Kenmore 1230 Sewing Machine User Manual
Contents
1. DAS UR MR DAS WARE ENAA y n eese An MEAN ZAG SEWING MACHINE Kenmore INSTRUCTIONS ZIG MODEL 1230 1240 1250 Section I Page 1 n TABLE OF CONTENTS Section I Knowing Your Sewing Machine 4 Identifying Parts cccccscccseecenssetecsceteceeneens 2 3 H Installing and Connecting Machine 4 n min 5 6 7 i Threading Top Thread 8 i Using the Controls N Top Tension 9 10 i Bobbin Tension Adjusting esee 11 f Checking Tensions cu dene 12 I Stitch Length Control eee 13 It Stitch Width Control sees dod 14 I Reverse Stitch 15 p Special Stitch Variegator 15 Special Stitch Dial u 16a b Pressure Regulator 17 MN Feed Dog Control nr ven eR 18 ih Sewing Light tee 18 n Seam Gulden ee 19 ij Accessories Eco M 20 D Needle Thread Fabric 21 I Pressar Fodt nn net 22 b Section JJ Starting to 1 Garment Construction Stitches E Straight Stitching 2 3 E ZIGZAG SUICHING un 4 E Overcastilnit isset eoa ut n e EUR ARA 42. Bobbin winder rubber ring 11 6797 Light bulb 12 6862 Box of bobbins 10 pcs 13 6510 Bobbin case 14 47 Shuttle 15 214381 Sewing machine belt 16 3015 Large screwdriver 17 3016 Small screwdriver These items are not furnished with the machine but may be ordered per instructions above Pm AMS So ATTI On SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine should a need ever exist for repair parts or service simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears Roebuck and Co or Simpsons Sears Limited Stores Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the front side of bedplate of your Sewing Machine See Section 1 Page 2 for location WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM PART DESCRIPTION If the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO Chicago IL 60684 U S A and SIMPSONS SEARS LIMITED Toronto Ontario Canada Part No 52917
3. Switch Feed Dog Control Nomenclature Plate Section Page 3 19 Clutch Knob 24 Pressure Regulator 20 Hand Wheel 25 Presser Foot Lever 21 Bobbin Winder 26 Thread Cutter 22 Thread Spool Pins 27 Feed Dogs 23 Bobbin Winder Tension Disc Section _ Page 4 INSTALLING MACHINE en us vm Horti ne d td en anaes AN TER 1 Loosen the two hinge screws under 5 Plug the speed control cord into any holes in the rear edge of the machine 110 120 volt wall outlet bed 6 Turn on power by pushing light and 2 Raise hinge pins in the cabinet cutout power switch 3 Slip machine head onto the pins and 7 Screw spool pins firmly in place with tighten hinge screws securely screwdriver Place the plastic spool 4 Push the speed control plug onto holder onto the spool pin Holder an three prong connector under the bed pins are packed in the accessory box plate Lower machine head to front cabinet flap section Page 5 REMOVING BOBBIN CASE FROM SHUTTLE 1 Turn hand wheel to raise needle to 3 Pull bobbin case straight out of its highest position Lift hand hole shuttle cover plate To thread the bobbin case see page 7 2 Pull open latch of bobbin case Section Page 6 WINDING THE BOBBIN 1 Release clutch by turning clutch knob 5 Start machine Wind thread until toward you bobbin winder latch releases 2 Draw thread from
4. be sewn into place with this stitch Simply stitch the elastic into place around the waist armhole or leg of the garment The elastic may have to be stretched slightly to fit the area of the garment Try and distribute the elastic evenly by marking it into quarters and matching with corresponding quarter marks of the garment FEATHER STRETCH STITCHING Model 1250 only SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial AS Special Stitch Variegator Black mark on top Stitch Width Control 3 to 5 Stitch Length Control All the way down Zigzag Stitch Foot This specially designed stitch is very useful to sew on appliques insert panels and lace when making lingerie or girdles For further directions see GENERAL GUIDANCE FOR SEWING ON STRETCH FABRICS in the next section of the book Page 130 DARNING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial e Model 1250 only Special Stitch Variegator Red mark on top Model 1250 Red dot to the left Model 1240 Stitch Width Control Red Dot Feed Dog Down No Presser Foot Remove presser foot stretch fabric be tween embroidery hoops with hole centered Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning Lowering the presser bar start sewing at a slow to medium speed Move the fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover the darning area When it is covered turn the fabric and
