided you retain no copies you transfer all copies of the Software Product including all component parts the media and printed materials any prior versions and this EULA and the recipient agrees to be subject to t
118. wn chart so that you will be able to accurately establish the exact total garment ease including collateral ease as well as design and wear ease at all points on the pattern You will also have a fully prepared pattern 1f you DO use hand drafting techniques to convert the straight of grain pattern to a bias pattern or to adjust the shaping of a piece beyond what shapes are currently available Using the reference lines at key landmarks on your pattern you can easily map button placement embroidery and other wearable art locations and sizes When you have completed your garment you can staple the pattern summary a scrap of the fabric and any notes you have created on your design sheet for an archival history of the garment to either repeat or modify for future use Do check and see if there is a construction article in the Help menu Directions and Articles that will make your project easier to complete 32 DRESS SHOP FABRIC PREPARATION amp LAYOUT Fabric Preparation and Lay Out by Kaaren Hoback Use the layout tool found under File in Dress Shop to estimate your required yardage Using the layout tool you may rotate flip copy and lay out the pattern pieces for fabric with or without nap stripes or borders The layout can be done on the fold or as a single layer You may print the possible layouts to keep with your Options Summary Prepare your fabric by either laundering or dry cleaning per the yardage instructions

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