5. button securely 2 Turn hand wheel manually until needle point is just above button 3 Adjust stitch width control so needle will enter left hole of the button 4 Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle enters second hole Readjust stitch width if necessary Stitch a number of times 5 Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie BAR TACKING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial e Model 1250 only Special Stitch Variegator Red mark on top Model 1250 Red dot to the left Model 1240 Stitch Width Control 2 to 5 Stitch Length Control Between 24 and white dot Zigzag Stitch Foot This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches UU A A ARES NU e m SE D E 2 Ss ee N D ME Ss eu e s Oe e XN DL 8 MARRE om ER ER SERE ESSA A ISCO OEE amp d S SEES Um EEE l A RER NER RER ERER Wes x wee Fr pu E ER SEEN IE IT MAXI STITCH STRETCH STITCHING Model 1250 only SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial ASA Special Stitch Variegator Red mark on top Stitch Width Control 2 to 5 Stitch Length Control Any setting except white dot Zigzag Stitch Foot The elastic used in lingerie swimwear and sportswear may
6. is satisfactory but the seam is puckered it may be necessary to loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads Be sure to balance them as indicated on page 10 a When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case make slight adjustments with a screwdriver Correct tensions will produce the stitch shown on page 10 INCREASE TENSION Turn Clockwise Section Page 12 17th EHGTH ENERSE Section Page 14 STITCALEHGIA REVERSE Stitch Length Control i Special Stitch Variegator Section Page 16 a s of utility itche y q just dial the stitch op To make the stitches marke must be set with the Red mal Page 16 b N P u ltt lig reason Section I Page 17 OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF MACHINE IN SEWING In addition to the obvious controls of your machine there are other small regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE REGULATOR Push down outer ring of presser foot pressure regulator See above illustration This will release pressure of presser foot To increase pressure push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained For ordinary sewing the inner pin should be all the way down Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric skipped stitches or difficulty in guiding the fabric When sewing multiple thickness
7. or heavy fabric reduce the pressure Increase pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics If feed dog or presser foot marks appear on the fabric reduce the pressure EE irren PP ven EP B Sey VIS ag Sy D pud Ac eee N en x lt r N in ba Fig 2 ANE RAINEY are e a aa H Page 18 2 FEED DOG CONTROL The feed dog control is located on the right front of the machine bedplate There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself When the control is set to the left the feed dogs drop and do not move the fabric For most of your sewing the feed dog control is turned to U Feed dog up SEWING LIGHT The light and power switch shown at left provides the electric current for the motor as well as the light In order to operate the machine this switch must be on To turn on the light depress the switch If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended just turn off the switch and the machine cannot be started accidentally The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown To replace the bulb push switch to off unplug machine and swing the face cover plate open Push up on the bulb slightly and turn bulb to the left Remove bulb from socket Push in new bulb and turn to the right Section I Page 19 SEAM GUIDES
8. sew another layer of stitching across the first layer of stitching WRITING AND MONOGRAMMING SETTINGS Free hand Stitch Width Control Any setting Feed Dog Down No Presser Foot Draw initials or words to be sewn on fabric and fit fabric into embroidety hoops Writing is done with either zigzag or straight stitching Remove presser foot Set stitch width for straight or zigzag stitches as desired Slip hoop and fabric under the needle lower presser bar and take one stitch to raise bobbin thread through fabric Using a medium speed stitch along marked outline guiding fabric carefully by hands Page 14 ZIPPER APPLICATION SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial fem Model 1250 only Special Stitch Variegator Red mark on top Model 1250 Red dot to the left Model 1240 Stitch Width Control Red Dot Stitch Length Control 10 to 12 Zipper Foot REGULAR ZIPPER The foot is adjustable for use on the right or left side of the needle when sewing the regular type of zipper Adjust the foot so the needle clears the side notch on the foot See Fig 1 Carefully follow directions given on the zipper package INVISIBLE ZIPPER Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot ar one groove of the foot is thing on 1 teeth of the zipper See Fig Z Follov the zipper manufacturer s instructions After zipper has been inserted finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side pos
9. 5 6 5 5 Special Finishing Stitches Blind Hemming scssscessssccnseeeesensssseonsnens 6 EL Saun SONNO rin 7 j Mending nenne 7 Appliquelng TUN 8 ButtonhollHid an Rea Ra 9 0 ButtonSewing Bar 11 Maxi Stitch Stretch e tas 11 i Feather Stretch 12 Darning Writing and Monogramming 13 Zipper Application cccccscersescseeceeeeeeceeees 14 F Section Ill Checking Performance Problems i Section N Caring For The Machine Cleaning Feed Dogs and Shuttle Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate j and in Face 2 Oiling Underside Pr 2 parts LISt 3 4 1 E Ti ge D QU h Section Page 2 Hand Hole Cover Plate Seam Guide Lines Presser Foot Needle Clamp Screw Presser Foot Screw Thread Guide Face Cover Thread Guide Top Thread Tension Control Face Cover Plate Take up Lever Upper Thread Guide Knowing Your Sewing Machine 12 19 14 15 16 17 18 Special Stitch Dial Model 1250 only Stitch Width Control Special Stitch Variegator Models 1240 1250 only Stitch Length and Reverse Stitch Control Light and Power
10. Flat j kit side away from Section I Page 21 NEEDLE THREAD AND FABRIC CHART E FA B R IC x Lightweight Batiste Dimit Chiffon Silks Synthetic J Fine Lace Organza Crepi Taffetta Voile Organdy Medium Weight Cotton Cotto Blends Percale Gingham Shantung Pique Seersu Satin Knits Vinyl Suit ng Linen Wool Crepe Leath P Denim Wool Sailcloth W uo Flannel Gabardine Velve Leather E Heavy Weight Coatings Upholstery Cotton Duc Twills Canvas cu or c Decorative Top Stitching SEDLE s gt types of fabric n Synthetic Knits and Stretch S DLE Polyester Double Knits nd Tricot Jersey Stretch 4 Spandex Cire Tricot Presser foot lever foot screw bar 208 Na Ti B do UN 6 4 ae Deine Soie EE Hor quu eer apex e duel PRESSER FEET Th various presser feet that come with your Kenmore Sewing Machine are designed to help you to do every kind of sewing easily and perfectly To change the presser foot 1 Raise the needle to its highest position by turning hand wheel towards you Raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot fever Loosen the presser foot screw You do not need to remove the screw Choose the proper foot Insert from the front Tighten the screw using the large screwdriver to m
11. ON ar EE DE Wes Mua NE size gt needle uu PES e po Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric p UU 7177 Improper threading D Rethread machine Loose upper thread tension vous Tighten upper thread tension _ e lt Pulling fabric Do not pull fabric guide it gently E ae TE o Light pressure on x presser oot Increase pressure on presser foot Stitches Loose presserfoot Reset presser foot Unevenly wound bobbin Rewind bobbin o Nicks or burs on shuttle coe g Replace shuttle or polish off burrs completely jj or r burrs at hole of f needle eee eee Nue x plate MT Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely u Do not pull fabric guide it Bondi EJ Incorrect size needle ae Choose correct size needle for thread and abro viNeedie rd Incorrect setting of needle DS p 3 Reset needle p Loose presser foot zr Ww Reset presser foot ii Upper and lower threads not dawn When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back under presser foot E before 5 back of presser foot a and hold until a few stitches re Starting Seam are formed TA ur i f sii ions i Reset thread dension s v 0 Increase pressure on presser foot ifferent sizes es or Kind s p Upper thread and Por thread should be sam
12. Seam guides are printed on either side of the needle plate to aid you in guiding your fabric THE GUIDE LINE EXTENDING ABOVE THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS THE ALL IMPORTANT 5 8 SEAM LINE PRESSER FOOT LEVER To aid you in the placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot the lever can raise foot beyond the normal up position This is also an aid in changing your presser feet Section Page 20 ACCESSORIES NEEDLES ae M E LM LE needle should conform with the size of Fig 1 the thread and both should be suitable U 7 to the fabric See next page Never use a bent needle or one with a blunt point Fig 1 shows you the exact length of your needle Be sure you never use one in your machine that is not this exact length You will find among your accessories a QNEEDLE with blue shank This special needle is to be used when sewing knits and certain difficult synthetic fabrics f you experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing use Q NEEDLE ENT OF NEEDLE PLACEM Raise needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you Loosen the needle clamp screw Hold ee te me et ee aut x x b CH Hh eh Fett dar Pn 2 ing the needle with the flat side away f from you slip the needle into the needle i bar When it is in as far as it will go enm tighten the needle clamp screw with VN screwdriver provided in the accessory
13. ake certain the foot is secure You have been given a variety of presser feet A Zigzag Stitch Foot B Satin Stitch Foot C Straight Stitch Foot D Zipper Foot ion f Page 1 Starting to Sew Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew 1 Check the needle it should be straight properly set and sharp on the point It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used Change your needle frequently Many of the new fabrics made synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers Before placing the material on the machine see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use The fabric should be double thickness Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam Run the machine at a slow even speed The more pressure you put on the s
14. e size gt and kind 2 Insert new needle Resetpresserfoot Use underlay of tissue paper z AE CORRECTION PONOVO PPR PEEP E MEO NAAN DANLANDA NAARAAN AAAA ar ett e Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Use Q NEEDLE w pM GUESS Insert new needle Reset needle a Loosen upper inead tension Increase pressure on presser foot Geri iir quis rini cm pr a t e e Mie e i aae mie mpi es ma ies Ks IAM PII ARR RR AR IRA is Starting to stitch too fast iE ae Start to stitch at a medium speed T improper threading 2 Rethread machine _ Tight upper thread tension io s Leasen upper thread tension re D rea ing Upi Incorrect size needle a 3 ll J Choose correct size needie for ahead and fabric Thread Sharp eye in needle n 3 ou Insert new needle NE or burrs on shuttle id a Replace shuttle or polish off burrs completely E Replace needle plate or polish oft burrs completely eeaeee ee M M Improper t bobbin case threading Check bobbin case threading S Tight bobbin thread tension 7 Loosen bobbin thread tension in bobbin case or shuttle A Clean bobbin case and shuttle dr eph miden ah gs oe dene toa am cM ce aN as 5 Feed doy down P E Raise feed doo E Light pressure on presser foot increase press
15. ee cornered tear position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear When mending a three cornered tear stitch from each end to th center It is well to use a piece of fabric under the tear for reinforce ment APPLIQUEING SETTINGS Same as with Satin Stitching Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering the edge You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or same color BUTTONHOLING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial e n Model 1250 only opecial Stitch Variegator Red mark on top Model 1250 Red dot to the left Model 1240 Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control Botwesn 24 and Satin Stitch Foot 1 white dot Special Stitch Model 1250 only Mark the buttonhole length at both ends and also the center line See Fig 1 Position fabric under needle The first stroke of the needle should be to the right and pierce fabric at point A Stitch forward on left side of buttonhole until desired length is obtained Stop with needle in fabric on right side of stitching Point B See Fig 2 Raise presser foot and turn material and set stitch width control to three Lower presser foot and take one stitch to the left Point B to C See Fig 3 Width ogy Fead 109 p Control a Stitch l
16. ength Page 10 4 Raise presser foot with needle in fabric and turn stitch width control to 5 Drop feed dogs and lower presser foot Bartack about three stitches See Fig 4 Complete bartacking with needle on the left side of stitching Point D See Fig 4 5 Raise presser foot and reset stitch width control to original setting Raise feed dogs and lower presser foot Sew other side of buttonhole until desired length is obtained Stop with needle in fabric on left side of stitching Point E See Fig 5 6 Raise presser foot Set stitch width control to 5 Drop feed dogs Lower presser foot and bartack about three 3 stitches Remove fabric from machine lf there is too much space between side stitching increase the stitch width Depending upon the fabric on which you are sewing or your own preference in buttonholes you may increase or decrease the width of the sides and the space in the center by varying the original width settings and step 5 up to a maximum of 2 Remember an incerase in the number will widen the sides A decrease will narrow the sides Page 11 dE Wd BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial fem Model 1250 only Special Stitch Variegator Red mark on top Model 1250 Red dot to the left Model 1240 Feed Dog Down Zigzag Stitch Foot 1 Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the
17. ewn on extended edge The zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment Fig 3 4 Press both sides of the finished hem M The right side of the garment will BP oe show only the blind stitches Fig 4 Right side finished hem Fig 4 SATIN STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial fem Model 1250 only Special Stitch Variegator Red mark on top Model 1250 Red dot to the left Model 1240 Stitch Width Control Any number 2 to 5 Stitch Length Control Between 24 and white dot Satin Stitch Foot Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches This is an attractive stitch used for appliqueing monogramming buttonhole making Whenever you are using this stitch it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly The wider the stitch you make the looser the tension should be If you are stitching on a very soft fabric it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of the fabric As with all special stitches it is best to make a sample design on your fabric before starting the design on the garment MENDING Model 1250 only SETTINGS Special Stitch Variegator Red mark on top Stitch Width control 4 to 5 Stitch Length Control Any setting except white dot Zigzag Stitch Foot To repair a straight or thr
18. huttle assembly 4 Snap the levers into position Shuttle Race Fig2 Section N Page 2 IT UNDER TOP COVER PLATE AND IN FACE COVER Remove the top cover plate and swing the face cover plate open to oil points indicated To remove top cover plate unscrew two bolts on the top cover plate and lift cover plate y Qd OILING UNDERSIDE Tilt machine head back to oil points indicated below gt as i T PARTS LIST 4 Section IV Page 4 PARTS LIST All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears Roebuck and Co or Simpsons Sears Limited store or service center WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION 1 PART NUMBER 2 PART DESCRIPTION 3 MODEL NUMBER shown on the nomenclature 4 NAME OF ITEM plate See Section 1 page 3 for location If the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling 1 135 Presser foot screw 2 214203 Needle clamp 3 231008 Thread spool pin 4 200878 Spool holder 5 9363 Zigzag stitch foot 6 6873 Straight stitch foot 7 6757 Zipper foot 8 214383 Satin stitch foot 9 6740 Pack of No 9 needles in orange pack 6741 Pack of No 11 needles in yellow pack 6742 Pack of No 14 needles in red pack 6743 Pack of No 16 needles in green pack 6744 Pack of No 18 needles in blue pack 6746 Pack of QNEEDLES in chocolate pack 10 1939
19. ing wire loop should be puled up until the thread passes beyond the beak of the hook Fig 2 After the thread has slipped into the hook allow the spring wire to return to position by releasing the thread spool Fig 3 Continue threading through the front thread guide hook thread into take up lever and down through path shown IN Fig 4 and 5 Always thread needle in direction as shown in Fig 5 Section Page 9 CONTROLS eu TOP TENSION CONTROL Emei Cire e a a aan TA Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension It consists of discs between which the thread passes The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial The higher the number the tighter the tension There are many reasons for havirig to reset your tension The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another The required tension depends upon the stiffness of the fabric thickness of the fabric numbers of layers of fabric being sewn as well as the type of stitch you are making Itis best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before starting to make a garment To adjust for the correct stitch see next page Section Page 10 ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS Upper thread too loose ADJUSTING BOBBIN TENSIONS Bobbin tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper thread tension If the stitch
20. is 10 12 stitches per inch This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics multiple ayers of fabric and thicker seams Some of these seams are Common two layer seams Curved two layer seams Top stitched three layer seams Top stitched four layer seams When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness sew slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area FASTENING A SEAM Backtacking Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot Lower needle into fabric about inch from beginning of seam Raise the Stitch Length Control to R and stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam Lower the control to again stitch forwards and complete seam When you reach the end raise the control and sew back over inch of completed seam wo p4 O o o amp 9 9 3 ms S emit A 0 w EEE e n Pee a va ZIGZAG STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Model 1250 only Special Stitch wane gator Red mark on top Model 1250 Red dot to the left Model 1240 Stitch Width Control 2 to 5 Stitch Length Control Any setting except White Dot Zigzag Stitch Foot This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams applique and monogram Simply use the settings indicated in the illustra
21. ition sewing through side notch CORDING Foot can also be used to make cording for slipcovers etc Cover a cord with a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in Fig 3 GUIDANCE For Your Selection of the Best Kind of Stitch For Your Stretch Fabrics USE Use on stretch knit fabrics Use to repair knit ready made garments where seams need give Use to seam areas of stress in children s and adult sports wear crotch seams armholes etc Sew center seam of men s neck ties Sew any seam that is on the bias and STRAIGHT STRETCH must Ove Models 1240 1250 Use for all purpose heavy duty sewing ANNAM of stretch fabrics Same usages as that of zigzag stitch on lighter weight RICK RACK STRETCH stretch fabrics Models 1240 1250 Sew appliques insert panels and lace FEATHER STRETCH on lingerie and girdles Model 1250 Sew on all types of elastics in swim MAXI STITCH STRETCH wear lingerie and sportswear Model 1250 Useful Stitches with Stretch Applications U S E VWAAAA Use for all purpose stretch sewing seam finishing edge finishing or PLAIN ZIGZAG attaching stretch laces eet E Overcast seam finishing on all types of VVV stretch fabrics Flexible blind hemming BLIND STITCH Model 1250 Section ll Page 2 Special Stitches to Use Special Nofions to Use Straight stretch or Rick Rack Nylon Tricot stretch Model 1240 1250 Sharp new needle Size 9 Feathe
22. n s shorts and slacks as well as adult sport clothes RICK RACK STRETCH STITCHING models 1240 1250 SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial fe Model 1250 only Special Stitch Variegator Black mark on top Model 1250 White circle to the left Model 1240 Stitch Width Control Any number 2 to 5 Stitch Length Control All the way down Zigzag Stitch Foot 3 Use this special stitch for all purpose heavy duty sewing of stretch fabrics Sew as you do a regular plain zigzag seam The machine will make triple lock stitches back and forth of a fixed stitch length to give the stretch to seam For further directions see GENERAL GUIDANCE FOR SEWING ON STRETCH FABRICS in the next section of the book SPECIAL FINISHING STITCHES After the basic construction of your garment is finished there are still many finishing touches to be done To aid your completion of your garment the Kenmore has been designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be done by hand BLIND HEMMING Model 1250 only SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial VV Special Stitch Variegator Red mark on top Stitch Width Control 2 to 3 Stitch Length Control about 8 to 12 Zigzag Stitch Foot 1 Finish edge of hem anyway you desire Turn up hem appropriate width Fig 1 2 Fold garment away from hem leaving 1 8 of hem edge extending Fig 2 3 Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be s
23. peed control the faster the machine will sew Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered When turning the hand wheel manually always turn it toward you GARMENT CONSTRUCTION STITCHES STRAIGHT STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial fei Model 1250 only opecial Stitch Variegator Red mark on top Model 1250 Red dot to the left Model 1240 Stitch Width Control Red Dot Stitch Length Control 8 to 12 otraight Stitch Foot Set your machine just as shown in the illustration in order to straight stitch It is important that each dial have the above setting Before setting turn hand wheel toward you so that needle is above fabric You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of sewing temporary and permanent 1 Temporary stitching Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer of fabric The various types of temporary stitching are Basting Stay stitching Guide line marking 2 Permanent stitching This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good looking The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics
24. r stretch Model 1250 or 11 Blind hem Model 1250 Synthetic thread Straight or simple zigzag Terry Cloth Straight stretch or Rick Rack Mercerized thread Regular stretch Model 1240 1250 Corduroy Feather stretch Model 1250 Size 14 needle Maxi stitch stretch Model 1250 Straight stretch or Rick Rack Mercerized thread Terry Cloth stretch Model 1240 1250 Stretch Feather stretch Model 1250 Size 14 needle Maxi stitch stretch Model 1250 Mercerized or silk thread Leather Straight or simple zigzag Size 14 needle 14 Pressure on presser foot Stretch knits for Straight stretch or Rick Rack Synthetic thread Swimwear and stretch Model 1240 1250 Sharp new needle Size 9 Ski wear or Feather stretch Model 1250 or 11 Girdles Maxi stitch stretch Model 1250 Lace Seam tape Mending stitch Model 1250 _Pre shrunk zippers New fabrics are coming on the market all the time Remember that soft fabrics may need to be stabilized a little This is especially true when buttonholing monogramming or design sewing as the stitches are so close together A backing of tissue paper or interfacting may assist you in your sewing The paper may be torn away and the interfacing cut away after sewing Check your fabric by making samples of the designs monograms or buttonholes on a scrap of fabric before sewing on your garment hecking Performance Problems wHAT To Do PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE DD CORRECTI
25. spool through 6 Tighten clutch knob and remove bobbin winder tension discs as shown bobbin 3 Pull end of thread through hole in Two spool pins have been included with bobbin as shown this machine to aid in bobbin winding BY 4 Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft Placing a spool of thread on the with end of thread coming from the top SPOO _ pin you may wind your DO of the bobbin Push bobbin winder without unthreading the machine latch against bobbin until it clicks Holding onto end of thread start machine When bobbin is slightly filled snip off end of thread THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE Insert bobbin into bobbin case making sure thread is coming from bobbin as shown Pull thread through slot of case as shown Pull thread under tension spring 4 Turn hand wheel to raise needle to its highest position Holding latch Section Page 7 open position case into shuttle and release latch Case should lock into place when latch is released Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread Section Page 8 THREADING OF TOP THREAD Place thread on spool pin as shown with the thread coming from the back of the spool Fig 1 D Draw thread through the top thread guide s Fig 1 2 or Holding the spool with the right hand pull the thread through the tension discs The spr
26. tion for the simple zigzag Follow directions given below and in the following pages for more specific uses OVERCASTING This is one of the more frequently used zigzag stitches in garment construction You may want to overcast along the raw edge of each seam allowance or fold the raw edge toward the garment and stitch Fig 1 shows the raw edge finished Fig 2 illustrates the folded edge stitch ed Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling Model 1250 only m 24 12 8 oo ie STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCHING models 1240 1250 SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial fem Model 1250 only Special Stitch Variegator Black mark on top Model 1250 White circle to the left Model 1240 Stitc Width Control Red Dot Stitch Length Control All the way down Straight Stitch Foot Use this special stretch stitch with knitted fabrics and othre fabrics that stretch Sew as you do a regular straight stitch seam The machine will make triple lock stitches back and forth which gives the stretch to the seam See illustration This stitch enables you to press open your seam as with any straight stitched seam The seam will stretch with the fabric without breaking the thread This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams that will receive a great deal of strain when worn such as in childre
27. ure on presser foor n 52 Place both threads saci under presser foot before Thread knotted under fabric ae beginning ta stitch A X caught in shunie Disassemble na shuttie um Knocking Noise S LP Pw T RET EEE s Se d CUm ds l Page 1 Caring for the Machine CLEANING AND OILING Fig 1 Cleaning the feed dogs with a brush To insure the best possible operation of your machine it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times Using a small brush remove the lint that accumulates in the shuttle area and around the feed dogs Fig 2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly To Clean the Shuttle Area 1 This area must be kept free of dust lint and occasional tangled thread Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case 2 Push levers of shuttle race aside and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out 3 Clean the shuttle race with small brush 4 Puta drop of sewing machine oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race see arrows To Replace Shuttle Assembly 1 Position shuttle race as illustrated so that race is forming half moon on the left side of the machine 2 Hold shuttle by center pin and po sition shuttle so as to form a half moon on the right side Pointed hook will be on the bottom 3 Place shuttle race cover into place over s
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